I have been reloading 9mm for over 25 years now and have never had any real issues. Until last weekend. I have an old Glock as some of you may know the Glock has a reputation for having a sloppy chamber. When the brass is ejected it is bulged/belled near the bottom right above the rim. If one does not get rid of this bulge the next time you try and fire a reloaded round it will get stuck in the chamber VERY tightly. Which is what happened to me this last weekend. I have shot thousands of my reloads through my Glock and have never had an issue. Thinking the problem was due to my negligence of not sizing the case I figured it was an isolated issue. But I decided to check my 1k+ rounds of newly reloaded 9mm anyway just to be safe. I found that I have literally hundreds of rounds that the case is bulged out too much and need to be fixed. But for the life of me I couldn't figure out what the issue was. Until this afternoon. I examined my sizing. The new carbide die I bought a year ago to replace my old non carbide dies. Turns out the new die is beveled at the mouth of the die. Right where this bulge occurs. So it was not taking out the bulge. After looking at my old non-carbide dies they are not beveled at the mouth. So I ran a few empties through the old die and it removed the bulge quite nicely as it always had. So case closed on that mystery.

I wanted to let everyone know that gets range brass and brass shot from a Glock to double check for this bulge. For those of you who want to reload cases that have been shot from a Glock you will need to make sure your resizing die is capable of removing the above mentioned bulge.

I got complacent after so many years and stopped checking for it because my equipment was set properly and doing what it had done for many years prior. Little did I know that buying new dies would cause this to become an issue.

To fix the rounds that are not within specs I removed the decapping pin from the old sizing die and ran a few fully loaded rounds through it. And it worked. It fixed the bulge without having to take apart each and every round. But it also lengthen the OAL of the cartridge so now I have to re-seat the bullet and re-crimp as well.

I shared this because I want to help others from making this same mistake that I did. Also, make sure your resizing dies go straight all the way down to the mouth of the die. Otherwise the bevel at the mouth will not remove the bulge.

Just curious, what brand are your old dies and new dies?

You may want to check out the EGW U-die.  Some don't like it, they feel it works the brass too much, but I've found that it pretty much eliminates the Glock bulge.  Works so good that I stopped case gauging my finished rounds, that is until I got one stuck in the chamber because I didn't notice I had a bullet seated a little crooked.  Back to case gauging all my finished rounds.

Just curious, what brand are your old dies and new dies?

RCBS for both.

You may want to check out the EGW U-die.  Some don't like it, they feel it works the brass too much, but I've found that it pretty much eliminates the Glock bulge.  Works so good that I stopped case gauging my finished rounds, that is until I got one stuck in the chamber because I didn't notice I had a bullet seated a little crooked.  Back to case gauging all my finished rounds.

i have seen that and found the 9mm model is not able to be ordered and back ordered at this time. But as I said my old dies are working fine for this. It just means I have to go back to lubing the cases.

I also read that the Lee will get rid of the bulge as well.

I always lube my brass, even though I use carbide dies. I think this helps eliminate or reduce the bulge at the bottom.
Less downward pressure on the brass I suppose.... Were you getting that "belted-magnum" appearance?

Also, I don't use 9mm brass too many times. It operates at approx .twice the pressure as the good old 45 or 38. That can't be good for brass life.
Also, I make sure that the brass is well polished to further reduce downward friction when sizing.

i have seen that and found the 9mm model is not able to be ordered and back ordered at this time. But as I said my old dies are working fine for this. It just means I have to go back to lubing the cases.

I also read that the Lee will get rid of the bulge as well.

Yeh, didn't consider all the unavailability of reloading stuff that's going on right now.  Glad you figured a way around the Glocked brass issue you had.  I've also heard that the Lee sizing dies will do the same thing.  In fact, when you receive the EGW sizing dies, they come in Lee packaging.  From what I understand, they're actually manufactured by Lee to EGW specs or something to that effect.
On a side note, another benefit of the U-die is that they pretty much eliminate bullet setback.  That's actually the reason I switched to the EGW resizers.

I always lube my brass, even though I use carbide dies. I think this helps eliminate or reduce the bulge at the bottom.
Less downward pressure on the brass I suppose.... Were you getting that "belted-magnum" appearance?

Also, I don't use 9mm brass too many times. It operates at approx .twice the pressure as the good old 45 or 38. That can't be good for brass life.
Also, I makes sure that the brass is well polished to further reduce downward friction when sizing.

I lube my pistol brass too even though I use carbide dies.  It makes it a lot easier when reloading a bunch, but I definitely do not enjoy wiping the finished rounds before boxing them.  Tumbling the finished rounds isn't an option because I use lead for 9, 40, and 45, and JHPs for 38S.  The lead will totally shorten the life of the tumbling media, and I don't want to have to worry about corn cob getting stuck in the JHPs.

I always lube my brass, even though I use carbide dies. I think this helps eliminate or reduce the bulge at the bottom.
Less downward pressure on the brass I suppose.... Were you getting that "belted-magnum" appearance?

Also, I don't use 9mm brass too many times. It operates at approx .twice the pressure as the good old 45 or 38. That can't be good for brass life.
Also, I make sure that the brass is well polished to further reduce downward friction when sizing.

I don't use 9mm too many times either. Some Federal cases I had cracked first or second use I never bought Federal again. BTW that was a very long time ago. I also usually shoot JHP so polishing after reloading is a given.

Yeh, didn't consider all the unavailability of reloading stuff that's going on right now.  Glad you figured a way around the Glocked brass issue you had.  I've also heard that the Lee sizing dies will do the same thing.  In fact, when you receive the EGW sizing dies, they come in Lee packaging.  From what I understand, they're actually manufactured by Lee to EGW specs or something to that effect.
On a side note, another benefit of the U-die is that they pretty much eliminate bullet setback.  That's actually the reason I switched to the EGW resizers.

Actually I will pick one up when this madness dies down. I read so many good things abou this die I canno help but want to try it. Thanks for the suggestion.

I don't use 9mm too many times either. Some Federal cases I had cracked first or second use I never bought Federal again. BTW that was a very long time ago. I also usually shoot JHP so polishing after reloading is a given.

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hmmm....you polish after reloading?
I polish (tumble) prior to loading, lightly lube the shiny shells, load, then use carb or brake cleaner and newspapers to remove the lube.
Works for me.

The lube I use is genuine Alox2138F, the same stuff used in the classic NRA bullet lube formula. It is no longer being manufactured.
I have several pounds left because I use it to blend my own cast bullet lube. It will likely last me for the remainder of my natural life.
I have also used light applications of Mobil-1 motor oil. I figure if it's good enough for the bearings in my car, it's good enough for just about anything else.
The key word is LIGHT application.

To remove the film of lube, I used to buy acetone based carb cleaner.... I have been having trouble finding it lately.
A product I found that seems similar is Johnsens non-chlorinated brake cleaner in a tall green spray can.
I layer newspapers, dump the loaded rounds on the newspapers and spray till wet. Cover with 1 or 2 sheets of newspaper and roll the ammo around.
The newspapers soak up all the cleaner and lube from the ammo and seems to make the ammo nice, shiny and clean.
The cleaner evaporates so quickly, there is no chance of primer pocket penetration.
I have used this routine for more than 25 years

The caveat here is the fumes from the spray. This should be done outside. I try to hold my breath while doing this.
Properly done, it is finished in 30 seconds or less.
Of course it is also extremely flammable too.

This method works with any bullet that does NOT have exposed lube on the nose section, such as jacketed heads and traditional cast lead heads with lube in grooves.
This does not work for moly bullets, dip lubed bullets, waxy swaged bullets, etc.

I vibrate only FMJ after reload. I like nice shiny ammo. I use an old bottle of RCBS lube as a small bottle has lasted me forever. After decapping and sizing lubed cases I throw them in the vibrator to get rid of the lube. I hate wiping lube off cases. I let the vibrator do the work. After cleaning I throw the shells in a bin until I am ready for priming and loading (assuming cases are correct length and primer pockets are clean).

So I was curious how well my repair of the bulged cases was looking so I decided to drop them into the chamber of my Glock. As one would think the bulged cases got stuck in the chamber of my Glock and the cases resized with my old die fit very nicely in the Glock chamber. So far so good. If you are wondering why I keep specifying that I put them in my Glock chamber is because I decided to try and drop them into the chamber of my Sig P228. As you would think the resized cases dropped in nicely and head spaced properly in the Sig chamber. But when I dropped the bulged cases that got stuck in the Glock chamber into the Sig chamber they dropped right in and head spaced correctly and dropped right out without help. Huh? I would think the Sig would have tighter chamber dimensions than the Glock? Thinking I was hallucinating I re-tried the test and got the same answer. This would also explain why I never ran into this issue over the last year. I have not shot my Glock with these reloads that were sized with my new die. I had been shooting these reloads using the new die strictly out of my Sig.

Who knew that a Glock would be more sensitive to ammo out of spec than the Sig?

Anyway, the case repairs are going slow but sure and I intend to fix every round by next weekend. I have a lot of work ahead of me.

I spent Saturday afternoon dropping every one of my 1,500+ rounds into my go-no-go gauge. As it turns out I only had to repair about 10% of my ammo. With the exception of two cases all of the bad cases were bulged right where the new sizing die has the bevel. So I ran the round through the old resizing die and reset/crimped the bullet back in the case and all 150 rounds are not good to go. I thought it was going to be much worse than it was. While it took a few hours to check every round it took less than an hour to fix the bad ones. All of my ammo reloaded using the old die was 100% in spec. I learned my lesson to check all of my cases/rounds no matter what.