2aHawaii
Tools and Uses => Reloading => Topic started by: rklapp on October 07, 2017, 09:49:52 PM
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Amazon said it wasn't arriving until Monday. Winning!!!
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Rifle dies?
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Yes, I know what I'm doing today.
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Yes, I know what I'm doing today.
Try not to do it drunk or stoned this time, okay? :rofl: :rofl: :rofl:
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What if I'm hung over? 8)
Here's the included instructions.
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What caliber?
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What if I'm hung over? 8)
Here's the included instructions.
No hair of the dog....
Instructions seem the same as all RCBS dies. Is there a difference?
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Yes, these are specific to the AR series dies. I'm still confused about the seating procedures and can't find a decent video for that specific die related to the back of the instructions.
It still appears that the vent hole is covered by the locking ring.
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Yes, these are specific to the AR series dies. I'm still confused about the seating procedures and can't find a decent video for that specific die related to the back of the instructions.
It still appears that the vent hole is covered by the locking ring.
don't over lube. never use oneshot
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Yes, these are specific to the AR series dies. I'm still confused about the seating procedures and can't find a decent video for that specific die related to the back of the instructions.
It still appears that the vent hole is covered by the locking ring.
Okay, I read the entire set of instructions. They seem pretty straight forward. I will send you a PM.
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Yes, I know what I'm doing today.
was weird, I couldnt' expand the picture earlier to see the label, now I can. But normally the 2 die sets are rifle, so I asked. lol
good ruck, and have fun!
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Yes, these are specific to the AR series dies. I'm still confused about the seating procedures and can't find a decent video for that specific die related to the back of the instructions.
It still appears that the vent hole is covered by the locking ring.
seating is normally pretty straight forward. I dont know about your particular dies, so dyodd.
Put the bullet head into the top of the case, then into your press, which should have the seater die in it already.
back the screw in part of the seater die way out.
Run the press so the bullet is all the way up (but not touching the seater in the die). If you're hitting resistance from the seater, you need to back it out more.
Screw the seater down until it touches the top of the bullet.
Lower the bullet in the press.
Gradually screw the seater downwards in the die until you reach the right total bullet length (refer to your manual for the correct oal). You can keep testing the bullet for corerct seating by running the ram every time you adjust the die.
Once you reach the right length, you're good to go! And by not messing with the seater, you shouldn't have to deal with readjusting the die for future reloads on the assumption you stick with the same bullet heads. Using different type of bullet heads may mean you'll have to readjust the die.
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i'm not familiar with reloading 223, but for that decapping die, my recommendation would be to back that pin way up so its sticking maybe 1/4" out of the die. It's too far down right now. If you run the case through the press, and it's not taking out the primer, you should adjust your die downwards in the press until it does.
again dyodd, im not responsible for stuck cases or broken dies. lol
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don't over lube. never use oneshot
Yeah, that's the main reason why I wanted to switch to RCBS for the .223. I was tired of dented necks and the RCBS is easier to clean than the Lee.
The kit comes with a seating/crimp die. Instead of a knob on top, it has a nut to adjust the crimp when seating the bullet. Something new.
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You dont want to just rely on neck tension?
for those seating/crimp dies, i think you normally seat to correct depth on the bullet. then back the seating screw out, adjust die to get proper crimp on the bullet. Then screw the seating screw back down to the bullet. Lock everything in position, now with a single crank, it should seat and crimp. So it's an extra step to get the die in position for the crimp.
Alternatively, you could seat the bullet first, then back the seating screw all the way out, adjust the die for crimp, and crimp in a separate step.
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Easy peasy... ;D
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don't over lube. never use oneshot
Hmmmmm one shot? Been using one shot for over 25 years and never had any problems. What problems did you encounter! :shaka:
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The risk is getting lube on the neck and shoulder instead of the bottom third of the case. I think it still tends to creep up the die over time no matter what you use so periodic cleaning is needed.
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The risk is getting lube on the neck and shoulder instead of the bottom third of the case. I think it still tends to creep up the die over time no matter what you use so periodic cleaning is needed.
Hmmmm interesting.....
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The risk is getting lube on the neck and shoulder instead of the bottom third of the case. I think it still tends to creep up the die over time no matter what you use so periodic cleaning is needed.
I use a very small amount of RCBS lube on a pad for my plinking stuff. I process thousands like this with no dents using Lee FL die.
I use imperial on my precision stuff using Redding Body Die. A little lube goes a long way.
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The new sizing die is awesome. Works better than the RCBS neck sizing die I tried last month. Having a little trouble with the seating/crimp die. Keeps crushing the shoulder. Fortunately, I have lots of brass to experiment with. I'll try giving Dave a call.
(https://scontent-lax3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/22448240_10214024455835774_7059905240165761750_n.jpg?oh=5e54c32444a143daa8d6200d1ee877f6&oe=5A74615E)
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Crushing shoulder means the die itself is too low, and exerting too much force, hence pushing the rim of tyre case too hard. Did you try the procedures I outlined earlier? The bullets don't appear to be seated to a consistent depth either, did you measure the bullet after? Normally you want to be seating the bullet to around the cannelure.
I would recommend seating and crimping the bullet in 2 steps as I mentioned in one of my posts until you get the hang of it. Back the die out far enough that the brass isnt getting damaged, seat all your bullets first to the correct depth, then back the seating screw all the way out and adjust the die downwards to crimp
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Just get a Lee factory crimp die if you absolutely have to crimp your rifle rounds.
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I think I got it figured out. Per the instructions, it pushes right up to the top of the cannelure. I usually don't like it that short at 2.206". For the non-cannelure, I'll stick with the Lee seating die and not bother with the crimp. The RCBS die distorted the bullet. My Nosler 62gr has a mild cannelure so not sure which die I'll use.
(https://scontent-ort2-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/r270/22406360_10214029924652491_223630291990325989_n.jpg?oh=88f8e2418faa9b5a3138126cd8244505&oe=5A7FCD29)
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You can ignore the cannelure if you don't want the round that short. Just crimp where you want.
I honestly think you can avoid crimping the rounds in general
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True, I'm trying to decide if it's worth it to crimp. I've been thinking about it for the past year. The RCBS actually creates a better looking crimp than the Lee does. I haven't decided yet if I care.
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True, I'm trying to decide if it's worth it to crimp. I've been thinking about it for the past year. The RCBS actually creates a better looking crimp than the Lee does. I haven't decided yet if I care.
to make the Lee factory crimp look better, you crimp the round then rotate the round 1/8th turn and then crimp again.
the good thing about the Lee FCD is that you don't need to trim all of your brass to the same length before crimping. I have a crimp die in 223 and 308 and i only occasionally use it. if i decide to crimp a round, it is usually just plinking ammo.
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True, I'm trying to decide if it's worth it to crimp. I've been thinking about it for the past year. The RCBS actually creates a better looking crimp than the Lee does. I haven't decided yet if I care.
Try shooting both ways and decide. A little crimp supposedly can help accuracy, but keep in mind bench rest shooters dont crimp. Some bullets like it, some dont. If your bullets dont have much neck tension with your cases, it's an better case to crimp. Crimp vs no crimp is one of those things that can devolve into a argument back and forth for 100 pages on shooting forums.
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It's so much fun when I figure shit out.
(https://scontent-lax3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/22366576_10214031375608764_5634603302509052386_n.jpg?oh=52db7deccf1c6841103fb6934c8ee9c9&oe=5A723C85)
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Nice work ;D
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Nice work ;D
The RCBS seating/crimp die is definitely more art than science. I was pushing too hard on the crimp. Kinda like working the clutch on a manual transmission. Now I gotta pull the bullets on two dozen stalled rounds.
to make the Lee factory crimp look better, you crimp the round then rotate the round 1/8th turn and then crimp again.
I didn't like the hard crimp that leaves the four collet gaps. I felt like it was messing up the brass too much even after rotating. I preferred the Lee light crimp which left a mild ridge around the neck. AFAIK, there's only a heavy crimp with the RCBS die (unlike the Lee die) but it's more of a tapered crimp as demonstrated in the instructions I posted above.
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never force the crimp. you should feel resistance only near the end of the stroke. if you feel resistance mid stroke and keep going, you'll crush the shoulder
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never force the crimp. you should feel resistance only near the end of the stroke. if you feel resistance mid stroke and keep going, you'll crush the shoulder
Thanks, that's what I finally figured out. Didn't make much of a difference with the Lee crimp.