The hex screw at center of photo stripped. How to remove?

If ur good with a drill, use a similar size drill bit to knock off the screw head.  Tape off the area around to protect it from damage.   Or do to sears and get a stripped scrrww removal kit use it and return it

What I would do first would get a  slightly larger torx bit and hammer it in the stripped Allen head it might bite enough to remove it. if that doesn't work your gonna have to drill it and get a extractor in there to remove it.

Before working on the bottom screw loosen the top screw first might help loosen the bottom one

The firearm is completely ruined, HOWEVER I'm in a Christmas spirit and will take it off your hands free of charge

Seriously though, all the other posts sumed it up, the Torx bit trick worked for me before.

Sawzall, I guarantee it will work.

What I would do first would get a  slightly larger torx bit and hammer it in the stripped Allen head it might bite enough to remove it. if that doesn't work your gonna have to drill it and get a extractor in there to remove it.

Agree with this approach. Is there thread locker on it?  Heat it up with a lighter first if there is.

In conjunction to the other above recommendations, before you drill, you might try JB weld the allen key in there and try torque it off carefully.  Clean off all oils and try to get a good bond.  Try not to epoxy the screw in there with too much though, just a little dab, and hold it in there until fully cured.

I would use a Dremel and a small-diameter cutting wheel.  Cut a notch across the screw big enough for a smallish flat head screwdriver.



** Disclaimer:  Follow advice from online strangers at your own risk!  **

I have used the ez-out and the torx bit technique many times.  Like mentioned, if loctite was used, heat the threaded portion first. 

Worst case scenario, I would whip out the mig welder.  Just be sure to cover everything else with a/or combination of a wet towel and/or a spare leather gloves/welding jacket.  Just tack weld.  Just build up the tack weld enough to get a firm grip with a vice-grip.

 

Well, you get the darn thing out yet?

I hate stripped screw/bolt heads.  Still have nightmares about them after years of dealing with earlier Honda motorcycles and the junk metal they used to use.  If the screw heads did not strip (phillips), the threads in the castings would after the second or so reattachment.

Well, you get the darn thing out yet?

I hate stripped screw/bolt heads.  Still have nightmares about them after years of dealing with earlier Honda motorcycles and the junk metal they used to use.  If the screw heads did not strip (phillips), the threads in the castings would after the second or so reattachment.

yes finally got to take it out, idk why it took so long, but it was painless nearly effortless with the torx technique

i just used the most fitted torx and it gripped quite easily

thanks for the help

now that i have the red dot off, i'd like to remove the rail entirely, if it wasn't for them screws that constantly become loose on the 10/22 receivers  ...... so ive made the executive decision to dedicate it to iron sight usage only, a tough decision for my lowly plinker...   

the question i have now that the rail has been removed is --- should the screws be left in the bolt? otherwise there would be access to the inside of receiver, bolt, and chamber.  I would assume that stuff could also fly out of the screw holes whilst i plink with my 22lr ammo.

update: made discovery, if screws are tightened they interfere with the bolt, to leave screws in loosely or to not leave them in at all is the question?

I had bad luck with heavy scopes and mounts rocking loose on my 10/22s.  Went from a cheaper weaver to  some other brand and ended up with a kidd rail with kidd torq screws.   Still had to use loctite to keep it in place.