2aHawaii
General Topics => General Discussion => Topic started by: Heavies on December 04, 2015, 12:12:03 AM
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Does anyone know exactly what size pipes are used in the ground at the rifle side?
Thank you
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2" Schedule 40
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2" Schedule 40
If you use 2"x2" for the verticals, the corners of the 2"x2" need to be rounded/removed in order to insert into the pipes. :thumbsup:
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Sure about 2"? I didn't round the corners of my target stand, it fits in there.
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Sure about 2". I didn't round the corners of my target stand, it fits in there.
Really? The first target frame I built used 2"x2" verticals and I could not get them in the holes for the life of me. I had to take out my knife and round off the corners slightly to get them to fit. Maybe the wood was cut weird/different?
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Really? The first target frame I built used 2"x2" verticals and I could not get them in the holes for the life of me. I had to take out my knife and round off the corners slightly to get them to fit. Maybe the wood was cut weird/different?
dunno. 2x2" wood is actually 1.5" x 1.5" dunno.. I'll just have to measure them when I go.. if I can go. Lol
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dunno. 2x2" wood is actually 1.5" x 1.5" dunno.. I'll just have to measure them when I go.. if I can go. Lol
The actual dimension across the diagonal section of a 2"x2" is 2.12" So slightly larger than the 2" hole you are trying to put it in to.
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It depends on the grade of the wood. Cheaper pieces seem to run larger and don't fit in the pipes without some sanding/rounding of the corners.
The better quality pieces of wood look smooth and sanded. The sanding takes the dimensions down to where they will probably fit in the pipes without much sanding/rounding off. You might need to apply some pressure, but most of the time, these pieces will fit the pipes without rounding the corners.
That's been my experience anyway.
I always round the corners to be safe.
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It depends on the grade of the wood. Cheaper pieces seem to run larger and don't fit in the pipes without some sanding/rounding of the corners.
The better quality pieces of wood look smooth and sanded. The sanding takes the dimensions down to where they will probably fit in the pipes without much sanding/rounding off. You might need to apply some pressure, but most of the time, these pieces will fit the pipes without rounding the corners.
That's been my experience anyway.
I always round the corners to be safe.
I buy the cheapest grade of wood I can find. I don't see any need in buying even the next better grade than the bottom of the barrel POS (can't find a straight piece out of 100, non treated termite food). :rofl: :rofl: :rofl:
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Square peg in a round hole. Lol
Thanks guys! :thumbsup: :shaka:
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I buy the cheapest grade of wood I can find. I don't see any need in buying even the next better grade than the bottom of the barrel POS (can't find a straight piece out of 100, non treated termite food). :rofl: :rofl: :rofl:
I went to Home Depot once for frame material, and they were out of the cheap stuff in the lengths I needed. So I made 2 stands from the better grade 2x2. That's the only reason I was able to compare. I too prefer the cheapest frame material possible since my ammo seems to be made from wood magnets.
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I went to Home Depot once for frame material, and they were out of the cheap stuff in the lengths I needed. So I made 2 stands from the better grade 2x2. That's the only reason I was able to compare. I too prefer the cheapest frame material possible since my ammo seems to be made from wood magnets.
Set your frame next to a steel gong. It gets pelted pretty good. And if you shoot with a bunch of lead heads like I do you find lead shrapnel and copper gas checks embedded in the side of the frame. :rofl: :rofl: :rofl: