2aHawaii
General Topics => General Discussion => Topic started by: drck1000 on November 14, 2018, 11:53:08 PM
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Came across an older S&W revolver with a stuck cylinder. The cylinder rotates freely when cocking the hammer, but can’t get the cylinder to budge/pivot. Read where a common fix is to tighten the thread on the ejector rod. Tried that but couldn’t get the thing to budge either. May try again this weekend when I have a bit more time. It was tough to get a firm grip on the knurled section on the ejector rod. One S&W forum has a method to tightening the thread on the ejector rod with the cylinder in place (aligned with barrel), but I didn’t get to try that.
There was another possible fix that needs a 0.004 feeler gauge, but some use a utility knife blade in between the locking bolt and the ejector rod.
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The information you have on tightening the ejector rod and or depressing the locking bolt with a knife blade or dental pick is correct. In the 50s or 60s the ejector rod was changed from right hand thread to left hand thread.
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The information you have on tightening the ejector rod and or depressing the locking bolt with a knife blade or dental pick is correct. In the 50s or 60s the ejector rod was changed from right hand thread to left hand thread.
Awesome! Thank you for the feedback! I'll give it another try this weekend. When I was inspecting the gun and came across the stuck cylinder, I thought to myself, "damn, would be nice to have the revolver experts at 2a here to assist". ;D
I verified that all cylinders were not loaded before trying different things. I read about many instances where the cylinder locked up with live rounds still in the cylinder.
Not sure the age of this particular revolver, but if I had to guess, it would be in 60s+.
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Awesome! Thank you for the feedback! I'll give it another try this weekend. When I was inspecting the gun and came across the stuck cylinder, I thought to myself, "damn, would be nice to have the revolver experts at 2a here to assist". ;D
I verified that all cylinders were not loaded before trying different things. I read about many instances where the cylinder locked up with live rounds still in the cylinder.
Not sure the age of this particular revolver, but if I had to guess, it would be in 60s+.
I think you need a REAL inspector to inspect it for you. :rofl:
Speaking of cylinder locking up with live rounds in it:
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=Cv9gkZsIvCo
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1) I think you need a REAL inspector to inspect it for you. :rofl:
2) Speaking of cylinder locking up with live rounds in it:
1) We will need to do a revolver day again. I can hopefully contribute more to the mix this time around. :thumbsup:
2) :o
When I was RSO at Schofield, a guy ended up with a stuck cylinder, but that was because he somehow was able to get a .357 Mag round to rotate into position in a .38 SPL handgun. Dunno how he did it. The OIC looked at it and it seemed like the head of the .357 Mag was getting caught up on the barrel. That was what the OIC and shooter came up with. I sort of was just watching. Anyways, the proposed fix was to get a file and trim the bullet head to free up the cylinder, but no one had such a file on the range. He was still there when my shift ended, so not sure what ended up happening.
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Was able to get the cylinder open. Not really sure what I did to get it open. I tried prying the locking bolt/pin with a utility knife blade and eventually a screwdriver that was in the box with the gun. Applied lube to the locking bolt and let it sit. Didn’t move, so applied lube to the cylinder release. After some workIng the release, the cylinder opened.
I noticed that locking bolt move freely on a S&W Model 28 revolver. He locking pin moves out past the frame in that gun. So think some things were frozen in the Model 57 revolver. Will eventually get it to a Smith for a full checking. But happy that I can get the cylinder open.
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Was able to get the cylinder open. Not really sure what I did to get it open. I tried prying the locking bolt/pin with a utility knife blade and eventually a screwdriver that was in the box with the gun. Applied lube to the locking bolt and let it sit. Didn’t move, so applied lube to the cylinder release. After some workIng the release, the cylinder opened.
I noticed that locking bolt move freely on a S&W Model 28 revolver. He locking pin moves out past the frame in that gun. So think some things were frozen in the Model 57 revolver. Will eventually get it to a Smith for a full checking. But happy that I can get the cylinder open.
Glad to hear you got it open without buggering it up. WHen you said you tried prying it open with a screwdriver I sort of cringed. :shake:
When I got my father’s HS the trigger would not reset after firing. I could reset it by pushing it forward with my finger. I just thought it was a weak or broken spring. It took me literally months to figure out the problem and fix it. Turns out there was just a bunch of old dried oil/gunk that was not allowing the trigger to move freely.
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Glad to hear you got it open without buggering it up. WHen you said you tried prying it open with a screwdriver I sort of cringed. :shake:
When I got my father’s HS the trigger would not reset after firing. I could reset it by pushing it forward with my finger. I just thought it was a weak or broken spring. It took me literally months to figure out the problem and fix it. Turns out there was just a bunch of old dried oil/gunk that was not allowing the trigger to move freely.
Tried getting the utility blade in between the locking bolt and the ejector rod, but wasn't really sure where the utility blade was supposed to go. . . ??? [cue mac. . . ;D ]
Other threads on the topic and another 2a member mentioned using a pick or a thin flathead screwdriver. The utility blade seemed to flex quite a bit, so maybe something more stout was warranted. The lighting where I was working on the gun wasn't great (I wasn't at home) and my vision for smaller detail stuff like that isn't as good as it used to be. Ended up trying out a pair of my dad's reading glasses and that helped. :-[
With the screwdriver, I was sort of prying, but wasn't horsing it. I was actually just trying to get the locking bolt to move. Sucker wasn't going anywhere. So I figured try to lube other points, so tried the cylinder release. I'm guessing it was either that or the lube took time to work into another area.
Will still have it checked out anyways. Noticed that the locking bolt moves freely on the Model 28, so something on the Model 57 is gummed up somewhere.
Did more reading up on the Model 57 and bit of history and evolution of the .41 Mag. Seems like an attempt at a "tweener" between .357 Mag and .44 Mag, sort of like the .40 S&W. I have some .41 Mag ammo, but not sure how much I'll shoot it. I'll have to see what availability on ammo is locally.
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Throw it on the ground to loosen it up. If that doesn't work, throw it in the trash where revolvers belong. SHOTS FIREEEDDDDD
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Throw it on the ground to loosen it up. If that doesn't work, throw it in the trash where revolvers belong. SHOTS FIREEEDDDDD
Dems is fightin’ words!!! :o
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Throw it on the ground to loosen it up. If that doesn't work, throw it in the trash where revolvers belong. SHOTS FIREEEDDDDD
I came across a video where the "smith" solved the problem by hitting the cylinder with a hammer. Granted it was one of those nylon (non-marring) hammers. ;D
Dems is fightin’ words!!! :o
I smell a challenge!!!