2aHawaii
Tools and Uses => Reloading => Topic started by: 556fun on April 18, 2016, 05:16:20 PM
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any suggestions on a budget reloading press for .223 ammo and where to purchase one - new or used - thank you in advance for the help
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any suggestions on a budget reloading press for .223 ammo and where to purchase one - new or used - thank you in advance for the help
Are you looking for just a press? Or do you need all the other things that go along with it such as a scale, small handtools, reloading manual, etc.? Lee makes a good single stage press and a beginners kit with the same press in it. I prefer RCBS equipment over Lee in most areas and they offer similar products at a little higher price.
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I bought the RCBS Rock Chucker Press KIt awhile back from Midway. I took advantage of the RCBS rebate and got $50 off plus bought it on sale. Highly recommended! Started out reloading .223. Of course added a few items along the way but super happy with the kit.
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just starting out so i will need to get a ton of stuff, trimmer, brass tumbler, etc - i was considering a lee single stage press kit for .223 - or a budget 2nd hand progressive press. im trying to reload the most inexpensive way i can
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just starting out so i will need to get a ton of stuff, trimmer, brass tumbler, etc - i was considering a lee single stage press kit for .223 - or a budget 2nd hand progressive press. im trying to reload the most inexpensive way i can
Trimmer I bought Lee (looking into a Giraud), Tumbler went with Frankford Arsenal, Trickler Redding, Dies Lee, etc....You will soon find out that reloading is a hobby in itself. It can get costly if you let it, Many helpful people on this site. Good luck, have fun and most of all be safe.
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There's a few threads started about loading .223/5.56. IMO i would suggest buying a kit ,as opposed to ala carte, if you have nothing. Things like scales, loading blocks, funnels, powder dropper and most important a loading manual usually comes with a kit.
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;)
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The Lee challenger kits are an inexpensive way to get started. You can produce accurate ammo with the Lee press and upgrade to better accessories over time. Even if you upgrade to a better press later, the single stage will have a place on your loading bench. I reload on a Dillon but still use my Lee single stage for decapping all my brass with a universal decapping die. Then I wet tumble using stainless media.
My Lee press gets filthy but my Dillon stays really clean.
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Start with a bench mounted single stage rather than the hand press.
Personally I like the hand press but beginners need a decent single stage press to learn on.
If you pursue the hobby further, you will end up with a progressive-something at some point in time.
But you will always need a single for doing little stuff or oddball jobs.
I do have that standing invitation for a quick overview for newbies who don't already have a buddy that loads.
A number of people here on this forum got their first step at my house.
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Here is a shopping list that I posted from an old thread:
Press/dies/shell holder
Sturdy/heavy table or bench. There are both downward and upward forces
Analog or digital calipers
small tumbler+media+polish for nice shiny ammo
reusable ammo boxes are good to have
acetone based carb or brake cleaner (Johnsens non-chlorinated brake cleaner)
some sort of case lube
brass-powder-primers-heads obviously
primer pocket chamfering tool if using mil brass
Digital powder scale (these are cheap nowdays)
A mesh fishing/diving bag to separate the brass from the grit (unless your tumbler comes with a separator already)
plastic bucket to catch the grit
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Trimmer device for rifle stuff
Case mouth chamfer tool
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thank you for the feedback OF!
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Agree about single stage presses. I just bought my 4th the other day. Yeah I've been bit by the bug. :shaka:
I would add a bullet puller to the list. When I first started reloading, I used mine quite a bit due to inexperience. I don;t use it much now but still is a good tool to have on hand. I have the RCBS collet puller/ good tool.
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Yo Everyone!
Thank you for your suggestions,comments, and wisdoms - just ordered a lee 4 turret press deluxe kit from Midway - hoping to save a few bucks making my own! hope i dont screw up too much costing more to reload than buying packaged goods from the store.
Aloha
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Be careful and methodical in your loads. Stay safe and work up slowly. Have fun.
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Absolutely! Thank you!
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Ask questions if not sure. A lot of helpful guys on this forum. Better safe than sorry.
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Ask questions if not sure. A lot of helpful guys on this forum. Better safe than sorry.
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Roger that! Really not wanting to be a weekend headline!
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Yo Everyone!
Thank you for your suggestions,comments, and wisdoms - just ordered a lee 4 turret press deluxe kit from Midway - hoping to save a few bucks making my own! hope i dont screw up too much costing more to reload than buying packaged goods from the store.
Aloha
That is a good starting kit. You can use the turret like a single stage at the beginning by removing the indexing rod. Get extra indexing bushings (the small square rubber piece at the bottom of the index rod). Would also recommend getting a powder trickler and a stuck case remover kit.
I have the RCBS one which helped me twice after getting stuck in the die. There will not be a 3rd time for me after that. No can help, you will end up buying all kinds of accessories later, guarans.
You can go to WGS and ask Henry (or Joe if he's back) to demo the lee turret press for you. They should have one set up like at the HK store and they will let you reload a few too. Good luck.
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i'm almost ready to begin reloading - any suggestions on where to buy powder, bullets, and primers for .223 - and what powder to begin with using 55 gr projectiles.
thanks guys in advance for the tips and suggestions
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i'm almost ready to begin reloading - any suggestions on where to buy powder, bullets, and primers for .223 - and what powder to begin with using 55 gr projectiles.
thanks guys in advance for the tips and suggestions
If you only want to go to one place then I will suggest either X-Ring, Young Guns or WGS. If you want to save a little money I would suggest buying your powder and primers at Security Equipment (SEC) and then going to one of the above mentioned LGS and buy your bullets there. SEC does not carry a lot of bullets. They may have some. In which case you can buy them there. But just in case they don't SEC has the best prices on powder and primers usually.
I prefer H335 for 55gr bullets. But you can also use (in no particular order) CFE223, Varget, BLC-2, IMR3031, IMR4064, IMR8028 XBR, IMR4895, H4895, Winchester 748. There are many others but these I know work for .223 loads. I have used all of these powders for 55gr .223 loads with varying success. Some of the these powders work better than others. For instance the Varget will work better with heavier bullets around 64gr and heavier. Same goes for some of the others I mention here. But all will work. That is what reloading is all about for me. Experimentation to find the best combinations.
Let us know what you come up with?
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Thank you for the good info Inspector! as soon as i make the move ill share - i found a website usreloading.com for bullets which they were selling bullets for $10.38 per 100 with free shipping - ordered a couple hundred bullets - will see how that works out when i get them.
powder and primers looks like one of the shops you mentioned!
Aloha
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FYI x-ring is getting out of the reloading game they clearanced their inventory months ago, what's left is on top of the display case near the door.
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FYI x-ring is getting out of the reloading game they clearanced their inventory months ago, what's left is on top of the display case near the door.
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Thanks for the update! I gotta go out to Kapolei tomorrow maybe I'll check what they have left!
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FYI x-ring is getting out of the reloading game they clearanced their inventory months ago, what's left is on top of the display case near the door.
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Thanks I may have to take a look see. By the way, I went to Security Equipment the other day and they have a ton of powder in stock. If you're going to be out west, check out Roy's fishing supply for powder and primers
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If you only want to go to one place then I will suggest either X-Ring, Young Guns or WGS. If you want to save a little money I would suggest buying your powder and primers at Security Equipment (SEC) and then going to one of the above mentioned LGS and buy your bullets there. SEC does not carry a lot of bullets. They may have some. In which case you can buy them there. But just in case they don't SEC has the best prices on powder and primers usually.
I prefer H335 for 55gr bullets. But you can also use (in no particular order) CFE223, Varget, BLC-2, IMR3031, IMR4064, IMR8028 XBR, IMR4895, H4895, Winchester 748. There are many others but these I know work for .223 loads. I have used all of these powders for 55gr .223 loads with varying success. Some of the these powders work better than others. For instance the Varget will work better with heavier bullets around 64gr and heavier. Same goes for some of the others I mention here. But all will work. That is what reloading is all about for me. Experimentation to find the best combinations.
Let us know what you come up with?
Thank you everyone for your help - went to SEC today got me some H355 not bad $31.55, 300 CCI small rifle primers, WGS for some processed brass, and hornady bullets
now i am waiting on midway for the lee double disk kit to be shipped to me! hopefully, reloading in a week or 2 - in the meantime more reading of reloading, etc.
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Thank you everyone for your help - went to SEC today got me some H355 not bad $31.55, 300 CCI small rifle primers, WGS for some processed brass, and hornady bullets
now i am waiting on midway for the lee double disk kit to be shipped to me! hopefully, reloading in a week or 2 - in the meantime more reading of reloading, etc.
I think you will like the H335 powder as it a spherical powder which flows smoothly and measures accurately and consistently. Just be aware that as you get into heavier bullets a powder with a different burn rate (Slower) might be a better choice than H335. Also, better bullets will more than likely give you better groups/accuracy.
I use the same Lee powder measure when loading pistol cartridges. I find that it throws very consistently. Especially with spherical and flake powders.
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I think you will like the H335 powder as it a spherical powder which flows smoothly and measures accurately and consistently. Just be aware that as you get into heavier bullets a powder with a different burn rate (Slower) might be a better choice than H335. Also, better bullets will more than likely give you better groups/accuracy.
I use the same Lee powder measure when loading pistol cartridges. I find that it throws very consistently. Especially with spherical and flake powders.
started to put my press together and the primer loader is sort of a confusing and a rinky dinky set up and doesn't look so stable and reliable. Thinking of going to WGS tomorrow and plunk down another 30 or 40 to get a upgraded or hand primer press. The 4 turret kit looked liked a good deal but having to buy upgrade after upgrade parts, it feels like I bought everything ala carte! But I guess it's still cheaper than owning a boat!
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lee auto prime
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lee auto prime
I use the RCBS hand priming tool. I hear the Lee is a good one as well.
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lee auto prime
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I started with the lee auto prime decades ago. Love it.
Only bad thing is the handle tends to break after a lot of use.
But I always got free replacements.
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I prefer hand priming and I think for someone starting out it's the best way to go. You'll be able to feel the pressure better when seating.
I also use the RCBS priming tool
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FYI x-ring is getting out of the reloading game they clearanced their inventory months ago, what's left is on top of the display case near the door.
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Thanks for letting me know. I have not been there for quite a few months. Obviously. :rofl:
The problem I have is I really have not had much time to go to any LGS including X-Ring. Fortunately, I stocked up on supplies enough to last me at least a year if not two.
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Another RCBS hand priming tool user here for rifle rounds. Two safety suggestions I always follow is to angle the mounted shell on the tool away from you while pressing in the primer and wear safety glasses while priming.
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ok, got the my 4 turret press mounted, fitted the deprime/prime die and deprimed about 120 cartridges. i know im suppose to clean and tumble them but, i was originally going to load processed brass which i got from wgs. but what the heck i was interested (impatient) to see how the press worked. may wash the brass tomorrow with some water softener and dawn soap, dry them, size, deburr and chamfer. ill probably prime, charge and seat about 20 rounds friday to see how well i did saturday - wanna take it one step at a time. shoulda bought a single stage press.
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ill probably prime, charge and seat about 20 rounds friday to see how well i did saturday - wanna take it one step at a time. shoulda bought a single stage press.
Did you find the manuals and load data that you were looking for earlier? Just curious what load you were planning to start out with and what you will be firing them from.
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Did you find the manuals and load data that you were looking for earlier? Just curious what load you were planning to start out with and what you will be firing them from.
Yes, I have a modern reloading second edition manual by Richard Lee that came with the Lee kit
Been trying out the deprime die to get a feel of how to deprime and set the die - tried washing brass, case trim using the Lee trim guide, chamfer and deburr tools on about 20 Pcs of brass as practice prior to actual production.
Im awaiting on digital calipers and a digital scale from harbor freight. Won't actually load until those items come in. Also awaiting on a couple extra depriming pins I just ordered since I just busted one!
I know I'm doing things out of order but I want to understand each step separately before I actually get going!
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Yes, I have a modern reloading second edition manual by Richard Lee that came with the Lee kit
Been trying out the deprime die to get a feel of how to deprime and set the die - tried washing brass, case trim using the Lee trim guide, chamfer and deburr tools on about 20 Pcs of brass as practice prior to actual production.
Im awaiting on digital calipers and a digital scale from harbor freight. Won't actually load until those items come in. Also awaiting on a couple extra depriming pins I just ordered since I just busted one!
I know I'm doing things out of order but I want to understand each step separately before I actually get going!
No way. That is perfect. The key to successful and safe reloading is attention to detail. You are on the right track! :thumbsup:
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No way. That is perfect. The key to successful and safe reloading is attention to detail. You are on the right track! :thumbsup:
TY - H
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I don't see any mention of a choice of die set. Some are more suited to different purposes and rifles.
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I don't see any mention of a choice of die set. Some are more suited to different purposes and rifles.
Lee 4 die kit
Next time I'll try the 9mm Rcbs carbide dies
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Yes, I have a modern reloading second edition manual by Richard Lee that came with the Lee kit
Been trying out the deprime die to get a feel of how to deprime and set the die - tried washing brass, case trim using the Lee trim guide, chamfer and deburr tools on about 20 Pcs of brass as practice prior to actual production.
Im awaiting on digital calipers and a digital scale from harbor freight. Won't actually load until those items come in. Also awaiting on a couple extra depriming pins I just ordered since I just busted one!
I know I'm doing things out of order but I want to understand each step separately before I actually get going!
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The deprime die you mention is the sizer die, isn't it?
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i believe so, but i also read the case must be trimmed, deburred, and chamfer if the case length is greater than 1.750
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So if you are using the Lee 4 die .223 rem set, you probably won't be using the collet/ neck sizing die if loading for an AR. Both the full length resizing and the collet die deprimes but the collet die will only resize the neck. Of course you will need to use the bullet seating die and you may choose to use the crimp die if desired. I believe some crimp their .223s but most choose not to.
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i believe so, but i also read the case must be trimmed, deburred, and chamfer if the case length is greater than 1.750
I trim to 1.755" I believe 1.760" is max length (I don't have my manuals with me)
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I trim to 1.755" I believe 1.760" is max length (I don't have my manuals with me)
Hmmm, ok Bushido, I used the collet die to deprime - also tried using the full length die but the die wouldn't go down the cartridge without a fight even after applying lube - still in the learning stages and won't add powder or bullets until I fully understand what the heck I'm doing
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Hmmm, ok Bushido, I used the collet die to deprime - also tried using the full length die but the die wouldn't go down the cartridge without a fight even after applying lube - still in the learning stages and won't add powder or bullets until I fully understand what the heck I'm doing
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Hey let's back up a little bit.
First of all you made no mention of what kind of gun you are loading for.
I would guess it's an ar platform, but maybe not...... 223 bolt guns are somewhat common too.
Then it would be nice to know what the chamber is cut for.
It could be 223, 556, or 223 wylde.
It makes a diff on how you load.
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Hey guys ok I'm have 2 5.56/.223 guns a ATI m451 and PWS mk114
Ok got home and tried the full size die and after a couple adjustment to the top bolt that holds the depriming pin it works just fine.
Thanks OF and B
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Hey guys ok I'm have 2 5.56/.223 guns a ATI m451 and PWS mk114
Ok got home and tried the full size die and after a couple adjustment to the top bolt that holds the depriming pin it works just fine.
Thanks OF and B
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Do you know if the barrels are marked 223 or 556 or 223 wylde?
In any case, since these are semi auto, you would want to use the full length sizer die.
Usually screwed pretty much all the way in till it kisses the shell plate.
Was there specific instructions with the die set?
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Generally, the collet neck sizer would be used for brass fired from a bolt gun ....and only your bolt gun.
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After FL sizing, then you trim it.
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Do you know if the barrels are marked 223 or 556 or 223 wylde?
In any case, since these are semi auto, you would want to use the full length sizer die.
Usually screwed pretty much all the way in till it kisses the shell plate.
Was there specific instructions with the die set?
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Generally, the collet neck sizer would be used for brass fired from a bolt gun ....and only your bolt gun.
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After FL sizing, then you trim it.
The PWS is marked .223 wylde the ATI 5.56
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case gage...........not really needed but nice to have
http://www.sheridanengineering.com/index-2.htm
http://www.lewilson.com/casegage.html
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case gage...........not really needed but nice to have
http://www.sheridanengineering.com/index-2.htm
http://www.lewilson.com/casegage.html
Good recommendation!!! A must have for reloading ammo for semi autos. Especially if reloading for pistols using brass that was fired out of a Glock (or similar) gun which creates that "Glock Bulge" in the brass.
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Good recommendation!!! A must have for reloading ammo for semi autos. Especially if reloading for pistols using brass that was fired out of a Glock (or similar) gun which creates that "Glock Bulge" in the brass.
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That Sheridan cutaway gauge is cool. Pricey but cool.
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That Sheridan cutaway gauge is cool. Pricey but cool.
I would love to have those! If I were doing bench rest shooting or other long distance competition I think these Sheridan gauges are a must have.
I use the Lyman/Wilson gauges. Pake like me.
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I would love to have those! If I were doing bench rest shooting or other long distance competition I think these Sheridan gauges are a must have.
I use the Lyman/Wilson gauges. Pake like me.
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Are you really pake or just a wannabe pake?
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Are you really pake or just a wannabe pake?
I'm pake with myself. Not so much with my wife. :rofl: :rofl: :rofl:
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I'm pake with myself. Not so much with my wife. :rofl: :rofl: :rofl:
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My pake classmate has a saying...
"You don't have to be pake to be pake".
So if you think you pake then you pake.
Congratulations.
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Sheridan gauges are really nice.i got them before they offered the cut away version and are a very good tool to have.
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So if you are using the Lee 4 die .223 rem set, you probably won't be using the collet/ neck sizing die if loading for an AR. Both the full length resizing and the collet die deprimes but the collet die will only resize the neck. Of course you will need to use the bullet seating die and you may choose to use the crimp die if desired. I believe some crimp their .223s but most choose not to.
ok, just received the lee charging die kit - came with 2 dies - theres a short die says it fits lengths .860 to 1.760 and the long die 1.760 to 2.620.
do i load up the .860 to 1.760
Thanks again guys
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I don't have that measure, but I would pick the one that fits whatever calibers you use most.
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Yes a case gauge is good to have. I use a Dillon case gauge for a quick check of my AR reloads. I use a RCBS precision mic to check my die adjustments for my AR and bolt gun reloads.
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i just received in the mail the lee pro disc kit (10 days later) well after inventorying the box, i found the 4 discs they shipped to me is the same 4 discs which were included in the lee 4 turret kit, the only difference is the additional disc kit i just received came with the clips to extend the powder charge so i am able to use 2 discs at once to fill my rifle cartridge. why couldnt lee or midway include the clips and add $11.00 to the kit price and save me 10 days of waiting and additional shipping costs. i hate shipping costs
:wtf:
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556fun,
So how'd it go?
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556fun,
So how'd it go?
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Yeah, us niele
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Went real well had RO assistance with fine tuning my scope - got the center ring a couple of time!
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Thank goodness not going be in the news this afternoon!
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(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160516/5cab9a6338a7afba47632b5519eb48da.jpg)
Gotta love that H335!
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Congrats on bustin' your cherry. I'm glad everything went well. I'm assuming like most ARs nowadays yours is a 1:7 twist, if you want to try a few heavier bullets, let me know.
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does anyone have a procedure in storing their dies - i plan to be away for a couple of weeks and wont be reloading and was wondering do any of you have a ritual in taking down your press. ie. remove your dies from the turret, clean your dies with solvent or brakeleen and spray on oil or silicone to protect your dies from rust, etc. or do you just throw them back in the plastic case.
just wondering!
:shaka:
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does anyone have a procedure in storing their dies - i plan to be away for a couple of weeks and wont be reloading and was wondering do any of you have a ritual in taking down your press. ie. remove your dies from the turret, clean your dies with solvent or brakeleen and spray on oil or silicone to protect your dies from rust, etc. or do you just throw them back in the plastic case.
just wondering!
:shaka:
I throw 'em back in the box. I do clean them occasionally when they show signs of dirt or excess lube inside. I always keep additional deprime pins just in case.
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I throw 'em back in the box. I do clean them occasionally when they show signs of dirt or excess lube inside. I always keep additional deprime pins just in case.
Thanks - yeah i purchased about 3 deprime pins from midway a few weeks ago after i busted one on my first attempt to reload. LOL!
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does anyone have a procedure in storing their dies - i plan to be away for a couple of weeks and wont be reloading and was wondering do any of you have a ritual in taking down your press. ie. remove your dies from the turret, clean your dies with solvent or brakeleen and spray on oil or silicone to protect your dies from rust, etc. or do you just throw them back in the plastic case.
just wondering!
:shaka:
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Leave the dies in the turret. Dump out the powder. Squirt some oil if you are worried about rust. Cover the whole press with a garbage bag.
Buy a spare turret ($14) so you don't have to readjust the dies when you change caliber.
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does anyone have a procedure in storing their dies - i plan to be away for a couple of weeks and wont be reloading and was wondering do any of you have a ritual in taking down your press. ie. remove your dies from the turret, clean your dies with solvent or brakeleen and spray on oil or silicone to protect your dies from rust, etc. or do you just throw them back in the plastic case.
just wondering!
:shaka:
(https://i1348.photobucket.com/albums/p727/djryan13/image_zps01635681.jpeg)
tumbled dies on right - not tumbled left
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Leave the dies in the turret. Dump out the powder. Squirt some oil if you are worried about rust. Cover the whole press with a garbage bag.
Buy a spare turret ($14) so you don't have to readjust the dies when you change caliber.
I use old pillow cases to cover the presses. Use a blue pillow case for the 550B just to be color correct. :geekdanc:
I leave the Dillon stuff on a tool head but put the rifle dies back in the box since they go on a single stage press. As O.F. says, dump out the powder.
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I use old pillow cases to cover the presses. Use a blue pillow case for the 550B just to be color correct. :geekdanc:
I leave the Dillon stuff on a tool head but put the rifle dies back in the box since they go on a single stage press. As O.F. says, dump out the powder.
[/quote
Thanks great idea!
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does anyone use a barometer to measure the humidity before reloading. if so, at what point do you stop or not start reloading.
on sat, I stopped reloading immediately when a layer powder I measured stuck to the bottom of the measuring cup. I didnt realize the air all of a sudden got too humid.
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AC room , why work in the humidity and heat.
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AC room , why work in the humidity and heat.
I'm poor no can afford to AC my garage. Lol
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I'm poor no can afford to AC my garage. Lol
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No AC in my house either. It was 96 in my garage when I got home from work tonight.
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No AC in my house either. It was 96 in my garage when I got home from work tonight.
And probably 90% humidity too
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And probably 90% humidity too
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I work in a non A/C shop all day every day. When I need rounds for the weekend, a little heat and humidity ain't stopping me. :rofl:
How's the ammo hunting going?
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I work in a non A/C shop all day every day. When I need rounds for the weekend, a little heat and humidity ain't stopping me. :rofl:
How's the ammo hunting going?
Hawaii has a better selection of .22lr ammo, powder, and other reloading supplies.
What .22lr ammo There is and that I can find is rather expensive compared to Hawaii prices.
But there's a ton of pistols and rifles great selection
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Wow that's sad. Hawaii is very anti. California must be very bad. Don't buy any of them Cali compliant rifles with that ass backward mag release
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Wow that's sad. Hawaii is very anti. California must be very bad. Don't buy any of them Cali compliant rifles with that ass backward mag release
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I overheard 1 shop owner stating there's gonna be a big change in gun ownership rules come Jan 1 2017.
Then I heard another shop owner saying they're getting a bunch of AR shipments with the hexmag which are a pos.
Prices for targets, and other stuff we buy, seems cheaper but not cheap enough to stuff in my bag and drag to the airport and home.
Gotta also save room for that Trader Joe stuff too!
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I overheard 1 shop owner stating there's gonna be a big change in gun ownership rules come Jan 1 2017.
Then I heard another shop owner saying they're getting a bunch of AR shipments with the hexmag which are a pos.
Prices for targets, and other stuff we buy, seems cheaper but not cheap enough to stuff in my bag and drag to the airport and home.
Gotta also save room for that Trader Joe stuff too!
Yup Trader Joe stuff way better. I think last time I went to Cal all I bought was some 10/22 mags.
If you get a chance to go to OR or WA and check out their Sportsman Wharehouse and Cablea's you definitely have to go. I thought Bass Pro Vegas was awesome, Cabela's in WA will make you giggly it's so crazy. For real I couldn't think straight there was so much stuff to see. .
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Price not so good at Cabelas without their Visa Card.