I just finished up 700 rds of 223, got tired of loading rifle so switched to pistol. It’s so much easier loading pistol, no neck to look down each charge and I love how a 3/4 fill in the hopper can go along way at 5.3 gn’s lol. I did about 400 rds of 300 blk before the 223s. Actually just wanted to get rid of my 223bulkbullets stash that was collecting dust.

My current I’m bored project. Gonna try crank out 2k

What are you currently loading? Let’s see your fun stay at home projects. Currently loading 9x19 parabellum! Resurrecting this old hobby, luckily stocked up with powders, bullets, brass and primers from 2017!

If you're interested, I have a NIB Thumler model B, 15# capacity.  Will throw in 5 new replacement belts.  $200 - PM if interested.

https://www.amazon.com/Heavy-Duty-Rotary-Tumbler-Capacity/dp/B000BUXY0W/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1492324678&sr=8-1&keywords=thumler+model+b

This is what I use, and it works great. However the plastic belt will go in a few months, no biggie, replacements a few bucks. If you want new/shiny looking brass this is the way to go.

They're labeled pulldowns but don't see any marks. The Sportsman's Guide ad says they're brand new, never loaded. 18 cents each plus free shipping. Can't beat that.

http://www.sportsmansguide.com/product/index/500-count-of-308-fmj-147-grain-bullets?a=1925637

Not a bad price for 500. Overall, after looking at most of them can you see any tooling marks or indication they were seated? From my understanding if they were sold as pulldowns then they were once installed, guessing mil surplus. If not, it would have been landed otherwise. Might just stick to the non canneleurs, but the price is so tempting.   

You should do this on Saturday. zippz is hosting.

https://www.meetup.com/HawaiiGGG/events/237335274/

Unfortunately, won't be free this Saturday. 

I have not tried Lil Gun yet. When I was developing loads for my 300 BLK there was no Lil Gun to be had on the island. Now that Lil Gun is available I really have no thoughts on trying something different since my fav load shoots the lights out.

I tried all the Sierra bullets in the 125gr-135gr range. Tried some Hornady 125gr and Barnes in the same range. Had the best luck with the Sierra 125gr MK until I found the Speers. BTW, the Speer bullet makes for a funky looking round that is so short you wouldn't think it would feed reliably. But it has been 100% reliable over hundreds of rounds.

My reloading process puts the brass through sizing then cleaning then polishing. After that I check the length and gauge each case. Then I trim and file if necessary. I don't load a case until it is perfect. That way after I load the case then when I put the cartridge through the gauge it passes 100% of the time. I know it might be a little extra work but I prefer not to tear apart cartridges unless necessary.

With that said recently I made 50 rounds of .38 SPL which is a new load I was sure would work well. It didn't. I had to take apart 49 of them. I usually never make more than 10 or 20 of a new load. DUMB.

Dave, sounds about right, and what works for you may not work for others barrels. However, if it ain't broke then don't fix it! especially if its operating lights out.  I haven't tried many powders being new to rifle cartridges, but Lil'G seems to be working great.

The Sierra 110 gr #2110s HP's cycled fine, nothing much to say about these, but I struggled to hit the red, almost thought my optic lost it's zero!  I would guess after all the holes i made probably 1.5" groups at only 50. These were loaded to 15.2 grains of Lil'G.

The Sierra 125 gr #2120s worked out to be the best for me. It seemed to be pretty accurate out from 50. 3/4" Keep in mind this is merely from a bench using only a bi-pod and a Vortex 3-9x40. 

I loaded these to 16.5 gr with no signs of over pressure or cycling issues. I've read up on some 20gr loads with the same OAL and setup!  (probably a waste since these are just fun plinking bullets  )

The Sierra 150 gr #2130's also felt pretty accurate from 50 again 3/4" just using a bench. 3-9 and a bi-pod. Might try only buy 110-168 grain bullets for my 300's, still very fun to tinker with!

The Hornady 150's FMJBT's with canncleurs were alright, not sure if it was the wind, or the way I built them, but for me it wasn't as accurate. After I finish off this box i'll probably stick to .308's without canneleurs. However, da buggers are cheap! at $21/100 or $130/700 19c a bullet! (meh, the price may bring me back.. always wait for free ship off midway)

Picked up these bullets by price, data and not by mere preference. I also saved a few of each batch since I didn't get to shoot these through my chrono. It was too windy at Schofield and I would of had to set it up pretty high to hit the berm. I didn't feel like blowing up my new toy with a 30 cal, lol.

Every batch cycled fine with bolt back minus one or two of the FMJHP's sticking on my new L5 mag. (looked like it was due to the case mouth hitting the new unworn front of the mag)

I haven't come across a huge batch where I had to pull them, just yet..    Hopefully it never happens!  I kind of like to crank them out when I have everything setup the way I want it. 

Not sure if I ever want to do revolver loads like 38 sp. One lil F up and them revolvers will auto chamber a round and not just jam like a pistol with a slide.

 

It's always a good reloading session when the only thing you had to worry about was low primers and powder!!

Great way to start a Saturday morning. 

Been buying and trying a few different bullets, mostly Sierra, Hornady and Barnes. These are made mostly for just plinking.

Whats your favorite 300 AAC BLK powder/bullet and why?? 




Reprocessed Military 223/556 Brass. Nice little gems to start working with.



Deprimed, quick tumble, decrimped primer pockets and cut with a mini chop saw with a jig I purchased off a friend.
Trimmed and wet tumbled in stainless steel media.



Little Crow Gunworks WFT, trims from the shoulder out and not from the head stamp of the brass to the mouth. Shove and done, little pain in the ass to setup.
Also Military brass is also a pain to size since the brass is a little ticker. It takes a few strokes of being worked to get it to size correctly.
I noticed that if I stuck it into the full length sizing die just once it will not case gauge correctly. The head stamp will still protrude a few hundredths of an inch noticeable by a fingernail.
Must I say, lube, lube and more lube. Sized with Lee 300 BLK dies in a Lee progressive Loadmaster.



After being cleaned and dried in the hot sun for a nice day every single case is measured and case gauged.  I don't like pulling/wasting bullets.

The shoulders are also NOT created in the 'EXACT' same spot after being sized and since my trimmer cuts from the shoulder of the case out. The case OAL's are all different. This is also important if using a bullet with a canneleur. I even measured factory 300 BLK purchased ammunition and the case OAL's were all different but within SAAMI specs. Also keep in mind that this is also due to using mixed Mil brass. Per SAAMI spec's case OAL's are 1.368" MAX - .020 (1.348" min) Most of mine were anywhere from 1.350-1.365. Measure all your cases if using a canneleur. You will run into issues if you dont take all your brass that are roughly the same +/- .003.
All cases get inspected. 



4 Piles, 1.360" 1.355" 1.365" 1.350" separated to piles +/- .003". Most were 1.360"



150 gr Hornady FMJBT @ 2.060" (yes I know it's a hair over .001 off), Light crimp. If you notice after setting up your seating die and your case mouth spots are all over the place from the canncleur it's because of the case OAL before you started. I picked all of my closest case OAL's for canneleurs. These were roughly my batch of 1.360" +/- .003.




Every single round is case gauged and measured. (again and again) 






Not all make the cut. This was 1 for 300.. My best guess is this got stepped on, heads stamp looked a little nicked.



Mixxed Mil Brass



Ran out of the Hornadys, Made some Sierra 125 gr #2120 Spitzers at 2.000"




All rounds were loaded with Hodgdon Lil'gun and CCI small rifle primers.

Case prep on these are a huge PITA...

Will shoot these through a Chrono tomorrow. 

If you plan to shoot subs get a pistol length gas system. You will most likely need a can to increase the back pressure. However, as you may already know suppressors aren't legal in Hawaii. I've seen pistol length gas systems work for subs with an adjustable gas block, but it's a pain especially if you plan to use reloads.

If you plan to shoot supers (most likely), go with a Carbine length gas system. I have a Carbine length 300 at .750 it cycles supers fine without any ftfs.

In short, do you plan to shoot subs, supers or both? IMO it's pointless to shoot subs without a can.

Nice, you powder coat them yourself?