Fire once and toss 'em. Not worth it. Loose primer pockets and cracked necks. Its a shame that even foreign brass such as Privi, Magtech and others are a lot better than Federal.

Yup

primers

This is the only real precision shooting position.

I have used both magnum and non-magnum primers in 223 and 6br loads. the thicker cup in magnum primers can be helpful for certain loads.  Doesn't have much of an affect on velocity.
I don't have experience with pistol loads.
German Salazar did some research on the difference of primers. Pictures are linked here. https://www.6mmbr.com/primerpix.html
It seams like there is more variation between brands than magnum/non-magnum.

How do you measure where your barrel's lands are?  Any particular tool, or the method where you purposely seat a bullet a little long in an empty prepped case to find the jam point? 

I have the Hornady COAL tool set as mentioned above, and a buddy loaned me his RCBS precision micrometer.  My buddy measured his barrel yesterday and the required length was more than he was comfortable with, even with the setback for the jump.  Apparently his factory action and barrel has a generous amount of space.

I have read and watched videos where some benchrest shooters purposely seat their bullets a touch long and that chambering the round does the "final seating".  Now realizing how fine those dimensions are, that seems pretty  to me.

I have used two methods. One is to use a fireformed and resized case (I like to use a larger bushing so as to lower the neck tension), seat a bullet long, chamber it and extract it, hoping the bullet is still in the casing and isn't stuck in the lands. The easier way is the hornady gauge with the threaded case.

I take all my measurements with calipers with the hornady or sinclair coal gauge. The kine that measures from the ogive.

The biggest problem with  seating long is, you better not change your mind, because once you chamber a round that bullet will likely need to be tapped out of the barrel with a cleaning rod if for some reason you don't shoot it.

i own no reloading components nor dies and presses...

Not even the pointy parts...? I forget what they're called...

Do you anneal your rifle brass?  Why? 
I did anneal my 6mmbr brass every 5 to 7 firings. Propane torch and pan of water method. My purpose was to extend the life of my Lapua brass. Annealing reduces the likely hood of split necks and other fatigue related failures. Loose primer pockets would signal end of life of my 6br brass. I always full length resize and when I am trying to produce accurate ammo, I use bushing dies with no expander.
I don't bother annealing 223, 300BLK, 308, 30 carbine or 30-06. Maybe if I was buying Lapua bra$$, I would, but not after every firing.

Do you do the annealing every reload?  Have you noticed a difference in performance?
No, you don't need to anneal after every firing. Annealing can improve your brass resizing consistency. In my case, I was using really good brass with tight chamber and minimum resizing, so I didn't see degradation in the first five firings.

Annealing is one of those things that if you have to do, do it. Otherwise it is either tedious and possibly painful (burnt fingers) or expensive and probably tedious to set up. If your not splitting necks or shooting benchrest, your time and money is better spent on something else. If you really want to see for yourself, get a torch and do it the cheap way.

All this talk has inspired me to load up some 30-06. Maybe I'll get out to the range this weekend and empty some clips. Ping!

Wee know who got what now.
Hopefully soon we can get some good quality marlins. 

Funny how they all look like they were engraved by the same person.