There are some firearms that are nearly impossible to find in the state, new or used. For those, you have to shop around online.
Curios & Relics is such a category. If you want a war-era rifle like a Mosin-Nagant, SKS, pre-1980 AK, or one of thousands of collectibles, you don't have much of a choice but to use GunBroker, AIM Surplus, etc.
So, the answer really depends on the firearm you seek. If it's a new production version that's in high demand, chances are you'll wind up looking on GB and paying whatever they are asking. Demand, supply, price -- it's an economy thing.
I've purchased from GB a few times and not had any problems. Items were as advertised, and no scams.
I do have a few guidelines for online purchases:
#1 -- Find what you want to buy, but before ordering, take the info to your favorite LGS and at least offer them the chance to meet the price. It's no insult if they can't. At least you gave them the opportunity. Nothing says you have to pay more just because the item is in stock locally. Your money = your choice.
#2 - If using an online retailer, like AIM Surplus, Bud's Guns or PSA, you can be confident the transaction will be honest. Also, they have good sales support if there are any problems with the order.
#3 - If you use GB, read up on all the latest scams, gotchas, rules and tips for avoiding getting ripped off. Education (before giving a credit card number) is key.
#4 - For GB and any other individual sales, make sure you can contact the person by phone. Give them a call, and ask qurstions about the firearm and transaction. This is not a guarantee they are not scamming you, but it's still one step in verifying their identity.
#5 - For individuals, ask them to deliver the firearm to an FFL of your choosing, not theirs. That FFL can act as a kind of escrow. Once they verify the firearm as described is in hand, you can send payment. Then the FFL can ship the gun. if there's an FFL fee for that service, consider it the cost of insurance. Insurance is peace of mind, which this process can provide you.
#6 - Almost every gun I purchased online included a specific inspection period during which you can return the item. After that expires, the sale is "final -- no refund". That means you need to track the shipment and contact your FFL the day it's delivered, assuming they haven't contacted you. Show up and inspect the firearm ASAP, but at least prior to the inspection deadline. Contact the seller immediately if you find a problem. Call AND email -- email provides documentation of when you found the problem and reported it. If you can't make it to your FFL in time, maybe ask the FFL to open the box and inspect the firearm for condition, any damage in shipping, etc. If you don't protect your right to get a refund, you might not like what you now own. For some reason, an image of the
Let's Make A Deal Zonk! comes to mind.
#7 - And maybe the most important one. I always use a credit card for payment. Some people don't like the 3%+/- CC fee some sellers require, but that's another cost of insurance. Most CC companies have a refund policy if your purchase is lost, stolen or damaged. If necessary, you can challenge the charge and have it reversed. It gives you protection if this really is a scam or the seller ghosts you. If they say they don't have the means to accept a credit card, tell them good-bye. Never , ever, ever send cash or a cashier's check or money order. Don't wire the money via Western Union, and don't use a Debit Card. A personal check is also risky, since they will ask for 7-10 days wait for the check to clear. Waiting gives them time to disappear before you realize it. By then, you can't do a stop-payment on the check. And do not use PayPal. PayPal prohibits gun sales. If you use the "Send money to a friend or relative" option, you waived any and all protections PayPal normally offers for scam victims. PayPal is able to charge a credit card even if you don't have a PP account, but the seller needs an account to receive the funds. Legit sellers might be unwilling to do that given PP's anti-gun policies.
#8 - If there's a problem, don't fall for the "I need time to fix this" ruse. They may be trying to drag it out until you bust the credit card reversal time limit, which is normally 30 days after it appears on your bill -- maximum 60 days. If they can get you to be patient while they promise to do whatever it is you want, they win. Give them a reasonable amount of time, then dispute the charge. Protect your transaction by following the credit card rules, and don't let them string you along.
I wish there were a fool-proof way to transact these sales over the Internet without fear of getting scammed. The best you can do is protect yourself against the possibility of being ripped off. Use a reputable retailer, always use a credit card, and protect your right to inspect. Anything else, and you should trust your gut. if the price is insanely low, it's probably a scam -- just a rule of thumb. You can try to buy those, but that's when added protections will save you the hundreds you could lose.
It's a scary world out there. Not everyone is a scammer, but every purchase you make is potentially a scam. Be wise, not impulsive.