What is the proper bench vice  accessory to use when removing/installing a muzzle device on an arfifteen?

From what I can tell, the differences are that the the reaction rod goes into the upper receiver and engages the barrel extension and bolt lugs and that’s what is being torqued against.   The Vice blocks clamp the exterior of the upper receiver and that is what is being torqued against. 

I’m not sure of one is more fit than the other for muzzle device installs.

I’m sure there’s more to it , hopefully someone can chime in.

When installing a muzzle device all the torque is going to the barrel so any tool that holds the barrel such as barrel blocks that hold the barrel in a vise. If you clamp the upper receiver all that torque will be transferred to the receiver and run the risk of breaking it. I've read about some users who sheared the barrel pin off when torquing with a reaction rod too. This tool prevents that https://www.joeboboutfitters.com/Midwest-Industries-AR-15-Upper-Receiver-Rod-p/mi-urr.htm

If the barrel isn't covered by a handguard, you can use a barrel block / jaws / block pair in the vise to hold the barrel near the muzzle.  That keeps all the torque away from the receiver and barrel nut.  Some just use thick pieces of leather to protect the rifle as they place it in the vise.

If the barrel is covered and you don't want to, or can't, remove the handguard, the next best thing is a reaction rod.  It keeps the torque inside the barrel and away from the receiver.

After that is a receiver clamp/blocks.  This fits around the outside of the receiver in a vise and adds structural support to the receiver to prevent damage.

Last choice I'd pick is a mag well vise block.  This is inserted into the receiver through the mag well and puts all the force when tensioning the muzzle device on a very small portion of the receiver.

I also have a vise block that uses the upper receiver holes where the pin holds the upper and lower receivers together.  I would not recommend that for this operation.  You'd be transferring all the force to 2 small protrusions on the upper, and it's probably not going to work out for you.

Read the muzzle device manufacturer's instruction on torque.  If you have an armorer's tool that lets you use a torque wrench, keep the ft-lbs in the range they specify.  Normal range is 15-20 ft-lbs, but they vary.  You shouldn't be cranking it with a 5 ft pipe for extra leverage.  Use crush washers, spring washers and shims as needed to align the timing if required.  Once the device makes contact with the "lip" at the bottom of the threads, you should not need to go past one more revolution.

In cases where the muzzle device is hard to remove, try heat in case they used thread locker, and make sure the welded pin is totally removed if there was one.

 

Thanks you guys for the info!  I hope to god no one licked those threads! hahahah

Thanks you guys for the info!  I hope to god no one licked those threads! hahahah

Don't quit your day job!   

 

free float handguard is easy enough to remove install to get access to the barrel.  Barrel blocks seem bit cheaper then reaction rods, so if I don't need the tool yet then I can get the barrel blocks for now.  It will probably be a while till I need to change barrels, and that would probably require a bit more tooling than just a reaction rod

Thanks you guys for the info!  I hope to god no one licked those threads! hahahah

heads

free float handguard is easy enough to remove install to get access to the barrel.  Barrel blocks seem bit cheaper then reaction rods, so if I don't need the tool yet then I can get the barrel blocks for now.  It will probably be a while till I need to change barrels, and that would probably require a bit more tooling than just a reaction rod

One feature of the reaction rod is you get 360 degree rotation of the firearm to make it easier to work on, as well as vertical, horizontal and every other orientation in between.  Most clamshell and barrel block style clamps will have a problem being clamped in a vise in any orientation other than horizontal give or take depending on the vise.  Mose vise designs are difficult to adjust for horizontal orientation without very wide jaws or very narrow work pieces -- the vise part below the jaws is in the way.

If everyone used enough grease when they installed their barrels/barrel nuts, I'd be less apt to recommend a reaction rod.  The fact is, you never seem to have any grease  when you're installing the barrel.  "I'll get some for the next time I remove it," but that rarely happens.  That means you may have to really torque a barrel nut to remove it, and a reaction rod is the safest method IMO.

Some handguards use proprietary barrel nuts and/or connectors and wrenches.  So, I'd agree that normally taking the handguards off isn't too difficult.  If you don't have/can't find the right tools, it's a bit problematic.  Completely depends on the way the handguard is fastened to the rifle.

Even though you are looking for these tools to perform a specific, limited operation (install/remove muzzle device), the reality is that the reaction rod provides the added function of removing and installing the barrel/barrel nut.

So, you may find that you'll be needing a reaction rod one day.  That means you'll wind up buying both the reaction rod and the barrel blocks if you decide on the blocks now.

Rather than buy a one-time-use tool, you can easily find someone on here willing to loan out tools.  If, however, you want to swap muzzle devices periodically and take them to the range to evaluate, then you probably need to buy your own for convenience.

The reaction rods are not cheap at all.  I bought mine direct from Geissele for $79.20 with free shipping.  I may have pulled the trigger on it while it was on sale -- it's been known to happen!  Now the one I have is listed for $99.99, but all 3 versions they sell are out of stock at Geissele. 

https://geissele.com/tools/gunsmithing-tools/reaction-rods.html

I've seen other brands selling for a little more or less with various features.  This Wheeler model is on sale now for $20 off at $59.99.  It includes a gas port indexing rod.  That makes sure the barrel nut is in alignment with the gas tube opening, but I'm not sure how useful that would be.  It's pretty simple to do that indexing with the actual gas tube while adjusting the nut.

https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1021330574

Just food for thought. 

It is best to engage the barrel lugs for anything barrel/upper torque related. I really like the Magpul BEVblock. I use it all the time. I wish they made one for the 308AR platform, I had to get a brownells action rod for that one, but I don’t like it as much as the magpul Bevblock

I was looking at the BEV block and it looks like it engages the lugs like an action rod would.  What can the Bev block do that an action roof can’t? (Or Vice versa)

I was looking at the BEV block and it looks like it engages the lugs like an action rod would.  What can the Bev block do that an action roof can’t? (Or Vice versa)

Bev block mounts into the vice easier than my 308 brownells action rod.

and it is made sturdy/stabilized by pressing your bolt carrier (minus bolt) onto the rear o-rings of the bev block.

And lastly the bevblock can be used as a lower receiver mag well block also.

Botach sells a 4140 steel reaction rod. I think its calles kleyzion? Its around 50 bucks on eBay. I got 1 several years ago. Its good cause it goes 360 degrees. And it has flat points where it goes into the vice.

I also bought the Midwest URR. this one is better cause it has a extra piece of metal that goes into your charging handle channel. So it in fact has 2 places to prevent twisting.

Barrel blocks can be had for 15 bucks or so off eBay. Or if you have scrap wood like a 2x4 lying around drill a 1/2 - 3/4 inch hole then cut in half. Voila now you got barrel blocks. But I seen gunsmith on yoitube just wrap leather scrap around the barrel and be fine.

Id stay away from aluminum reaction rods. I read enough reviews that people break it. It's surely a hit or miss if your muzzle device will come out easily or not. Depends how much lead/ other crap got in between the threads or how much torque the factory put it at.

My very first muzzle device I removed I uses a plumber wrench , my knees, and a hammer. I had no vice. This was before I was a mechanic. But I already knew its the initial "impact" sort of speak to break anything loose. So I pretty much kneeled , rifle facing forward in between my knees. Put the wrench on and whacked it. Came right off. It was a rra 6.8spc.

https://www.midwestindustriesinc.com/MI-Upper-Receiver-Rod-p/mi-urr.htm

You can find this cheaper on other sites

https://www.midwestindustriesinc.com/MI-Upper-Receiver-Rod-p/mi-urr.htm

You can find this cheaper on other sites

Yup. Primary arms  had it for same price as MI website and both sites have discount codes. Black Friday is coming up real quick so just bolo for alot of discount codes.