2aHawaii
General Topics => General Discussion => Topic started by: astro575 on June 12, 2014, 03:42:42 PM
-
I have a 1/2" steel plate about 11" x 15". I would like to set it up at 100 yards on the rifle side. Any concerns or requirements that may be necessary for holding up the target. Looking to build a frame and any suggestions or advice would be nice. Pics also would be helpful. Thanks
-
These threads have some photos.
https://2ahawaii.com/index.php?topic=2124.msg17350#msg17350
https://2ahawaii.com/index.php?topic=10635.msg103652#msg103652
-
That plate is too big. Would give you no challenge. I shoot my 8" gong with my rifles standing up. Bench rest and 4" target is good.
-
read the 2 threads, interesting ... so gongs are allowed on the rifle range? and/or silhouette range? are there any specific size requirements to adhere to? i assume gongs are not allowed on the pistol side because its all within 50yds but correct me if im wrong?
-
read the 2 threads, interesting ... so gongs are allowed on the rifle range? and/or silhouette range? are there any specific size requirements to adhere to? i assume gongs are not allowed on the pistol side because its all within 50yds but correct me if im wrong?
Rifle range yes gongs are allowed only at 100 yard line and they have to be free swinging. The silhouette side has hanging metal targets at various distances (http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/06/17/4anuvuny.jpg)
-
Rifle range yes gongs are allowed only at 100 yard line and they have to be free swinging. The silhouette side has hanging metal targets at various distances
Not exactly right.
50 yd steel targets are okay, but only if shooting .22 caliber at them.
100 yd steel targets are okay, and any caliber can be used that's allowed on paper targets.
As stated, the steel targets must swing freely.
If you have more questions about specific targets, ask the RSO before setting them down range.
Hope that helps!
-
thanks! the pic of the silhouette range is also helpful. :thumbsup: can shotguns be used at the silhouette range?
-
thanks! the pic of the silhouette range is also helpful. :thumbsup: can shotguns be used at the silhouette range?
Nope no shotguns on the silhouette range only rimfire rifles and handguns. Shotguns may only be shot in the action bays, the trap/skeet ranges, and on the rifle range but on the rifle range you have to shoot slugs only.
-
Also, it doesn't have to be metal plates. I seen guys hang golf balls at 100 yards. I'm not exactly sure what the criteria is for material.
-
Nope no shotguns on the silhouette range only rimfire rifles and handguns. Shotguns may only be shot in the action bays, the trap/skeet ranges, and on the rifle range but on the rifle range you have to shoot slugs only.
:thumbsup:
so no centerfire rifles on silhouette? and when are the action bays open?
-
Could I setup a dueling tree at 100 yards on rifle??
-
I think you have to ask an RO. The post is a little thick so I'm not sure if they will count that as non moving target. Some posts are angled to deflect so you can try show them a pic first. You know that it will be pretty heavy to carry out there each time right? I'm assuming you will go with AR500 steel. If not your rifle rounds will just tear it apart.
-
:thumbsup:
so no centerfire rifles on silhouette? and when are the action bays open?
Correct no centerfire rifles on the silhouette range. To shoot in the action bays you would have to shoot there as part of a group/club.
-
would an old wooden saw horse suffice as a gong frame? your thoughts?
-
This is the a-frame stand I use using 1/2"x 5' rebar with ends made by a company called the last stand. MIke the RO has approved this for the rifle side and have been using it for about 2 months.
http://www.laststands.com/ (http://www.laststands.com/)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l219/palisocm001/IMG_20140621_175943_zps87fed9b5.jpg) (http://s97.photobucket.com/user/palisocm001/media/IMG_20140621_175943_zps87fed9b5.jpg.html)
-
would an old wooden saw horse suffice as a gong frame? your thoughts?
Brand new 2x2 target frame at 100 yds with four AR500 round targets suspended.
Shot with Ruger 10/22 .22LR, AR-15 5.56, AK-47 7.62x39, and Mosin 7.62x54R.
Used once on the rifle range. I'm using steel legs next time!! :rofl:
(http://i.imgur.com/U1aKJb9.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/7nvtMpK.jpg)
-
Brand new 2x2 target frame at 100 yds with four AR500 round targets suspended.
Shot with Ruger 10/22 .22LR, AR-15 5.56, AK-47 7.62x39, and Mosin 7.62x54R.
Used once on the rifle range. I'm using steel legs next time!! :rofl:
Lol gotcha :thumbsup: :shaka:
-
No need metal. Just hang the targets slightly back from the legs. The splash will miss the legs.
Brand new 2x2 target frame at 100 yds with four AR500 round targets suspended.
Shot with Ruger 10/22 .22LR, AR-15 5.56, AK-47 7.62x39, and Mosin 7.62x54R.
Used once on the rifle range. I'm using steel legs next time!! :rofl:
(http://i.imgur.com/U1aKJb9.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/7nvtMpK.jpg)
-
No need metal. Just hang the targets slightly back from the legs. The splash will miss the legs.
You're looking at the back of the legs. The hardware was attached to the back of the legs, so the targets were basically flush with the rear of the frame. Except for the top target hanging from the top cross bar.
Based on the level of damage, I'd have to hang the targets at least 2-3 inches behind the frame, and I'd need something like a metal bracket to suspend them.
Whatever the targets are suspended from is going to get hit, right?
If anything, I'd think having the targets in front of the frame would be better, since the splash would deflect at a forward angle?
I have a couple of old bed frames made of steel I was going to try and use. Haven't taken the time to really look at how to do that, but seems like a good recycling project!
-
This is the a-frame stand I use using 1/2"x 5' rebar with ends made by a company called the last stand. MIke the RO has approved this for the rifle side and have been using it for about 2 months.
http://www.laststands.com/ (http://www.laststands.com/)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l219/palisocm001/IMG_20140621_175943_zps87fed9b5.jpg) (http://s97.photobucket.com/user/palisocm001/media/IMG_20140621_175943_zps87fed9b5.jpg.html)
interesting design :thumbsup: and not bad $40 + s&h for the last stand + cost of 6 - 6' rebar + chains, gong, and connectors and nuts and bolts = ~$100
do you get a lot of wiggle from the frame when the gong gets hit?
-
I haven't used this yet. The gong is 4" in front of the stand. The eye bolts are from Home Depot.
-
:thumbsup:
I haven't used this yet. The gong is 4" in front of the stand. The eye bolts are from Home Depot.
:thumbsup: :thumbsup: let us know how it goes!
-
interesting design :thumbsup: and not bad $40 + s&h for the last stand + cost of 6 - 6' rebar + chains, gong, and connectors and nuts and bolts = ~$100
do you get a lot of wiggle from the frame when the gong gets hit?
Yes it wiggles but I have yet to tip it over shooting 308. Here is a link done by 8541 Tactical shooting the set up at less than 100 yards.
http://8541tactical.com/2013/12/31/the-last-stand-review/ (http://8541tactical.com/2013/12/31/the-last-stand-review/)
-
You're looking at the back of the legs. The hardware was attached to the back of the legs, so the targets were basically flush with the rear of the frame. Except for the top target hanging from the top cross bar.
Based on the level of damage, I'd have to hang the targets at least 2-3 inches behind the frame, and I'd need something like a metal bracket to suspend them.
Whatever the targets are suspended from is going to get hit, right?
If anything, I'd think having the targets in front of the frame would be better, since the splash would deflect at a forward angle?
I have a couple of old bed frames made of steel I was going to try and use. Haven't taken the time to really look at how to do that, but seems like a good recycling project!
Reverse the horizontal braces so it's on the back side. That will make the eye screws hang the chains behind the legs. The target backing will only attach on the vertical frame and not on all four sides but not a big deal. I've tested it multiple times with .308 and .338 and not a scratch on the legs. I have steel on the legs in this pic but i've tested it without it and no problem.
(http://i301.photobucket.com/albums/nn65/blkdrgnphotos/Firearms/28CE20BD-DB9D-488D-9236-E832FDBE5C7A_zpsnrz7kpvi.jpg)
-
I haven't used this yet. The gong is 4" in front of the stand. The eye bolts are from Home Depot.
I like this gong style. Kinda tired of blowing off chains and links if someone misses. Let us know how you like it and how it reacts when you hit close to the left or right edge. Wondering if the spin is going to affect the eye bolts.
-
This beast was made from scrap and $5 in hardware
-
This beast was made from scrap and $5 in hardware
nice design :thumbsup: i could totally construct this
-
This is why i dont like shooting next to guys with plates. My paper targets always gets trashed from the splash of hitting the gong.
-
I haven't used this yet. The gong is 4" in front of the stand. The eye bolts are from Home Depot.
Obviously not AR500 plate. Since this was an experiment I used 3/8" mild steel. The gong swings freely where ever it was hit, no problems with the eye bolts. There is some frame damage from edge strikes. Next step is to make one from AR500.
-
Shooting at mild steel with high powered rifles is asking for trouble. All we need is for someone to get hit by a ricochet and its all over. If you all are going to shoot steel, do it right, get the right steel and use the appropriate ammo.
-
I told the RO it was just mild steel and I was using 223 FMJ before taking it out and he didn't have a problem with it. They asked me to show it to them when I was done so they could see how the system worked. They thought the gong would've been in worse shape then it was.
-
The pits and dents can cause projectiles to bounce and curve in unpredictable direction. Better to have armor steel so the target does not dent or pierce, the bullet can flatten, then bounce straight down, when target swings.
-
Also, do not use steel jacketed or steel core ammo. Steel cores or jackets can come back at the line and kill someone.
-
Also, do not use steel jacketed or steel core ammo. Steel cores or jackets can come back at the line and kill someone.
The pits and dents can cause projectiles to bounce and curve in unpredictable direction. Better to have armor steel so the target does not dent or pierce, the bullet can flatten, then bounce straight down, when target swings.
Appreciate the advice :shaka: Better to be safe. . .
I do have customers at the shop I work at buy steel plates for targets, I will now highly recommend against it.
-
No prob... shoot safe and have fun! :thumbsup: :shaka:
-
I to get excited about possibly using scrap metal to make gongs but it looks like I won't be using them :-\
Better safe than sorry though. Thanks for sharing that important piece of advice.
I dont' suppose there are any local shops here to buy the appropriate steel for shooting? I'd only be using .22lr and 223/556.
-
I to get excited about possibly using scrap metal to make gongs but it looks like I won't be using them :-\
Better safe than sorry though. Thanks for sharing that important piece of advice.
I dont' suppose there are any local shops here to buy the appropriate steel for shooting? I'd only be using .22lr and 223/556.
Mild steel is fine for .22lr, any centerfire rifle, I wouldn't. It'll just pit or pierce the steel badly.