2aHawaii
Tools and Uses => Firearms and Accessories => Topic started by: Ichigeki Hissatsu on February 28, 2012, 10:44:53 PM
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What shop locally sells steel cased .223 ammo by the case (bulk cans or cases of 1000) for the cheapest?
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I have some wolf I was going to unload at the gun show. I gotta see how much I got left.
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never went to the gun show before. Was hoping for dealers that stock them on a regular basis
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I forget what brand but young guns has a march special on 556. $3799 for 100. Forget how much for the bulk.
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I forget what brand but young guns has a march special on 556. $3799 for 100. Forget how much for the bulk.
Holy cow! :o
$3799 for 100 rounds. :shake:
Are they platinum cased, silverbullets with gold dust gun powder?
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Holy cow! :o
$3799 for 100 rounds. :shake:
Are they platinum cased, silverbullets with gold dust gun powder?
LoL KK.
I forget what brand but young guns has a march special on 556. $3799 for 100. Forget how much for the bulk.
I'm assuming you mean $37.99 for 100 rounds. That's pretty dang expensive. Even in bulk, i doubt it would come out cheaper than what carter sells brass 5.56 on a regular basis. Basically i was hoping to find a shop out there that sells steel cased .223 that's CHEAPER than carters prices. Was hoping for $280 - $290 a case or something (1000 rds). I don't reload. I don't think i ever will.....maybe. Even if i do, it won't be for years until financially i am able to buy all the equipment and reload enough to make my investment in the reloading equipment worth it. Right now, i'm just looking for the cheapest possible ammo available so i can go out and shoot more. As it is right now, i only go out a few times a year.
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We have steel cased 223 coming in for only $269/1000. Will be here by Tuesday.
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holy crap carter thanks for letting me (us) know. I'll be sure to stop by and pick up a case from you.
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We have steel cased 223 coming in for only $269/1000. Will be here by Tuesday.
*sets reminder on phone for Tuesday*
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Why would you want to put laquer(glue) inside of your firearm??
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Why would you want to put laquer(glue) inside of your firearm??
Because the ammo is frikken cheap and the gun is easy enough to clean up.
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^^^BTW cleaning is much easier with a piston AR.
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Don't mean to hijack this thread but by comparison to the .223, what would the cheapest available ammo in Hawaii be for a 7.62 X 39mm round?
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^^^Cheapest ammo is typically going to be a reload, military surplus, or a steel cased ammo.
I don't really shop AK ammo, so I'm not sure what the price points are on that.
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>:(
^^^Cheapest ammo is typically going to be a reload, military surplus, or a steel cased ammo.
I don't really shop AK ammo, so I'm not sure what the price points are on that.
Aaahhh, lose money. :geekdanc:
OGC typically has the lowest prices on 7.62x39 ammo.
Their usual price is $299 for 1000 rounds which works out to $5.98 per box of 20 or 29.9 cents a round.
When on sale, they usually have 1000 rounds for $279.00 or $5.58 per box of 20 or 27.9 cents a round.
Occasionally, Security Equipment runs theirs on sale for $5.69 per box of 20 or 28.5 cents a round.
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^^^BTW cleaning is much easier with a piston AR.
i have 2 of them lol :wacko:
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Why would you want to put laquer(glue) inside of your firearm??
because as far as i know, that is just a myth that has been debunked by a few people on youtube etc.
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>:(
Aaahhh, lose money. :geekdanc:
OGC typically has the lowest prices on 7.62x39 ammo.
Their usual price is $299 for 1000 rounds which works out to $5.98 per box of 20 or 29.9 cents a round.
When on sale, they usually have 1000 rounds for $279.00 or $5.58 per box of 20 or 27.9 cents a round.
Occasionally, Security Equipment runs theirs on sale for $5.69 per box of 20 or 28.5 cents a round.
So, that's roughly the same price for the .223? Looks like the price of AK ammo is roughly the same as the AR. I always thought the AK ammo was much cheaper and that was one of the draws.
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because as far as i know, that is just a myth that has been debunked by a few people on youtube etc.
Both you guys are right.
It was happening when the gun got REALLY hot. Not 1 round every 3 seconds.
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Both you guys are right.
It was happening when the gun got REALLY hot. Not 1 round every 3 seconds.
Well it is up to you all.
This is the problem I have with steel cases.
1. The case is covered in laquer to prevent it from rusting. The laquer melts when the round is fired and coats the chamber of the gun. This mixes with powder fouling gumming up the chamber and bolt.
Just because you shoot slow doesn't mean the gunk is not building up. And how can you be sure you cleaned all that crap out at the end of the day?
2. The steel case does not expand when the round is fired. Therefore the camber is not completely sealed. Powder and jacket fouling is free to further contaminate the chamber and action.
3. Steel cases are much harder than brass. Steel on steel contact during the violent cycling of the action will enevitably excelerate wear on the bolt, chamber, extractor and ejector.
4. The expantion of brass cases 'grabs' the sides of the chamber when a round is fired. This diminishes the force applied to the bolt of the rifle and bolt lugs. Since the steel cases do not expand much the case can not resist the force of the round firing. The bolt lugs contain the entire force of the explosion. This cannot be good for the firearm.
90% of all the times I have seen someone having to beat open the bolt of their AR, or pound out a case with a cleaning rod, the culprit was a cheap POS steel cased round. Beating on a firearm is not the best thing for longevity IMHO.
So, you can use those if you think YouTube is on it. Im just saying none of my guns will ever see a steel cased round.
I don't believe in saving on cheap ammo, and then, perhaps, spending a whole lot more fixing an expensive firearm.
Good luck. :shaka:
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The lacquer is not a problem. Just make sure you sand between coats. :shaka:
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The lacquer is not a problem. Just make sure you sand between coats. :shaka:
What do you mean sand between coats? ???
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Well it is up to you all.
This is the problem I have with steel cases.
1. The case is covered in laquer to prevent it from rusting. The laquer melts when the round is fired and coats the chamber of the gun. This mixes with powder fouling gumming up the chamber and bolt.
Just because you shoot slow doesn't mean the gunk is not building up. And how can you be sure you cleaned all that crap out at the end of the day?
2. The steel case does not expand when the round is fired. Therefore the camber is not completely sealed. Powder and jacket fouling is free to further contaminate the chamber and action.
3. Steel cases are much harder than brass. Steel on steel contact during the violent cycling of the action will enevitably excelerate wear on the bolt, chamber, extractor and ejector.
4. The expantion of brass cases 'grabs' the sides of the chamber when a round is fired. This diminishes the force applied to the bolt of the rifle and bolt lugs. Since the steel cases do not expand much the case can not resist the force of the round firing. The bolt lugs contain the entire force of the explosion. This cannot be good for the firearm.
90% of all the times I have seen someone having to beat open the bolt of their AR, or pound out a case with a cleaning rod, the culprit was a cheap POS steel cased round. Beating on a firearm is not the best thing for longevity IMHO.
So, you can use those if you think YouTube is on it. Im just saying none of my guns will ever see a steel cased round.
I don't believe in saving on cheap ammo, and then, perhaps, spending a whole lot more fixing an expensive firearm.
Good luck. :shaka:
1. The steel cased rounds aren't coated with lacquer anymore. It's coated with polymer which doesn't end up melting and coating your chamber etc with gunk.
2. I shoot piston ar's so the blowback from unsealed chamber is pretty much the ONLY fouling i'll get in my receiver. I can live with that. I am also already aware that if i were to bring both brass and steel cased, to shoot the brass cased stuff first to prevent brass from getting stuck in the chamber due to the extra fouling.
3. You got me there...but has anyone ever done tests on this to see exactly how many rounds it takes before you start to see this "excessive" wear? From reading a lot of forums and listening to people on youtube, a lot of them just say stuff that "makes sense" but they have no facts to back them up. If i can get 15-20k+ rounds before the excessive wear starts to affect my rifles performance, then i would say it's a good trade off seeing that after 20k rounds, my barrel is nearing or already at the end of its life anyway.
4. Basing prices that i would generally get from carter (OGC), i could spend $300 a case for brass or $270 a case for steel. After 5 cases, i would have saved $150. If my bolts breaks after 5k rounds, i would say that's a good trade off seeing that i can get a new milspec bolt for maybe...$70??
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What do you mean sand between coats? ???
Sorry, it was a bad joke. :wacko:
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Does the military use steel cased ammo? They shoot a bunch and are going through budget cuts. What about police departments? They both got lots of guns and need lots of ammo. Well not as much as we would like them to though. They don't reload. Polymer coated should mean it would corrode less easier than brass and perhaps have a longer shelf life. What's not to like? Maybe the polymer coating isn't bpa free and hazardous to those who get shot by bullets fired from polymer coated steel cases.
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1. The steel cased rounds aren't coated with lacquer anymore. It's coated with polymer which doesn't end up melting and coating your chamber etc with gunk.
2. I shoot piston ar's so the blowback from unsealed chamber is pretty much the ONLY fouling i'll get in my receiver. I can live with that. I am also already aware that if i were to bring both brass and steel cased, to shoot the brass cased stuff first to prevent brass from getting stuck in the chamber due to the extra fouling.
3. You got me there...but has anyone ever done tests on this to see exactly how many rounds it takes before you start to see this "excessive" wear? From reading a lot of forums and listening to people on youtube, a lot of them just say stuff that "makes sense" but they have no facts to back them up. If i can get 15-20k+ rounds before the excessive wear starts to affect my rifles performance, then i would say it's a good trade off seeing that after 20k rounds, my barrel is nearing or already at the end of its life anyway.
4. Basing prices that i would generally get from carter (OGC), i could spend $300 a case for brass or $270 a case for steel. After 5 cases, i would have saved $150. If my bolts breaks after 5k rounds, i would say that's a good trade off seeing that i can get a new milspec bolt for maybe...$70??
Just saw this video and thought of this thread. Go to 10:38
Firearms Myths (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zzyGdULmn98#)