2aHawaii
General Topics => General Discussion => Topic started by: changemyoil66 on February 05, 2018, 09:07:22 AM
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With our humidity, I noticed rust to start to build on my HK mags. The area where the paint is worn off. I figure I'm not going to baby my mags to avoid wearing the paint off, so I'll just use them until the rust starts to flake. Then dump them. And buy new mags slowly, so I don't spend $300 1 crack. I've had these mags for about 18 months.
1) So with that being said, if mags can rust, I'll assume guns can also. So how do you guys prevent this without babying your guns? As in, I take the HDF classes so they get dropped or scraped on the ground and stuff like that. Not just bench shooting. So far, no rust on my slide of my pistol. I do not have A/C.
2) Since the rust is not deep yet, should I sand it off and use paint to extend the life of the mags? If yes, what paint do I use?
3) As long as the rust on the mags aren't flaking, are they OK to use?
4) HK forums recommended that I put a light coat of oil on them. But I do dry fire a lot at home, so this would seem humbug to get oily hands all the time and have to re-apply. any other options?
I keep some mags in arms reach in the home (night stand, table, etc...). So they're exposed to air and moisture. The rest sit in a water tight ammo can.
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clp for the ones in the night stand.
store the rest in humidity controlled safe?
not much else you can do. Can probably spray paint em after you make sure you have get all the rust off, idk.
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For the mags that you use often, no worries. The rust usually forms a bit of a barrier that prevents it from going too far as long as it’s not exposed constantly to water. My CZ mags are like that and they get scratched up quickly and surface rust. They aren’t as pricey as HK mags though.
Air and water and key for corrosion. For guns that are rust sensitive, I’ll wipe with Ballistol or one of those Hoppes cloths.
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Ballistol. Light coating after a thorough clean after use. Rag dampened with ballistol stays in or near the safe to wipe down mags or firearms when handled. Bare steel on mags has zero trust on them after many years of handling and use. Even my black powder firearms show no rust, and I use plain tap water to clean them... I do not have a climate controlled safe or house. (I have never shot or used the mags in direct rainfall or mud conditions.)
For something more robust, I've been experimenting with pure mink oil paste. So far so good on my Flintlock, which has been to the range with blowing rain on it.
I got a tin of it from Track Of The Wolf. Been using it for patch lube, lock grease, and rust protection.
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Wd40 specialist
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4) HK forums recommended that I put a light coat of oil on them. But I do dry fire a lot at home, so this would seem humbug to get oily hands all the time and have to re-apply. any other options?
light coat of oil means put it on, and wipe as much off as you can
should not be oily to the touch
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put thick coat of astriglide oil, then rub em all over vigorously
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Wd40 specialist
Another vote for WD40 specialist.
http://www.dayattherange.com/?page_id=3667
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light coat of oil means put it on, and wipe as much off as you can
should not be oily to the touch
Got it, this would make more sense. If not, Mrs. change gonna be pissed there's oil everywhere in the house. Thanks!
Shall I do the same with my rifles that sit in an open safe when I'm home?
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Got it, this would make more sense. If not, Mrs. change gonna be pissed there's oil everywhere in the house. Thanks!
Shall I do the same with my rifles that sit in an open safe when I'm home?
Dunno if you want to try this, but I've been using Break Through Clean products. Apply a thin layer of oil to all surfaces, wait about 10-20 minutes, then wipe off. I do that for all the external parts. It leaves a nice "gloss" but not oily to the touch so I know it left something behind to protect the mental.
I go back once in a while to check and apply again if needed.
https://www.breakthroughclean.com/product/battle-born-high-purity-oil-2-fl-oz-bottle/
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I would remove all the rust first. Rust just makes more rust. It creates a barrier so your oil doesn't penetrate to the metal. It traps moisture, and more rust forms.
Then, I'd recommend Frog Lube. Make sure any oil/WD40 is cleaned away first. Coat the mag and use a hair dryer or heat gun according to instructions to make the metal absorb the Frog Lube into its pores.
Let the mags cool, and wipe off any excess lube. The mags will have a "wet-looking" shine, but will be dry to the touch.
When dry firing, you won't notice any difference. When live firing, the heat of the gun usually causes the lube to partially liquify. It still protects the metal while forming a slippery surface to act like oil.
Frog Lube might be lower on that chart, but I've seen experiments that place FL at the top 3 for rust prevention. However, it doesn't create an oil coating that gets on your hands and everywhere.
I still use Ballistol for a bunch of things, but I like Frog Lube as a protectant/lubricant on my pistols. It smells a lot better than Ballistol, too! :thumbsup:
https://youtu.be/uOB5eCReAQY
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I've always been taught to NEVER use WD40 on guns.
I use a bronze wool soaked with Safari CLP to clean it up
surface rust and leave a thin film of CLP.
I'm going to try the Hoppe's product though.
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I've always been taught to NEVER use WD40 on guns.
I use a bronze wool soaked with Safari CLP to clean it up
surface rust and leave a thin film of CLP.
I'm going to try the Hornady product though.
correction
I meant Hornady not Hoppe
Ignore first post.
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I've always been taught to NEVER use WD40 on guns.
I use a bronze wool soaked with Safari CLP to clean it up
surface rust and leave a thin film of CLP.
I'm going to try the Hoppe's product though.
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I do use wd40 on my guns like a water hose to wash your car. It carries away the grime.
I finish off with Break Free or Corrosion block if it's going into hibernation.
Don't confuse wd40 and wd40specialist
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Once I remove the rust, should I paint it with something? If yes, what type of paint?
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Once I remove the rust, should I paint it with something? If yes, what type of paint?
I wouldn't. The paint is just going to get worn off again. Just have the wipe down rag as mentioned above, and wipe them down before putting away. Hand oils and sweat causes more rust than general humidity.
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Thanks everyone for the replies. This is a 1st for me, so IDK how to deal with it and google's response was to refinish the mags. But their mags were flaking rust, not minor rust like mine.
I will do the following:
1) Use brass brush to remove existing rust with breakthrough oil
2) Coat mags and guns like mentioned by Macsak above
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old article. compares 46 products on corrosion prevention, lubrication, water displacement, smell/odor, compatibility with rubber/plastic/gun finishes
top 3 for corrosion prevention were: WD40 specialist, froglube, hornady one-shot
http://www.dayattherange.com/?page_id=3667
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old article. compares 46 products on corrosion prevention, lubrication, water displacement, smell/odor, compatibility with rubber/plastic/gun finishes
top 3 for corrosion prevention were: WD40 specialist, froglube, hornady one-shot
http://www.dayattherange.com/?page_id=3667
Thanks for posting that link. That's one of the experiments that helped me decide to try Frog Lube. The writer said he wasn't sure if it was much of a cleaner. What he didn't think to mention, apparently, is once a gun is protected with Frog Lube, heated, and sealed, the gun cleans up after use with almost no effort. It really does protect and lubricate without having to reapply as often as most oils that transfer to whatever you might carry it in.
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Clean and oil the inside of the magazines too. Once a year is good enough for most.
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seeing as your rust is on the outside of the mag, do you at least wipe down your mags after a day of hard use, dropping them in the dirt?
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Clean and oil the inside of the magazines too. Once a year is good enough for most.
Yea, but also be careful. Too wet, and you'll run into problems of the mag getting dirty on the inside really fast as it traps blowby gasses and gunk. If you clean once a year, I'd wager that you'd be fine though depending on how often that mag gets lit up.
I've had problems in particular with Breakfree CLP (but I'd imagine others would result similarly) with it gumming up the mag quicker than if you just left it dry. I always treated mag internals like firing pin channels.
For me, its clean, and remove as much oil as possible before reassembly.
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I do use wd40 on my guns like a water hose to wash your car. It carries away the grime.
I finish off with Break Free or Corrosion block if it's going into hibernation.
Don't confuse wd40 and wd40specialist
So you use WD40 specialist to blast off the usual dirt and follow up with Break free
(which I know as Safari CLP)?
I'll try it.
Thanks.
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So you use WD40 specialist to blast off the usual dirt and follow up with Break free
(which I know as Safari CLP)?
I'll try it.
Thanks.
We've all got our own routines and superstitions regarding product use.
I'm pretty much the direct opposite - I use the Breakfree CLP (its made/owned by Safariland) as the solvent to wash away the junk and then use another oil/grease depending on how long shes gonna sleep for.
For guns that are missing the finish on the steel in places or have surface rust, I find the safariland stuff doesnt quite have the corrosion inhibition properties of ballistol. I cant stand the smell of ballistol though, so I use one of their other products, Gunex - Its a bit thicker and doesnt smell like minty vomit.
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If the surface rust is minor, start with 0000 steel wool with Breakfree or similar. Brass brushes can still be a bit harsh when you scrub. If anything start with a nylon brush. Use a light coat of whatever oil you like, I use a blend of Breakfree and Miltech. When you wipe the excess off you should be able to leave a fingerprint in the oil.
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So you use WD40 specialist to blast off the usual dirt and follow up with Break free
(which I know as Safari CLP)?
I'll try it.
Thanks.
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No, I just use the regular WD40 as a cleaner for guns, magazines, whatever.
Then lubricate with CLP or Triflow. If the gun is rarely used, I apply this stuff called corrosion block.
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Add (1) bottle 3-in-1 to (1) qt 10-15w motor oil. (Heavier weights are better for long term storage)
shake qt mix.
Put mix on rag.
Wipe firearms with rag.
Congratulations... You now have enough lubricant to last years.
I've used this mix for almost a decade in training, combat and for personal collection and never had any rust or lubrication problems for my firearms.
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Add (1) bottle 3-in-1 to (1) qt 10-15w motor oil. (Heavier weights are better for long term storage)
shake qt mix.
Put mix on rag.
Wipe firearms with rag.
Congratulations... You now have enough lubricant to last years.
I've used this mix for almost a decade in training, combat and for personal collection and never had any rust or lubrication problems for my firearms.
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Oh yeah, you just reminded me. I also use Mobil1 motor oil on my guns too.
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I wipe down all my firearms and metal mags with either Break Free CLP or a silicone cloth. I have a dehumidifier in my safe. Never had a problem with rust.
I recently acquired a Colt Python that wasn't stored well and was covered with rust patches and pitting. I used Big 45 Frontier metal cleaner to remove all the exterior rust and it didn't affect any of the intact blued finish. After removing the rust wiped down the revolver with a silicone cloth and placed the gun in a silicone impregnated storage sock.
I highly recommend Big 45 Frontier metal cleaner in removing any surface rust. Good luck.
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Big 45 Frontier metal cleaner is the same as Scotch-Brite Stainless Steel Scrubbing Pad that you can find at walmart. Its hard enough to remove the rust, but soft enough not to scratch the metal or bluing. Just put a little gun oil on the scrubbing pad before removing the rust. Don't use sand paper or a brillo pad, they will both scratch the metal or bluing.
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Update
Used a papertowel and breakthrough oil to scrub off the rust and it worked. Papertowel was red/brown and some black.
Then applied oil to mags, slide, receivers and wiped off with papertowel.
Thanks all for the info.
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