I had a few people suggest snap caps since I'm new to fire arms to practice reloading and dry fire. i just got them in i ordered 45 auto for my 45acp 1911 and they don't sit in the barrel correctly so the slide does not go all the way forward has anyone experienced this before?

They break. Reload a dummy case

Try another brand and email that company, it no fit.

Also if you do go the route of using spent brass, I would color the brass a different color.  That way there is no confusion when press checking.  That's also why I don't buy the snap caps that are brass that have the orange "heads".  I got the all red ones.

If the snap caps dont chamber, they are either not to spec, or there is something out of spec in the gun.  New 1911s tend to be quite tight and need some break in as well, so keep that in mind.  If lightly tapping the back of the slide doesnt put it into battery, I wouldn't force it as that snap cap might get stuck in there or break your extractor.

You had mentioned wanting to practice reloading and dry firing, so you'll want a snap cap that is actually a snap cap.  Some of the colored variety A-zoom branded ones are more "action proving devices" rather than something for your firing pin to bang against to prevent damage.  If you look at where the primer pocket is, and its indented in farther than your firing pin will hit, its an action proving device and is doing squat to prevent damage to your firing pin assembly.

For the "snap cap" effect, I like the clear tipton brand ones that have a brass piece that has a spring attached to it to absorb some of the blow.  These generally last pretty long.  I also make my own snap caps using spent brass and primer pockets filled with cut firm erasers or hot glue.  Then I swap the eraser/glue when they get beat up by the firing pins.

Edit: One other thing I forgot to mention since new shooter and new gun.  If you're helping the slide forward rather than letting it slam home on its own, that might be a reason why it wont go into battery. 

That your snap caps don't chamber is a little concerning.  Like mentioned already, make sure you allow the full spring force to work.  Pull the slide all the way back and let it go.  Riding the slide forward can cause the slide to stop just short.  I see that often when loading a new magazine.  With 1911s, the boolit head shape can cause some hangup upon chambering a round as well. 

I have a bunch of those A-Zoom snap caps for handguns and rifles and I like them.  They are pretty pricey though.  I also have a bunch with the orange boolits and they work great too.  The orange ones can be easier to find.  Even the orange boolit ones aren't cheap, but they aren't too bad on Amazon.   

If the snap caps dont chamber, they are either not to spec, or there is something out of spec in the gun.  New 1911s tend to be quite tight and need some break in as well, so keep that in mind.  If lightly tapping the back of the slide doesnt put it into battery, I wouldn't force it as that snap cap might get stuck in there or break your extractor.

You had mentioned wanting to practice reloading and dry firing, so you'll want a snap cap that is actually a snap cap.  Some of the colored variety A-zoom branded ones are more "action proving devices" rather than something for your firing pin to bang against to prevent damage.  If you look at where the primer pocket is, and its indented in farther than your firing pin will hit, its an action proving device and is doing squat to prevent damage to your firing pin assembly.

For the "snap cap" effect, I like the clear tipton brand ones that have a brass piece that has a spring attached to it to absorb some of the blow.  These generally last pretty long.  I also make my own snap caps using spent brass and primer pockets filled with cut firm erasers or hot glue.  Then I swap the eraser/glue when they get beat up by the firing pins.

Edit: One other thing I forgot to mention since new shooter and new gun.  If you're helping the slide forward rather than letting it slam home on its own, that might be a reason why it wont go into battery.

I've heard a lot of concerns about dry firing 1911s.  From what I can tell, one of the risks of dry firing is potentially breaking the firing pin stop, but I've heard that it's not really a concern on most quality 1911s and would take millions of dry fire pulls.  I've also read where allowing the slide to slam forward can ruin a good trigger job.  I know of 1911 fans that won't dry fire their 1911s at all and some won't dry fire without snap caps.  I've always wondered how much was truth and how much was myth.  I've even read where some 1911 folks advocate replacing firing pin springs after a certain amount of dry firing.   

My only 1911 is a budget RIA one.  I don't shoot that gun very often, but I used to dry fire it quite a bit.  That said, my 1911 isn't a very nice one.  When I was thinking about getting a nicer SA 1911 or even a Wilson Combat, I read where Bill Wilson said go ahead and dry fire often.  No harm. 

I dry fire all of my centerfire firearms and majority is without snap caps. 

I've heard a lot of concerns about dry firing 1911s.  From what I can tell, one of the risks of dry firing is potentially breaking the firing pin stop, but I've heard that it's not really a concern on most quality 1911s and would take millions of dry fire pulls.  I've also read where allowing the slide to slam forward can ruin a good trigger job.  I know of 1911 fans that won't dry fire their 1911s at all and some won't dry fire without snap caps.  I've always wondered how much was truth and how much was myth.  I've even read where some 1911 folks advocate replacing firing pin springs after a certain amount of dry firing.   

My only 1911 is a budget RIA one.  I don't shoot that gun very often, but I used to dry fire it quite a bit.  That said, my 1911 isn't a very nice one.  When I was thinking about getting a nicer SA 1911 or even a Wilson Combat, I read where Bill Wilson said go ahead and dry fire often.  No harm. 

I dry fire all of my centerfire firearms and majority is without snap caps.

Its all talk until it happens to you, I suppose.  On a budget 1911 or something easy to work on, its not a big deal other than your gun being down for shipping and repair times and maybe $20-30 in parts. 

I've always been cautious with rimfires, as by nature they'll beat a divot where it'l cause chambering problems.  I don't like to keep the hammers cocked on my guns for storage so I'll throw a spent 22 case into the chambers before letting the hammer/striker drop to mitigate this.  Some 22s you dont have this problem.

As for centerfires, I've broken a firing pin from dry fire.  This is the reason I'm paranoid now.  It will be all good, all the time, until it isnt.  I wasn't dry firing - I had a spent case in there, but the spent primer got so beat up that it wasnt absorbing any of the blow from the hammer drop so it was basically dry firing.  All was well, until I took it to the range.  First shot attempt, strange clicky noise.  Dropped the mag - firing pin fell out with it 

Edit: Centerfire pistol that had a broken pin was not a 1911, but similar browning design (Colt 1903)

Its all talk until it happens to you, I suppose.  On a budget 1911 or something easy to work on, its not a big deal other than your gun being down for shipping and repair times and maybe $20-30 in parts. 

I've always been cautious with rimfires, as by nature they'll beat a divot where it'l cause chambering problems.  I don't like to keep the hammers cocked on my guns for storage so I'll throw a spent 22 case into the chambers before letting the hammer/striker drop to mitigate this.  Some 22s you dont have this problem.

As for centerfires, I've broken a firing pin from dry fire.  This is the reason I'm paranoid now.  It will be all good, all the time, until it isnt.  I wasn't dry firing - I had a spent case in there, but the spent primer got so beat up that it wasnt absorbing any of the blow from the hammer drop so it was basically dry firing.  All was well, until I took it to the range.  First shot attempt, strange clicky noise.  Dropped the mag - firing pin fell out with it 

Edit: Centerfire pistol that had a broken pin was not a 1911, but similar browning design (Colt 1903)

Yeah. I hear ya. While I’ve never experienced as problem with dry firing, I am curious, particularly for 1911s since I don’t have that much experience with them. Most of the guns that I dry fire are striker fired handguns and ARs and AKs.

I don’t dry fire my 22s. My 22 pistol has a magazine disconnect. That and I don’t really shoot that gun that much anymore. I’ve heard many cautions about dry firing 22 as well, but my understanding is because it’s a rimfire. I’ve heard many who gave said dry fire for rimfire is ok too, but I generally don’t.

Have ya looked at the firing pin on a 1911? You could drive it into a 2x4 with a hammer, pull it out, and repeat. Plus the pin itself tapers, as does the channel. Barring manufacturing defects, dry firing won't hurt it.

Have ya looked at the firing pin on a 1911? You could drive it into a 2x4 with a hammer, pull it out, and repeat. Plus the pin itself tapers, as does the channel. Barring manufacturing defects, dry firing won't hurt it.

No.  Don't think I've taken my 1911 apart that far yet.   

You're looking at the whole firing pin breaking the wrong way. Assume it breaks after 5000 dry fires, that's still cheaper than 5000 rounds. That's not including the time you need to set aside to go to the range x amount of times to fire all those rounds. Stacked against all that it makes more than enough sense to dry fire 20 mins everyday

I hear you guys, and I do believe in "dry fire" practice.  I use one of those laser cartridges and app to play with my glock at home.  I'll shoot the thing until my fingers cannot squeeze anymore.

For glocks, I'd dry fire the thing all day long and not give a rip.  Theres something about a hammer hitting another piece of metal and how the force transfers through the metal to hit the firing pin.  My firing pin broke right where the fat part got skinny and it cracked like a glass rod would.  The 1903 is a 2 part firing pin to fit into the slide but a similar design to the 1911.  My gun WAS over 100 years old when it broke, so theres that too 

They break. Reload a dummy case

====
The OP is a newbie. I don't think he reloads ammo.

When I make pistol dummies, I drop a sheet metal screw inside the case to prevent setback.
Then fill the pocket with silicone glue. It lasts a pretty long time.

I've used ST Action Pro dummy rounds for many years.  Never had an issue.

Careful if you order on Amazon.  I've read reports the plastic inserts crack on those after little use.  Also, one Amazon listing said of a .45 ACP ST Action dummy: "Not intended for dry fire". 

I have a feeling some of these are not factory products, but maybe knock-offs.  Just my feeling, based on the price and comments/description.

The inserts are recessed from the primer pocket, preventing any damage to the firing pin.

http://www.stactionpro.com/

I've used ST Action Pro dummy rounds for many years.  Never had an issue.

Careful if you order on Amazon.  I've read reports the plastic inserts crack on those after little use.  Also, one Amazon listing said of a .45 ACP ST Action dummy: "Not intended for dry fire". 

I have a feeling some of these are not factory products, but maybe knock-offs.  Just my feeling, based on the price and comments/description.

The inserts are recessed from the primer pocket, preventing any damage to the firing pin.

http://www.stactionpro.com/

I've got a set of those in 9mm.  Orange fake bullet and recessed orange rubber thingy in the primer pocket in some kind of crappy silver colored casing.  I dont believe theyre intended for dry fire because of the exact reason you said - the inserts are recessed in the primer pocket and the firing pin wont touch it.  Firing pin has to have some kind of cushion for when it thwacks, otherwise, its kinda like you punching the air full force(not a great analogy, I know) - it hurts more than when you hit something solid. 

I believe those are more "action proving devices" - intended to assist new shooters in reloading magazines and cycling rounds through for unloading practice, etc.

If I were to buy a set now, I'd get these.  Not the most accurate rounds in terms of shape, but the design is great for saving your firing pin assemblies.  They do wear out though.  I honestly don't know how great they cycle in semi autos as I've only used the revolver caliber ones, but theyre made of plastic, so yea.

https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1903213850/tipton-snap-cap-polymer

I've got a set of those in 9mm.  Orange fake bullet and recessed orange rubber thingy in the primer pocket in some kind of crappy silver colored casing.  I dont believe theyre intended for dry fire because of the exact reason you said - the inserts are recessed in the primer pocket and the firing pin wont touch it.  Firing pin has to have some kind of cushion for when it thwacks, otherwise, its kinda like you punching the air full force(not a great analogy, I know) - it hurts more than when you hit something solid. 

I believe those are more "action proving devices" - intended to assist new shooters in reloading magazines and cycling rounds through for unloading practice, etc.

If I were to buy a set now, I'd get these.  Not the most accurate rounds in terms of shape, but the design is great for saving your firing pin assemblies.  They do wear out though.  I honestly don't know how great they cycle in semi autos as I've only used the revolver caliber ones, but theyre made of plastic, so yea.

https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1903213850/tipton-snap-cap-polymer

The "Most Liked Negative Review" at the link you posted says:

These Snap Caps do not Meet SAAMI Specs

I decided to try these after looking into reviews on Snap Caps. I have used many snap caps in the past,
but wanted to try these for my .45ACP pistols. When I received them, I had a problem with them feeding
into my Sig 1911. I decided to try them in my Sig P220 and had the same issue. After it failed to load in 2
pistols, I tried them in my .45ACP case gage and found they would not fit in that either.

After getting out my Caliper, I found these were .003-.008 above the SAAMI spec of .477 max. I worked with
a Tech from Tipton and they sent me another replacement set. The replacement set had the same issue.
I have the same Snap caps from Tipton for the 9mm and .40S&W and they work just fine in all of my pistols
in those calibers. I sent another message to the Tipton tech over a month ago and have not received any
response back from them.

If you are having problems feeding or extracting, this might be the same issue you are having as well on their
.45ACP snap caps. Until their engineering corrects the issue, I would steer clear of this caliber from them.
Otherwise, the other caliber snap caps have worked out just fine.

The "Most Liked Negative Review" at the link you posted says:

Hah yea, I just saw that.  Like I said, I dont have those in semiauto versions.  The OP is looking at 45 so please disregard what I posted.

The firing pin/snap cap debate is not likely to end soon - its one of those things that works, until it doesnt.  You could go your whole life not breaking a firing pin and scoff at me for being so cautious because you've never had a problem personally. 

I'm just going to leave my personal experience here.  I've got a youtube video showing my broken 1903 pin replacement if you guys care to see what the pin looked like when it cracked and how easy it was to replace it.

So being a newbie i had my dummy moment i read somewhere in here that said to let the slide slam and that worked i guess i was just being to soft with my pistol. I've been doing allot of research to learn more and more about pistols, cant wait till i finally get to take it to ukumehame on Sunday to finally test my 1911 out.

So being a newbie i had my dummy moment i read somewhere in here that said to let the slide slam and that worked i guess i was just being to soft with my pistol. I've been doing allot of research to learn more and more about pistols, cant wait till i finally get to take it to ukumehame on Sunday to finally test my 1911 out.

Don't be shy about letting the slide slam home.  When you pull the trigger and it goes bang, its doing that every time.

I had a 1911 with a Kart barrel that hated snap caps, they would get jammed up and sometimes even have to get tapped out with a stick.  I threw away the snap caps.

The problem might be a nice tight match type chamber.  That pistol was very accurate.  I dry fired it thousands of times with out any snap caps and fired it as many(mostly soft target loads).  Nothing but normal wear.


Just be sure to put away all live rounds, lock em up/hide them/what ever, double/triple/quadruple check the chamber clear, snap in a safe direction.   snap away