Post by: Sodie on April 17, 2015, 07:53:48 PM
Post by: Bigkahuna808 on April 17, 2015, 08:12:00 PM
Post by: djsmiles808 on April 17, 2015, 08:46:23 PM
Post by: dirtylickins on April 17, 2015, 08:58:49 PM
roll pin starter would help though not necessary.Yep. The most delicate part install would be the roll pin for the bolt release. Just because it'll Mar scratch ruin your lower if you don't take precaution
Post by: macsak on April 17, 2015, 09:12:51 PM
Yep. The most delicate part install would be the roll pin for the bolt release. Just because it'll Mar scratch ruin your lower if you don't take precaution
latex?
Post by: Jl808 on April 17, 2015, 09:14:32 PM
When doing the detents, take a big and transparent plastic tub, turn it on its side and work inside the tub.
Post by: mauidog on April 18, 2015, 01:06:29 AM
A bench vise and proper upper & lower blocks to hold the parts while you do the less delicate work, like tightening barrel and castle nuts. It also acts as another pair of stable hands to make the process easier.
Take your time on the lower parts kit installation. It's better to get each part right once than to have to take it apart because something is not right. Identify all the parts that need springs and detents and install those together, That way, you don't skip the detent and have to take that part off again.
If you are attaching a new barrel, make sure to buy a small packet of AR barrel grease if not included with the barrel or parts kit. This is essential for the barrel to seal & remain trouble-free.
Buy a spare parts kit with extra springs, detents, and other parts that get lost or worn out. For such a small price, it can save you a bunch of headaches when a part goes missing or a spring gets destroyed trying to take off the buffer tube to add an ASAP plate.
Know whether the buffer tube you get is MILSPEC or Commercial Spec. If you buy the wrong type, it may prevent you from using the specific stock you wanted/bought.
If you intend to ever take off the flash hider to try other designs, get at least a 16" barrel. Any shorter, and the muzzle device must be long enough to reach 16" and be pinned to make it legal.
I bought just the castle nut wrench initially because I didn't need the barrel wrench -- I bought a full upper with barrel already attached. Second build, I bought the upper in parts. When I shopped for a barrel nut wrench, I wound up getting one that also does castle nuts. Should have gotten the combo wrench first!
Read all the reviews on bolt carrier groups before buying. You don't need the most expensive, but sometimes the cheapest can be problematic. #1 thing I look for is reduced friction. The smoother the carrier, the less I worry about keeping it wet with oil. Some reviews I see point out how they ordered that BCG because of the nice shiny finish, only to find the finish is rough and causes friction.
Free-floating the barrel is a major advantage for my builds at least. improves accuracy, and allows a longer hand guard than those that stop at the gas block. I also found free floating seems to mechanically zero the sights better than using an A2 front sight block.
As with anything, there are fine details. Overlooking any of these won't mean your final build isn't going to perform well. These are just hints to make the process smoother and hopefully avoid the pain of having to learn from experience!
Post by: Sodie on April 19, 2015, 06:39:46 PM
Just ordered the upper and lower last night, so I'm on my way... :shake:
Post by: suka on April 19, 2015, 09:49:00 PM
but you're actually assembling an AR from parts.
Building an AR means starting from bar stock.
have fun. :stopjack:
Post by: mauidog on April 19, 2015, 09:55:43 PM
Don't mean to be technical,
but you're actually assembling an AR from parts.
Building an AR means starting from bar stock.
have fun. :stopjack:
In a time when throwing a frozen Hot Pocket in the microwave without ruining it is considered "cooking" ...
we're "building" ARs!!
>:D :thumbsup:
Post by: Sodie on April 20, 2015, 07:15:13 PM
Don't mean to be technical,
but you're actually assembling an AR from parts.
Building an AR means starting from bar stock.
have fun. :stopjack:
Exactly! I've got a couple of aluminum blocks on the way, and new bits for my Dremel. What could go wrong? :geekdanc: :thumbsup:
Post by: Sodie on May 10, 2015, 10:34:37 AM
Things I've screwed up so far:
- One very small ding in the finish... When in doubt, tape!
- Initially used the wrong spring for the selector lever. The LPK came with a spare spring for pivot/takedown pins, and I dropped that in. The lever felt sketchy as hell, lots of play and not the positive "click" I'm used to from GI M4s. Found http://www.biggerhammer.net (http://www.biggerhammer.net) and the FAQ page with detailed dimensions of all the spring and pin sizes, which helped me realize I had the wrong spring. Put the right one in, and it felt better, but still a little loose.
- It felt loose because I'd also used the wrong detent. Once again, Google to the rescue... There was also a spare detent for the pivot/takedown pins in the kit, and I'd put that in too. Switched it for the right one, and now it feels just right...
- Lost the buffer retainer detent spring, because my workbench is a mess. Luckily, I found a GI ballpoint pen that was willing to donate its spring for the cause... Seems to be working so far. I've got replacement springs on the way in case it starts to not work.
A couple more questions:
- Any recommendations for a good BCG for a reasonable price? I'm not looking to drive tacks, but I'd like good practical accuracy and high reliability.
- I know that if I get a 14.5 inch barrel, I've got to permanently install something to bring the overall barrel length to at least 16 inches (e.g., a pinned flash hider). Seems to me if I do that, I won't be able to take the gas block off later if the flash hider outer diameter is bigger than the barrel... right?
Thanks for all the advice so far... It's a lot of fun watching it take shape! :shaka:
Post by: suka on May 10, 2015, 10:49:53 AM
your gas block will not slip off the barrel.
The AR is over engineered! Now doesn't the AK design solve all little springs and do dads.
Post by: Sodie on May 10, 2015, 11:12:54 AM
The pins and other fiddly bits aren't TOO bad, as long as you know which goes where. And a set of spark plug gappers works like a champ for keeping in the little potential high-speed projectiles.
Never shot an AK... might have to see if I can find one... ;D
Post by: dogman on May 10, 2015, 12:44:08 PM
- I know that if I get a 14.5 inch barrel, I've got to permanently install something to bring the overall barrel length to at least 16 inches (e.g., a pinned flash hider). Seems to me if I do that, I won't be able to take the gas block off later if the flash hider outer diameter is bigger than the barrel... right?Yankee Hill makes a two piece gas block with a folding front sight. http://yhm.net/front-flip-sight-tower-standard.html (http://yhm.net/front-flip-sight-tower-standard.html) I installed one on one of my builds ( a drop of purple loctite on each screw) and after a few thousand rounds it's never loosened... knocking on wood. They are available locally for less than ordering from YH.
Post by: Sodie on May 10, 2015, 01:53:09 PM
Yankee Hill makes a two piece gas block with a folding front sight. http://yhm.net/front-flip-sight-tower-standard.html (http://yhm.net/front-flip-sight-tower-standard.html) I installed one on one of my builds ( a drop of purple loctite on each screw) and after a few thousand rounds it's never loosened... knocking on wood. They are available locally for less than ordering from YH.
That would limit me to a pretty short hand guard, though... Decisions, decisions!
Post by: mauidog on May 10, 2015, 03:31:12 PM
If you aren't sure the muzzle device you pin is the perfect one for you, I'd recommend going with a 16" barrel. Then you can mix and match handguards, gas blocks, front sights, and muzzle devices all you want!
If this is a project gun, don't make it too difficult to swap parts. You can always make the next build a shorter "clone" after you've identified which components are "you!"
Post by: BigBlue on May 13, 2015, 11:11:07 PM
Main thing is to not go crazy spending money.
Figure out what kind of AR you want (be realistic in how you'll use it) and build just that. It's easy to go crazy.
Free float is great. I have 2 free floats, but regular hand guards work great and are my preference for shorter guns. People go a bit crazy and think every AR has to be about improving accuracy. My 16" with MOE hand guards is lightweight and fun to shoot. What more do you want?
Post by: Sodie on June 13, 2015, 07:50:21 PM
Functioned pretty well; no FTFs or FTEs, went "bang" every time it should have, didn't go full-auto. One thing that concerned me a little was that on an empty mag, the BCG would lock, but not *all the way* back... It would end up about an inch forward of full back. Since I didn't have any FTFs, I figure it's cycling all the way; maybe my mag springs are weak? I was using GI ten-rounders that are at least 25 years old... One of them wouldn't lock the BCG at all.
Regardless, I had fun, and now I want to see what it can do with a decent scope...
Post by: TastesLikeMetal on June 14, 2015, 09:58:24 AM
didn't go full-auto.
Awww, that's too bad... :geekdanc:
Post by: Sodie on October 11, 2015, 05:17:58 PM
First rounds through it today! It didn't blow up, which I consider a win. Accuracy was OK; probably some combination of operator error and the $35 reflex sight I put on it.
Functioned pretty well; no FTFs or FTEs, went "bang" every time it should have, didn't go full-auto. One thing that concerned me a little was that on an empty mag, the BCG would lock, but not *all the way* back... It would end up about an inch forward of full back. Since I didn't have any FTFs, I figure it's cycling all the way; maybe my mag springs are weak? I was using GI ten-rounders that are at least 25 years old... One of them wouldn't lock the BCG at all.
Regardless, I had fun, and now I want to see what it can do with a decent scope...
I've taken a few more range trips with it since then, and the bolt still isn't locking all the way back. The bolt catch catches on the forward edge of the BCG, not the bolt. Any thoughts about possible causes/solutions? What I've seen on the inter webs so far seems to indicate it may be undergassed. Different weight buffer and/or spring, maybe?
Post by: mauidog on October 11, 2015, 05:27:47 PM
I've taken a few more range trips with it since then, and the bolt still isn't locking all the way back. The bolt catch catches on the forward edge of the BCG, not the bolt. Any thoughts about possible causes/solutions? What I've seen on the inter webs so far seems to indicate it may be undergassed. Different weight buffer and/or spring, maybe?
How did you check to make sure the gas block is aligned with the gas exhaust hole in the barrel? There are tools designed to do that, or you can use a small rubber tube to blow into the gas block side. As you rotate and slide the block. you'll get more or less resistance as the holes line up or move apart. You want it where the resistance is the least to ensure you get full pressure to the action.
Hope that helps.
Post by: ren on October 11, 2015, 07:56:06 PM
Change magazines. Use ones that are known to work.
Ammo used? Try different manufacturers.
Post by: justin1098 on October 11, 2015, 08:53:55 PM
I say pull the gas block and take some measurements to try to verify that the hole in the gas block lines up with the barrel gas port. The hole in the gas block should be bigger than the gas port allowing for some wiggle room. Make sure your gas tube is centered in the upper and not pulled to one side by the barrel nut.
If you have a collapsible "carbine" type stock, you should be using a standard carbine buffer. Rifle needs rifle.
Post by: mauidog on October 11, 2015, 09:26:14 PM
Sounds like a gas problem to me.
I say pull the gas block and take some measurements to try to verify that the hole in the gas block lines up with the barrel gas port. The hole in the gas block should be bigger than the gas port allowing for some wiggle room. Make sure your gas tube is centered in the upper and not pulled to one side by the barrel nut.
If you have a collapsible "carbine" type stock, you should be using a standard carbine buffer. Rifle needs rifle.
What he said. If you read the instructions for initial adjustment for an adjustable gas block, you are supposed to close the port until the bolt fails to lock back. Then you open it a 1/4 turn and test. Adjust and test until the bolt locks back, adjusting as many times as it takes to get enough gas to lock back.
That sounds like your problem -- system is getting too little gas.
Heavier buffers are designed to slow down the cycle rate of the BCG in cases where the rounds are not chambering properly. If the cycle rate is too fast, the BCG can literally bounce out of battery after being pushed into battery by the buffer spring and buffer. A heavier buffer can prevent the BCG from bouncing back.
The rate of cycle can be adjusted if you installed an adjustable gas block. The ones I used work very well, though I've heard from others there are adjustable ones they don't like for some reason. Some AR's even come with gas system adjustment knobs to accommodate very dirty rifles you can't stop to clean, and suppressors which may cycle better and more quietly with less gas driving it.
Gen II - .750" Adjustable Low Pro Solid Gas Block from Syrac Ordinance.
http://www.syracordnance.com/collections/all/gas-blocks
I ordered 2 at once, and shipping was $5.95 to Hawaii.
So, focus on the amount of gas being delivered through the gas tube and gas block. Sounds like it's not enough.
Post by: Sodie on October 12, 2015, 12:31:01 PM
How did you check to make sure the gas block is aligned with the gas exhaust hole in the barrel?
It went something like "That looks about... wait... wait... right there! That's probably close." And tighten the set screws. :D
The gas tube lines up well with the barrel nut, with a little bit of play when the bolt's not in battery. Found a gas block alignment solution at Brownell's for ten bucks... Sounds like a winner. I'll let you all know how it goes. :shaka:
Post by: mauidog on October 12, 2015, 12:59:45 PM
Thanks for the answers.
It went something like "That looks about... wait... wait... right there! That's probably close." And tighten the set screws. :D
The gas tube lines up well with the barrel nut, with a little bit of play when the bolt's not in battery. Found a gas block alignment solution at Brownell's for ten bucks... Sounds like a winner. I'll let you all know how it goes. :shaka:
If you don't want to wait for Brownell's, another way is the use a pencil to mark the gas port location on the barrel (a line that extends beyond the gas block which should be center of the barrel).
Then mark the location of the gas port hole on the gas block on its edge. Again, this should be the center of the block.
Now when you slide the block on, line up the two marks, and make sure the block goes all the way toward the rear of the barrel until it's flush with the "stop" for the gas block. You should be sliding it as far back as it goes, and then only have to worry about rotating left/right to match the pencil marks.
There's nothing magic about the Brownell's installer. It's a plastic pin that has a notch. Together, the two halves are the right length to let you align the ports with the barrel upside down. When the holes align, the plasic pin keeps the block from twisting. You turn the barrel upright, and then use a cleaning rod to break the pin in half so you can remove it.
Post by: Sodie on October 12, 2015, 02:02:06 PM
I'll spend the time while I'm waiting for the order to arrive sanding out the stock on my Ruger American to make sure the barrel stays clear of it...
Post by: asinapple8805 on October 12, 2015, 07:51:11 PM
Also check the gas rings on your bcg to make sure that you have a proper seal.
Post by: mauidog on October 12, 2015, 09:48:23 PM
One thing you might also want to check if you haven't already is the amount of coils on the buffer spring. If there are too many coils, that can cause you to short stroke your bolt.
Also check the gas rings on your bcg to make sure that you have a proper seal.
For reference, this is an improper seal ...
(http://i.imgur.com/BB81Rpt.jpg)
:rofl:
Post by: robtmc on October 13, 2015, 09:27:33 AM
Ran the correct size drill through the port to knock the burrs off, cleaned the bore, and all cycling issues vanished. Was choking off the gas just enough to slow the cycle.
Post by: Sodie on October 13, 2015, 12:38:49 PM
Ill check the gas port when I get it apart (once the alignment tools show up).
Post by: dogman on October 13, 2015, 07:37:58 PM
Start off with the easy things first.
Change magazines. Use ones that are known to work.
Ammo used? Try different manufacturers.
Try a different BCG just to eliminate that link before you take apart your rifle. I had a new build that wouldn't cycle at all, I swapped BCGs with another rifle and both rifles have functioned without issues since.
Post by: Sodie on October 13, 2015, 09:39:56 PM
Try a different BCG just to eliminate that link before you take apart your rifle. I had a new build that wouldn't cycle at all, I swapped BCGs with another rifle and both rifles have functioned without issues since.
Thanks for the suggestion.
I've only got the one BCG, so it's way cheaper for me to get the alignment tool and remove/replace the gas block. If that doesn't do it, I'll probably try new mags, then maybe a BCG.
Post by: K30l4 on October 13, 2015, 11:15:55 PM
For reference, this is an improper seal ...:rofl:
(http://i.imgur.com/BB81Rpt.jpg)
:rofl:
I think that's the kind seal I have.
