Have you contacted the manufacturer?

Many companies provide free replacement parts for things like that.  Worth a try.

I called the Levolor blind company to order some replacement slats for the 6' wide wooden blinds my German Shepherd chewed up (my fault for closing the blinds he always looks out of when I left  ).  The blinds came with the house I bought in 2001, so I wasn't the original customer.  They sent me 7 replacement slats and the plugs that hold the control line in place.  They paid for it all, including shipping.

Never know if you don't ask.   

it appears you will need a lathe
or a drill press and epoxy a nail into the bored out hole - it is the cheapest scenario I can think of...
you can try these guys: http://www.ptengineeringllc.com/
But I think with the setup fee you may be inclined to either have the manufacturer warranty it or order a replacement.

Ren,

Thank you as always for your on-subject comments.

I was thinking of having a machinist drill a hole in the stem and soldering/gluing in a hardened point.

Maybe buy 3 ice picks, cut the tips off, and solder them into the stems?


(The leveling knobs came with the one-piece shooting rest by Accu-Shot, which I bought from Anschutz North America's Steve Boelter.  The rest was his for many years, so no warranty, etc.)

 He said he will be sending me something to replace the "feet" but I suspect it's the flat rount coin-shaped feet for concrete benches.  Really need the pointed feet for Kokohead though.........

Hi Flapp,

Thank you for your helpful information as always.

This one-piece shooting rest was bought many years ago, and no warranty. 

I was going to buy ice picks, cut off the tips, and have them inserted in the stem.... what do you think?

Hi Flapp,

Thank you for your helpful information as always.

This one-piece shooting rest was bought many years ago, and no warranty. 

I was going to buy ice picks, cut off the tips, and have them inserted in the stem.... what do you think?

The Atlas / B&T Industries bipods and monopods have a lifetime warranty.  There is nothing stated on the website that you have to prove ownership/purchase price.  Lifetime for many companies means for the life of the product regardless of who owns it or purchased it new.  As I said, calling or emailing them to ask isn't a big deal.

http://www.accu-shot.com/faq.php
(Click on Warranty Repair and Exchange)

customerservice@accu-shot.com


Looking at the AccuShot products, it looks like the feet you have may be off-brand replacements, or maybe they were discontinued.

You can buy replacement feet from many resellers, not just AccuShot branded, including one I found called Accu-Tac:

https://www.accu-tac.com/bipod-feet

Their spikes are very similar to the AccuShot spikes sold today, and are only $40 per set.

If you can get yours repaired for cheaper, then that's probably a good deal.  If a professional machinist charges you standard labor rates, you're going to be better off just buying new.  New will probably last longer, too.

Just my 2 cents.  Good luck.

ADDED NOTE *************

One other thing to keep in mind:  there are counterfeit Accu-Shot products being made, as there are for most pricy accessories.  If you are curious, Accu-Shot will let you send them photos of your item for an evaluation.  Email to the same address for customer service.  If it's not authentic, then lifetime warranty service would obviously not be an option.

https://accu-shot.net/main/accu-rest/

Hi Flapp,

This is the Accu-Shot company, which I think is different from your Accu-Shot company.

"My" Accu-Shot" is a guy named Randy Leger in Louisiana...................

https://accu-shot.net/main/accu-rest/

Hi Flapp,

This is the Accu-Shot company, which I think is different from your Accu-Shot company.

"My" Accu-Shot" is a guy named Randy Leger in Louisiana...................

Okay.  I'd need more detail on the shooting rest to know for sure.  He may in fact be an authorized Accu-Shot retailer.

Looking at the photos, it appears the adjustable legs (levelers) protrude through the base of the horizontal tubes at the front and rear.  I also assume the tubes are solid aluminum and are drilled and tapped for the levelers.

If the retailer doesn't offer replacement levelers, that's not an option.  I'd think whoever makes this would offer replacement parts as they may break or get misplaced.

One option would be to make all-new feet.  I started going into detail, but there are questions and many options.  Like, if the original are aluminum, and the holes they go in are in aluminum, you probably want to stick with aluminum bolts.  Hard material could strip the threads in the holes.

There are knobs that screw onto bolts, bolts that come with knobs attached, etc, etc.  Any aluminum bolt of the right dimensions and thread pattern should work.  And grinding the end of the bolt to a point is easy using a drill press as a vertical lathe.  You can even clamp a regular drill to a workbench and use that with a little bit of thought.

Making new makes more sense to me than repairing the old.  If they broke already, the repair process would actually weaken the bolts further.  And the stems/points don't need to be very long -- less material to remove with the file & drill press.

I'm an avid DIYer.  I like to reuse what I have lying around rather than buying something.  If I have 3 bolts of the same size and threads that fit, I'd be set.  No drilling out old bolts and wasting ice picks required.   

Based on this photo from the site you linked, the rest/s uses different size diameters for the levelers.

Are yours all identical?  If not, something to keep in mind so you don't wind up with one that fists and two that don't!   

Looking at the pics you posted again, I'm wondering if sharpening the existing bolts/levelers into a point isn't the best option.  It looks like there's more than ample length to do that and still have enough to level with.

Looking at the pics you posted again, I'm wondering if sharpening the existing bolts/levelers into a point isn't the best option.  It looks like there's more than ample length to do that and still have enough to level with.

Flapp,

You have the simplest solution......no need for ice picks, drilling holes, epoxy, etc.

I just want it done by a machine shop so that they all come out the same.
I don't trust myself to try it on a sander, or using a file would probably end in a disaster............

If the threaded rod (steel) can be removed from the knob (aluminum???), then chucking the rod in a lathe and drilling holes or sharpening to a point wouldn't be cost prohibitive. Try double nutting the rod and unscrewing the knobs. If you can separate the rod then we can talk about drilling or sharpening.

If the threaded rod (steel) can be removed from the knob (aluminum???), then chucking the rod in a lathe and drilling holes or sharpening to a point wouldn't be cost prohibitive. Try double nutting the rod and unscrewing the knobs. If you can separate the rod then we can talk about drilling or sharpening.

Another way is to make a wooden clamp.  Make it out of 2 halves of a wooden block.

Drill a hole through a single block of wood big enough in diameter for the bolt knob plus room to screw the halves together again.  The cut it in half across the hole.

Use a large bit to carve out a recess on the inside of one half of the block for the leveler to fit down into. 

Do the same on the other half block for a hex head bolt to fit in very tightly (use an almost too small bit, then hammer the bolt into the half block.

Add a lock nut on the bolts to keep them from spinning, one per bolt.

Now use wood screws (not drywall) to join the block halves together again.  You basically created a sandwich that holds the leveler sticking out on side, and another bolt sticking out the other side.

Now you can clamp the new bolt side into the lathe chuck (or a drill press) and let it turn as you file the point.  If you want them all to be exactly the same angle/depth of point, a wooden block with an angled notch can be used as a guide for the file.  The file never has to move except toward the work piece as the point is formed.  The angle would be uniform, and the depth controlled by the table height for the press or lathe.

Anyway, there's more than one way to clamp a leveler!     

Another way is to . . .
. . . . . 

Okay

If the threaded rod (steel) can be removed from the knob (aluminum???)

I tried and tried tonight to unscrew the knob from the steel stem.... man, it's jammed or wedged in really tight.

I think I even smashed some of the threads near the top (under the knob) with a vise-grip plier.......... no can do...........

Thanks to everyone for their suggestions and solutions.

Thanks Dogman and Hi-State for your assistance.

I found these shooting rest legs for the new Sinclair front rest, on the Brownells website.

I took a chance and ordered them.  They fit.  Only cost $35.00 for 3 legs......just what I needed.