I am stumped on the "load data" thing. I bought Lyman's 29th because I read it has very good information. I want to reload 9mm but the data to me seems very limited. 90 gr JHP, 95gr FMJ, 115gr JHP, 125gr JHP 147 TMJ. The rest are all lead bullets which I do not plan to reload, at this point anyway.  I ordered 124gr FMJ with a round nose, how do I get the data for that bullet?

Is a 124gr. bullet the same whether FMJ or JHP as far as data (powder weight, OAL etc.) goes?

Are there any other resources out there that are good to check out? I really wanted to get into this but it seems very complicating to gather the appropriate information.

Thanks

check your powders website.most have reloading data

I am stumped on the "load data" thing. I bought Lyman's 29th because I read it has very good information. I want to reload 9mm but the data to me seems very limited. 90 gr JHP, 95gr FMJ, 115gr JHP, 125gr JHP 147 TMJ. The rest are all lead bullets which I do not plan to reload, at this point anyway.  I ordered 124gr FMJ with a round nose, how do I get the data for that bullet?

Is a 124gr. bullet the same whether FMJ or JHP as far as data (powder weight, OAL etc.) goes?

Are there any other resources out there that are good to check out? I really wanted to get into this but it seems very complicating to gather the appropriate information.

Thanks

What brand of bullet did you order/buy? I would suggest you go to the website of the bullet manufacturer first. If they don't provide free load data you can interpret load data from your powder manufacturer and you can also interpret load data from the Lyman Manual. If I load a lot of a particular brand of bullet I usually invest in their loading manual.

The biggest differences are between jacketed and lead bullets. While there will be ballistic differences between a FMJ and a JHP, the load data should be similar. Especially, for handgun loads. They may not be exact but they should be close/similar. Different manufacturers will have differing load data for similar style bullets. Which is why I recommend the load data from the bullet manufacturer as the primary source for beginning load data.

I would not rely on load data found on a forum or recommended by source unknown to you.

I personally like the Sierra Manual the best and use it the most for my beginning load data. I also shoot a lot of Sierra bullets as they work well in all of my guns. But I also shoot, Hornady, Berger, Montana Gold, and Nosler as well as a few no name brands. For those that I don't have a manual for I pull from all my resources and make a chart based on similar weights and powders. If one brand is off on the charge by more than 10% or so from the average of the others I disregard it. I also found some discrepancies in the Lyman Manual with .357 lead bullets. The loads were way too hot for lead and caused some issues. If I had checked with another source before I used the Lyman data I would have disregarded the Lyman data. For that reason I always check a minimum of 2 different sources before I begin loading a particular cartridge/bullet/powder combination.

Usually the COAL is the maximum as stated by the Standard or as set by the bullet manufacturer. Which may be another argument for going with the bullet manufacturer's data. In any case it should be close or exactly the same for most bullet combinations. For instance the Lyman, Hornady and another manual I have may have the COAL as the same exact length. But sometimes when I check my Sierra Manual for a Sierra Bullet they have a COAL 0.01" different. In most cases the difference is minimal. And won't cause any problems.

I hope this answers your questions and helps you.

The powder mfg website should have data on the weight and type of bullet you are using... Min - max... Start in middle of range and work your way in increments of .2....

COAL is still a mystery to me as my guns take 1.13-1.60 using a 124 grain rainier or 124 MG CMJ both function reliably. Tried 4.2-4.7 grains W231. Ended up staying with 4.5 so that the brass extracts sideways with enough force to land in he net... The lower loads seated longer would eject straight up while the same lower loads with a shorter seated bullet load would extract sideways.

Question: Is it best to seat as long as possible and increase the powder load to gain FPS? (Not hit load) or use a lower powder load and adjust COAL shorter?

Is there a way to find the best combination besides trying every combo of powder charge and OAL?

How do we find the best combination to maximize accuracy and reduce felt recoil.

By the ways I have 2 glock 9mm...

Thanks dolo and inspect. Both your information was helpful.

I bought some 124gr FMJ from Montana Bullet. I have a few more questions:

-How do I know find out the manufacturer of the bullet ?
-For general plincking do you recommend a specific weight, i.e. 115gr. or 24gr etc?

you can also check the powder manufacturer for load data.  I think, the only thing that will determine the manufacturer of the bullets might be in the original container, or where you ordered the bullets from (Montana Gold, Precision Delta, etc).

For plinking, just use whatever available.  For accuracy and competition, determine your best loads by trial and error as well as chrono, case over all length, bullet type, etc.  For self defense, I would not use my reloads (unless I have to), use factory loaded ammo (for liability purposes).

Thanks dolo and inspect. Both your information was helpful.

I bought some 124gr FMJ from Montana Bullet. I have a few more questions:

-How do I know find out the manufacturer of the bullet ?
-For general plincking do you recommend a specific weight, i.e. 115gr. or 24gr etc?

Montana Gold Bullets are well made and are manufactured by the Montana Gold Bullet Company. However, they don't produce any load data for their products. So it is up to you to interpret similar data from your Lyman manual and any reliable online resources such as the powder manufacturers or other loading manuals. So for your 124gr FMJ bullets you can use similar data for 125gr FMJ, JHP or TMJ. Just start in the lower range and work your way up to the higher ranges.

For general plinking I prefer using cheaper bullets but I compromise with accuracy. In other words, I had some Precision Delta Bullets that did not group well in any of my guns. And since Montana Gold Bullets are a little higher in price and group well, I bought them for plinking. But I won't buy Sierra/Hornady/Nosler for general plinking as they are much more expensive. Now if accuracy for plinking is not that important to you then go and buy the cheapest bullets you can find. As long as they function in your guns. My guns prefer 124gr bullets over the 115gr bullets. But your guns may be different. Also, if you set your sights for 124gr and then switch to 115 gr bullets you might find they hit the target at a different point of aim. But for general plinking either weight bullet is fine. I used to use 90gr for plinking in one of my old guns but found they were not always reliable in function.

Thanks dolo and inspect. Both your information was helpful.

I bought some 124gr FMJ from Montana Bullet. I have a few more questions:

-How do I know find out the manufacturer of the bullet ?
-For general plincking do you recommend a specific weight, i.e. 115gr. or 24gr etc?

=====================
When I start using a new bullet, I consult my Speer loading manual first. I look for a bullet of similar construction, weight and shape and pick out a powder that I have on my shelf.
Then I scan any other loading manuals that I have such as Lyman and Sierra to look for other possibilities.
Then I look at the free downloads from the powder manufacturers. I found Hogdon, Alliant, and Accurate PDF files. These are helpful.
==============
Obviously, major ammo makers manufacture their own bullets. eg rem, win, fed, hornady, etc.
Smaller ammo makers often use bullet heads made by somebody else. They might tell you if you ask them.
==============
Common bullet manufacturers are rem, win, hornady, nosler, sierra, speer, montana gold, precision delta, etc.
Some other less well known bullet makers are Berry's, Rainier, Xtreme, Meister, Lasercast,
=============
For loading dimensions, look at your factory ammo. If the bullet head you bought looks similar to your factory ammo then just adjust the press until your hand loaded rounds measure the same length and crimp as the factory ammo. Calipers and eyeballs are your friends. Use both constantly.
If your reloads look like factory and measure the same, then you will have a successful first experience, assuming you got a good powder charge.
Reloading manuals give maximum dimensions, but these numbers don't always work with different bullet shapes.
=================
For plinking loads, it does not matter what you use. As long as it is economical and provides decent accuracy.
Here is something to consider though. If you bought a pistol with the intention of having a home defense weapon, wouldn't it be cool if you could practice and plink with ammo that looks and performs similar to your chosen self defense ammo? Refer to this thread:
https://2ahawaii.com/index.php?topic=7656.0
==================
My question to you: What powder do you have?
I would not recommend using the lowest listed powder charge on your glock. Generally 9mm's like it hot. Try a charge weight between min and max.
====================
You will notice that Mr. Inspector has given you just about all the same advice I just did...LOL

=====================
When I start using a new bullet, I consult my Speer loading manual first. I look for a bullet of similar construction, weight and shape and pick out a powder that I have on my shelf.
Then I scan any other loading manuals that I have such as Lyman and Sierra to look for other possibilities.
Then I look at the free downloads from the powder manufacturers. I found Hogdon, Alliant, and Accurate PDF files. These are helpful.
==============
Obviously, major ammo makers manufacture their own bullets. eg rem, win, fed, hornady, etc.
Smaller ammo makers often use bullet heads made by somebody else. They might tell you if you ask them.
==============
Common bullet manufacturers are rem, win, hornady, nosler, sierra, speer, montana gold, precision delta, etc.
Some other less well known bullet makers are Berry's, Rainier, Xtreme, Meister, Lasercast,
=============
For loading dimensions, look at your factory ammo. If the bullet head you bought looks similar to your factory ammo then just adjust the press until your hand loaded rounds measure the same length and crimp as the factory ammo. Calipers and eyeballs are your friends. Use both constantly.
If your reloads look like factory and measure the same, then you will have a successful first experience, assuming you got a good powder charge.
Reloading manuals give maximum dimensions, but these numbers don't always work with different bullet shapes.
=================
For plinking loads, it does not matter what you use. As long as it is economical and provides decent accuracy.
Here is something to consider though. If you bought a pistol with the intention of having a home defense weapon, wouldn't it be cool if you could practice and plink with ammo that looks and performs similar to your chosen self defense ammo? Refer to this thread:
https://2ahawaii.com/index.php?topic=7656.0
==================
My question to you: What powder do you have?
I would not recommend using the lowest listed powder charge on your glock. Generally 9mm's like it hot. Try a charge weight between min and max.
====================
You will notice that Mr. Inspector has given you just about all the same advice I just did...LOL

Hello Sir olfart,

I was waiting to hear (read haha) your input. I appreciate all the knowledge you guys share greatly.

No powder yet for me, waiting on SEC to call me when they get something I like in stock, I am on 'a 'list' I guess. I hope they remember to call me. For those of you that don't know I live off island so it is a little tougher to acquire what is needed to reload, but I am working at it diligently.

You will notice that Mr. Inspector has given you just about all the same advice I just did...LOL

You added quite a few more details than I provided. However, great minds do think alike!   

No powder yet for me, waiting on SEC to call me when they get something I like in stock, I am on 'a 'list' I guess. I hope they remember to call me.

I have had good luck with SEC calling me when the powder I was interested in became available. Plus they are good about posting new available items as soon as they become available.

I have had good luck with SEC calling me when the powder I was interested in became available. Plus they are good about posting new available items as soon as they become available.

I do check the forum post for SEC now and again too. I should be more on it though.

Hello Sir olfart,

I was waiting to hear (read haha) your input. I appreciate all the knowledge you guys share greatly.

No powder yet for me, waiting on SEC to call me when they get something I like in stock, I am on 'a 'list' I guess. I hope they remember to call me. For those of you that don't know I live off island so it is a little tougher to acquire what is needed to reload, but I am working at it diligently.

======================
Sending you a pm with contact info for a fella on Kauai who might have something.