That's not a concern with a simpler-to-operate revolver.  You need practice with the speed loaders, but at that point you won't be accidentally ejecting your live ammo during a gunfight.

Speed Loaders are so unintuitive. And with my arthritic fingers I don’t always manipulate them properly. But I am getting better. But I practice with them and I am getting pretty good. Not Jerry Miculek good, but pretty good.

Okay, I am going to make a list:

1. Colt Python - Original not one of the recent production. Has to be in the bright blue finish with original wood stocks. It has to have a 4”-6” barrel.
2. S&W Model 642 PC J-Frame - I want it to go into my EDC rotation.
3. Ruger Super Blackhawk 357/9mm
4. S&W Model 686 7 Shot
5. Ruger LCR 22 WMR
6. Charter Arms Bulldog 9mm
7. Colt Python - New production
8. Blackhawk 357 to be turned over to Gary Reeder as a custom project
9. Colt SAA

Speed Loaders are so unintuitive. And with my arthritic fingers I don’t always manipulate them properly. But I am getting better. But I practice with them and I am getting pretty good. Not Jerry Miculek good, but pretty good.

I'm no good with speedloaders as well. I've seen some guys in local IPSC/USPSA matches that reload their "six shooters" faster than many reload their semi-autos.   

SNIP

That's not a concern with a simpler-to-operate revolver.  You need practice with the speed loaders, but at that point you won't be accidentally ejecting your live ammo during a gunfight.

I always wanted a SAA.  I'll have to go with 2 of them then. . . 

I'm no good with speedloaders as well. I've seen some guys in local IPSC/USPSA matches that reload their "six shooters" faster than many reload their semi-autos.   

There are different designs of speed loaders.  I used to struggle to remember which way to twist the knob on my speed loaders.  One way dropped them into the cylinder, the other direction tightened up the rounds in the holder.

Then I found the Safariland speed loaders.  Line the rounds up with the cylinder and press the knob down.  The rounds pop out into the cylinder nice and quick, and there's no twisting.  Much more intuitive, faster, and one less thing to fumble with.

Now if Safariland would just make one for each revolver in existence.  I've had problems finding the one I like in the model I need.

Had an interesting problem many years ago. Someone gave me 2k 158gr LSWC for my 357/38. The lead was soft and the lube not so good. So I decided to just load up a bunch of bunny farts in 357 using a known powder charge. I loaded about 100 and crimped them nicely in the crimp groove. I figure they would make good practice rounds. When I took them to the range, low and behold they were too long! Couldn’t close my cylinder. Never bothered to check the OAL of the cartridge. I have never seen such a long bullet beyond the crimp groove in 357/358 boolits. What was interesting is that they made a 38 cartridge just fine. OAL was within specs. Same boolit in 357 was too long. So I had to disassemble the 100 rounds and reloaded them into 38 cases. They also gave me 1k 148gr LWC. I am still using them as practice rounds but I am finally using them all up.

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What is really fun is when you load a hot 357 or 44 and the bullet jumps the crimp groove under recoil.
So now you have live rounds in a cylinder that won't turn or open.

This never happened to me but I've heard it happened to several other guys here.
The inverse of this is setback. That's why I am a firm believer in a firm crimp.

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What is really fun is when you load a hot 357 or 44 and the bullet jumps the crimp groove under recoil.
So now you have live rounds in a cylinder that won't turn or open.

This never happened to me but I've heard it happened to several other guys here.
The inverse of this is setback. That's why I am a firm believer in a firm crimp.

Yup. Had it happen to a friend of mine. He came over to the house with it. It really is easy to remove the cylinder with a boolit that has jumped. I got out my S&W repair manual and it took 5 minutes to read and a couple to do it. The cylinder almost fell out after removing a couple/few screws.

I bought a bunch of DG 115gr RN 9mm powder coated boolits a while back and I loaded them to around 1050fps. In my semi autos they did just fine. But when I tried them in my revolver they started to jump. I used a Lee factory crimp die for all my 9mm. These were no exception. so I tried to apply a bit of a tighter crimp. They still started to jump. I tried one more time and it didn’t work. I removed one of the bullets and it turns out they use very soft lead. I have used my own hard cast and other brand hard cast and I don’t have that problem with them using my normal crimp. With the advent of getting X-Treme bullets at similar prices I have decided to quit using powder coated boolits for 9mm. The X-Treme bullets work well in all my guns.