So anyway I was at an open shoot.  Prior I had shot my P365 three times before, each time firing roughly about 150 to 200 rounds per range visit.

This time, very first attempt to shoot.  Nothing.  Racked slide and tried again.  Nothing.  Did a fast field strip to check if everything is in order.  Put it back together.  Tried again.  Nothing.

Rounds ejected each had a very light primer strike.  Barely noticeable.  I thought my P365 was broken.

I reached out to SIG and upon talking to the rep and telling him my story, he said I have either too much gun lube or solvent in the striker chamber, causing the striker to not work properly.  He mentioned try to use canned air to dry out the chamber or remove the striker assembly and clean and dry everything out.  He also said there are YouTube videos that show how to remove the striker assembly.

I said I still would rather return the gun and have them look at it just in case and he said no problem send it in but he is almost 100% sure excess lube and solvent is the problem.

So, long story short, they were right.  Gun came back with a note from the armorer saying the chamber was filled with solvent gunk and lube.  Claimed overzealous oiling and lubing in excess.  Armorer cleaned out the striker assembly and chamber and certified that the gun has fired with no problems after testing.

Thing is, I read the manual and did my best to avoid the area it said not to apply any lube or solvent.  I thought I did just that but I guess apparently not.  My feeling is how can a gun be so vulnerable where it becomes literally useless because of it?

Are all striker fired type pistols vulnerable to this oversight?  I'm beginning to feel the P365 is just a safe queen if it can't fire because of too much lube.  I certainly lost confidence in it as a carry gun.  What if it happens again?  I still feel I didn't go crazy with the lubing and oiling process. 

What are you guys thoughts?  I'm asking because this is my first striker auto pistol.  I've only owned revolvers previously so would appreciate input and thoughts on the subject.

All advice, tips, and recommendations are appreciated.

The only place I oil my Glocks is where metal rubs metal --

The metal slide rails which the slide glides through and slide rail cuts,
the outside of the barrel,
the barrel opening in the slide,
and a tiny drop on the trigger's metal parts -- trigger bar and connector.

The rest of the gun stays 99% dry of lube/oil.

To me, the drier the better.  Less mess when storing and using.  Less dust and dirt collecting in the oil.  No oil-covered slide or trigger to get on your hands which could interfere with your grip/trigger finger.

Less is more.

https://kydexowbholsters.com/how-to-oil-a-glock-glock-lubrication-guide

wow
just like people
you give them too much and they don't work
 

Not much experience with the P320 and P365 series. I’ve seen some folk have their P320 “running wet”, like an AR. Where lube all over and sometimes spitting when firing.

For my pistols, lube sparingly in key spots. The firing pin channel is an area that I clean every so often for my Glocks and crap can migrate in there.

The only place I oil my Glocks is where metal rubs metal --

The metal slide rails which the slide glides through and slide rail cuts,
the outside of the barrel,
the barrel opening in the slide,
and a tiny drop on the trigger's metal parts -- trigger bar and connector.
The rest of the gun stays 99% dry of lube/oil.
To me, the drier the better.  Less mess when storing and using.  Less dust and dirt collecting in the oil.  No oil-covered slide or trigger to get on your hands which could interfere with your grip/trigger finger.
DO NOT FORGET A DROP WHERE THE RECOIL SPRING SITS ON THE BARREL
GLOCK DOES HAVE OILING POINTS LISTED IN THEIR MANUEL

Quote from: drck1000 on November 05, 2022, 04:15:19 PM

Not much experience with the P320 and P365 series. I’ve seen some folk have their P320 “running wet”, like an AR. Where lube all over and sometimes spitting when firing.
For my pistols, lube sparingly in key spots. The firing pin channel is an area that I clean every so often for my Glocks and crap can migrate in there.

Less is more.
https://kydexowbholsters.com/how-to-oil-a-glock-glock-lubrication-guide

SO TRUE
THE FIRING PIN CHANNEL AND ALL INTERIOR PLACES ON SLIDE ( CHANNELS, FIRING PIN SAFETY AND SPRING ETC...) SHOULD BE DRY

wow what a piece of junk, give it to me ill lose it in a boating accident for you.  :De

edit: true story my friend has a p365 sas with the fancy dot sight, its so far off none of us can get it on paper aiming the way its supposed to be aimed. i dont think he even bothered to send it in, he just gave up on it.

I've been forewarned about the same thing for my Glocks.  no lube in the firing pin channel, even that hole in the underside of the slide that's just begging for a drop of lube.

I even saw several YT videos where the title is "How to clean and lube the SIG P365" or something similar like that.

I see they just spray the cleaner/oil/lube liberally, even where the manual says not to.  I'm wondering if they are experiencing light primer strikes.  I definitely wasn't going overboard like those guys......

Or maybe they take out the striker assembly every so often and clean/dry out that area.

I plan to disassemble the striker assembly in the future, after I pick up a 90 degree pick which according to the YT video makes it easier to do the disassembly.  That and some punches and pick tools similar to dental instruments.

But yeah.  I will follow all you guys advice.  Only lube the rubbing parts.  Keep the rest of the gun dry.

Careful or you’ll get your lube confiscated

Glock tells you not to lube/grease the striker for the very reason that you are experiencing.  So I'm assuming  its the same for most striker type firearms.  Even Lenny Magil from the Glock Store says not to lube.....

Did ya check your brass/ primer on the 365? Early models 1st,2nd and (maybe 3rd gen) 365's had light primer strikes due to the design of the striker. I think.

Your suppose to keep the channel clear of oils but idgaf, mine has oil in it. Lol. Still functions fine. Powder residue clings to oil herego becomes like "mud" . with that said I'm meticulous in cleaning if it'll be a long term storage such as right now. Since kokohead is closed until further notice.

Also there are prob oils and cleaners that are harmful to plastic. Channel liners (atleast in glocks) are plastic. It could eat away the plastic if exposed to said cleaners. I know brakleen and rubbing alcohol is bad for plastics.


Btw, sig can do a complete overhaul on your pistol and claim anything is wrong with it. In this case, "too much oil/grease in the channel."

You can test their findings by disassembling the pistol, put oil in the channel and fire. Just clean it out at the end of the day if your unsure bout if your oil is bad for plastics.

Glock tells you not to lube/grease the striker for the very reason that you are experiencing.  So I'm assuming  its the same for most striker type firearms.  Even Lenny Magil from the Glock Store says not to lube.....

Did ya check your brass/ primer on the 365? Early models 1st,2nd and (maybe 3rd gen) 365's had light primer strikes due to the design of the striker. I think.

Your suppose to keep the channel clear of oils but idgaf, mine has oil in it. Lol. Still functions fine. Powder residue clings to oil herego becomes like "mud" . with that said I'm meticulous in cleaning if it'll be a long term storage such as right now. Since kokohead is closed until further notice.

Also there are prob oils and cleaners that are harmful to plastic. Channel liners (atleast in glocks) are plastic. It could eat away the plastic if exposed to said cleaners. I know brakleen and rubbing alcohol is bad for plastics.


Btw, sig can do a complete overhaul on your pistol and claim anything is wrong with it. In this case, "too much oil/grease in the channel."

You can test their findings by disassembling the pistol, put oil in the channel and fire. Just clean it out at the end of the day if your unsure bout if your oil is bad for plastics.

Thanks guys, for the advice.

I plan to disassemble the striker assembly and clean out the striker channel every once in a while and keep it dry.

I haven't attempted it yet cause I want to buy a 90 degree pick tool and a couple of punches to make the disassembly easier. 

Kinda lazy right now.  There are other pressing things I need to take care of at the moment plus the range is closed so I have less incentive to do anything.

Thanks guys, for the advice.

I plan to disassemble the striker assembly and clean out the striker channel every once in a while and keep it dry.

I haven't attempted it yet cause I want to buy a 90 degree pick tool and a couple of punches to make the disassembly easier. 

Kinda lazy right now.  There are other pressing things I need to take care of at the moment plus the range is closed so I have less incentive to do anything.

Hahaha me too. Super lazy since the range is closed. Theres alot of gun related things I wanna do too but ive been putting it off for weeks.. Maybe a month already. But good luck with your pistol!! 👍👍

Did you dip the whole thing in CLP? The only way you get that stuff that deep in the striker, enough to cause it to fail, is if you went overboard on it.

It’s suppose to be bone dry in there.