I purchased an ammo can of reproccessed brass from Kaleo Ams at the last gun show. I'm still pretty new to reloading and have only loaded for my revolvers. I have the press, priming tools, measuring tools, primers, powder and bullets. I was going to get the Redding Seating Die with built in crimp ring and a shell plate for 223 Rem. Is this all I need to reload this brass?

If it's milsurp brass, the primer pocket will crimped and you'll need to remove the crimp by swaging or cutting before inserting new primers.  I use the Dillon Super Swage 600.

If it's milsurp brass, the primer pocket will crimped and you'll need to remove the crimp by swaging or cutting before inserting new primers.  I use the Dillon Super Swage 600.

i am fairly certain that kaleo swages their brass since it is military bulk brass

That would save a lot of time.  The only other thing dogman will need is a case trimmer.

That would save a lot of time.  The only other thing dogman will need is a case trimmer.

kaleo brass is cut to length
 

I purchased an ammo can of reproccessed brass from Kaleo Ams at the last gun show. I'm still pretty new to reloading and have only loaded for my revolvers. I have the press, priming tools, measuring tools, primers, powder and bullets. I was going to get the Redding Seating Die with built in crimp ring and a shell plate for 223 Rem. Is this all I need to reload this brass?

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You should get the caliber conversion kit for your dillon.
You need tbe shell plate and locater pins, powder drop tube, and whatever dies you fancy.
I use redding benchrest seater die.
I don't crimp my 223.

Kaleo had two types of brass, I believe, raw and fully processed.  I purchased a can of fully processed brass  (which meant that the brass is sized trimmed and swaged) from them when they had their Christmas special, so all I do is put in a primer, powder, and bullet.  EASY.   (of course all weighed powder and bullet seated to correct OAL)

Some of the case mouths are a little rough and may scratch the bullet while seating, easy remedy for that is to deburr the case mouth before seating, however, I don't really care about that, as I am not going for benchrest accuracy with these..

Hi Dogman.

The brass at the show was all deprimed, swaged to remove the crimp, trimmed to 1.750” +/- .001”, and sized.  Let us know if we can help further.

Also, a pretty awesome website we've found dedicated to everything reloading is Reloader's Nest.  Their forum section is filled with questions/answers, advice etc on reloading.

I purchased an ammo can of reproccessed brass from Kaleo Ams at the last gun show. I'm still pretty new to reloading and have only loaded for my revolvers. I have the press, priming tools, measuring tools, primers, powder and bullets. I was going to get the Redding Seating Die with built in crimp ring and a shell plate for 223 Rem. Is this all I need to reload this brass?

If the brass has been resized as part of their reprocessing then you won't need to do much. If I had purchased this brass I would run all of them through my Case Length Headspace Gage. You never know if they might be too long or they miss resizing one or two. Or possibly the case mouth gets out of round. I have purchased reprocessed brass from a different company and after running each case through my Case Length Headspace Gage I found some that would have jammed in my gun. Why? I am not sure. Probably due to not being resized. Also, there were only a few cases. I wouldn't take the chance of relying on every case being perfectly processed, personally. But that is just me. I am a little OCD about case prep. Also, I would chamfer the inside of each case mouth. Again, you don't have to. It is just something I would do. The last thing I would do is to check a good representative portion of the cases and make sure the primer crimp has been removed completely. The batch of reprocessed brass I purchased had to have about 25%-35% of the primer pocket worked on because a small amount of the crimp was left in the pocket.

After my experience with case preparation of once fired military brass, both unprocessed and reprocessed, I have come to the conclusion that all the work I went through to prepare the brass for loading was not worth the effort to save some money. JMHO

I should add a buddy of mine purchased 1k pieces of reprocessed brass from Kaleo Arms and was happy with his purchase.

I bought some processed and primed brass pretty cheap from a mainland company but I have not loaded them yet.
But that's for another thread.

Mahalo for the replies 
Looks like all I need to get is a shell plate, seating and crimping die.   

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I don't crimp my 223.

No crimp?...I will be reloading for an AR with a 24" 223 Wylde bull barrel.

No crimp?...I will be reloading for an AR with a 24" 223 Wylde bull barrel.

There's been lots of discussions regarding crimp / no crimp. I don't think there is any discernable difference. Over crimping is the issue. I never noticed any diff. between crimped or non crimped ammo. The crimp die is on my Dillon because it is otherwise empty. It has a light crimp.

I don't crimp .223

No crimp?...I will be reloading for an AR with a 24" 223 Wylde bull barrel.

FYI, we're going to need to see groups out of that bad boy. 

I've been entirely happy with the Kaleo brass thus far. Maybe 300 rounds loaded and fired so far.  All have been fine.

I have a crimp die, but I haven't been crimping them. They have been running fine in my AR. (5.56 chamber)

FYI, we're going to need to see groups out of that bad boy. 

+1 

Mahalo for the replies 
Looks like all I need to get is a shell plate, seating and crimping die.   

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You going to use your dillon or single stage it?

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You going to use your dillon or single stage it?

Since I will be only loading a few to try out for now, I'll use the Rock Chucker. I'm getting the Redding seating die and I'll back off the crimp. I was wondering why I saw a lot of seating dies and only one crimp die listed for 223. Thanks All

FYI, we're going to need to see groups out of that bad boy. 

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