2aHawaii
General Topics => General Discussion => Topic started by: Rocky on February 01, 2024, 10:58:58 AM
-
Is it cheaper (and acceptable) to cut slide rather than buy new ?
Considering red dot (latest Holosun, Tridge) on my G19 Gen3 but need slide/cut slide
-
Interested in this as well.
I have either a stock Gen 5 G19 slide, or a precut Noveske slide with cuts for a Holosun 407/507 (can it be modified?), that needs to be cut for a Holosun EPS Carry.
If possible, I would like to see previously completed work. I don't want my "muffin top" fat rolls to get cutup from jagged edges when I sit down lol
EDIT: I bought that stupid optic when Holosun was having Production Possibility Frontier issues lol. After like a year of waiting, it shows up. Still sitting on my desk, NIB. I can't practice my 1-hand "rack-tap reload" using my navel as a fulcrum without an optic.
-
cheaper to cut existing
-
Is it cheaper (and acceptable) to cut slide rather than buy new ?
Considering red dot (latest Holosun, Tridge) on my G19 Gen3 but need slide/cut slide
Cheaper? Depends. . . I've done both recently. My personal preference is cut slide.
If "buy new" do you mean MOS model? Or say aftermarket slide?
For MOS, also depends on the RDS you want. MOS offers ability to change later, but the mounting system/type varies by RDS model. Can to into a whole thread on this, as well as depends on whose feedback you trust, and intended purpose. I'm a$$uming your intended use is SD, not plinking and/or competition.
I have one MOS with Acro. G17s with cuts specific to Holosun EPS and Trijicon RCR, and G43x for Holosun EPS. Can also typically get the RDS lower with cut slides.
Then there are my Salients, which you've shot, but that's a whole other story. . . :geekdanc:
-
Those "muffin top" fat rolls" turn your IWB into a Level II holster ! :rofl: :rofl: :rofl:
I just hate when I train and get "pinched" between gun and holster when re-holstering. :shake:
-
Cheaper? Depends. . . I've done both recently. My personal preference is cut slide.
. . :geekdanc:
Where idd you get your slide cut ?
Optics preference ?
feedback trusted, intended purpose HD, SD, Main squeeze.
-
I would say depends on what optic you are going to use as well. LIke DRCK mentioned certain optics ready slides come with a certain footprint. So if the optic you want to use doesn't fit this, then you will need an optics plate. This would cause your RDS to sit slightly higher and it's 1 more thing to have to install/buy.
IMO, I rather send my slide out for milling to the footprint that I need. Cause if you buy a optics ready slide, besides the above, now you will have an extra part. Some people like to keep spare parts, but is 1 really necessary for a slide? How often do you see a slide needing to be replaced? You could also always sell the OG slide.
-
Interested in this as well.
I have either a stock Gen 5 G19 slide, or a precut Noveske slide with cuts for a Holosun 407/507 (can it be modified?), that needs to be cut for a Holosun EPS Carry.
If possible, I would like to see previously completed work. I don't want my "muffin top" fat rolls to get cutup from jagged edges when I sit down lol
EDIT: I bought that stupid optic when Holosun was having Production Possibility Frontier issues lol. After like a year of waiting, it shows up. Still sitting on my desk, NIB. I can't practice my 1-hand "rack-tap reload" using my navel as a fulcrum without an optic.
I'm familiar with TAP-ROLL-RACK, and TAP-RACK-BANG. I've never heard of RACK-TAP-RELOAD.
Seems like TAP-RACK makes more sense that RACK-TAP, since most malfunctions are the result of magazine problems. Reseating the mag before racking the slide would remedy the mag problem. "Tapping" the mag after you rack the slide would not fix a mag issue, so the "tap" would be ineffective.
And if you need to reload, chances are the slide is locked back. That's a clue. If it failed to lock back then you get a "click" instead of "bang".
That's not a firearm malfunction. That's just mistaking an empty mag for something else. Operator error, basically.
If the mag is bad and won't feed, the tap will not fix it, so a tactical reload may be needed to swap in a working mag.
:shaka:
-
I think he was referring to one or the other or a combination of one handed drills. :thumbsup:
-
I think he was referring to one or the other or a combination of one handed drills. :thumbsup:
I ignored the navel part.
I gave my navel up for lint.
:geekdanc: :thumbsup: :rofl:
-
I ignored the navel part.
I gave my navel up for lint.
:geekdanc: :thumbsup: :rofl:
took me a second :P
-
Where idd you get your slide cut ?
Optics preference ?
feedback trusted, intended purpose HD, SD, Main squeeze.
Via DCT. I'd have to dig up the company, but I have 3 slides done by them. I also have one from C&H.
Current preferences are RCR and Holosun EPS, or other enclosed emitters. But still have RMR on a couple of guns. I really like the Acro, but that sucker is a little bulky.
-
I just hate when I train and get "pinched" between gun and holster when re-holstering. :shake:
Too much McDonalds breakfast causing deeper concealment and extra retention.
I'm familiar with TAP-ROLL-RACK, and TAP-RACK-BANG. I've never heard of RACK-TAP-RELOAD.
Seems like TAP-RACK makes more sense that RACK-TAP, since most malfunctions are the result of magazine problems. Reseating the mag before racking the slide would remedy the mag problem. "Tapping" the mag after you rack the slide would not fix a mag issue, so the "tap" would be ineffective.
And if you need to reload, chances are the slide is locked back. That's a clue. If it failed to lock back then you get a "click" instead of "bang".
That's not a firearm malfunction. That's just mistaking an empty mag for something else. Operator error, basically.
If the mag is bad and won't feed, the tap will not fix it, so a tactical reload may be needed to swap in a working mag.
:shaka:
No hyphen between "tap" and "reload". I always tap my mags when they're inserted, but then again, I've never been in a firefight. It's kinda funny because it makes people who aren't comfortable arounds guns pretty nervous, you know, 'banging' around a loaded gun even if your finger is off the trigger and it's pointed in a safe direction.
Most of my previous post was satire anyway. I am, however, serious about getting one of my slides cut for the EPS Carry even if I'm not practicing "navel reloads"
-
Cutting a slide, no nitrite….starts at 145 around. I assume that excludes shipping to/from
https://jagerwerks.com/vortex-venom-for-glock/
A complete PSA OR slide w/out barrel is 165 …..and I think cheaper during sales.
For the extra $20 & shipping (sometimes free), I’d get the PSA….and then sell my old slide. A complete slide on EBay starts at about 100-120
So if you buy a new slide and sell your old slide it might only cost you like $40 out of pocket but you would have a psa slide and parts….not glock
I’m in the same boat.
I’m thinking of getting this:
https://palmettostatearmory.com/psa-dagger-complete-rmr-slide-assembly-with-non-threaded-barrel-holosun-hs507c-x2-reflex-sight-sniper-green.html
Then Swapping all the internal parts of the Glock slide with the PSA slide and then selling the Glock slide
The red dot itself is about $300….so it’s like 80 for an OR slide. If I can get like 140 for the old slide…. I got a 300 RD for 240 + s/h….and a “free” upgrade to an OR slide…..albeit it is a PSA slide not glock.
If this is a “needs to be a 1000% reliable home defense gun”, i would just buy an OEM OR glock slide and sell the old slide. Because I’m not sure if milling/lightening a non OR glock slide affects reliability. I’m assuming the weight of an OEM OR slide will be optimized to run reliably with a range of different optic weights.
I don’t own any pistols with optics so it’s likely I’m talking out of my okole
I’ve been so close to ordering that slide/optic…….but can’t justify $260 for a $300 optic and PSA slide “upgrade” (after selling the glock slide) since I haven’t gone to the pistol range in years. Besides I try to avoid electonics…..
-
if you want your slide nitrided after the cut, not too many places do that. JagerWerks (https://jagerwerks.com/glock/slide-milling/optic-cuts/), and I think Maple Leaf (https://www.mapleleaffirearms.com/optic-cuts/optic-cuts-for-glock/all-standard-large-frame-models/). if you're okay with bare metal on the cut surfaces, or cerakote, then many more slide machine shops are available.
I've used Jagerwerks, Nameless Arms (https://www.namelessarms.com/), both with good results, and maybe some others, can't remember shit. But nowadays, if I can buy a new slide with the configuration I want, the finish I want at a decent price, I prefer that option.
If you send JagerWerks your suppressor-height iron sights (e.g. Trijicon GL201-C-600649) and your optic, along with your barrel & slide, they'll mount and zero them in free-of-charge. That was nice. Mine were spot-on right-out-of-the-box (YMMV). On my JagerWerks-done slide, their nitrided finish is beautiful. It was a Lone Wolf bare stainless 10mm G20 slide. I also had them RMR-cut a LWD 10mm G20L slide. JagerWerks, Maple Leaf, and Nameless do the little RMR recoil lugs in their RMR cut. Some vendors don't, too much humbug.
take a look at TR Enabling (https://www.tr-enabling.com/category-s/1962.htm) slides, although the G19 Gen3 RMR is out-of-stock at this time, hard to beat the $130 price.
I think it depends on whether the slide you want is commonly available e.g. G19 Gen3, or something less common. The G19 Gen 3 being a commodity nowadays, many vendors offer G19 slides with optic cuts at great prices.
-
Too much McDonalds breakfast causing deeper concealment and extra retention.
No hyphen between "tap" and "reload". I always tap my mags when they're inserted, but then again, I've never been in a firefight. It's kinda funny because it makes people who aren't comfortable arounds guns pretty nervous, you know, 'banging' around a loaded gun even if your finger is off the trigger and it's pointed in a safe direction.
Most of my previous post was satire anyway. I am, however, serious about getting one of my slides cut for the EPS Carry even if I'm not practicing "navel reloads"
Not to drag this further off topic, but you should take a defensive or tactical handgun class.
YouTube videos and self-help only get one so far. The #1 hardest section at the Front Sight defensive handgun course was malfunction clearing. You had to start with an intentionally set-up malfunction, like a stove pipe or double feed. Then you had to complete the corrective steps in order and correctly to get credit. When someone is watching and you're thinking "Which procedure was for this malfunction?", it's a little stressful. I can imagine the stress if that happend under real world conditions.
There's usually more than one way to skin a cat, but we pay money for the experts to teach us the best way.
:stopjack:
-
1) if you want your slide nitrided after the cut, not too many places do that. JagerWerks (https://jagerwerks.com/glock/slide-milling/optic-cuts/), and I think Maple Leaf (https://www.mapleleaffirearms.com/optic-cuts/optic-cuts-for-glock/all-standard-large-frame-models/). if you're okay with bare metal on the cut surfaces, or cerakote, then many more slide machine shops are available.
I've used Jagerwerks, Nameless Arms (https://www.namelessarms.com/), both with good results, and maybe some others, can't remember shit. But nowadays, if I can buy a new slide with the configuration I want, the finish I want at a decent price, I prefer that option.
2) If you send JagerWerks your suppressor-height iron sights (e.g. Trijicon GL201-C-600649) and your optic, along with your barrel & slide, they'll mount and zero them in free-of-charge. That was nice. Mine were spot-on right-out-of-the-box (YMMV). On my JagerWerks-done slide, their nitrided finish is beautiful. It was a Lone Wolf bare stainless 10mm G20 slide. I also had them RMR-cut a LWD 10mm G20L slide. JagerWerks, Maple Leaf, and Nameless do the little RMR recoil lugs in their RMR cut. Some vendors don't, too much humbug.
take a look at TR Enabling (https://www.tr-enabling.com/category-s/1962.htm) slides, although the G19 Gen3 RMR is out-of-stock at this time, hard to beat the $130 price.
I think it depends on whether the slide you want is commonly available e.g. G19 Gen3, or something less common. The G19 Gen 3 being a commodity nowadays, many vendors offer G19 slides with optic cuts at great prices.
1) Great point. I've done both. Cerakote is "durable enough", but often not as durable as the original gun finish. I don't mind slides showing wear, but I know many that do "care more" than my "care less" approach.
2) Didn't know folks did that. I've had my slides returned without sights, since I usually planned to install aftermarket sights myself. I had one gun from Boresight Solutions that included aftermarket sight and RDS, and both were spot on at my preferred zero.
-
I noticed that most if not all of the cut slides "for sale" here are for Trijicon RMR.
I like Tridge but 1 yr battery life and removal of RMR from gun to replace battery is kinda no go for me.
Is that why there's more of them available ?
So pretty much decided looking for Gen3 G19, and Gen4 G17 to take or with a Holosun HS507C-X2
Thoughts ?
:shaka:
-
I noticed that most if not all of the cut slides "for sale" here are for Trijicon RMR.
I like Tridge but 1 yr battery life and removal of RMR from gun to replace battery is kinda no go for me.
Is that why there's more of them available ?
So pretty much decided looking for Gen3 G19, and Gen4 G17 to take or with a Holosun HS507C-X2
Thoughts ?
:shaka:
This is 1 major reason i never went with trij, gotta remove the rds to change batt. I just changed my holosum batt b4 my ccw qual yesterday.
I mean if u know where ur dot sits compared to ur irons, u can get close enuff until u can rezero.
Plus u buy 2 for 1 with holosun.
Sent from my SM-G991U using Tapatalk
-
Plus u buy 2 for 1 with holosun. ? :wacko:
-
THe cost of 1 Trijicon is the same as buying 2 Holosuns.
Same when I decided to go with the Streamlight TLR1. I can get 2 of them for the price of 1 Surefire X300. But on the M45, I had to go X300 to make matchy matchy with MEU/Recon.
-
I noticed that most if not all of the cut slides "for sale" here are for Trijicon RMR.
I like Tridge but 1 yr battery life and removal of RMR from gun to replace battery is kinda no go for me.
Is that why there's more of them available ?
So pretty much decided looking for Gen3 G19, and Gen4 G17 to take or with a Holosun HS507C-X2
Thoughts ?
:shaka:
There are a number of Holosun RDS that have same footprint as the RMR. The battery life hasn't been a big deal, at least for me. I have occasionally noticed a slight shift when replacing, but easily adjusted.
I currently shoot the RDS that have side loading batteries. SROs share same/similar footprint and have pretty good reputation, though mixed depending where you look.
Sounds and seems from our limited conversation that you're looking to go a more budget route.
-
I noticed that most if not all of the cut slides "for sale" here are for Trijicon RMR.
I like Tridge but 1 yr battery life and removal of RMR from gun to replace battery is kinda no go for me.
Is that why there's more of them available ?
So pretty much decided looking for Gen3 G19, and Gen4 G17 to take or with a Holosun HS507C-X2
Thoughts ?
:shaka:
I have the 507C on my gen5 19 and 47 (same size as a 17). I like it. just changed the battery on the 19. was easy once I figured out you have to pry the tray out with the Holosun tool. I didn't get quite the hours advertised per battery life, but might be a cheap or old battery. I don't think batteries last as advertised in general anyways
-
Sounds and seems from our limited conversation that you're looking to go a more budget route.
I prefer to cry only once.
I see Lone wolf would cut my slide for $99 and if I send the RMR, they will mount
Considering the Holosun 507C
-
I prefer to cry only once.
I see Lone wolf would cut my slide for $99 and if I send the RMR, they will mount
Considering the Holosun 507C
last time I checked, LWD RMR cut doesn't provide the recoil posts at the front of the RMR cut. That was the main reason I sent out my LWD slides out for RMR cut to someone else. LWD does have a nitride finish option, though.
maybe by now, they changed, after all, it's just CNC programming.