2aHawaii
General Topics => General Discussion => Topic started by: mangosteenqueen on April 20, 2018, 12:47:52 PM
-
Currently working on mounting a holosun 503c on a a2 carbine upper with a gooseneck mount, but the problem is cowitnessing the dot to the irons. I’ve used the factory low mount that was provided with the sight but it sat too low, and I’ve even went ahead and bought a YHM 1/4” gas block riser and it’s too high. Are there any manufacturers out there that make thin spacers for the aimpoint micro mounts so I can get the right height? Kinda like the same concept as those accuwashers for muzzle devices.
Or any other solution to raise the dot to even get it to anywhere near a lower 1/3 cowitness.
Not willing to mount the sight directly on top of the carry handle since I’m not used to a chin weld. At the moment I have the red dot mounted onto a YHM 1/4” riser which is mounted to a gooseneck mount, and can’t cowitness because it’s sitting too high.
-
You're doing something like this?
(http://ultimak.com/products/AP10174&QRPinst.jpg)
About how high do you think the goose neck mount ends up relative to a "regular" flat top upper?
I've seen spacers, but I'd have to find the links. I would think finding a different height mount might be easier though.
-
Yeah that’s the gooseneck except I’m using a fakepoint micro size red dot ranger than a full size red dot.
The dot is raised an extra 1/4” inch which is the shortest I’m aware of but still sits too high for any cowitnessing.
(https://imgur.com/a/GD5pOal)
-
My build
Supposedly image below:
(https://i.imgur.com/NBosa4e.jpg)
-
A better solution just getting a flat top rx. Less than hundred frogskins.
Your setup has a riser on a riser. Flex concerns.
But ah. What do I know.
-
Lol yeah, but originally that receiver used to have a 18” heavy barrel which was pretty useless most of the time so I swapped out for a 16” barrel and proceeded to “upgrade” it from there.
I don’t think the flex would be too big of a deal at this moment unless I mount something like a full size aimpoint instead of a micro red dot.
I’ll see how the gun groups when I hit the range this weekend hopefully.
-
The biggest problem with those mounts is maintaining an acceptable zero. They are notorious for getting knocked out of whack and that is from the high-quality goose-neck variants. I am letting you know this from first-hand experience with many sample sizes. There is a reason all of that went the way dinosaur and how modern tech has solved those issues. I know we all go through our own phases of self-discovery and often it is the best learning experience, but that is really throwing good money after bad concepts and it can add up quickly.
-
I heard that was the case too in a Facebook group I’m in, I’ll have to see if tightening it down with a joint pliers or something will help. I got this gooseneck a couple years back somewhere between $10-15 off of eBay and haven’t found the chance to try and see if I could appreciate it until now.
If I can get somewhere around a 2 inch group at 100 yards this weekend then I’ll be happy enough.
-
Do you think it was the weight of the aimpoints (comp m2 if I’m not mistaken) that contributed to the zeroing consistency? Because I’m just running a micro red dot on a 1/4” riser.
Or do you think it’s the overall design even if you tighten it down like there’s no tomorrow?
-
Do you think it was the weight of the aimpoints (comp m2 if I’m not mistaken) that contributed to the zeroing consistency? Because I’m just running a micro red dot on a 1/4” riser.
Or do you think it’s the overall design even if you tighten it down like there’s no tomorrow?
I don't have as much experience as Surf but I was issued those mounts on my first deployment and they flexed no matter how much torque there was on that ONE screw. I ended up with an A4 before we hit the sandbox. Mounted the big ole Aimpoint on the RAS just forward of the receiver and it held zero better than the gooseyneck mount.
try these:
https://www.larue.com/products/larue-tactical-aimpoint-micro-mount-lt660-lt660hk-or-lt661/ (https://www.larue.com/products/larue-tactical-aimpoint-micro-mount-lt660-lt660hk-or-lt661/)
https://www.larue.com/products/larue-tactical-aimpoint-micro-mount-lt751/ (https://www.larue.com/products/larue-tactical-aimpoint-micro-mount-lt751/)
-
Would give the larue lt661 a try if I had $100 to spend. I’m trying to get a lower 1/3 or 1/5 or even a lower 1/10 cowitness.
But first I’ll try the old gooseneck out, otherwise I’ll switch to the tried and true: mounting the red dot directly on top of the carry handle Iike they did with the aimpoint 2000
-
Seemed to hold zero, but I wasn’t bumping it around like someone in a rifleman class would.
I think I need a H2 buffer because the AR was over gassed and I had several cases of stovepiping.
-
Seemed to hold zero, but I wasn’t bumping it around like someone in a rifleman class would.
I think I need a H2 buffer because the AR was over gassed and I had several cases of stovepiping.
Darn. I was probably there when you were and I had a H2 buffet in my bag, among other buffers and stuff. I don’t really mess with those anymore, but at one point I had been trying to tune the gun for certain ammo. I shoot PMC Bronze and UMC .223 often these days, but those are pretty weak has wise when compared to XM193, which I used to shoot more of.
What made you connect overgassing with the stovepiping?
What ammo where you shooting? How many rounds with the BCG that you’re currently using?
-
I used a gooseneck setup like yours for an army competition. I screwed it on, lollipopped the dot, and shot it under 75 yards. Worked well for what I needed. My buddy kept it on for other stages out to 300 yards and I was amazed how accurate he shot. It didn't get knocked around too much so I don't know how well it holds zero.
Another option is to install a railed forend but that would be costly. Just use what you got with the high mount for now, should shoot accurately enough for recreational purposes until you can buy a proper ar15 upper or foreend rail. Or shoot irons. If you can shoot good with irons, you'll shoot great with a scope.
You don't really need a specific cowitness. As long as you can put the dot on the target you're good.
-
I don't recommend mounting the scope directly to the carry handle. Its too high and is awkward to shoot.
-
I was also gonna recommend just going with a flat top receiver, but seems like the OP is really trying to keep costs down. If he’s got is “ok enough” for him, that’s cool. I do think that the money will be well spent on some “modern updates”.
I have two Aimpoint micros and a CompM4s with Larue mounts. I really like them. I just got their low mount to try one of the micros on an AK. There are plenty of quality mounts, but I really do like the Larues.
Putting a freefloat handguard might be ok to try. Though the cost for that might be more than for a new upper receiver. I like the DD Omega rails that I can install myself without changing the barrel nut. I haven’t tried mounting an optic to the rail since I like the position of the optic mounted in the upper receiver section of picatinny. However, your current setup already has the optic pretty far forward, so might work for you. That and you have to really watch the quality of the rail when mounting optics on them.
-
Darn. I was probably there when you were and I had a H2 buffet in my bag, among other buffers and stuff. I don’t really mess with those anymore, but at one point I had been trying to tune the gun for certain ammo. I shoot PMC Bronze and UMC .223 often these days, but those are pretty weak has wise when compared to XM193, which I used to shoot more of.
What made you connect overgassing with the stovepiping?
What ammo where you shooting? How many rounds with the BCG that you’re currently using?
Nah dude, I was shooting at my farm. It’s mostly the fact that the brass was ejecting towards the 1:30 angle and I was shooting a mix of American Eagle 55 grain and PMC bronze.
Used a DSA barrel with a PSA front sight/gas block, and a old “Besse” bcg that’s original to the receiver and doesn’t have anywhere near 1000 rounds through it.
-
I don't recommend mounting the scope directly to the carry handle. Its too high and is awkward to shoot.
I mentioned earlier in the post that the A2 receiver used to have a 18” heavy barrel and I didn’t have much use for it, so I swapped out for a 16” government profile barrel and proceeded to do upgrades from there.
Yeah mounting directly on top of the carry handle is pretty awkward which is what I’m trying to avoid.
-
I was also gonna recommend just going with a flat top receiver, but seems like the OP is really trying to keep costs down. If he’s got is “ok enough” for him, that’s cool. I do think that the money will be well spent on some “modern updates”.
I have two Aimpoint micros and a CompM4s with Larue mounts. I really like them. I just got their low mount to try one of the micros on an AK. There are plenty of quality mounts, but I really do like the Larues.
Putting a freefloat handguard might be ok to try. Though the cost for that might be more than for a new upper receiver. I like the DD Omega rails that I can install myself without changing the barrel nut. I haven’t tried mounting an optic to the rail since I like the position of the optic mounted in the upper receiver section of picatinny. However, your current setup already has the optic pretty far forward, so might work for you. That and you have to really watch the quality of the rail when mounting optics on them.
I would’ve went with the Israeli m4 look with bcm and magpul furniture and whatever as you may have seen in the picture I supposedly posted earlier, except I don’t have a meprolight m21 and it’s own iconic gooseneck because of budget
-
Nah dude, I was shooting at my farm. It’s mostly the fact that the brass was ejecting towards the 1:30 angle and I was shooting a mix of American Eagle 55 grain and PMC bronze.
Used a DSA barrel with a PSA front sight/gas block, and a old “Besse” bcg that’s original to the receiver and doesn’t have anywhere near 1000 rounds through it.
Cool. Got it on the ejection angle. I was caught up with that when I first got my AR. I don’t really pay attention do it much nowadays.
I am just curious as the 1:30 ejection and stovepiping. I would typically see malfunctioning when I have a too strong buffer and weak ammo. What is usually see is a spent case and live round both in the action. Sometimes the spent casing is sticking out of the ejection port. Anyways, for my guns, I know that that is usually because of the weak ammo. That said, those can also be signs of problems with extractor and ejector, which is why I asked how many rounds for the BCG. Your BCG sounds pretty new.
-
I should’ve gotten a picture of the malfunction, if I remember correctly I did have a live round in the chamber, a stovepipe, and almost a double feed all at the same time. I was using pmags for the record.
I’ll start with a H2 buffer before I mess with the bcg parts.
-
I should’ve gotten a picture of the malfunction, if I remember correctly I did have a live round in the chamber, a stovepipe, and almost a double feed all at the same time. I was using pmags for the record.
I’ll start with a H2 buffer before I mess with the bcg parts.
That sounds like what I get when I have weak ammo. Looks like a double feed with a live round and spent casing. I assumed what was happening was that the ammo wasn’t strong enough to get the bolt far enough back for the casing to clear the ejection port. That was when I had an H2 in the gun and shooting weaker ammo. I’ve had the H in there since. Still have the other buffers in my rifle bag, but prob haven’t touched it in years.
Sounds like a good plan. Eliminate variables one by one.
-
Yeah I don’t suppose there are A2 front sight/gas blocks that are adjustable. I wouldn’t want to mess with another A2 sight anyway because it was a pain in the ass getting it onto the barrel.
I can always punch out the pin in the h2 buffer and switch out one of the tungesten weights for a steel buffer weight I have lying around and turn it into a H buffer from there.
Now that i think about it I did have a Ar out today that had a h2 buffer, could’ve swapped the lowers and see if it fixed the issue. Damn.
-
Quick update:
Ordered and installed a H2 buffer and no malfunctions, but it's still overgassed ejecting at around 2:00, rather than around 1:00 in my previous range trip.
Perhaps a H3 will do?
Zero on the gooseneck still holding, highly doubt it'll retain zero if I remove it and reinstall.
-
Quick update:
Ordered and installed a H2 buffer and no malfunctions, but it's still overgassed ejecting at around 2:00, rather than around 1:00 in my previous range trip.
Perhaps a H3 will do?
Zero on the gooseneck still holding, highly doubt it'll retain zero if I remove it and reinstall.
I would say as long as it’s funcitoning well on your selected and range of ammo, all good. I wouldn’t worry about the 2 o’clock ejection. Many of my guns will do that with the full pressure 5.56 ammo. Some will eject to the 3-4:30 position as well.
If you’re really set on “tuning” the ejection pattern, another option to try are Springco springs. Prob cheaper than the heavier buffers.
-
I'll get working on those springs at some point. Quite busy with college finals coming up. But it seems that the malfunctions have been mostly solved with the heavier buffer, I say "mostly" because I only put a mags worth of ammo downrange today in that particular franken-AR (It used to stovepipe once or a few times per mag in my first outing)