2aHawaii
General Topics => General Discussion => Topic started by: Rocky on August 04, 2023, 09:33:59 AM
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After 15 yrs, little O-rings in bathroom faucet cartridges failing and faucet leaking.
Set screws to remove handles to replace little o-ring frozen in handle.
Tried tri-flow, calcium/lime remover and even contemplated pin point torching before deciding to just replace faucets.
Local hardware had crap and I really hated to drive all the way into town to just go to Lowes or HD (3 hrs/65 miles) so I ordered on line from Lowes.
Ordered 12:43 pm, delivered 4:44 pm the next day.
:thumbsup:
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If you can find old faucets in good working order hang on to them. Today's stuff is meant to be thrown away after a couple years.
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There must be a dozen ways to remove rusted, broken, stripped and just generally uncooperative screws, nut and bolts.
I just removed a seized screw from a steel sliding screen door yesterday using a 4-piece kit of screw removal drilling bits. The bits have a v-shaped "blade" that basically drills into the screw head until it's gone. Since I was chopping the door rails to a smaller width, I didn't have to bother removing the screw shaft.
I also have a set of reverse-threaded bits that bite into a screw head when unscrewing it, for those stripped ones.
Most times, if a screw is stripped, I take a Dremel cutting wheel and make a slot as deep as i can in the screw and use a slotted screw driver on it. Works great.
Then there's the vice grip method if you have the angle and room to get a grip on the screw head. Not a good method for counter-sunk screws, though.
Heat is another option, depending on the materials involved. A torch used to heat a steel bolt in a steal part can cause the metals to expand then contract, allowing enough movement to break them free. I wouldn't suggest using a torch on aluminum or other soft material.
WD40 makes some very good rust removal products. There's one super penetrating formula I've had luck with, and the original does a good job, too. You do have to give it time to work, and maybe apply multiple times, but eventually the spray usually penetrates enough rust to loosen it.
One of the best things for removing corrosion is vinegar. I had 2 quarters this week that were wedged in the gap of a window screen for a decade that were unrecognizable. I soaked them in vinegar for a few hours, and 80% of the corrosion was gone. A little polishing with a scrub pad and brush, and both are nice and shiny.
Unfortunately, by trying to defeat the rust, you usually wind up stripping or breaking screws, making it even harder to remove. You then wind up needing a combination of remedies.
If you don't have the time, tools, or patience, sometimes an "upgrade" is the best option. Otherwise, you might spend money on the tools and sprays, only to inadvertently damage the faucet and having to get a replacement anyway.
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I just removed a seized screw from a steel sliding screen door yesterday using a 4-piece kit of screw removal drilling bits. The bits have a v-shaped "blade" that basically drills into the screw head until it's gone.
Tried drilling out screw, hardened SS
I also have a set of reverse-threaded bits that bite into a screw head when unscrewing it, for those stripped ones.
Tried eazy-out, it snapped
Most times, if a screw is stripped, I take a Dremel cutting wheel and make a slot as deep as i can in the screw and use a slotted screw driver on it.
Allen head screw recessed but I did twist an allen wrench out of shape !
Then there's the vice grip method if you have the angle and room to get a grip on the screw head. Not a good method for counter-sunk screws, though.
Allen head screw recessed
Heat is another option, depending on the materials involved. A torch used to heat a steel bolt in a steal part can cause the metals to expand then contract, allowing enough movement to break them free. I wouldn't suggest using a torch on aluminum or other soft material.
"contemplated pin point torching" but that would have ruined the faucet finish or melted the unknown cartridge type which would then require complete replacement
WD40 makes some very good rust removal products. There's one super penetrating formula I've had luck with, and the original does a good job, too. You do have to give it time to work, and maybe apply multiple times, but eventually the spray usually penetrates enough rust to loosen it.
This was not necessarily all corrosion and WD-40 is pretty much just diesel fuel. This probably was more like calcium/lime build up but I did try penetrating oils like PB and Liquid Wrench and even Tri flow.
One of the best things for removing corrosion is vinegar.
I did try to remove with vinegar and Lime-away
If you don't have the time, tools, or patience, sometimes an "upgrade" is the best option. Otherwise, you might spend money on the tools and sprays, only to inadvertently damage the faucet and having to get a replacement anyway.
I had all three and total replacement was still faster, easier. IF I had gotten the handles off and they accepted the cheaper cartridges, that would have been $80 MINIMUM, paid $200 for a pair of new faucets, spouts and drains.
They were 15 years old so I guess I should appreciate thy lasted that long ! :thumbsup:
Any who, Rockette likes the new ones, al is G. :love:
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[If you don't have the time, tools, or patience, sometimes an "upgrade" is the best option.
Otherwise, you might spend money on the tools and sprays, only to inadvertently damage
the faucet and having to get a replacement anyway.]
I had all three and total replacement was still faster, easier. IF I had gotten the handles off and they accepted the cheaper cartridges, that would have been $80 MINIMUM, paid $200 for a pair of new faucets, spouts and drains.
They were 15 years old so I guess I should appreciate thy lasted that long ! :thumbsup:
Any who, Rockette likes the new ones, al is G. :love:
It's amazing how much plumbing fixtures can be.
i was looking for 14" offset toilets. The standard today is 12" from finished wall to the center of the floor flange. I had to buy 12", since it was hard finding a 14" offset toilet locally. Online, the low end price for one was $400, most running $750 or way more! No difference between that toilet and the $150 12" offset version other than the offset.
All 3 of my bathrooms have a 14" offset, so that's triple the "premium".
I can live with the gap between the wall and toilet. :thumbsup:
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Fergussons often has those hard to find plumbing parts in case you ever need something like that again.
It sounded like the screw might have seized. I was surprised to learn that stainless steel on stainless steel has this ability to sometimes seize together almost as if it had been welded
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Fergussons often has those hard to find plumbing parts in case you ever need something like that again.
It sounded like the screw might have seized. I was surprised to learn that stainless steel on stainless steel has this ability to sometimes seize together almost as if it had been welded
SS on Brass