It's not a function of the cost of the rifle (and not just the upper).  It's a philosophy that you should use your budget wisely.  Rather than buy a $1000 rifle and a $100 scope, buy a $800 rifle and a $200+ scope.

The higher the caliber, the more you should spend, both for longer range quality and to keep the more powerful round from damaging the optic.   Recoil can be a real scope killer.

Scope bite or scope kiss happens, too.  That's not good for the scope OR your face!

Great, it will take a year for me to save up for a $800 scope to put on a $200 rifle.  The purpose of the upper was to fool around with at the range (figure of speech), not buy a $800 scope for it.

Great, it will take a year for me to save up for a $800 scope to put on a $200 rifle.  The purpose of the upper was to fool around with at the range (figure of speech), not buy a $800 scope for it.

Did you miss my questions in an earlier post?


What rifle do you need the Nikon for?  300BLK?

Looking for magnification?

Did you miss my questions in an earlier post?


What rifle do you need the Nikon for?  300BLK?

Looking for magnification?

Sorry, yes it's for my $200 300BLK upper.

I like 16x but would be happy with 9x until I get the Barska back. Come to think of it, I do have a spare reddot hanging around. I should use that.

Sorry, yes it's for my $200 300BLK upper.

I like 16x but would be happy with 9x until I get the Barska back. Come to think of it, I do have a spare reddot hanging around. I should use that.

Just curious.  You know the more magnification you use, the more the target "dances" in the viewfinder, making a steady hold more difficult?

Here's something I'd consider buying for a 300BLK.  All my nikons have been flawless and work great.  I like their Bullet Drop reticles, too.

http://www.opticsplanet.com/nikon-p-300-blk-blackout-2-7x32-supersub-reticle.html

or you can just throw a GI carry handle on it and clamp on front sight - cheapest way
a higher mag scope will magnify everything: your position and the target

If you like magnification, Might check out the Vortex Crossfire 2 line.

Pretty reasonable and pretty dang clear.
Set up my daughters "sniper" PSA upper wih a 4-12x and we really like it.
Of course I splurged on the UTG rings. 

https://www.amazon.com/Vortex-Crossfire-4-12x44-Riflescope-Deadhold/dp/B00794LIXS/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1492062543&sr=8-6&keywords=vortex+crossfire+ii

Just curious.  You know the more magnification you use, the more the target "dances" in the viewfinder, making a steady hold more difficult?

The 24x was impractical but I can hold the 16x fairly well on my AR-15. I'm seriously thinking of the Nikon even though it is 7x. My eyes are getting old and it's difficult to see the 2" target at 100 yards with the cheap 9x scope I have on the VEPR. Perhaps I'll get the 7x and use the 4" targets or stick to 50 yards.

If you like magnification, Might check out the Vortex Crossfire 2 line.
https://www.amazon.com/Vortex-Crossfire-4-12x44-Riflescope-Deadhold/dp/B00794LIXS/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1492062543&sr=8-6&keywords=vortex+crossfire+ii

I got my Crossfire II 16x on sale from Midway for $140. I also have Nikon rings. I'll try to post a photo tomorrow. I'm not sure if I want to buy two though.

The 24x was impractical but I can hold the 16x fairly well on my AR-15. I'm seriously thinking of the Nikon even though it is 7x. My eyes are getting old and it's difficult to see the 2" target at 100 yards with the cheap 9x scope I have on the VEPR. Perhaps I'll get the 7x and use the 4" targets or stick to 50 yards.
I got my Crossfire II 16x on sale from Midway for $140. I also have Nikon rings. I'll try to post a photo tomorrow. I'm not sure if I want to buy two though.

If you can still see through the 16X, take it outside and find a 100 Yd target to look at about the size of your normal dot.  If the magnification goes to 7x, you can see how that works for you.  If you can't make out the target, maybe it's not the scope.  If you wear glasses, try with and without them on.  Sometimes the focal adjustment on the scope is strong enough to avoid you having to wear glasses.  More than one way to skin a cat!

http://www.opticsplanet.com/nikon-p-300-blk-blackout-2-7x32-supersub-reticle.html

Doesn't look like it has a parallax adjustment that allows me to dial in the distance. My cheap 9x doesn't have that so I have to turn it down to 6x to make the target clearer.

This is the one that I have and sending back to fix.
http://www.opticsplanet.com/barska-4-16x40-ir-point-black-223-b-d-c-riflescope-black-matte-3g-ir-reticle.html

or you can just throw a GI carry handle on it and clamp on front sight - cheapest way
a higher mag scope will magnify everything: your position and the target

I'll try using the reddot I've had laying around for awhile but forgot about.

The thing is that I paid $230 for the upper so how much should I pay for a scope, $500? It's not intended to be a precise weapon. I was happy with the scope before although I only spent $150 on it. I guess I'll send it back, pay the $20, and wait for two months. I still have 3 other rifles I can play with.

Sure! Why not?  Although paying $500 is double the cost of the upper it can be used on more than one rifle. With the quality of the scope rail systems etc. today a lot of shooter's/hunter's are going that route to maximize their dollar.  Without knowing the make/model of your other weapons this may or may not be a possibility.  Although I have a bunch of high end optics like NF, S&B, Lightforce (Before it was Nightforce), Kahles, USO etc.  Our number of weapons far outnumber them so we use some optics for multiple weapons.  Holding zero hasn't been much of an issue when buying quality components and even if adjustments have to be made they are repeatable every time.  I routinely use only one S&B for load testing up to 3 rifles at a time sometimes more depending on the situation.

Your statement of it not intended to be a precise weapon contradicts putting a scope on it.  I'm not speaking in the sense that it's intended to be sub-moa etc but in the sense that putting a telescopic sight on it was done for the purpose of more precision. Make sense? 

There's a lot of good free advice given here but in the end you will make the decision that best suits you.  Wish you the best!

Aloha and Good Shooting!

   

Doesn't look like it has a parallax adjustment that allows me to dial in the distance. My cheap 9x doesn't have that so I have to turn it down to 6x to make the target clearer.

According to the Nikon manual, the parallax distance is factory set to 100 yds.  The adjustable eyepiece can help focus on the reticle for other distances.  POA for that rifle beyond 100 yds would not be that far off due to parallax. 

Being that you can't shoot past 100 yds at KHSC, what's the maximum distance at which you'd use this scope/rifle?

Your statement of it not intended to be a precise weapon contradicts putting a scope on it.  I'm not speaking in the sense that it's intended to be sub-moa etc but in the sense that putting a telescopic sight on it was done for the purpose of more precision. Make sense? 

Which is why I decided to add a reddot and see how that goes.

According to the Nikon manual, the parallax distance is factory set to 100 yds.  The adjustable eyepiece can help focus on the reticle for other distances.  POA for that rifle beyond 100 yds would not be that far off due to parallax. 
Being that you can't shoot past 100 yds at KHSC, what's the maximum distance at which you'd use this scope/rifle?

You see when you get old, your eyes have trouble focusing and you start to need assistance. Don't worry young man, it will happen. 

Which is why I decided to add a reddot and see how that goes.
You see when you get old, your eyes have trouble focusing and you start to need assistance. Don't worry young man, it will happen. 

I'm flattered!

I guess if Trump can start a new job at 70, I'm not that old myself!

I had lasik back in 2004, but started using reading glasses a few years later.  So far, distance is still 20/20, and my reading prescription is relatively weak.  I wore glasses since 5th grade, and contacts since 1985.  I got my bad vision out of my system the first half of my life!     

The thing is that I paid $230 for the upper so how much should I pay for a scope, $500? It's not intended to be a precise weapon. I was happy with the scope before although I only spent $150 on it. I guess I'll send it back, pay the $20, and wait for two months. I still have 3 other rifles I can play with.

In the end, you get what you pay for.  In addition to the cost of the optic itself, I also factor in warranty and manufacturer reputation with regards to warranty service.  I've only had second hand personal experience with CS from Leupold, Vortex, Trijicon and Aimpoint and they've all be EXCELLENT!  I'll gladly pay more for quality optics like those and CS to back it up. 

Seems like you are ok with going the cheap route overall.  That said, you're only putting yourself at risk for more headaches in the future.  Yeah, nothing may happen, but it's the times when something does happen when it really "counts".  Personally, something crapping out on me, or something going where I can't be confident in the item would drive me nuts!  It's not worth trying to get by with a $200 optic that might do the job, where I have a much higher confidence level that a $500-600 optic has proven to get the job done.  It's all about what you want and you seem set on justifying going the cheap route, so carry on. . .

It's all about what you want and you seem set on justifying going the cheap route, so carry on. . .

I find more enjoyment in trying to get more mileage out of a $700 rifle rather than a $3,000 rifle. I once drove a Ford Tempo for 230k miles. Remember, the OP was me asking if the $20 warranty fee was reasonable. The rest of the discussion was gravy.

I find more enjoyment in trying to get more mileage out of a $700 rifle rather than a $3,000 rifle. I once drove a Ford Tempo for 230k miles. Remember, the OP was me asking if the $20 warranty fee was reasonable. The rest of the discussion was gravy.

I hear ya.  For me, the enjoyment is in the shooting of the gun and avoiding the headache of dealing with issues often associated with cheap components.  Be it the gun, optics, etc. 

And my comments were related to your question in the OP.  Many optics companies have a lifetime warranty and pretty much no questions asked.  I have dozens of stories where the user admitted to being the cause of the issue and companies like Vortex and others fixed the issue a no charge (well, beyond the shipping).  My point was I factor that value into the equation when I look to buy.

I hear ya.  For me, the enjoyment is in the shooting of the gun and avoiding the headache of dealing with issues often associated with cheap components.  Be it the gun, optics, etc. 

That's too safe for me. For example my signature below. Maybe if I went hunting I'd want more expensive equipment. Maybe if I had a hi-powered 30-06 rifle. I used to have a 7x scope on my Mosin Nagant 54r but was too punishing so I swapped with an airsoft reddot and has been working great for the past year.

And my comments were related to your question in the OP.  Many optics companies have a lifetime warranty and pretty much no questions asked.  I have dozens of stories where the user admitted to being the cause of the issue and companies like Vortex and others fixed the issue a no charge (well, beyond the shipping).  My point was I factor that value into the equation when I look to buy.

I'm not sure yet if Barska sucks. Other than the $20 and the initial shipment cost, I haven't got any push back from them yet. I guess we'll see after two months. I've looked through their documentation and haven't found a recommended torque setting for the scope rings. If/when the new scope arrives, I'll call to find out before mounting on the rifle again.

That's too safe for me. For example my signature below. Maybe if I went hunting I'd want more expensive equipment. Maybe if I had a hi-powered 30-06 rifle. I used to have a 7x scope on my Mosin Nagant 54r but was too punishing so I swapped with an airsoft reddot and has been working great for the past year.
I'm not sure yet if Barska sucks. Other than the $20 and the initial shipment cost, I haven't got any push back from them yet. I guess we'll see after two months. I've looked through their documentation and haven't found a recommended torque setting for the scope rings. If/when the new scope arrives, I'll call to find out before mounting on the rifle again.

A successful day at the range means you leave with more questions than answers.

That is NOT me for sure.  A successful range day is getting what I need to get done, say zeroing an optic, test function, etc.  Otherwise, it's generally relaxing with no need to trouble shoot anything.  That said, I understand your perspective and your choice.    

If you REALLY want a challenge with optics, questions, etc.  You should look into companies like NCStar, Leapers, etc.  Those companies will definitely offer you many successful range days!   

That's too safe for me. For example my signature below. Maybe if I went hunting I'd want more expensive equipment. Maybe if I had a hi-powered 30-06 rifle. I used to have a 7x scope on my Mosin Nagant 54r but was too punishing so I swapped with an airsoft reddot and has been working great for the past year.
I'm not sure yet if Barska sucks. Other than the $20 and the initial shipment cost, I haven't got any push back from them yet. I guess we'll see after two months. I've looked through their documentation and haven't found a recommended torque setting for the scope rings. If/when the new scope arrives, I'll call to find out before mounting on the rifle again.

The link you posted for the Barska scope didn't include rings.  Normally, the torque specs are given by the ring manufacturer.  For example: