I read something about “servicing” o/u shotguns.  Does anyone locally do that, what does it entail/include and how much?

I don’t do any “proactive” servicing of any of my other toys besides cleaning/oiling and changing o rings/buffers on gas piston semi shotguns.   Usually only fix/replace stuff if it doesn’t work

I read something about “servicing” o/u shotguns.  Does anyone locally do that, what does it entail/include and how much?

I don’t do any “proactive” servicing of any of my other toys besides cleaning/oiling and changing o rings/buffers on gas piston semi shotguns.   Usually only fix/replace stuff if it doesn’t work

Whatcha got? I’ve done work on citori 525/725/Cynergy, mainly firing pins, springs, etc. what probs are you having?
Just got done putting new firing pins and springs in my Citori 725 trap. Bugger had about 10k thru the tubes mostly thru the lower barrel.

Hi G
I bought a used Franchi Alcione.  It likely was sitting for a while and the grease solidified in the action.

It has a mech single trigger

The prior owner says it will only fire the first barrel

My understanding is that mech triggers have an inertia block to prevent both barrels firing.  I’m guessing the inertia block was crudded up….preventing the 2nd shot.  I could be wrong….it could be something else.

I cleaned up the action as best as I could and will be testing it the next time I go to the range

Hi G
I bought a used Franchi Alcione.  It likely was sitting for a while and the grease solidified in the action.

It has a mech single trigger

The prior owner says it will only fire the first barrel

My understanding is that mech triggers have an inertia block to prevent both barrels firing.  I’m guessing the inertia block was crudded up….preventing the 2nd shot.  I could be wrong….it could be something else.

I cleaned up the action as best as I could and will be testing it the next time I go to the range

It's either a mechanical trigger OR an inertial trigger.

Some good info on that model --  Franchi Alcione:

One major feature is the barrel selection button on the trigger. The mechanically operated trigger
can fire either barrel independent of the other; recoil is not necessary to reset the hammer to fire
the second barrel.

http://www.gunsreview.com/shotguns/franchi/alcione.html

I’ve read that mech triggers have an inertia block to prevent “doubling”

https://www.trapshooters.com/threads/inertia-blocks-in-mechanical-triggers.806569/

Edited to add
I checked numrich and I couldn’t find a part called an inertia block

I’ve read that mech triggers have an inertia block to prevent “doubling”

https://www.trapshooters.com/threads/inertia-blocks-in-mechanical-triggers.806569/

Edited to add
I checked numrich and I couldn’t find a part called an inertia block

I'm not anywhere near an expert, but according to the responses in your linked thread, the Browning 725 trigger being used as an example is not a "true mechanical" trigger.  "It clicks without recoil but does indeed require recoil force to reset the lifter to the second sear."

For your shotgun, the information I linked describes it as a selectable mechanical trigger.  You can set either barrel to fire first, and then the other will fire with the second trigger pull.  If the first selected barrel fails to fire, you can then select and fire the other one.

I can't find any schematics of the trigger parts for that model.  It's discontinued, so who knows if that's online. 

I'd say try switching the barrel selector a few times to see if the reportedly non-firing barrel will fire as the first one selected.  If the selector makes no difference, it could be a problem with that sear, a spring, or even that firing pin.  Tough to analyze if the only info you have is second hand. 

If you have some 12g Snap cap rounds (I assume that's the right caliber), you could put tape over the primer area of a couple Snap cap shells, and see if you are getting a primer strike from each firing pin.  Might be easier than waiting to see if it goes "BANG!" at the range.   

Thanks Flap

I don’t have any snap caps but I might have some spent hulls.  I’ll try what you mentioned.  I’ll also try slapping the stock.

I’ve never tried doubles at trap yet so I’ve never got to actually witness a malfunction.   Hopefully just a cleaning is all it needs.  It was pretty crudded up.   

I’ll get some brake cleaner today…..to flush out the tighter areas I couldn’t reach with a q tip and a paper clip

Edited to add
After tinkering it “seems” like there is nothing mech related to the hammer falling or the pulling of the trigger to reset the trigger for the second shot.  I can easily “reset” the trigger forward by pressing my trigger finger upward and sliding it forward on the trigger (the trigger looks like a backwards J and then rotated 90 degrees clockwise)

Moving the trigger forward let’s what I believe is a trigger connector rod to fall into place to reset the trigger

I think that recoil / inertia would “reset” the trigger (ie the gun moves back while the trigger stays at “rest” allowing the connector rod to move into place)…..as long as I’m not squeezing the trigger really tightly

Thanks Flap

I don’t have any snap caps but I might have some spent hulls.  I’ll try what you mentioned.  I’ll also try slapping the stock.

I’ve never tried doubles at trap yet so I’ve never got to actually witness a malfunction.   Hopefully just a cleaning is all it needs.  It was pretty crudded up.   

I’ll get some brake cleaner today…..to flush out the tighter areas I couldn’t reach with a q tip and a paper clip

Just be careful what cleaning solutions you use.  Something as harmless sounding as vinegar will completely remove most blued finishes. 

Heat can often help remove solidified materials.  Ask anyone who's had to remove cosmoline from a WWII Mosin-Nagant!  Maybe try a heat gun, hair drier, or even really hot water.  If you see the crud start to liquify, then you're on the right track.

The key is moderation.  Start with trials of various solvents or heat in small areas.  If you get nothing good, try another.  Don't get extreme.  Most people who mess up their guns do it while cleaning.  In your case, you have an extra-difficult cleaning job to do.  Try to avoid doing the entire fire control assembly until you find the least destructive method that works.  Just a friendly tip.  I just know you can cause yourself more problems than you might have if you'd taken it a bit slower.

Let us know if you find anything with the empty hull firing pin test.

I tested it with empty hulls.  I think the gun requires recoil for the trigger connector rod to reset the trigger. ( I can also press the trigger forward to let the connector rod fall into place)

So even though it is supposed to have a mech trigger it seems to be behave like a inertia trigger

I’ll try doubles at trap next month and see what happens

I’m bringing it to my friend to look at it.  He is pretty good at tinkering with guns.   He had to trouble shoot his stoeger o/u and a good trap shooter.  He is relatively new to trap but managed to place 2nd behind Lance at the last trap event.

I tested it with empty hulls.  I think the gun requires recoil for the trigger connector rod to reset the trigger. ( I can also press the trigger forward to let the connector rod fall into place)

So even though it is supposed to have a mech trigger it seems to be behave like a inertia trigger

I’ll try doubles at trap next month and see what happens

I’m bringing it to my friend to look at it.  He is pretty good at tinkering with guns.   He had to trouble shoot his stoeger o/u and a good trap shooter.  He is relatively new to trap but managed to place 2nd behind Lance at the last trap event.

You know you can test the inertia block?  It was in the video I linked.  If you strike the butt stock with your hand, it should create enough force to simulate the recoil needed to activate the inertia block. 

Citori 725’s aren’t a true mechanical trigger and do have an inertia block. Is the action on the franchi blued, stainless or plated? Reason I ask is if stainless you can soak the entire action in high grade kerosine for a few days. That will remove any gunk, carbon, etc. after the bath hit it with LP air to low the kerosene and gunk away. If the action is the same or similar to the 725 you can easily remove the firing pins just make sure the action is cocked. They are probably held in by pins that you drift out. The lower pin points down at a 45 degree angle and should have a spring. The upper will not have any springs. These firing pins corrode and pit over time and can affect firing. New ones are cheap both for about $20. When the pins are out you’ll need to clean the channels with Hoppes and a Q tip till thy come out clean. Lube is not required but I use CLP very lightly. If you want I have a 12ga snap cap and some special adhesive paper dots that go on the end of the snap cap. When you fire it you should see a deep divot that actually breaks thru the tape. If it does, it’s good. You’re welcome to borrow it.
I give my citori trap that bath every 5k rounds and replace pins at 10k. If you want we you can come on over and I’ll take a look.
Gil

I'm not anywhere near an expert, but according to the responses in your linked thread, the Browning 725 trigger being used as an example is not a "true mechanical" trigger.  "It clicks without recoil but does indeed require recoil force to reset the lifter to the second sear."

For your shotgun, the information I linked describes it as a selectable mechanical trigger.  You can set either barrel to fire first, and then the other will fire with the second trigger pull.  If the first selected barrel fails to fire, you can then select and fire the other one.

I can't find any schematics of the trigger parts for that model.  It's discontinued, so who knows if that's online. 

I'd say try switching the barrel selector a few times to see if the reportedly non-firing barrel will fire as the first one selected.  If the selector makes no difference, it could be a problem with that sear, a spring, or even that firing pin.  Tough to analyze if the only info you have is second hand. 

If you have some 12g Snap cap rounds (I assume that's the right caliber), you could put tape over the primer area of a couple Snap cap shells, and see if you are getting a primer strike from each firing pin.  Might be easier than waiting to see if it goes "BANG!" at the range.   

Yup the citori is a hybrid action. Part mechanical part inertia. The only true mechanical trigger that I know of is the Cynergy…..

Hi G
Thanks for the offer!!!  I’ll try doubles and let you know in case you want to join us.  I think the trigger will reset for the second shot.  To be safe, I’ll avoid grease and just use oil before I reassemble it.  If it works with no issue, I’ll use light grease on the action

Hi G
Thanks for the offer!!!  I’ll try doubles and let you know in case you want to join us.  I think the trigger will reset for the second shot.  To be safe, I’ll avoid grease and just use oil before I reassemble it.  If it works with no issue, I’ll use light grease on the action

Sounds good but I recommend not using grease except on the sears. Lithium with PTFE is best otherwise CLP…..
Lemme know when ya go….
Gil

Hi G
Thanks for the offer!!!  I’ll try doubles and let you know in case you want to join us.  I think the trigger will reset for the second shot.  To be safe, I’ll avoid grease and just use oil before I reassemble it.  If it works with no issue, I’ll use light grease on the action

BTW I guess me no read everything in your last. Lithium grease is great on all bearing surfaces on the receiver and the trunions where the barrels meet the receiver. Ejectors/extractors like the CLP…