It is absolutely unconstitutional and death by a thousand cuts.
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I got all the lighting at HOME DEPOT. The receptacle is just a 2-outlet normal 110-115V outlet. I installed it in a non-metallic shallow electrical outlet box with the standard plastic faceplate.My bighorn doesn't have a hole in the back.
To provide power, I got a good quality 3-wire cord. I may have had this lying around the shop, or I may have just gotten an extension cord and cut one end off. There's a hole already drilled in the back or one side of the safe, so there's no problem with warranty. Run the cord from the outside and connect it to the receptacle. Then put the box, receptacle and faceplate together. I used velcro stuck to the back of the box to attach it to the fuzzy carpet on the safe wall. I've seen online suggestions that you might take a small piece of wood, cover it in a similar carpeting, and velcro that to the inside wall. Now you have a place to drill holes and mount anything you want without drilling into the firewall/drywall.
I attached a rope light (can use led strips now -- not available when I did mine). Ran it around the inside frame of the door with the power connection on the RIGHT side of the door frame. That's so I could install a switch. If you open the safe and look inside, you'll see a stationary bolt on the bottom of the hinged side of the door, When you close the door, the stationary bolts position themselves behind the door frame. I use the bottom bolt to push the switch when the door closes. The switch is just like a big refrigerator switch.
That switch mounts with velcro and fits between the closed door bolt and the right side of the safe. Velcro is on the back and side of the switch box attached to the side and inside front of the door frame. I may have had to add a shim to get the switch to make contact with the bolt -- long time ago. The switch looks big, but it's pretty much hidden behind the frame.
I wired the power cord for the light to run through the switch, and then plugged it into the outlet with the dehumidifier rod.
It's a simple wiring exercise. Only 2 wires in the switch. Just take the power cord from the light, cut one of the wires (black or white normally), and connect the 2 halves to the switch leads. Leave the other power wires alone. Door closes, switch stops flow of power. Door opens, power restored. Doesn't take an electrician, but it does take some basic knowledge of how to safely connect electric wires.
I have one of the 2pc humidity and temperature units. It works if you put the sensor unit on the top shelf inside the safe and set the remote display unit on top of the safe very close to the sensor. One problem with this is you have to make a visual check to know if the humidity is high. With the Puck and eLertus devices, they can use digital communications to notify you and send weekly status updates. Also, you have to replace the batteries often if the signal is weak, because the device will drain the batteries trying to maintain a connection. That means replacing batteries in both units. More battery cost for that type than for the WiFi versions.
Let me know if you have more questions. Lots of options, and much of it is preference and where the safe will be in relation to your normal foot traffic paths. if it's in a room that sees little use, I'd say get the WiFi monitoring. If you can see it as you go to the fridge, then the non WiFi might be okay. I liked having the alerts hit my phone, since I had multiple people with access to the safe. Good to know when that door opens and closes.
I tried to order 1 of the bighorn safe for $549, but shipping is additional $300 (customer Svs says these CAN NOT BE DELIVERED here). However, if I ordered the non advertised & full retail msrp they would "deliver" curbside for additional 300 clams.Did you try to just order it online? All in with tax, it came out to $575, delivered and set in the room and spot I wanted it in. Those hydrologic hand carts are spiffy!
I installed an outlet in my Bighorn. Plugged into it the golden rod humidity thing and a 4 ft LED light rope. Ran the rope on the door side across the top and down the sides in an upside-down "U". Spliced a large push switch that's activated by the door into the power cord for the light. Basically a DIY version of some of the expensive light kits available,Wow, thank you very much! Very informative and interesting ideas. How were you able to install an electrical outlet inside the safe? Wouldn't any alterations void the warranty?
You might also want a pistol rack and a door organizer.
I bought this rack because (1) I don't like the ones that have wires sliding into and out of the barrel, and (2) I can put gun socks on the pistols and store them trigger up or trigger down.
I bought this door hanger organizer from Dean Safe online, but Amazon carries it now:
I believe I had to add velcro to the straps because the mounting straps were designed for a slightly larger door. The panel is almost the exact size of my door. Recommend you measure the inside of your door. It might be different than when I bought mine. They do make a "17-18" model that's smaller, but I wanted to maximize storage.
You probably should have a humidity monitor as well. instead of something just for humidity, I use this:
HOWEVER.... Since that's not available, I did some searching. Looks like this newer device called "The Puck" is taking its place on sites like Dean Safe:
Looks like there are a few differences I'm not sure I like:
(1) The Puck uses 4 AA batteries. The eSafe version only need 2 AA batteries.
(2) The Puck must be mounted on the door (or door frame?). My eSafe is mounted on the top-right wall area -- pretty much no restriction on where to mount it..
(3) The Puck requires a magnet to be mounted on the opposite part of the door opening next to the device so it can sense when the door opens and closes. My eSafe uses light sensing to do that. With the auto-on lighting I have installed, it always knows if it's opened or closed and texts and emails me when either occurs.
I suppose you could mount The Puck anywhere on the inside door frame, and place the magnet on the door itself. Looks like it's just a magnetic switch inside the device, and the magnet trips the closed/opened alerts when the magnet is next to/away from The Puck.
The old model does come with an optional antenna for locations where the device can't reliably connect to your WiFi. The Puck seems to not have that, likely because the 4 AA batteries provide more power for its signal.
ANY-Wayyyyyy .... In addition to the humidity and alert features of that device, you might also get a WiFi security cam trained on the safe. That way, if you get an alert, you can bring up the camera and check on it remotely. A camera would also give you a recording of who's messing with your gun safe, and maybe deter someone living there/visiting from attempting to open it if they know the camera is there.
Hope that helps.
I'll look into these. Appreciate your help.I have an American Security 30 gun safe in storage stateside.
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The sale price doesn't take effect until tomorrow ......
$549.99 ($200 off)
Starts 9/2 online only. Says "Room of Choice : Shipping & Handling Included".I bought one, let's see how it turns out.
Vote establishment democrat across the board so you get your next ballot on timeC'mon, I've been away from home for 40 years but who do I vote for these seats? I heard something about Stonebraker....that's about all.
And the g-dam news spinner it that the crowd didn't like the first family when the whole crowd was in tears from the heart wrenching story.
It turns out that young boy is a blue lives matters supporter and decided to come to the Kenosha party and give the cops a hand.
The cops for their part, suspiciously did not immediately arrest him, after shooting a couple of people, but instead offered the young suspect water.
If the statute of limitations expired before any charges were filed, then there should be no problem getting the property returned.Great advice! I don't know why people here troll you, brah. You've been nothing but helpful and knowledgeable to my posts.
Try to work with HPD first to apply for a permit and have the property returned when it's issued. If they say they need a court order, filing a motion based on the time limit expiring should be child's play.