I've not used the Samsung software so I have a question for FJ, does the SSD need to be a larger or equal size as the HHD for the Samsung software to work?

I second this question.  My only experience with cloning software wanted equal sized HDs.  I like the idea of a smaller SSD for OS, but have a 1Tb HD with the OS on it now.

Flapp_Jackson, have you used other SSDs such as Sandisk, WD or PNY?  I used to always get the Samsungs but the Sandisk seem to work fine for most computer work also.

I also have not yet had an SSD fail but haven't really used one for more than 4 years yet. HHDs expected lifespan is at most 3-5 years.  I wonder how long SSDs are supposed to last.

I've got a PNY in an older Netbook, but it's a proprietary version (no plastic case around it).  Just from research at the time, I liked what I saw about Samsung's balance of cost/performance.  If you're the kind who have to have the best, Intel has always had the best performance test results, but it's 2-5 times more expensive.

I haven't had a reason to abandon Samsung, especially since their prices have dropped significantly to remain competitive.  I imagine, like most other electronics, there are only one or two actual manufacturers of the components, and it's the firmware that varies in each brand.  Sandisk had always had decent consumer memory products, so I wouldn't be averse to trying one if the cost per GB is lower than Samsung.  All things being equal, why change horses if yours is getting the job done?   

Hi Inspector, if you buy the SSD aftermarket, I recommend setting up the Windows OS on the SSD. As FJ suggested, you can use the HHD for additional storage instead. 

This would involve either reinstalling windows on the SSD or using the Samsung software to copy the Windows OS from the HHD to the SSD. 

I've not used the Samsung software so I have a question for FJ, does the SSD need to be a larger or equal size as the HHD for the Samsung software to work?

You may need a second SATA cable to accommodate the 2 drives.

The disk sizes do not have to match.

As long as the total used space can fit, the software will adjust the image size to match the target (SSD).

I upgraded my WinXP PC to SSD.  The original disk was 500GB, and the SSD is 128GB.  I installed the SSD on the SATA bus (requires both a SATA connection and power connection, just like any SATA disk drive).  I loaded up the software under windows, and told it what to copy.  It rebooted and cloned the boot drive to the SSD.  I rebooted from the SSD to verify it was good, and then removed the old boot disk.

Most PCs today allow you to specify the default boot device/boot order.  That lets you put the SSD on any vacant SATA port to clone and boot from it.  Make sure you put it on the fastest SATA port.  If you have SATA 2.0 and 3.0, make sure to use the 3.0 port to get 6 GB/Sec speeds.

If you are getting a new PC, it's probably better to do a fresh Win10 install, but there are pros and cons.  That means downloading all the latest drivers, losing any cool "bloatware" programs from the manufacturer, and losing the "restore" capability most PCs have using the factory image on a hidden partition. 

If you don't need the extra disk storage, you could always keep the original boot disk in storage as backup.  Then if you get a virus or need to restore the original image for any reason, just go through the clone process again.

I second this question.  My only experience with cloning software wanted equal sized HDs.  I like the idea of a smaller SSD for OS, but have a 1Tb HD with the OS on it now.

If you ever used Partition Magic, it's alot like that.  The software resizes the image to fit the SSD.  As long as the data isn't too large to fit, it'll work. 

I think you have an option to use the whole target or make the partition the same size as the source.  So, it you have a boot partition that's 100GB, you could copy that to the SSD as a 100GB partition, then create another partition or more on the remaining SSD's space.

Windows 10 creates multiple partitions, so I'd recommend telling the software to use the entire SSD target's space if cloning Win10.

Got it, thanks!

Newer motherboards have one or more M.2 SSD connectors.  The M.2 SSDs are not the same as the SATA SSDs. 

When you use one of those slots, depending on the motherboard, you can use the SATA or PCIe bus.  Whatever you choose might limit if you can use the other connectors on that bus.  For instance, if you choose SATA, you might lose your 6th SATA port.  If you use PCIe, you might lose your second PCIe port, meaning you can't have dual video cards or another 4X PCIe device.

M.2 drives will probably increase the speed, especially on the PCIe bus.  It also doesn't need a SATA power connector from the power supply.  Power is supplied from the motherboard connector.

https://arstechnica.com/gadgets/2015/02/understanding-m-2-the-interface-that-will-speed-up-your-next-ssd/

Thanks FJ. The Sandisks are a bit less expensive than the Samsungs but do not come with the clone software. So the Samsung might be a better choice just to get the clone software that comes with it. 

Another question. This is strictly out of curiosity because I have no intention of buying one.

What does everyone think of the refurbished computers that are currently available? I don't feel compelled to buy refurbished and would prefer to buy new. Just curious what the experts here feel about it.

Another question. This is strictly out of curiosity because I have no intention of buying one.

What does everyone think of the refurbished computers that are currently available? I don't feel compelled to buy refurbished and would prefer to buy new. Just curious what the experts here feel about it.

I don't see anything wrong with refurbished computers except a lot of them aren't cheaper than buying a new computer on sale or at Costco.

I wish I'd said that.   

Great minds think alike

I've bought refurbished laptops before and slapped SSDs in them. I've been lucky they work good.  I'd handpick refurbished laptops with good components that aren't easy to upgrade (CPU, touchscreen) to present-proof and future-proof them.

I've bought refurbished laptops before and slapped SSDs in them. I've been lucky they work good.  I'd handpick refurbished laptops with good components that aren't easy to upgrade (CPU, touchscreen) to present-proof and future-proof them.

All depends on the price.  Something 40-50% off new price would be a good buy.  The manufacturer honors their original warranty, so make sure the warranty is at least a year or more, not 90 days.  You can also get 3rd party extended warranties that kick in after the manufacturer's, like Square Trade.  You need to buy that within 30 days of the item's purchase date.

As long as the warranty is intact, there's really no difference between a new or refurb other than you saved money on the item and may spend some of the savings extending the warranty -- something you may want to do on the new item anyway.

If you ever used Partition Magic, it's alot like that.  The software resizes the image to fit the SSD.  As long as the data isn't too large to fit, it'll work. 

Used PM many years ago, but just to split up empty space. 

Dell partitioned my HD as one large one.  Can you instruct the software as to what to include if it is too large?  The issue is just getting the OS on the SSD drive, with only a few major software installs.

Lots of stuff like gigs of video editing files I do not want or need cluttering up the SSD.  Decades ago I ould partion a new build to have only 5-10 Mb on the OS partition and put the software on other partions.  Bigger hard drives and the resulting confusion of what was where stopped me doing that.

Used PM many years ago, but just to split up empty space. 

Dell partitioned my HD as one large one.  Can you instruct the software as to what to include if it is too large?  The issue is just getting the OS on the SSD drive, with only a few major software installs.

Lots of stuff like gigs of video editing files I do not want or need cluttering up the SSD.  Decades ago I ould partion a new build to have only 5-10 Mb on the OS partition and put the software on other partions.  Bigger hard drives and the resulting confusion of what was where stopped me doing that.

You'll need to copy the oversized amount of data to another volume, or just delete the things you don't need.

If it's so close that you're doing that, it might be better to get a bigger SSD.  You don't want your boot disk to be more than 80% full.  That's the max.  More space is better.

Dell, as with many manufacturers, often include a hidden partition with an image for restoring the boot disk back to the way it came from the factory.  If you read the prompts when you boot, and see an option for recovery or additional boot options, there is probably a restore partition taking up a small amount of room on the disk.

Windows 10 automatically creates two hidden partitions on the boot drive.  First is the recovery partition of 450MB, and then another I've read is for Bitlocker encryption space of 100MB.

Just FYI if you have Win10.  Best to clone the old boot drive completely than select individual partitions.  You can remove and expand partitions in the Windows disk manager later if needed.

Always ensure the new cloned disk is working for a few days before reformatting the old one.  That gives you the ability to start over with cloning if you do something wrong, or something doesn't work as expected.

Thank you everyone for all your responses. I am keeping a back up of all my data on a thumb drive just in case the HD crashes. In the meantime the HD errors have stopped for right now. I'll probably wait until it actually dies or I find a good sale somewhere. Which ever occurs first.