I mean, if you tape em together, then I guess it could be used. Guud ENuFf

If the holes don't line up, the first thing I'd suspect would be trying to use Commercial and MILSPEC parts together.  If both halves of the receiver are MILSPEC, mismatched pin holes would be a defect -- go get a refund or replacement.

if there's play (slop) after the halves are pinned together, that's normally not a problem.  Optimally, you don't want the gun to rattle.  However, since all the main "action" is contained in the upper, and the fire control group (trigger) is in the lower, really the most important consideration is whether or not the hammer in the lower is able to cause the firing pin in the upper (BCG) to strike the primer of the round.  A gap between the halves is seldom a functional issue.

If the holes don't line up, the first thing I'd suspect would be trying to use Commercial and MILSPEC parts together.  If both halves of the receiver are MILSPEC, mismatched pin holes would be a defect -- go get a refund or replacement.

if there's play (slop) after the halves are pinned together, that's normally not a problem.  Optimally, you don't want the gun to rattle.  However, since all the main "action" is contained in the upper, and the fire control group (trigger) is in the lower, really the most important consideration is whether or not the hammer in the lower is able to cause the firing pin in the upper (BCG) to strike the primer of the round.  A gap between the halves is seldom a functional issue.

I am aware of MILSPEC and Commercial buffer tubes.  Wasn't aware of different uppers and lowers.  I know and have seen the large takedown pin lowers in older Colt rifles.  I've shot them, but don't own any. 

I am aware of MILSPEC and Commercial buffer tubes.  Wasn't aware of different uppers and lowers.  I know and have seen the large takedown pin lowers in older Colt rifles.  I've shot them, but don't own any.

You're right.  Millspec receivers can accept both MILSPEC and COMMERCIAL buffer tubes.

When I said commercial, i should have just said non-MILSPEC.  Some makers deviate from MILSPEC is their design and manufacturing.  In order to ensure they are compatible, I only buy receiver halves that are designated MILSPEC.

So far, it seems Spikes' receivers lock up well together.  No discernible gap or wiggle.

PSA seems to be a little less tight, but not enough to call them loose, at least the ones i've gotten.  Maybe that's the "blemish" I couldn't find?   

You're right.  Millspec receivers can accept both MILSPEC and COMMERCIAL buffer tubes.

When I said commercial, i should have just said non-MILSPEC.  Some makers deviate from MILSPEC is their design and manufacturing.  In order to ensure they are compatible, I only buy receiver halves that are designated MILSPEC.

So far, it seems Spikes' receivers lock up well together.  No discernible gap or wiggle.

PSA seems to be a little less tight, but not enough to call them loose, at least the ones i've gotten.  Maybe that's the "blemish" I couldn't find?   

Gotcha.  Out of spec.  I've mostly bought "known good" AR receivers, so haven't come across any issues.  I've had one LMT gun that the fitup between upper and lower was so snug that it takes a punch to separate the upper and lower.  One of the instructors was a burly/fit Aussie former .mil type.  He was like "rub some man on your hands", insinuating "man up".  So I was like "here, you try" and he couldn't budge the pin.   

Hahaha

Are you just bs'ing?  Or did you truly witness that?  I mean I've seen some bubba'ed guns, but that is pretty extreme.

If I witnessed it, I'd move on down the line.  I was told by a few who got Anderson lowers that they had issues with various uppers.  Never heard of any other brand tell me this. 

Found it odd that a PEQ15 would be included in the value category.  The ACOG is a bad fit for their rifle because of it's high price and precision nature of the build.  A mid tier LPVO would've been better.

For most firearm owners, there's pressure to get the latest and greatest thing and spend as much as you can and they don't know any better.  That you can just buy skill.  Like when you see a person with an expensive precision AR15 at the range only shooting milspec ammo.  An important lesson for new shooters is to know what the purpose of the firearm will be, start low and build up as skills improve.  And to budget training an ammo expenses as part of the rifle purchase.

I'm about value for you buck. For this amount of $, is this the best option, or are there others?  Most AR owners in HI don't shoot theirs enough to justify something that's supposed to be "better" like a Noveske.  It's the Indian, not the arrow.

I have a S&W MPII and it shoots better than the guys who are in my class with a Noveske or DD, etc...I do expect an instructor to have a "better" rifle.  I mean if you had a guy teaching your class with an Anderson build, that would be concerning.  Even if he can out perform you.

gUuUUd ENuFF

These are good points and people make the mistake of focusing too much on the rifle where they spend all their money on it, and have a nice safe queen or bargain in the classifieds.  For people getting into firearms they should budget based on 3 things:  firearm/accessories, practice, training.  For a person with a $5,000 budget, which is a lot of money, $2500 might go into taking a few local classes and skill builders along with a class on the mainland.  $1,000 for practice ammo.  And that leaves $1,500 for the firearm & accessories.  Then there's the matter of time that beginners don't account for, the hundreds of hours to become proficient.

Overall the firearm is a relatively minor item compared to everything else but is instead treated as the most important item.

As far as instructors equipment.  It should simply do what is needed.  If an instructor can shoot a 600 yard bullseye with a milspec AR15 with iron sights, that shows the students it's the person, not the gun.  And that's an important lesson to learn.

My builds come out to around $1100-1200 with optic. I'll try to find sales where I can on parts
I shot a friends POF AR which is nearly twice the price. Store bought rifle. They dont make this model anymore it is pretty basic
Mine shot just as good if not better. Did some shooting on some private property so was more closer targets, fast shooting, reloading. 10-50 yards
I'm not expert AR guy but for my purposes I know I don't need a $2000 AR

Found it odd that a PEQ15 would be included in the value category.  The ACOG is a bad fit for their rifle because of it's high price and precision nature of the build.  A mid tier LPVO would've been better.

For most firearm owners, there's pressure to get the latest and greatest thing and spend as much as you can and they don't know any better.  That you can just buy skill.  Like when you see a person with an expensive precision AR15 at the range only shooting milspec ammo.  An important lesson for new shooters is to know what the purpose of the firearm will be, start low and build up as skills improve.  And to budget training an ammo expenses as part of the rifle purchase.

I took the PEQ15 as what he values but if you can find it in a specific price range.  But yeah, context specific.  I wouldn't prioritize an ACOG, but Hawaii is very different than areas where those hillbillies live. 

When I was first getting into ARs, the "gun is the cheapest" part was feedback I got often and it has come true.  At least for folks who shoot/train regularly.  It is tougher to find quality training locally, but there are some opportunities.  Although seemingly more and more rare.  I also now recommend trying and shooting a lot before buying this and that.  I did the buy this and that early on and eventually got to my preferred setups now.  I mean if you have the means, have at it.  I had the means, but I will say I wasted a bunch of $$$ on gear that I ended up not liking. 

My builds come out to around $1100-1200 with optic. I'll try to find sales where I can on parts
I shot a friends POF AR which is nearly twice the price. Store bought rifle. They dont make this model anymore it is pretty basic
Mine shot just as good if not better. Did some shooting on some private property so was more closer targets, fast shooting, reloading. 10-50 yards
I'm not expert AR guy but for my purposes I know I don't need a $2000 AR

I've owned a pricey AR.  I can't say it shot any better or worse than my other more budget friendly ARs.  It was more features, like monolitic rail (which I didn't end up liking). 

There's also brands that I think are overpriced.  That includes DD IMO.  My first AR was a DD V5, which I ended up selling.  I bought before their popularity took off, but seeing the pricing now I think there are lots of options for better value. 

this youtube channel has a lot of tech info on ARs from gauging specs etc.

I have a PSA Freedom upper, but I think melonite barrel.  I forget when I bought it, but prob close to 10 years.  Never had a problem with it, but mostly bought/have it as a beater gun that I expected to be over gassed to eat up cheaper and under powered ammo.  That was when Tula was super cheap and readily available, but not so anymore. . . 

That guage for the FSP alignment was pretty cool.  I have a BCM upper that I had to send back for FSP alignment. 

That was pretty darn thorough inspection.  I would guess the feedramp on that second one would function just fine, but that was something I noticed on my uppers early on. 

I have a PSA Freedom upper, but I think melonite barrel.  I forget when I bought it, but prob close to 10 years.  Never had a problem with it, but mostly bought/have it as a beater gun that I expected to be over gassed to eat up cheaper and under powered ammo.  That was when Tula was super cheap and readily available, but not so anymore. . . 

My $500 MPII can show all kinds of ammo. Brass, Tula, that bear logo steel cased stuff, etc...No issues.  Can the $3,000 DD or Noveske's do the same?

My $500 MPII can show all kinds of ammo. Brass, Tula, that bear logo steel cased stuff, etc...No issues.  Can the $3,000 DD or Noveske's do the same?

That (IMO) is more about how the guns are gassed than the “quality”. Is the said Novekse a midlength?

I’ve seen BCM midlengths choke on Tula and PMC. It was mostly how the user “upgraded” the buffer and springs to “tune” to full powered 5.56 pressures ammo.

I get what (I think) you are saying. However, how much of what you are seeing are user input or error?

That (IMO) is more about how the guns are gassed than the “quality”. Is the said Novekse a midlength?

I’ve seen BCM midlengths choke on Tula and PMC. It was mostly how the user “upgraded” the buffer and springs to “tune” to full powered 5.56 pressures ammo.

I get what (I think) you are saying. However, how much of what you are seeing are user input or error?

That's what I'm wondering.  Can a factory build DD/Noveske, can it shoot any ammo without issues?  Or because they're higher end, the assumption is the user wont shoot cheap steel/aluminum ammo.

That's 1 reason why I don't tinker with stuff. #1 it's usually above my pay grade. #2 don't got the tools. #3 range is out of the way to test fire. Only to have to go back home to "recalibrate" and go back to the range.

I remember installing an ELF trigger on Mrs. CMO's rifle. Got light primer strikes. Called ELF's CSC from the car and they said they will send out a new trigger. Then went back home and waited. Only to have to go to the range again.

That's what I'm wondering.  Can a factory build DD/Noveske, can it shoot any ammo without issues?  Or because they're higher end, the assumption is the user wont shoot cheap steel/aluminum ammo.

That's 1 reason why I don't tinker with stuff. #1 it's usually above my pay grade. #2 don't got the tools. #3 range is out of the way to test fire. Only to have to go back home to "recalibrate" and go back to the range.

I remember installing an ELF trigger on Mrs. CMO's rifle. Got light primer strikes. Called ELF's CSC from the car and they said they will send out a new trigger. Then went back home and waited. Only to have to go to the range again.

I believe BCM notes their uppers are gassed to target use by full pressure 5.56 (193, 855) or at least they used to.  Not sure if that's on any BCM ads or website, but I recall that's what they told me when I was inquiring about my upper that had a slightly canted FSP, and was asking about other things.  So I think it depends.  If say a user is using the gun for what the manufactuer/builder did not intend, then whose issue is it?  I personally wanted at least one gun that ate up any kinds of cheapo ammo, but I know at least two of my midlengths have occasional issues with lower pressured ammo.  I sold off my DD, but I also recall their feedback was to flat out avoid Tula and or laquer cased ammo.  I'd have to dig up the email for specific warning/wording.  It is what it is, but I ended up selling that gun for different reasons. 

ARs don't need a lot of tools for most of the tweaking.  I don't have the tools on hand for stuff that need barrel nut work, and can "bubba" stuff like muzzle devices, but prefer to wait until I can get to my buddy's shop to do stuff like that. 

For your example of the trigger, that's a little different than the issues with functioning with uppers.  But still a good example of the value in "trust but verify".