Most I shot in a day was about 270ish for 1 day.

What issues have you seen with optics for these courses?

I've seen issues with a variety of optics.  Including optics from mfrs with reputation for high quality and robust products.  My point was more to get your context, which I had a$$umed and that you're "gtg".

To answer your question, I've seen:
1) Trijicon 1-4 that was fine at 1x, but way off at 200 yards at 4x.  Was during a class, so the owner didn't have much time to iron it out.
2) Aimpoint T-1.  Elevation dial didn't work.  I ended up loaning the T-1 on a second rifle I had with me.
3) Aimpoint M2. Don't recall what the issue was, but I ended up loaning the T-1 noted above (second day of the class).
4) EoTech.  Forget which model, but the lens was loose in the housing.  Rendered the optic useless.
5) Holosuns.  Have seen a number unable to hold zero, but not sure if it was the optic or the mount.  I've seen many Holosun mounts work their way loose, but no idea if the owner used loctite or proper torque. 

To answer your question, I've seen:
1) Trijicon 1-4 that was fine at 1x, but way off at 200 yards at 4x.  Was during a class, so the owner didn't have much time to iron it out.
2) Aimpoint T-1.  Elevation dial didn't work.  I ended up loaning the T-1 on a second rifle I had with me.
3) Aimpoint M2. Don't recall what the issue was, but I ended up loaning the T-1 noted above (second day of the class).
4) EoTech.  Forget which model, but the lens was loose in the housing.  Rendered the optic useless.
5) Holosuns.  Have seen a number unable to hold zero, but not sure if it was the optic or the mount.  I've seen many Holosun mounts work their way loose, but no idea if the owner used loctite or proper torque.

1) Was this user error including bad amounting or something wrong with the LPVO

2) Why did he have to touch the elevation dial?  Was he not zero'd?  Granted I've never had to shoot past 100yrds, but I would not touch my dials on a RDS, especially since IDK where they go back to. I theoretically know where to hold at 200-400 yards.  For my 22, even that IDK where to get the 18X scope back to, so I just use guestimation holds.

4) Shit happens. I have a friend whos EOTech, IDK what model the front screen is becoming delaminated or something. He's had it only for a few years.  It's that EOTech model that we talked about that was on sale at 1 time on Brownells.  So IDK if this is common with EOTech's or just bad luck.  I was thinking he had a China EOTech, but he also has NODs which he spent like $15K on , so I'm gonna give him the benefit of the doubt he has a legit EOTech.  I've seen a guy with a China ACOG. The thing was blurry. I didn't realize it until I saw down a real ACOG which was crystal clear.  I told him about it and he did buy it on ebay for cheaper than the MSRP.  So he thinks he has a China ACOG too.

5) Now I think back that I never had a torx set until last month (for the pistol RDS).  For the ROMEO5's I just crank it on tight and recently put blue loctite on them a few months ago when my optic came loose after 5 years of usage with no loctite (same hand tight cranking was used).  I guess I want to now redo my mounting since I have a Torx set now.  But guess no need really until it comes loose again. So I'm "G2G' for now.  Mrs. CMO's one never came loose with no loctite. But after mine did, I loctited hers too (hand cranked).

1) Was this user error including bad amounting or something wrong with the LPVO

2) Why did he have to touch the elevation dial?  Was he not zero'd?  Granted I've never had to shoot past 100yrds, but I would not touch my dials on a RDS, especially since IDK where they go back to. I theoretically know where to hold at 200-400 yards.  For my 22, even that IDK where to get the 18X scope back to, so I just use guestimation holds.

4) Shit happens. I have a friend whos EOTech, IDK what model the front screen is becoming delaminated or something. He's had it only for a few years.  It's that EOTech model that we talked about that was on sale at 1 time on Brownells.  So IDK if this is common with EOTech's or just bad luck.  I was thinking he had a China EOTech, but he also has NODs which he spent like $15K on , so I'm gonna give him the benefit of the doubt he has a legit EOTech.  I've seen a guy with a China ACOG. The thing was blurry. I didn't realize it until I saw down a real ACOG which was crystal clear.  I told him about it and he did buy it on ebay for cheaper than the MSRP.  So he thinks he has a China ACOG too.

5) Now I think back that I never had a torx set until last month (for the pistol RDS).  For the ROMEO5's I just crank it on tight and recently put blue loctite on them a few months ago when my optic came loose after 5 years of usage with no loctite (same hand tight cranking was used).  I guess I want to now redo my mounting since I have a Torx set now.  But guess no need really until it comes loose again. So I'm "G2G' for now.  Mrs. CMO's one never came loose with no loctite. But after mine did, I loctited hers too (hand cranked).

1) I think it was something wrong with the optic.  I forget.  I am still friends with the guy.  IIRC, he got a replacement.  Don't remember what the cause was.

2) I vaguely remember, but I think it was changing from 100 yard zero to 50 yard zero after the morning classroom session. 

4) Yes, they do.  I thought it was a knockoff, but wasn't mine.

5) You "cranked it down" without the proper bit?  Sometimes a hex can fit "good enough" to move, but will click when tightening, even hand tight. 

1) I think it was something wrong with the optic.  I forget.  I am still friends with the guy.  IIRC, he got a replacement.  Don't remember what the cause was.

2) I vaguely remember, but I think it was changing from 100 yard zero to 50 yard zero after the morning classroom session. 

4) Yes, they do.  I thought it was a knockoff, but wasn't mine.

5) You "cranked it down" without the proper bit?  Sometimes a hex can fit "good enough" to move, but will click when tightening, even hand tight.

2) I wonder if the dials were moving on their own, so no clickty click.  I had a friends 22LR scope that's like 24X lose zero everytime he put it back in the bag. Something was wrong with the dials when the rifle moves (nothing was touching the dials).  IIRC it was a Nightforce or something.

5) I used the provided bit to crank it down. Just unknown torx amount.  Manuel says 15-20lbs.  I'll leave as is until it moves again.

2) I wonder if the dials were moving on their own, so no clickty click.  I had a friends 22LR scope that's like 24X lose zero everytime he put it back in the bag. Something was wrong with the dials when the rifle moves (nothing was touching the dials).  IIRC it was a Nightforce or something.

5) I used the provided bit to crank it down. Just unknown torx amount.  Manuel says 15-20lbs.  I'll leave as is until it moves again.

2) For the T-1, I don't think so. But I've seen it happening on an RDS.  Free spinning dial.  For things moving, I've seen reticles come loose.  When I was having issues with my ZCO, I thought maybe that was happening.  Since the first shot was almost right on and then it "walked".  Turns out wasn't an issue, but not something easy to diagnose.  Or at least I don't know how to.

5) Who is Manuel?  He work at a LGS? 

[sarcasm\]

Aimpoint PRO is pretty basic but my issue with them is the battery life and accessibility to batteries. With my sample of one, to have the red dot at a reasonable brightness it drains the battery faster than the 1-2 year battery life people claim. The battery is also rather special, so you have to order them online.

Comp M4 is great and I prefer it over the PRO simply because of the battery, but get the M4S because the battery housing will be less obtrusive to the sight picture. Also you’d be in for a good deal if you get a used one. Brand new is pretty expensive. I have had it for a few years and only changed out the battery maybe once.

Holosun 503 is good for what it is. Durable Chinese red dot and has nice features like the shake awake. Basically it’s a bootleg T2 but with a slight blue tint.

Holosun AEMS. May generate some mixed feelings because the glass is a bit distorted closer to the edges, which is pretty much like a fisheye effect. I like it though. Very light, very little optic body to get in the way, shake awake, and the built in lens covers are great. Wished there was a kill flash for it though.

Eotech xps2. Was pretty neat while I had it. Was not a fan of the feature where the lens coating starts to spiderweb from (apparently) moisture damage despite spending most of its time being stored away. Still probably the best 1x sighting unit to use with a magnifier though because the reticle is very crips while the other dots I mentioned have a football shape.