2aHawaii
General Topics => General Discussion => Topic started by: bass monkey on July 01, 2015, 05:22:03 PM
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Hi guys running into a bit of car trouble and looking for mechanics or mechanic shops you guys recommend.
I stopped at the store on my way home. after that as I'm driving home my car sounds like it's running funny put put put put sound, has a low idle and hesitates coming out of first gear and second. driving uphill it doesn't have power and at a certain rpm i catch vibrations in the steering wheel. anyone got ideas or shops to go to. ideally i don't want the truck down for to long if possible.
it's a 93 ford ranger 2wd 5speed 4.0 v6 odometer says 23751.5,
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Oh also check engine lights not on
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Good luck but jus fyi those rangers are notorious for having Mass Airflow Sensors needing attention. Could be causing your problems
I would try that first. Its a low cost DIY fix
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I would just go to a jiffy lube first and have them fill/replace all your fluids. Sometimes the problem is that minimal, my most recent check engine light went off after a basic fluid replacement. Start small and work up to bigger fixes if it doesn't work lol.
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Try running a full tank of higher octane gas and a container of fuel injection cleaner.
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Lots of places do a free diagnostic. You can also find online a diagnostic port reader for most vehicles for relatively cheap (with a '95 truck, you might use this more than once!).
http://www.troublecodes.net/ford/
This video might be a good way to start without buying anything ....
https://youtu.be/p04NPv_gXsI
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Lots of places do a free diagnostic. You can also find online a diagnostic port reader for most vehicles for relatively cheap (with a '95 truck, you might use this more than once!).
http://www.troublecodes.net/ford/
This video might be a good way to start without buying anything ....
https://youtu.be/p04NPv_gXsI
Thanks for the link. Right now check engine light is off, wish it was on though so easier to diagnose.
Was going over the truck with my grandpa and he said sounds like its mis-firing. Pulled plugs with truck running and one plug wasn't operating correctly, idle didn't drop when unplugged. Changed plugs and wires but still same symptom, gonna try and replace the coil next and see.
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I got a code reader, are you on island? oops you said no check engine light.
off hand might be some stupid sensor, crank position, cam position, air / throttle position, or a vacuum line leak? even taking the gas cap off and putting back on might help?
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Yup, do the same check as in the vid, note codes and look them up. Don't forget to post up the codes here as well.
I highly doubt it is the coil as the coil provides spark to all cylinders. I would suggest checking the cap and rotor, depending on condition and/or age, replace it. If the problem persists to the same cylinder, I suggest doing a compression test on all cylinders and possibly a cylinder leak down test as well.
My best guess for that dead cylinder would be either a dead injector, burnt valve or burnt distributor cap.
As far as shops that do this type work, any of the big name tire shops are capable of checking this. I'm just not sure how much each shop charges just to diagnose such problem/s.
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Have you checked the fuel pump and filter? If it's clogged or on its last leg, you could be getting a less than constant flow.
I had a minivan that kept cutting off, running rough, and sometimes not starting. The van would slow then lurch then slow. We really suspected the transmission or a controller chip.
It was so sporadic we had a tough time finding the cause until the pump finally just stopped working. After the replacement, no problems for five years until THAT pump started dying on us!
Since we were familiar with the symptoms, we replaced the pump again and it ran fine until we sold it -- 11 years old with 130K miles.
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Yup, do the same check as in the vid, note codes and look them up. Don't forget to post up the codes here as well.
I highly doubt it is the coil as the coil provides spark to all cylinders. I would suggest checking the cap and rotor, depending on condition and/or age, replace it. If the problem persists to the same cylinder, I suggest doing a compression test on all cylinders and possibly a cylinder leak down test as well.
My best guess for that dead cylinder would be either a dead injector, burnt valve or burnt distributor cap.
As far as shops that do this type work, any of the big name tire shops are capable of checking this. I'm just not sure how much each shop charges just to diagnose such problem/s.
This year truck doesn't have cap and rotor, it only has an ignition coil all plugs go into.
Also checked the truck again. Cold start it runs fine no problems whatsoever. Once it warms up then has low idle and same symptoms.
Rechecked the plugs and all are firing much better then the first time. All the plugs were hash when I changed them.
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Those engines are notorious for bad ignition coils if the problem comes up after driving a few minutes its probably bad coils. I buy them on ebay new and cheap for a set.
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This year truck doesn't have cap and rotor, it only has an ignition coil all plugs go into.
Also checked the truck again. Cold start it runs fine no problems whatsoever. Once it warms up then has low idle and same symptoms.
Rechecked the plugs and all are firing much better then the first time. All the plugs were hash when I changed them.
Didn't remember the 4.0 came out with a coil pack that far back.
But yeah, coil packs are a common problem.
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swapped coil and still having problems. sucks cause it's a holiday weekend, but will take it to a shop that did previous repairs for me on Monday to get a diagnosis.
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Update:
Checked the injectors. one needed to be changed, #5. Truck idles fine and runs great for the most part, but still doesn't have power. Anyone know what might be causing this?
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Does the truck have a tachometer(RPM gauge)? What is the engine idling at? Does the engine rev to redline easily? When was the last time the air and fuel filter have been changed? I wonder if the fuel pump is going bad. How does the exhaust smell? Rotten eggs? I'm not great at diagnosing problems without touching it.
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Have you checked the fuel pump and filter? If it's clogged or on its last leg, you could be getting a less than constant flow.
I had a minivan that kept cutting off, running rough, and sometimes not starting. The van would slow then lurch then slow. We really suspected the transmission or a controller chip.
It was so sporadic we had a tough time finding the cause until the pump finally just stopped working. After the replacement, no problems for five years until THAT pump started dying on us!
Since we were familiar with the symptoms, we replaced the pump again and it ran fine until we sold it -- 11 years old with 130K miles.
this. sounds like a good thing to check. although keep in mind, depending on how they did the fuel pump, it is NOT a one man job to check it. if you have to drop the fuel tank, you're probably going to need someone to help you.
I dont know how the Rangers situate theirs, but on the car i had to change the fuel pump on, you had to drop the gas tank. so if you do that, make sure its as empty as possible, not so much for the weiht (a few gallons of gas arent that heavy), but for the balance.
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It really sounds like fuel starvation to me. Like others said, it is easy to check the fuel filter. It can be removed/bypassed as an easy check. Probably one of the most common items not replaced regularly and causes the exact symptoms you are describing. And if not the filter then the fuel pump is probably suspect. Let us know what you find.
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Does the truckon have a tachometer(RPM gauge)? What is the engine idling at? Does the engine rev to redline easily? When was the last time the air and fuel filter have been changed? I wonder if the fuel pump is going bad. How does the exhaust smell? Rotten eggs? I'm not great at diagnosing problems without touching it.
sorry i should have said in the beginning it runs ok, just has lost of power going uphill. going uphill i can floor it and rpm won't pass 2k and won't increase speed.
idle is at 800. never redlined it.
fuel filter hasn't been changed in the 4/5 years i had it.
also, my clutch is going out, 5speed. could that be causing these problems.
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sorry i should have said in the beginning it runs ok, just has lost of power going uphill. going uphill i can floor it and rpm won't pass 2k and won't increase speed.
idle is at 800. never redlined it.
fuel filter hasn't been changed in the 4/5 years i had it.
also, my clutch is going out, 5speed. could that be causing these problems.
I would think if the clutch is going out it would chatter a lot and probably slip. If it slips the RPM's would rise without you going any faster. It doesn't sound like your problem to me. Obviously, I have not seen/heard/driven your truck so it is just a guess. Still sounds like fuel starvation to me.
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Try and free rev that engine to redline. If the engine goes to redline easily, then I would guess the fuel pressure would be ok. If not, then another indication the fuel pump starting to go bad. But without an actual fuel pressure gauge, it would be sort of difficult to weed it out or not. Also, if you could pull the vacuum line on the fuel pressure regulator and listen to the engine idle go up a bit and see it also on the tach. With a fuel pressure gauge it should jump up roughly 10 psi.
As far as the clutch goes, it could be a problem especially if the clutch is slipping. That would cause the similar feeling to no power.
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If you know the clutch is slipping, take care of that and see if it helps.
It might only need adjustment. If it's worn or damaged, then of course replace it.
The clutch slipping can cause damage to the transmission by requiring you to shift when the engine RPMs and gear box are not in sync as intended. It can also cause extra strain on the engine from running the RPMs up to compensate.
Let's say you should be shifting to 2nd at 15 mph. If you can't get the speed up to 15 without revving to extra RPMs, the transmission and engine are not in sync. It may actually feel like you are down shifting, because the transmission will become a drag on the engine. Basically the engine is running faster than it should be for the gear you're in.
Just a thought! :shaka:
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IIRC, that year make and model, it has a hydraulic clutch master cylinder and a non-adjustable/self adjusting internal hydraulic slave cylinder.
Another thing that would give the same symptoms as lack of power would be, the brakes are dragging. Can you roll the vehicle easily with the transmission in neutral after a long drive? The reason I ask is, when the vehicle is driven the brakes(rotors and drums) heat up and they expand a bit, creating a tighter tolerance to the brake pads and shoes. Any burnt brakes odor after a long drive? If one can't push the vehicle after a long drive while vehicle is in neutral, jack up each corner and spin the tire. If one of the fronts are locked up it could be either a hose or frozen caliper. If one of the back is frozen, either severe rust/sand/dirt build up in drum or a frozen wheel cylinder.
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finally figured it out and got the truck fixed and running great.
it needed a new tune up
changed coil pack.
one injector was bad. -hesitate off the line problem
changed thermostat
changed fuel filter
a shop tested and back pressure was extremely high
cat converter was plugged, rattling, screens were broken inside.
changed the whole exhaust system.
truck is running great now.
still gotta do clutch at some point soon.