2aHawaii
Tools and Uses => Reloading => Topic started by: rklapp on April 27, 2017, 07:10:35 AM
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For the past month, I'm not able to get the die to touch the shell holder when resizing the case. There was a 1/8 inch gap. I discovered that the
decrimper expanding pin was frozen so had to put it in my vise to open it. I cleaned off the residue and reset. Now the gap is a quarter inch. What do you think is going on? Is it time to replace?
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For the past month, I'm not able to get the die to touch the shell holder when resizing the case. There was a 1/8 inch gap. I discovered that the decrimper was frozen so had to put it in my vise to open it. I cleaned off the residue and reset. Now the gap is a quarter inch. What do you think is going on? Is it time to replace?
From what you said here the decrimper has no bearing on setting the die in your press. Lee dies have a lock ring or nut that is not locked in place like RCBS dies has. This lock ring/nut can turn and move and change the position your die is set at. Could it be this nut has rotated/moved down the die and just needs to be readjusted? Are you using quick change bushings or equivalent on your press/dies?
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From what you said here the decrimper has no bearing on setting the die in your press. Lee dies have a lock ring or nut that is not locked in place like RCBS dies has. This lock ring/nut can turn and move and change the position your die is set at. Could it be this nut has rotated/moved down the die and just needs to be readjusted? Are you using quick change bushings or equivalent on your press/dies?
I've tried that. There's still the gap no matter where I set the die in the press. It feels like something's stuck in there but I know there isn't. I completely washed it out with rubbing alcohol when it was disassembled.
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when you refer to the "decrimper," are you referring to the primer pocket swaging tool?
for your problem with the gap, try removing the decapping/expanding pin and the collet that holds it in place. once those are removed, readjust the die height, and then run the brass through again. report back if you're still having problems with the gap after removing the pin and collet.
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when you refer to the "decrimper," are you referring to the primer pocket swaging tool?
for your problem with the gap, try removing the decapping/expanding pin and the collet that holds it in place. once those are removed, readjust the die height, and then run the brass through again. report back if you're still having problems with the gap after removing the pin and collet.
Sorry, I meant the expanding pin. Not sure where I got crimp from. I'll give that a try and see if it touches the shell holder.
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For the past month, I'm not able to get the die to touch the shell holder when resizing the case. There was a 1/8 inch gap. I discovered that the decrimper expanding pin was frozen so had to put it in my vise to open it. I cleaned off the residue and reset. Now the gap is a quarter inch. What do you think is going on? Is it time to replace?
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Your terminology is puzzling.
What press and caliber is this?
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Your terminology is puzzling.
What press and caliber is this?
Lee single press and 7.62x54r.
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Your terminology is puzzling.
What press and caliber is this?
maybe the case is stretching? LOL
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I agree with OF; your terminology is still puzzling.
what do you mean when you said that your expanding pin was "frozen"? for the lee sizing dies, the expanding/decapping rod is designed to move in the collet. the idea is to prevent you from snapping decapping pins when you come across berdan primers or out of spec flash holes. if you cranked down the collet too tightly into the full-length sizing die, then it kind of defeats the purpose of the "floating" design.
i suspect that you locked in the height of the expanding/decapping rod at the wrong height and you tightened the collet down too much thereby preventing the expanding/decapping rod from floating. of course, this is just a wild ass guess.
this is also why i recommended that you remove the collet and the expanding/decapping rod and report back if the problem still persists.
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Lee single press and 7.62x54r.
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Which Lee single stage is it?
They make at least 3 different models.
Look see if the press frame is cracked.
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I removed both and there's still a gap. I guess it's time to replace the resizing die, really. The collet was frozen and I had to bang on it with a ratchet until it loosened.
The Lee instructions says "The decapper is retained by the collet. [That's where I almost got decrimper from.] Should it be overstressed by an obstruction; it simply slides up without damage. To reset, loosen the decapper clamp and position the decapper flush with clamp end and retighten. Considerable torque may be necessary." [Their emphasis.]
There does seem to be a small bur in the sloped part of the neck in the die but I wouldn't say it's causing an obstruction... or maybe it is.
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From the photo it looks like you can loosen the large nut that keeps the die tight in the press and screw it down to the shell holder.
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From the photo it looks like you can loosen the large nut that keeps the die tight in the press and screw it down to the shell holder.
I've tried that.
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I've tried that.
I see upon further scrutiny that it looks like you are using a quick change bushing or equivalent?
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I see upon further scrutiny that it looks like you are using a quick change bushing or equivalent?
Yes, it was included in the Lee Anniversary Kit so I bought bushings for all of my dies. Very convenient.
For the replacement, should I get FL or neck?
https://www.midwayusa.com/product/897423/rcbs-neck-sizer-die-762x54mm-rimmed-russian
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Furst, make sure you are using the correct die and the correct case. If you load for more than one rifle caliber, you can get both the dies and the cases mixed up.
Secondlee, it looks like you are using boxer primed brass cases from the photo. If you are not, check to see that you are using boxer primed cases and not berdan. Berdan cases lack the center flash hole and will prevent the sizing die from touching the shell holder.
Turdly, make sure your casing is well lubed. There should be some amount of resistance when sizing a well lubed case but it shouldn't require gorilla effort. If your brass is not lubed sufficiently, it can cause substantial resistance and cause binding to the point where the die won't touch the shell holder. When this happens to me, I usually end up breaking the rim trying to retract the ram leaving me with a stuck shell case in the die.
Fot-ly, try removing the decapping pin from the resizing die and then setting the die into the press screwing it all the way down until it contacts the shell holder with the ram raised in the full-up position (i.e., with no shell loaded into the shell holder). I can't remember whether Lee's instructions say to lower the ram and then add a 1/4 turn but whatever the instructions say, do that. Next, place a test shell into the shell holder and try to resize the brass. If the problem persists, the problem is with your resizing die. The case is being obstructed by something. If you are able to touch the shell holder than its more than likely to be your decapping pin. You can raise or lower the pin relative to the body of the die to address that issue. I have never had a problem with resizing and decapping a case with the top of the decapping pin set such that the top of the pin is flush with the lock nut that holds it.
I hope one of these works for you.
~F
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Yes, it was included in the Lee Anniversary Kit so I bought bushings for all of my dies. Very convenient.
For the replacement, should I get FL or neck?
https://www.midwayusa.com/product/897423/rcbs-neck-sizer-die-762x54mm-rimmed-russian
i have looked very carefully at the photos you provided. Assuming you are bringing the handle down for a full stroke, then the problem is your die has backed out from the bushing or the bushing is not fitting back in the same place. And per my previous post I would guess your die has backed out. I see no physical reason for why you cannot back off the die nut and screw the die further into the bushing.
1. Are you pulling the handle down for a full stroke in the photo?
2. What is the physical reason why you cannot screw the die farther down into the bushing?
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i have looked very carefully at the photos you provided. Assuming you are bringing the handle down for a full stroke, then the problem is your die has backed out from the bushing or the bushing is not fitting back in the same place. And per my previous post I would guess your die has backed out. I see no physical reason for why you cannot back off the die nut and screw the die further into the bushing.
1. Are you pulling the handle down for a full stroke in the photo?
2. What is the physical reason why you cannot screw the die farther down into the bushing?
1. Yes
2. There is none. I don't believe it's an external problem. I think it's an internal problem. I screw the die mostly in... gap. I screw the die mostly out... gap. I screw the die anywhere in between... the same gap. It's like there's something inside blocking the neck from fully entering the die. I tried to take a photo from the top but difficult to see.
Perhaps you're trying to tell me something that I'm not understanding so here's what the Lee instructions say. "Screw the full length sizer in until it touches the shell holder. Then lower the ram and screw the die in 1/4 to 1/3 turn more. Raise the ram and tighten the lock ring finger tight." That's what I've been doing.
I bought the RCBS neck sizer from Midway. That should work, right? The shipping is only $5 plus rebate.
The case is being obstructed by something.
~F
Sorry, missed your reply. That's my current theory but don't know how to test it. The only problem I see is that small burr seen in the photo.
I'm using Norma, Win, and PPU brass.
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:)
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are you screwing the die in without a case in it?
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are you screwing the die in without a case in it?
Yes.
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1. Yes
2. There is none. I don't believe it's an external problem. I think it's an internal problem. I screw the die mostly in... gap. I screw the die mostly out... gap. I screw the die anywhere in between... the same gap. It's like there's something inside blocking the neck from fully entering the die. I tried to take a photo from the top but difficult to see.
Perhaps you're trying to tell me something that I'm not understanding so here's what the Lee instructions say. "Screw the full length sizer in until it touches the shell holder. Then lower the ram and screw the die in 1/4 to 1/3 turn more. Raise the ram and tighten the lock ring finger tight." That's what I've been doing.
I bought the RCBS neck sizer from Midway. That should work, right? The shipping is only $5 plus rebate.
Sorry, missed your reply. That's my current theory but don't know how to test it. The only problem I see is that small burr seen in the photo.
I'm using Norma, Win, and PPU brass.
So what you are saying is you are extending the press all the way up, tightening the die down against the shell holder, lowering the ram, screwing the die in even farther down a 1/4 turn, tightening the lock nut, and when you raise the ram all the way to the top again, there is a gap?
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So what you are saying is you are extending the press all the way up, tightening the die down against the shell holder, lowering the ram, screwing the die in even farther down a 1/4 turn, tightening the lock nut, and when you raise the ram all the way to the top again, there is a gap?
Yes.
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Yes.
If all of your of your equipment is in good working order, this cannot happen.
Here is what you need to look for:
1. After installing your shell holder, raise the ram all the way up, measure the distance from the top of the shell holder to the top of your bench. Record your measurement on a piece of paper. Raise and lower your ram 20 times different times. Record the measurement each time. This measurement should be exactly the same each time.
2. With the shell holder still installed, raise the ram up to the full height, measure it to make sure it is at the correct height as you previously recorded, loosen the lock nut on your die and screw it all the way down until it hits your shell holder, do not move the die further, lower your ram and measure from your bench to the bottom of the die. This should be exactly the same measurement as the measurement from your bench to the top of your shell holder.
3. If the measurement to the top of your shell holder is not consistent each stroke then your press has a problem.
4. If the measurement from the bottom of the die to your bench is not exactly the same as the measurement from the top of your shell holder to the bench, then you are not adjusting your die correctly.
5. If the measurements are both the same as they should be, then stroke your press a few times until you see the gap appear. If the gap no longer appears then you have correctly set the die. Keep the die from turning and just turn the locking nut clockwise to tighten the die in place and keep it from moving.
6. If the gap appears then follow steps 1 and 2 to figure out which part is not staying in place by comparing the measurements you took previously with the measurements you get now. Which ever measurement is different from your original measurement will tell you which part is failing.
7. Let us know what your results are.
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Checked the ram, linkage arms, pivot points?
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since you're reloading 54R, i would neck size only.
someone correct me if i'm wrong, but i think the 54R indexes off of the rim. because of this, full-length sizing could actually be a bad thing for brass life especially if your mosin has a loose chamber.
i suspect that your mosin has a very loose chamber since it looks like you're getting a noticeable bulge at the head (or at least it looks that way in your pic).
resizing larger rifle cases requires a significant amount more muscle when operating the press compared to 223, x39, and 300BLK. i've never reloaded 54R, but i'm assuming that the amount of force required for resizing that cartridge is similar to 308 or 30-06. i suggest removing the decapping pin and collet, lubing a case up a lot, and then Putin (intentional pun) some muscle into it. the worst that could happen is the case gets stuck and you'll have to punch it out of the die.
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If all of your of your equipment is in good working order, this cannot happen.
7. Let us know what your results are.
I agree. It's a head scratcher. The press seems to be "measuring" up. I don't have any problems with the other calibers although this is the largest of the four and the only bolt rifle.
since you're reloading 54R, i would neck size only.
That's why I bought the RCBS die. Should be arriving next Tuesday. Perhaps the constant FL sizing has taken a toll on the die. The brass seems fine except you can see how far down the neck the die goes.
i suspect that your mosin has a very loose chamber since it looks like you're getting a noticeable bulge at the head (or at least it looks that way in your pic).
If you're referring to the bottom of the case, this is as far as the FL die goes. There's about a quarter inch gap between the bottom of the die and the rim. I agree that the neck die will be much better on the brass.
i suggest removing the decapping pin and collet, lubing a case up a lot, and then Putin (intentional pun) some muscle into it.
(https://i.imgflip.com/19949m.jpg)
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What type of case lube are you using? did you try to size the brass without the decapping rod in the die?
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What type of case lube are you using? did you try to size the brass without the decapping rod in the die?
Lee lube. Yes.
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Not sure about Lee dies but most RCBS sizer dies for bottle neck cases have a "Breather Hole" to allow for air to escape when the tight fitting die presses in.
If this hole gets clogged, you wont be able to fully press the die down against the compressed air in brass, especially larger cases.
Check to see if there is a breather hole and if so, make sure its clear.
Poke through with pin, swab inside with patch and die cleaner or similar.
Just a thought
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I found the breather hold underneath the locking nut. I assume it's able to breath, otherwise bad design. I now know what the thing that looked like a burr inside the die is. I cleaned it out thoroughly but there's still a gap. If I still have a gap with the incoming RCBS die, then I'll blame the brass. Don't think that's likely though...
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I found the breather hold underneath the locking nut. I assume it's able to breath, otherwise bad design. I now know what the thing that looked like a burr inside the die is. I cleaned it out thoroughly but there's still a gap. If I still have a gap with the incoming RCBS die, then I'll blame the brass. Don't think that's likely though...
You'll usually scratch the casing if something is sticking out of the whole inhibiting the case and die to maryy.
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I found the breather hold underneath the locking nut. I assume it's able to breath, otherwise bad design. I now know what the thing that looked like a burr inside the die is. I cleaned it out thoroughly but there's still a gap. If I still have a gap with the incoming RCBS die, then I'll blame the brass. Don't think that's likely though...
Using the correct brass ? :rofl: :rofl: :rofl: :rofl:
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I still trying to figure out exactly what you are explaining.
1. Die is screwed down till it touches off on the shell holder.
2. Ram is retracted, die is screwed down another 1/4 turn and locked into place.
3. Ram is returned (with no fired case) and shell holder touches die.
4. Attempting to size a case, the ram and case advances into the die, sizing the case, then cannot be forced any more and shell holder plate is not touching the bottom of the die.
Is this correct?
Did you try and measure the over all length of the attempted to size case?
Is it overly long? Is the top of the neck hitting the top of the die?
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I still trying to figure out exactly what you are explaining.
Is this correct?
Did you try and measure the over all length of the attempted to size case?
Is it overly long? Is the top of the neck hitting the top of the die?
Correct.
I'm using both 53r Norma brass and 54r PPU brass. The PPU brass requires a lite trim but not enough to mess with the die.
Using the correct brass ? :rofl: :rofl: :rofl: :rofl:
I'm supposed to use brass? :rofl: :rofl: :rofl: :rofl:
You'll usually scratch the casing if something is sticking out of the whole inhibiting the case and die to maryy.
I checked that too. No scratches on the brass...
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Did you ever find no out what is causing this?
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Did you ever find no out what is causing this?
Russians.
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Did you ever find no out what is causing this?
The Chinese hacked into his press and installed malware, Trojans, viruses and steel eating bacteria. :rofl: :rofl: :rofl:
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No, UPS transferred my delivery to USPS so should be getting the new die any month now.
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No, UPS transferred my delivery to USPS so should be getting the new die any month now.
That's not funny. :o :o :o
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Russians.
Hmmmm maybe N. Korea! They can't seem to get their missles to work either....
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That's not funny. :o :o :o
Dang...
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That's not funny. :o :o :o
Yes, it's the sad truth. I finally convinced my postal carrier to stop delivering to the side of my house and deliver to the back door instead. Maybe now we can finally stop playing hide and seek with my packages.
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Yes, it's the sad truth. I finally convinced my postal carrier to stop delivering to the side of my house and deliver to the back door instead. Maybe now we can finally stop playing hide and seek with my packages.
I had a feeling you preferred packages delivered in the rear.....
:rofl: :rofl: :rofl: :rofl:
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I had a feeling you preferred packages delivered in the rear.....
:rofl: :rofl: :rofl: :rofl:
Maybe from you but not the postman...
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Dang...
I get really annoyed with the delivery service where it starts off with UPS and then they hand it over to USPS. It seems like it takes an extra week or two or three or.....
And the tracking number sometimes is good for UPS but not for when it gets handed over to USPS. So eventually the package cannot be tracked. I realize it is just an annoyance but it annoys me enough that I try and avoid buying from companies that use that type of delivery.
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I get really annoyed with the delivery service where it starts off with UPS and then they hand it over to USPS. It seems like it takes an extra week or two or three or.....
And the tracking number sometimes is good for UPS but not for when it gets handed over to USPS. So eventually the package cannot be tracked. I realize it is just an annoyance but it annoys me enough that I try and avoid buying from companies that use that type of delivery.
Seems to happen more and more these days. One month it's direct from UPS, then next it's passed on to USPS. I imagine it's based on how busy UPS is for that last mile to my house.
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Mission accomplished!!! :geekdanc: :geekdanc: :geekdanc:
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Mission accomplished!!! :geekdanc: :geekdanc: :geekdanc:
except your press is sideways
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Or my head is at a permanent 90 degree angle...
(I blame Steve Jobs. What an a-hole.)
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I get really annoyed with the delivery service where it starts off with UPS and then they hand it over to USPS. It seems like it takes an extra week or two or three or.....
Yup UPS Parcel Post pisses me off! There's a yearly fee you can pay to avoid them sending it to USPS. I've just been buying more from eBay and Amazon nowadays.
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except your press is sideways
Hard to keep the powder in the case when seating. :shaka: :shaka: :shaka:
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Hard to keep the powder in the case when seating. :shaka: :shaka: :shaka:
Not if you're fast enough...
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I think I'm having a similar problem with the.223 Lee FL die also. I bought this shortly after the 54r die set. I can't seem to keep the primer pin flush with the collette. No matter how hard I crank it with the ratchet, it slips up about an eighth of an inch. I'm afraid it's not forming the neck properly, so I ordered another RCSB neck die from Amazon.
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I think I'm having a similar problem with the.223 Lee FL die also. I bought this shortly after the 54r die set. I can't seem to keep the primer pin flush with the collette. No matter how hard I crank it with the ratchet, it slips up about an eighth of an inch. I'm afraid it's not forming the neck properly, so I ordered another RCSB neck die from Amazon.
In my experience with the 223 Lee FL die, you need to crank the jam nut pretty tight. Mine doesn't move even on crimped primer pockets.
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In my experience with the 223 Lee FL die, you need to crank the jam nut pretty tight. Mine doesn't move even on crimped primer pockets.
I'm using my vise. I'm afraid if I crank it any harder, I'll break my ratchet. Do you think the 1/8" makes much difference in accuracy for an AR-15?
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I'm using my vise. I'm afraid if I crank it any harder, I'll break my ratchet. Do you think the 1/8" makes much difference in accuracy for an AR-15?
I'm thinking no. I would measure the case after sizing. Check that the expander ball is bringing your neck tension to about .003".
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I don't know man. I've loaded thousands of rounds with lee stuff with no problems, before upgrading to Redding body dies. I still use Lee collar neck sizer.
I know if the shell is not completely straight and seated in the shell holder, the decapping stem can hit inside the case and cause the stem to push up through the top of the die, requiring it to be reset. This feature is to save from breaking decapping stem, and it works.
Can't visualize the problem with your dies. Somethings not right.
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Check that the expander ball is bringing your neck tension to about .003".
I'm not sure what that means. I've tried using my caliper but everything seems in uniform. I'm afraid that the die is not going down the neck far enough, but I don't know how that effects the accuracy of the round.
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I'm not sure what that means. I've tried using my caliper but everything seems in uniform. I'm afraid that the die is not going down the neck far enough, but I don't know how that effects the accuracy of the round.
The pin has nothing to do with sizing the shoulder. It deprimes the case and the expander ball brings the neck back to proper size. Using a headspace gauge can check what you are describing.
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Just a stab here but could it be the shell holder being used was not machined correctly and is causing probs? if you got one, try another shell holder. If no gots lemme know which one it is and I can loan you mine for testing. Is ya want, bring you die and some brass over to my place (Mililani) and we can do some testing on on my press, equip etc. You shouldnt have to crank that lock nut for the decapper down like that. All my dies and shell holders are Leeann if ve never had any probs. Lemme know, ok? :thumbsup: :shaka:
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Just so we're not assuming the obvious. You are lightly lubing the insides of the neck?
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for the Lee dies, the top of the decapping/expanding pin does not need to sit flush with the top of the collet. if it pushes up 1/8 inches above flush after reassembling the collet, then just leave it that way.
the lee dies are designed where the decapping/expanding pin will automatically adjust. after reassembling the lee die, the decapping/expanding pin will re-position itself after it bottoms out on the web of the case.
there is nothing wrong with the decapping/expanding pin sticking out a bit from the top of the collet. so long as the decapping/expanding pin is able to expand the neck and decap the case, it is doing its job.
if you crank down the collet and make it too tight, you're essentially turning your lee die into the RCBS full length dies. the difference is that RCBS uses a replaceable decapping pin, which is designed to break for out of spec flash holes or berdan primed brass.
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for the Lee dies, the top of the decapping/expanding pin does not need to sit flush with the top of the collet. if it pushes up 1/8 inches above flush after reassembling the collet, then just leave it that way.
the lee dies are designed where the decapping/expanding pin will automatically adjust. after reassembling the lee die, the decapping/expanding pin will re-position itself after it bottoms out on the web of the case.
there is nothing wrong with the decapping/expanding pin sticking out a bit from the top of the collet. so long as the decapping/expanding pin is able to expand the neck and decap the case, it is doing its job.
if you crank down the collet and make it too tight, you're essentially turning your lee die into the RCBS full length dies. the difference is that RCBS uses a replaceable decapping pin, which is designed to break for out of spec flash holes or berdan primed brass.
I had heard this somewhere before but wasn't sure how it effects accuracy. The Lee neck sizer will arrive on Friday so I can compare the two dies.
Just so we're not assuming the obvious. You are lightly lubing the insides of the neck?
Maybe not enough. I hate having the powder stick to the lube residue. I bought a bottle of Dillon Case Lube so I could try that on a Qtip instead of the Lee Case Lube.
:shaka:
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Update:
I tried a second shell holder and used Dillon case lube on a qtip for the inside of the neck. I reset the primer pin so it's flush and seated the die in the press per instructions. The die goes down to a 1/8" gap (first photo). When I press down, the pin goes up 1/8" (second photo). The resized neck seems fine. When I try to resize a second case, it looks like the die doesn't go as far down the neck with a .005" difference. Next, I took out the primer pin and it seemed to resize fine but not sure if it matters with or without the ball pin. I use a deprimer die anyways so don't really need the primer pin in the sizing die. My Lee neck sizer should arrive tomorrow so I'll try comparing when it's here.
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Update:
I tried a second shell holder and used Dillon case lube on a qtip for the inside of the neck. I reset the primer pin so it's flush and seated the die in the press per instructions. The die goes down to a 1/8" gap (first photo). When I press down, the pin goes up 1/8" (second photo). The resized neck seems fine. When I try to resize a second case, it looks like the die doesn't go as far down the neck with a .005" difference. Next, I took out the primer pin and it seemed to resize fine but not sure if it matters with or without the ball pin. I use a deprimer die anyways so don't really need the primer pin in the sizing die. My Lee neck sizer should arrive tomorrow so I'll try comparing when it's here.
the short answer is, yes, you need to keep the decapping/expanding pin.
Bushido explained this earlier.
The pin has nothing to do with sizing the shoulder. It deprimes the case and the expander ball brings the neck back to proper size. Using a headspace gauge can check what you are describing.
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the short answer is, yes, you need to keep the decapping/expanding pin.
Bushido explained this earlier.
That's what I thought but wasn't sure. I used the Lee case length gauge and it barely fit in the neck without the expanding ball. Once the bullet is seated into the case, I guess it doesn't make a difference. It's just slightly more resistant when I will insert the bullet.
I received the RCBS neck die today from Amazon. They were a day early. I'm not sure why I thought it was a Lee. Anyways, the RCBS is smoother but doesn't go down the neck as far as the Lee dies so in the end, I guess it doesn't really matter how far down the neck the die goes. In the photo, the RCBS is on the left and Lee on the right.
My understanding is that the neck sizing is only relevant to bolt action rifles so I guess I don't need it. I'll send it back to Amazon unless anyone wants to buy it from me for $32?
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That's what I thought but wasn't sure. I used the Lee case length gauge and it barely fit in the neck without the expanding ball. Once the bullet is seated into the case, I guess it doesn't make a difference. It's just slightly more resistant when I will insert the bullet.
I received the RCBS neck die today from Amazon. They were a day early. I'm not sure why I thought it was a Lee. Anyways, the RCBS is smoother but doesn't go down the neck as far as the Lee dies so in the end, I guess it doesn't really matter how far down the neck the die goes. In the photo, the RCBS is on the left and Lee on the right.
My understanding is that the neck sizing is only relevant to bolt action rifles so I guess I don't need it. I'll send it back to Amazon unless anyone wants to buy it from me for $32?
what you're referring to is "neck tension," and, yes, it is also important.
Bushido mentioned this earlier also:
I'm thinking no. I would measure the case after sizing. Check that the expander ball is bringing your neck tension to about .003".
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what you're referring to is "neck tension," and, yes, it is also important.
Bushido mentioned this earlier also:
Quote from: Bushido on May 22, 2017, 06:10:25 AM
I'm thinking no. I would measure the case after sizing. Check that the expander ball is bringing your neck tension to about .003".
The cases that were sized without the expanding ball look to have a .002" smaller OD than the cases with the expanding ball. Other than that, I don't turn necks or use seating bushings. I suppose the narrower OD neck has more tension on the bullet.
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did you trim the cases?
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Update:
I tried a second shell holder and used Dillon case lube on a qtip for the inside of the neck. I reset the primer pin so it's flush and seated the die in the press per instructions. The die goes down to a 1/8" gap (first photo). When I press down, the pin goes up 1/8" (second photo). The resized neck seems fine. When I try to resize a second case, it looks like the die doesn't go as far down the neck with a .005" difference. Next, I took out the primer pin and it seemed to resize fine but not sure if it matters with or without the ball pin. I use a deprimer die anyways so don't really need the primer pin in the sizing die. My Lee neck sizer should arrive tomorrow so I'll try comparing when it's here.
From the looks of your photo, your die is not adjusted correctly. There's a few forum members with open invitations for reloaders to visit their homes for a hands on demo. I would consider taking them up on their offer. It's a lot easier to show someone than to use a keyboard and try to attempt an explanation.
You aboslutely need the decapping pin in you Lee FL die. If you adjust your die properly and remove the pin, the body will be resized, the shoulders will be bumped back but your neck will UNDERSIZED. With a properly set Lee FL die, the neck will be correctly sized on the down stroke of the ram as the neck gets dragged over the expander ball which is part of the decapping pin.
I do use a neck die and a seperate body die for certain applications. I personally wouldn't neck size only for an AR platform which looks like what you shoot. Too much chance for the expanded shoulder to cause the bolt not to fully engage the barrel extension which could cause bad things to happen. My $.02
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did you trim the cases?
After the sizing...
I decided to keep using the Lee die (with pin) and send back the RCBS (unless you'd like to buy it for $32).
Thanks guys. :shaka:
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are your issues related to your 7.62x54R dies or the 223 dies?
your initial posts are related to the 54R, but your recent posts and pics are 223.
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I dont think youre screwing the dies far enough.
With no brass raise the ram to the top. Screw die till it touches the shell holder. Lee recommends an additional quarter or half turn in.
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are your issues related to your 7.62x54R dies or the 223 dies?
your initial posts are related to the 54R, but your recent posts and pics are 223.
It was initially 54r then solved that with a RCBS neck die. Then I noticed a problem with my .223 sizing die. Both were bought around the same time. I decided the .223 problem wasn't as bad as I initially thought. It's great to have people like y'all to bounce ideas around with.
I dont think youre screwing the dies far enough.
With no brass raise the ram to the top. Screw die till it touches the shell holder. Lee recommends an additional quarter or half turn in.
Yep, as instructed. I think I'm just wearing out my Lee dies. I have a month to return the second RCBS die to Amazon. I don't feel bad about it because I pay $100 per year for the Prime privilege.
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I think I'm just wearing out my Lee dies.
how many rounds are you making?
it takes A LOT of rounds to wear out a die
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how many rounds are you making?
it takes A LOT of rounds to wear out a die
I agree but it sure seems like it.
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I discovered there's an issue with using the 54r RCBS neck sizer instead of the Lee FL sizer. The RCBS has the .308 expanding ball and I replaced the Lee die with the .311 expanding ball. I'm not sure if I can put the Lee .311 into the RCBS but doubt it. The result is that the neck bulges a bit when I insert the .312 bullet into the .308 sized neck. It's supposedly a problem because it tends to bulge out one side more than the other so it's off center by .003". How much does this effect accuracy... who's to say? I bought size 4 lead weights at JHara and slugged the bore again. This time I got .312" which is a lot better than the .314" I got before with the larger lead weights.
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I discovered there's an issue with using the 54r RCBS neck sizer instead of the Lee FL sizer. The RCBS has the .308 expanding ball and I replaced the Lee die with the .311 expanding ball. I'm not sure if I can put the Lee .311 into the RCBS but doubt it. The result is that the neck bulges a bit when I insert the .312 bullet into the .308 sized neck. It's supposedly a problem because it tends to bulge out one side more than the other so it's off center by .003". How much does this effect accuracy... who's to say? I bought size 4 lead weights at JHara and slugged the bore again. This time I got .312" which is a lot better than the .314" I got before with the larger lead weights.
I have both the RCBS FL and the Neck Sizing dies and they both came with the larger expanding ball that you can replace the .308 ball with. If yours did not come with the larger neck expander ball I suggest you write RCBS and I am sure they will send you one.
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I was about to resize the cases when I read your post. I put them in a bag until I get the new expander ball. Unfortunately for me (not them), they are off the next two days so it will be some time.
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RCBS said they're mailing me the .311 expander for free. Winning...
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RCBS said they're mailing me the .311 expander for free. Winning...
Most of my reloading equipment is RCBS. Not all, but most of my regularly used tools are. They replace worn out parts. I don't expect them to replace worn out parts. Just if something breaks. Their customer service is very good.
Glad to hear they took good care of you. :thumbsup: :thumbsup: :thumbsup:
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It has arrived!