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I just may have to pull off my 3rd Gen Python targets and try them on my Python. They're on a birth year Official Police--6" nickeled .38.
As much as I hate the looks of Pachmayrs I have to admit they feel and shoot the best for me. I just can't bring myself to do it...
Shot some 50+ year old .22 ammo out of a 40+ year old S&W -17. This ammo was given to me years ago and it still shoots fine.
I asked my co-worker about this and he swears by Anna Millers.
I don't eat these much because runny eggs causes me to have runny.....
What's stamped above the triggerguard? Which PD did it come from?
Agreed, because majority of HI voted for Biden. I was expecting Trump to get at least 40% this year compared to 30% in 2016.
you mean like the native hawaiians?
I saw that series. Let me know how you like it.
I've been watching stuff on Ancient Egypt. The history of ancient Egypt has always interested me.
What did the vids say? If they attack slam the gas?
Heard from a RSO that there were 4 Kabooms at the range this weekend, from reloaded rounds. Maybe from new reloaders dealing with the ammo shortage.
My experience with primers being set too deep is extremely rare. It is is usually caused by using a pocket reamer that is not the type that keeps one from going too deep and being used too much. I have one of these and it is over 40 years old. Most pocket reamers are set so you cannot go too deep. I assume the primers used are of the correct size. If it turns out the primers are set too deep then I would discard the brass. There are also very hard primers such that a pistol may have difficulty striking it hard enough to set it off. For instance, someone may have used a small rifle primer that is designed for use in an AR type rifle that has a floating firing pin. Also, some European and Russian primers are known to be more difficult to set off. These primers use a much harder cup and some pistols may have a hard time properly striking them. One more thing I have noticed and that is Winchester primers have been less reliable than other brands. Winchester usually uses brass cups instead of the silver colored cups. I bought a case of them once and probably 5 or 6 out of every 1,000 never ignited even when hit well.
There is one other thing to consider and is something I have found to happen more often in revolvers, and that is a weak hammer spring or the hammer spring tension is set too soft. This happens sometimes when a revolver has had a trigger job and the trigger is set too light. It could be a light spring was put in or too light of a setting. With SA/DA revolvers, the hammer does not come back as far when shot in DA mode. If you cock the hammer and use it in SA mode it brings the hammer back farther allowing more energy to hit the primer than in DA mode. If the hammer spring is too weak, or the hammer spring tension is set too soft you will see light hammer strikes more often in DA mode as in SA mode. And that can happen in SA mode as well but is less likely. The S&W revolvers have a hammer spring tension screw that can and does back out during shooting and can cause light hammer strikes. It will be more noticeable in DA mode first and then you might start seeing it in SA mode. I have had it happen to almost every one of my S&W revolvers. It is an easy fix. Remove the grips and screw the tension set screw back in.
Overall I would say that primers being set too low is something to check but it is more likely one of the other things I mentioned. I would look at those things first such as harder primers and/or weaker hammer springs. It could also be a combination of these things as well.
One thing I learned to do during reloading is to look into every single case before setting the bullet. Make sure you have powder in there and that the powder is at the same level as all the other cases. This helps prevent squib loads.
I hope this helps!