I was mostly dialing in the 44mag reloads with the SBH Hunter and H110.  I might try it in the Redhawk next, 5.5  inch barrel
I brought the 357 bc I had some light reloads to shoot and brought the Remington 125grain bc I had half a box left and I just wanted to finish it off.  I have plenty more of the Remington bc I bought 500 rounds from OGC a while back when it was on sale
I'll probably try the H110 with the 357 next.

Not sure if I have ever shot those Remington rounds, but I must say the Federal Eagle (Red Box) 125gr are HOT HOT HOT!!! I have never tried reproducing that round it is so hot. Nicely balanced .357 rounds are fine with me and if they don’t hurt much if at all then I’m happy! Getting old. 😢

Not sure if I have ever shot those Remington rounds, but I must say the Federal Eagle (Red Box) 125gr are HOT HOT HOT!!! I have never tried reproducing that round it is so hot. Nicely balanced .357 rounds are fine with me and if they don’t hurt much if at all then I’m happy! Getting old. 😢

I'll have to get some of those federal 125 grains, I might even have some lying around in my ammo cans, I'll have to check. If not I'll put it on my shopping list
Thanks.   

My little pony.  Manufactured in 1919, she's 100 years old this year. 

My little pony.  Manufactured in 1919, she's 100 years old this year. 

Nice!!! 

My little pony.  Manufactured in 1919, she's 100 years old this year. 

 

Good fun!

changed the hammer spring to a wolff spring.  DA trigger is noticeable lighter, feels much better able to stay on target better.  I left the factory trigger return spring in there bc I didn't feel the need to make it any lighter.
I also changed the rear Novak sight to an adjustable Novak sight.  still looks like factory.  works well with the factory brass bead front sight.
overall I really like this GP100 Wiley Clapp edition.  it has a duty blueing like a dull blue and all the front edges are smoothed out for easy draw and re-holster.
If I were to open carry a 357, this would be my pick.   

changed the hammer spring to a wolff spring.  DA trigger is noticeable lighter, feels much better able to stay on target better.  I left the factory trigger return spring in there bc I didn't feel the need to make it any lighter.
I also changed the rear Novak sight to an adjustable Novak sight.  still looks like factory.  works well with the factory brass bead front sight.
overall I really like this GP100 Wiley Clapp edition.  it has a duty blueing like a dull blue and all the front edges are smoothed out for easy draw and re-holster.
If I were to open carry a 357, this would be my pick.   

 

changed out the hammer/trigger springs with the Wolff kit on my S&W 629
since it was my first time working with a S&W, learning the little nuances was a learning experience and took a while. but next time it will be much faster now that I know these nuances. worst was replacing the frame cover plate, bc the transfer bar needed to be in a certain position which the video didn't cover so that was a frustrating hour to endure but now I know better
I've read that the stock DA on this gun is about 10.5 lbs, SA is about 4.5 lbs
after the Wolff kit install, its said to be about 8.5 lbs DA, 3.5 lbs SA
I also learned that you can reduce the DA pull by loosening the tension screw on the bottom of the grip.  I did loosen it about 3/4 turn, so its less than 8.5 lbs DA, or so it feels like to me maybe under 8 lbs
it is much better now.  feels better than my 627 Performance Center.
overall a great upgrade that is very cheap.   

this is the video that I used to do the spring change.  Wilson combat spring kit install process is same as Wolff spring install process

........I also learned that you can reduce the DA pull by loosening the tension screw on the bottom of the grip.  I did loosen it about 3/4 turn, so its less than 8.5 lbs DA, or so it feels like to me maybe under 8 lbs

I’m sure you already know this. So I am typing this so others who might change the springs will have the benefit of my mistake.

While I’m sure that 3/4 turn is not enough to cause any problems, if you turn it too much it will cause light strikes in DA. But will still work fine in SA. I made this mistake once after thinking I could channel my inner Jerry Miculek and adjusted it nice and light. But I put it away for a few months. When I brought it back out I shot it in SA for the first 100 rounds or so. Then I started my DA practice. The light strikes were random. So I had adjusted it just to the point of being occasionally unreliable. The worst part is I didn’t remember adjusting it (old age) and thought it was broken somehow. After I took the stocks off and started looking at it, it all came back to me. [/facepalm]

I readjusted the tension and put my trigger pull tool on it and adjusted it back to 10 pounds. No problems since.

I’m real excited about replacing the springs on one of my project guns. Thanks for posting this.

I’m sure you already know this. So I am typing this so others who might change the springs will have the benefit of my mistake.

While I’m sure that 3/4 turn is not enough to cause any problems, if you turn it too much it will cause light strikes in DA. But will still work fine in SA. I made this mistake once after thinking I could channel my inner Jerry Miculek and adjusted it nice and light. But I put it away for a few months. When I brought it back out I shot it in SA for the first 100 rounds or so. Then I started my DA practice. The light strikes were random. So I had adjusted it just to the point of being occasionally unreliable. The worst part is I didn’t remember adjusting it (old age) and thought it was broken somehow. After I took the stocks off and started looking at it, it all came back to me. [/facepalm]

I readjusted the tension and put my trigger pull tool on it and adjusted it back to 10 pounds. No problems since.

I’m real excited about replacing the springs on one of my project guns. Thanks for posting this.

That's a good point about the primer strikes. I'm going to test it with multiple ammo and if I get any light strikes, I'll adjust it back to full tension. Even at full tension its much better than the stock trigger

Let us know how that project revolver goes. 

That's a good point about the primer strikes. I'm going to test it with multiple ammo and if I get any light strikes, I'll adjust it back to full tension. Even at full tension its much better than the stock trigger

Let us know how that project revolver goes. 

It will be a while before I will be able to get to my next project. First I have to move and get settled in. Furniture and a new used vehicle is next. Then I need to build/buy my next reloading bench. Then bullets/powder/primers and getting back to the range. Money will be tight the first few months/year of retirement. But I am now leaning towards trying to find a good used GP100 in 357 or 41 Special or an SP-101 in 357. The GP100 in 41 Special is my #1 choice. If I can’t find the Ruger I want I’ll also look for a Model 19 or 27. I want to do this in steps. First change out the springs. I’ll shoot it like this for a while and verify reliability. Then I’ll try my hand at polishing trigger parts. A little bit at a time. I have a book on gunsmithing revolvers. Have not read it yet. Now that I have time and plenty of other guns for me to shoot in case I screw something up I hope to not get too impatient. Plus I can still get factory parts to replace anything I mess up on. If I still can’t find a good used revolver project when I’m ready I will use my Ruger Speed Six in 9mm as the guinea pig.

I just changed the springs on 2 of my Smiths--a 66-3 2.5" and a 625-2 5".  The wolff springs made a world of difference in both guns but I haven't had the chance to test them out.

The 625 internals were gunked up with dried up white grease and the hand was of a type that I haven't seen in my older vintage Smiths but I managed to figure it out.  If the springs prove to be reliable I'm going to change a few more.

I've also changed the mainspring and rebound spring on a J frame a while ago and that has proved to be reliable so far.

While the internet "experts" all poo-poo changing springs to achieve a lighter pull there are no pro gunsmiths on island that specialize in revolvers and it can cost $150-200 just for shipping both ways to a mainland 'smith.  The Wolff spring kit is $15 + usps.  I think the Performance Center uses Wolff springs.  I think its worth trying.

I just changed the springs on 2 of my Smiths--a 66-3 2.5" and a 625-2 5".  The wolff springs made a world of difference in both guns but I haven't had the chance to test them out.

The 625 internals were gunked up with dried up white grease and the hand was of a type that I haven't seen in my older vintage Smiths but I managed to figure it out.  If the springs prove to be reliable I'm going to change a few more.

I've also changed the mainspring and rebound spring on a J frame a while ago and that has proved to be reliable so far.

While the internet "experts" all poo-poo changing springs to achieve a lighter pull there are no pro gunsmiths on island that specialize in revolvers and it can cost $150-200 just for shipping both ways to a mainland 'smith.  The Wolff spring kit is $15 + usps.  I think the Performance Center uses Wolff springs.  I think its worth trying.

I try not to listen to people I don’t know on the internet and trust those who I know. I trust Stang’s judgement and his opinion and experience. I have always wanted to try changing out springs but I have always had other projects I wanted to work on more. Now that I am retiring not having enough time is no longer going to be an excuse.

I have a 25-1 that I bought that already has the trigger worked on. Also the 5” barrel was cut down to 4”. The work performed is top notch. Not sure who did it but I wish who did as I would have them work on some of my other guns. I have a 10-6 that has the trigger work over as well as the 4” barrel cut down to 3”. It was turned into a DAO and a target trigger was added. The work done on the revolver is also top notch and since both guns were owned by the same person, I will assume the work was done by the same smith.

I just changed the springs on 2 of my Smiths--a 66-3 2.5" and a 625-2 5".  The wolff springs made a world of difference in both guns but I haven't had the chance to test them out.

The 625 internals were gunked up with dried up white grease and the hand was of a type that I haven't seen in my older vintage Smiths but I managed to figure it out.  If the springs prove to be reliable I'm going to change a few more.

I've also changed the mainspring and rebound spring on a J frame a while ago and that has proved to be reliable so far.

While the internet "experts" all poo-poo changing springs to achieve a lighter pull there are no pro gunsmiths on island that specialize in revolvers and it can cost $150-200 just for shipping both ways to a mainland 'smith.  The Wolff spring kit is $15 + usps.  I think the Performance Center uses Wolff springs.  I think its worth trying.

good to know about the PC using Wolff springs.  I was going to leave my PC 627 alone.  the Wolff hammer spring has a rib in it, whereas the stock S&W one does not.  maybe i'll just take a look at it, I have 2 more sets of springs anyways.   

Look at you revolver smiths!  And here, I am just looking to change grips on my revolvers. . . 

Look at you revolver smiths!  And here, I am just looking to change grips on my revolvers. . . 

Well, easy to explain. The higher the IQ.......   

I am coffee out this morning! 

Well, easy to explain. The higher the IQ.......   

I am coffee out this morning! 

The higher the IQ, the closer to stock they keep their revolvers. . . 

Except for stang of course. . .