So I'm troubleshooting why my new Vortex Crossfire II isn't as accurate as I'd like. The manufacturer replied to my email and asked if I'm using the torque spec of 15-18 in/lbs. on the ring caps. I asked if the scope is more sensitive to torque than others. He said only because our Erector tubes (inner tube w/ reticle) are larger than most in the industry, and that gives them superior optical quality for the price.

This mostly makes sense to me. Is this why torque is so important when mounting scopes? Everything that I've read just says to use the torque specs because it's a good idea. Some advice to just tighten plus a quarter turn using the good-n-tight method. I've ordered a Wheeler torque wrench from Amazon but will take two weeks to get here. I've seen them for sale locally but can't remember where.

So I'm troubleshooting why my new Vortex Crossfire II isn't as accurate as I'd like. The manufacturer replied to my email and asked if I'm using the torque spec of 15-18 in/lbs. on the ring caps. I asked if the scope is more sensitive to torque than others. He said only because our Erector tubes (inner tube w/ reticle) are larger than most in the industry, and that gives them superior optical quality for the price.

This mostly makes sense to me. Is this why torque is so important when mounting scopes? Everything that I've read just says to use the torque specs because it's a good idea. Some advice to just tighten plus a quarter turn using the good-n-tight method. I've ordered a Wheeler torque wrench from Amazon but will take two weeks to get here. I've seen them for sale locally but can't remember where.

I bought these tools for mounting scopes:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002PQKGSI/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

It came with everything, including the torque driver.

The main thing is lapping the rings if needed.  Mount the rings independent of the scope, then lap the rings to make them even with each other while mounted.  When you put the scope in the mounts, the tube should be perfectly seated with no binding, gaps or wobble.

The minor imperfections of ring misalignment can be a problem.  When you adjust the scope at the range, you assume it's perpendicular to the rifle at all points front to back, and it's parallel to the barrel. It you raise & lower the POA, or move it left & right, you expect it to track on that plane.  If it's not perfectly mounted, the adjustments will be slightly diagonal of vertical or horizontal.

Just something I've been doing.  Seems to correct many issues sighting my scopes.

Thanks. I canceled my previous order and got this instead plus it will arrive faster.

Thanks. I canceled my previous order and got this instead plus it will arrive faster.

I don't know what you had paid for the torque driver, but I think for the price of the kit, you'll be very happy.

Not sure if I want to spoil the surprise ......

Oh, sure I do!!     For the size, that kit is HEAVY!!  The ring alignment bars and lapping rods are solid metal.  So, be expecting it when you pick up the box.

There are plenty of online tutorials and videos on how to properly mount a scope including using the lapping hardware. 

If you don't have a rifle rest or gun vise that clamps the gun to keep it steady, you'll need one unless you figure out a way to do it such as with a shop vise and shooting rest.  The point is, the rifle needs to be "squared".   The bore (not necessarily the barrel) needs to be parallel with the ground, front to rear, and the rifle, usually checked using the rails or iron sight bases, leveled left to right.

First, attach the rings.  You might need to loosely install the scope to get an idea of where you want the rings mounted.  If so, install the rings first, and then attach the scope.  Some dovetail rails are so small, if you attach the scope to the rings first, it can be a bear to slide the rings on!  Check eye relief, height, bolt interference, where the optical parts on the tube will rest before and after the rings -- all the normal issues need to be looked at before deciding where you want the rings attached to the rifle.

Once the rings are attached and torqued to spec , follow the directions to check alignment with the bars.  If the rings need lapping, do a little and check, a little more and check, ...  Keep doing that until you have two well-aligned rings.

Even if the alignment looks close at first check, I always do some lapping to remove burrs, excess finish, or whatever else might cause a less-than-smooth surface inside the rings.  Solid contact between ring and scope is the goal.

Then I use the levels.  One on top of the barrel if it's not tapered, or any part of the barrel that should be in line with the bore and parallel with the ground, like where the iron sights mount or on the scope rail
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Then I put the second level on a flat part that should also be parallel with the ground left to right.  Don't use the rings unless you know the base is parallel with the top, flat part.  On some rifles, the front sight base works for me.  Sometimes I use the breach.  Depends on where a flat surface is that the magnet will hold to.  One bubble goes front-to-back, and one goes left-to-right.  It's basically a gyroscope, leveling on 2 axes at the same time.  Clamp the rifle so it doesn't shift.

Now you can install and adjust the scope by leaving the rings loose and turning the scope to get the retical squared -- if you get the vertical line squared, I bet the horizontal line will be, too -- but don't quote me!  I use a vertical straight line I already checked to be vertically 90 degrees from ground, like a cabinet edge or doorway.  Tighten the rings to spec after making sure the rifle is still squared,  It can move as you work on the scope.

Next, I use a boresight laser to get the retical close to center Point of Aim.  I have a Wheeler green laser boresighter that's magnetic and sticks to the front of the barrel as opposed to the through-the-bore lasers.  Most bores will be 90 degrees to the front edge of the muzzle.  Adjust the scope crosshairs to center on the laser.  That should be very close to sighted.  If you have iron sights you can still look through and were sighted in, you can also verify the scope and irons are pointing at the same mark. 

I'm not an expert, but that's my "way".   I've read many say this whole mounting and lapping should take about 30 minutes.  That's about right for me, if I don't run into any snags, like dropping screws that disappear and changing my mind where I want the rings mounted.

** Make sure you research and read the instructions for whatever rings/mount you buy.  They aren't all going to work the same.  Here's an example.

http://warnescopemounts.com/is-lapping-needed/

Good luck.  I like to learn how this stuff works -- part of the fun of having any hobby.  If you find out something that can help simplify this, please feel free to add it.  I have no delusions that this is a perfect "How-To", and would be interested if you find and share anything that seems to work better.

 

Not sure if I want to spoil the surprise ......
Oh, sure I do!!     For the size, that kit is HEAVY!!  The ring alignment bars and lapping rods are solid metal.  So, be expecting it when you pick up the box.

Thank God for Amazon Prime!

Good luck.  I like to learn how this stuff works -- part of the fun of having any hobby.  If you find out something that can help simplify this, please feel free to add it.  I have no delusions that this is a perfect "How-To", and would be interested if you find and share anything that seems to work better.

I took the scope off and it appears that two of the screws may not have been tightened as I like which could explain the results. But now that I've done more research, I've got the bug in my ear to use the mounting kit you suggested. (I'm not saying you're a bug.) This is my first actual precision scope so now I know.