Checked out the We and Medford knives. The We brand, and their budget Civivi line look like a wide range of quality and steel. Seems like a Kershaw and ZT range. There are some that caught my eye, but at the procing of the We, I’d stick with ZT and other US made knives.

Those Medford’s also seem nice, but pricey as well.

Was looking at Sypderco as well and reading about the wharncliff shape. So many different choices.

#bladeaddiction

My knife collection has really grown lately. Was looking at one of those storage bags that has 12 slots and you it up. Might have to get the 24 or 36 capacity version.

Checked out the We and Medford knives. The We brand, and their budget Civivi line look like a wide range of quality and steel. Seems like a Kershaw and ZT range. There are some that caught my eye, but at the procing of the We, I’d stick with ZT and other US made knives.

Those Medford’s also seem nice, but pricey as well.

Was looking at Sypderco as well and reading about the wharncliff shape. So many different choices.

I bought a few for black Friday/cyber Monday.  I still want to get a few more.  I guess it is an addiction.   
theres always something new that I run across that is better than what I already have and I need to get it.  not really need but I want to get it. 
now i'm trying to save my money for better quality knives as I learn more of what works better and what is better steel.
I have a couple Kershaws coming in a few days. I'll post pics when they come in

I haven't looked, but I recon' these ones are well out of my price range

I haven't looked, but I recon' these ones are well out of my price range

Go for it!  Go ahead yourself to something (or somethings) nice for Christmas!     You're worth totally worth it! 

Chris Reeve knives are very nice.  A friend has one.  I'm definitely a fan of the Hinder design and I have a few from Kershaw and ZT.  At $350-500 range, I was open to the Chris Reeve and similar price range, but not right now as I ended up with a few at a lower price point.  Maybe one day. . .

I came close to ordering a Wicked Edge Go Deluxe this past weekend.  I still might before the holidays are up, but for now I'll stick with my stones and Spyderco Sharpmaker.  My dad was pretty rough on his knives and I found a few nicer ones that I am going to spend some time and sharpening them.  One is a D2, so will be the first time working with that steel.  The other is a tanto shape (not sure the steel, but it's a Benchmade), so another opportunity to practice sharpening that shape (which I'm not really good at now).  Also been playing around with stropping and that seems to make a difference if you're trying to get super sharp. 

My friend in TN who makes custom knives has the Wicked Edge pro system and he can get the blades unreal sharp.  I mean abunai level of sharp and have heard of many folks cutting themselves.  I have to admit that I was careless one time when unsheathing one and it drew blood.     I can get most of my knives pretty sharp with stones and stuff, but not able to get them like how he can.  That's where I started trying stropping and that seems to make a difference.  I mean, I can get my knives very sharp with just the stones and stuff, but the stropping seems to take it to another level. 

I bought a few for black Friday/cyber Monday.  I still want to get a few more.  I guess it is an addiction.   
theres always something new that I run across that is better than what I already have and I need to get it.  not really need but I want to get it. 
now i'm trying to save my money for better quality knives as I learn more of what works better and what is better steel.
I have a couple Kershaws coming in a few days. I'll post pics when they come in

I hear ya.  I've always been into knives and have many that I don't "need" but bought just because I wanted it. 

I'm in a similar position where I am tempted to buy the more budget friendly knives to try and stuff, but I'm trying to stick to the better quality knives.  As mentioned in the other post, I now have some knives to refine my sharpening techniques and that's where I think I'll be focusing on for now.  My knives don't get that much use on a daily basis.  I have a cheapo Stanley boxcutter that I have at home that I use to open up boxes and break them down.  I now have a fixed blade and a folder or two that I have been using more with intent to "use" them more or less to have to sharpen them.  Haha.  I used to make more use out of my knives when I lived in WA, but not really much these days.  The harshest I am on the knife in my pocket now is making a toothpick out of a chopstick. . .   

Spent some time to clean up one of my dad's Benchmade tantos last night.  Mostly cleaning up gunk, but also opportunity to practice sharpening the tanto shape.  I used a whetstone and I was able to get both edges pretty sharp, but I also ended up mucking up the transition between the two edges.  I knew that was one of the key aspects of sharpening a tanto shape, but I think I went too fast on the coarse stone.  I should have started with the finer (1000 grit) stone and just gone slowly and see if that was enough.  Lesson learned and need more practice.  I think I'll be giving the Benchmade tanto to my BIL, so I ordered a cheaper Kershaw tanto to use as practice knife for the tanto shape.  I really do like the tanto shape, but the PITA aspect of sharpening was one of the main reasons that I stayed away from them for the most part. 

picked up a couple more Kershaw's.   
I already had the top one for maybe a month.  the Link.  which I like very much for a compact EDC.
the other 2 are similar in size, bottom one grip is about  .25" longer and is much slimmer than the other 2
top and bottom ones are made in USA, middle one is not although fit and finish are still good
for carry, maybe the bottom one is best just bc its slimmer and very lightweight.  otherwise each one is very good









Link:
SpeedSafe Assisted Opening
Blade Length: 3.25" (8.4 cm)
Handle Length: 4.4" (11.2 cm)
Overall Length: 7.6" (19.3 cm)
Blade Steel: 420HC, Black-Oxide Blackwash Finish
Handle Material: Machined Aluminum
Weight: 4.8 oz. (136.1 g)
Made in the USA

Vedder:
SpeedSafe Assisted Opening
Blade Length: 3.25" (8.3 cm)
Handle Length: 4.25" (10.8 cm)
Overall Length: 7.50" (19.0 cm)
Blade Steel: 8Cr13MoV Stainless Steel
Blade Shape: Sheepsfoot
Blade Finish: Gray Titanium Carbo-Nitride Coated
Handle Material: Gray Titanium Carbo-Nitride Coated Stainless Steel with 3D Machined G10 Overlays
Locking Mechanism: Frame Lock
Pocket Clip: Tip-Up, Right/Left Deep Carry
Weight: 4.1 oz. (118.0 g)

Knockout:
SpeedSafe Assisted Opening
Sub-Frame Lock
Flipper Mechanism
Deep Carry
Blade Length: 3.25"
Closed Length: 4.625"
Blade Steel: Sandvik 14C28N Stainless, Black DLC Coating
Handle Material: Aluminum
Made in the USA

Very nice Stang!   

The Vedder looks a lot like the ZT 0393SW that I was looking at.  I was close to getting the Link that you got because if the tanto shape.  I ended up with a Kershaw Emerson model.  I too like the assisted flipper opening knives.  You should do some side-by-side challenges/tests.   

I too have a couple of blades on the way that I found on sales recently.  That and just because I wanted them.  Haha

Lately, I've been carrying the ZT 0770 most days and the 0562 others.  Have been cleaning up stuff that involves breaking down old cardboard boxes, so they are getting some "real" use. 

Very nice Stang!   

The Vedder looks a lot like the ZT 0393SW that I was looking at.  I was close to getting the Link that you got because if the tanto shape.  I ended up with a Kershaw Emerson model.  I too like the assisted flipper opening knives.  You should do some side-by-side challenges/tests.   

I too have a couple of blades on the way that I found on sales recently.  That and just because I wanted them.  Haha

Lately, I've been carrying the ZT 0770 most days and the 0562 others.  Have been cleaning up stuff that involves breaking down old cardboard boxes, so they are getting some "real" use.

I was also looking at the Kershaw Bareknuckle 7777, based on the ZT 0777, which the ZT0770 I think is also based on.  although the Kershaw has cheaper steel and other differences than the ZT.
maybe one day I'll man up and get me a ZT blade.   

bottom one just came yesterday, it was sold out of the jade grip so it took a few weeks longer to get it.  top one I've had for a couple weeks already
its a copy of the 0456 ZT, but it is far from a ZT
opening, there seems to be some binding in the pivot or bearings, but its just not smooth
theres no branding on the knife, no D2 markings.  unlike the top knife
fit and finish on the bottom one isn't that good either.  lanyard hole, and screw holes aren't smoothed out.  seems like its a 80% knife kit that someone put together and didn't finish it that well.
and it only has 1 side of steel liner.  it has a liner lock, but the other side theres no steel liner only the G10 grip.  never seen that before.  probably not the best for stability and longevity.
overall I would not recommend getting the bottom knife

the top one however is much better and I would recommend getting it if you want a cheaper knife that works well and is a good buy for the money
top one opens smooth.  the detent and the bearings make it seem almost like its a assisted opener, I mean its really smooth.
fit and finish is very good too
top knife was $35, bottom knife was $25

another thing I noticed, the top knife says CH and has markings for D2 and came a box very similar to the Boker blades I have, and box said CH and some Chinese writings
bottom knife came in a different box that said Eafengrow, and no other markings on the knife
definitely 2 different levels of quality, but only $10 difference in price

bottom one just came yesterday, it was sold out of the jade grip so it took a few weeks longer to get it.  top one I've had for a couple weeks already
its a copy of the 0456 ZT, but it is far from a ZT
opening, there seems to be some binding in the pivot or bearings, but its just not smooth
theres no branding on the knife, no D2 markings.  unlike the top knife
fit and finish on the bottom one isn't that good either.  lanyard hole, and screw holes aren't smoothed out.  seems like its a 80% knife kit that someone put together and didn't finish it that well.
and it only has 1 side of steel liner.  it has a liner lock, but the other side theres no steel liner only the G10 grip.  never seen that before.  probably not the best for stability and longevity.
overall I would not recommend getting the bottom knife

the top one however is much better and I would recommend getting it if you want a cheaper knife that works well and is a good buy for the money
top one opens smooth.  the detent and the bearings make it seem almost like its a assisted opener, I mean its really smooth.
fit and finish is very good too
top knife was $35, bottom knife was $25

another thing I noticed, the top knife says CH and has markings for D2 and came a box very similar to the Boker blades I have, and box said CH and some Chinese writings
bottom knife came in a different box that said Eafengrow, and no other markings on the knife
definitely 2 different levels of quality, but only $10 difference in price

Interesting that the quality can vary that greatly between those two. Did you buy them from the same vendor?

Here are a couple that I bought just before Christmas.

The tanto is a Kershaw Emerson CQC-7K. At around $20, I assume it’s the low end version of the Emerson produced CQC. I bought it mainly to try out another tanto and a lesser expensive one to practice sharpening them. I have a couple of higher quality ones, but one was marked up through sharpening and general use.

For the Kershaw, I was disappointed with the quality.  I expected more from the Kershaw line, even the less expensive ones. The opening is pretty stiff. I tried applying oil and adjusting the pivot screw, but lightening seemed to have the blade get pushed against the side of the liner and made the opening worse. Then the frame lock was such that it is very tough to close the blade. Some working in and it’s a bit better, but it sometimes is still difficult to close.

The other is a Boker Caracal. Decently impressed with this one for the money. The opening was pretty smooth after applying a little oil. The blade is quite sharp and seems like it’s put together nicely. It’s my first Boker and am happy. I got this one as a test for this line as well as the D2 steel. Overall happy with this Boker and may try one of their fixed blades.

The bag is 12 capacity from BladeHQ. It can be hung from a hangar or has rings to be put on nails on a wall. I have mostly been rotating between three different ZTs, but the bag makes it easy to store the blades and pick one and go.

Tried the Spyderco Sharpmaker today. I was able to get a very good edge on one of my Kershaws, but definitely could use some practice. I added the extra fine stones and a strop. I got the knife very sharp, but not as sharp as I’d like them nor as sharp as the ZTs and Benchmades I have came new. Also not as sharp as they seem to be able to get them on the YouTube videos. I can get my kitchen knives that sharp with water stones, but I was looking for a sharpening system that was quicker than whetstones.

Will have to give this system some time and practice, especially with different steels. The one that I tried tonight was 8cr13mov, so “ok” steel.

Here are a couple that I bought just before Christmas.

The tanto is a Kershaw Emerson CQC-7K. At around $20, I assume it’s the low end version of the Emerson produced CQC. I bought it mainly to try out another tanto and a lesser expensive one to practice sharpening them. I have a couple of higher quality ones, but one was marked up through sharpening and general use.

For the Kershaw, I was disappointed with the quality.  I expected more from the Kershaw line, even the less expensive ones. The opening is pretty stiff. I tried applying oil and adjusting the pivot screw, but lightening seemed to have the blade get pushed against the side of the liner and made the opening worse. Then the frame lock was such that it is very tough to close the blade. Some working in and it’s a bit better, but it sometimes is still difficult to close.

Most of the Emerson knives I had needed some tweaking and breaking in. If the lock is a little stiff, mark it up with a pencil. The graphite will lubricate the lock surfaces.

Most of the Emerson knives I had needed some tweaking and breaking in. If the lock is a little stiff, mark it up with a pencil. The graphite will lubricate the lock surfaces.

use spit

use spit

 

Interesting that the quality can vary that greatly between those two. Did you buy them from the same vendor?

Both from Amazon, but ships from Eafengrow
Just 2 different levels of quality
Now, after applying some oil to the pivot and just opening it over and over, the 0456 is smooth opening but I still dont like that it only has 1 side of steel liner. It's ok for a box cutter, but defense i wouldn't depend on it too much

Glad you like the Boker Caracal. I have 2 Boker folders both by the same designer as your Caracal. The wildcat i really like, but the masada has a really weak detent so i really have to push it hard and fast to open it well. I might try bend the liner a bit and see if that helps

Now I'm looking at a ZT 0350 as a birthday present for my nephew who is a LEO. More of an EDC for him. I want to get him something good, but I dont want to break my wallet either.

    Man, do all of you guys sleep with your blades    or am I just abusive  ?
Their all so nice and pretty, clean and unscathed. 

    I must pull my EDC (Kershaw),at least  3-4 times a day and must sharpen regularily.
I use Kershaw, CRKT and Benchmade but I am looking for a decent "Working mans" EDC fixed blade.
There are so many blade materials and types it's mind boggling. 
Any advice ? 

Most of the Emerson knives I had needed some tweaking and breaking in. If the lock is a little stiff, mark it up with a pencil. The graphite will lubricate the lock surfaces.

Thanks. I tried the pencil trick and it seemed to help. I had assumed it would loosen up as I used it, but none of my other knives, even cheaper or budget ones weren’t like that. To the point where I thought I might need a screw driver to pry the locking bar to open. Since it’s a frame lock, have to be careful with the lock on the “sharp” side of the blade.