I want to eventually start reloading for my 1903 and Garand.  Mostly for the Garand since I have a difficult time finding and acquiring commercial ammo to shoot through it.  I enjoy both rifles that were handed down to me from my dad, so there's that.  I also want to add a little bit more diversity in what I shoot, due to current ammo situation and other likely pending shenanigans, but I digress. . .

I have accumulated some components that I could start loading for 30-06 since much of what I bought for .308 can be used.  I don't have much brass, but I have a bit of commercial ammo to shoot.  I have a bunch of 168 gr heads that I'm already thinking I either won't use for .308 or would be much lower on the list behind other heads.  Powder, I have some. 

I recall reading somewhere that Garands beat up brass.  I thought they were loaded lighter.  I was thinking I'd probably start with shooting in 1903 and start reloading for the 1903 before going to the Garand.  I'm thinking somewhere like 20-40 rounds per range day, so not much. 

Anyways, what are some of your favorite 30-06 loads?  Particularly for Garand. 

Disclaimer coverage: I acknowledge that what works for what folks post is safe in their firearms.  That I need to workup a safe load for myself. 

I want to eventually start reloading for my 1903 and Garand.  Mostly for the Garand since I have a difficult time finding and acquiring commercial ammo to shoot through it.  I enjoy both rifles that were handed down to me from my dad, so there's that.  I also want to add a little bit more diversity in what I shoot, due to current ammo situation and other likely pending shenanigans, but I digress. . .

I have accumulated some components that I could start loading for 30-06 since much of what I bought for .308 can be used.  I don't have much brass, but I have a bit of commercial ammo to shoot.  I have a bunch of 168 gr heads that I'm already thinking I either won't use for .308 or would be much lower on the list behind other heads.  Powder, I have some. 

I recall reading somewhere that Garands beat up brass.  I thought they were loaded lighter.  I was thinking I'd probably start with shooting in 1903 and start reloading for the 1903 before going to the Garand.  I'm thinking somewhere like 20-40 rounds per range day, so not much. 

Anyways, what are some of your favorite 30-06 loads?  Particularly for Garand. 

Disclaimer coverage: I acknowledge that what works for what folks post is safe in their firearms.  That I need to workup a safe load for myself.

It has been a long time since I loaded for my Garand that I sold. But the one thing I remember is that I found some data using H335 powder and it did not cycle the action completely. H335 is a little faster burning and did not work well in my garand. As I recall Varget, IMR4064 and IMR4895 all worked well and are fairly close on burn rate. So if you see a faster burning powder like H335 in the data `you are looking at using tread cautiously.

I forgot to mention, reloading 30-06 for the 1903 is great for using lead boolits! Hard cast lead are very accurate but cannot be pushed as hard as jacketed. Maybe up to 1800-1900fps maybe a little faster. Good for general plinking and informal target practice. Just make sure you get them with gas checks installed or powder coated. If you decide to try this, I can send you some pages out of my Lyman Lead Boolit Reloading Manual.

It has been a long time since I loaded for my Garand that I sold. But the one thing I remember is that I found some data using H335 powder and it did not cycle the action completely. H335 is a little faster burning and did not work well in my garand. As I recall Varget, IMR4064 and IMR4895 all worked well and are fairly close on burn rate. So if you see a faster burning powder like H335 in the data `you are looking at using tread cautiously.

I have IMR 4063 and Varget on hand.  Those are first two up in my test loads for .308, so will see how those go. 

I have founds some data for loading for Garands on the interwebs.  My Sierra, Lyman, and Berger manuals don't have "direct" loading data for Garands other than it's "less than commercial".  I may have to read the manuals closer though as I have been focusing on .308, and only cursory review for 30-06. 

I forgot to mention, reloading 30-06 for the 1903 is great for using lead boolits! Hard cast lead are very accurate but cannot be pushed as hard as jacketed. Maybe up to 1800-1900fps maybe a little faster. Good for general plinking and informal target practice. Just make sure you get them with gas checks installed or powder coated. If you decide to try this, I can send you some pages out of my Lyman Lead Boolit Reloading Manual.

I'm open for anything, but I'm thinking that the components that don't make the cut for .308 will be then for plinking ammo for 30-06.  I already have some boolits that I'm thinking will go there, since I bought some that were on sale and I'm now thinking of going in a different direction for the .308. 

You need to load Garand ammo at a specific pressure curve to prevent op rod damage.   4895 powder and similar burn rate is the right powder for the job.  Also, take into account bullet mass, as this also affects pressure at the gas port. 

What makes it difficult is the large volume of 30-06 brass. It can be loaded way too hot for the Garand to handle.

If your brass is getting overly mangled by the Garand, something is wrong with either the gun or the ammo.

While Varget and 4895 is great powder to use for Garand loads, I use AA2520.  It has the similar burn rate to 4895, but it is a ball powder.  This makes loading faster by allowing more accurate by thrown powder charges.

I sold off my dcm garand because i was stupid.
But I do have a glut of Hornady 165 SST bullets if you want something like that.

You need to load Garand ammo at a specific pressure curve to prevent op rod damage.   4895 powder and similar burn rate is the right powder for the job.  Also, take into account bullet mass, as this also affects pressure at the gas port. 

What makes it difficult is the large volume of 30-06 brass. It can be loaded way too hot for the Garand to handle.

If your brass is getting overly mangled by the Garand, something is wrong with either the gun or the ammo.

Thanks!  A cool forum member sent me some data specific to Garands, so I have a starting point.

We’re you referring to H4895 or IMR 4895?

What are some signs of approaching trouble for pressure and oprod? I have some Garand specific ammo as a baseline to compare, but not much.

Thanks!  A cool forum member sent me some data specific to Garands, so I have a starting point.

We’re you referring to H4895 or IMR 4895?

What are some signs of approaching trouble for pressure and oprod? I have some Garand specific ammo as a baseline to compare, but not much.

H & I 4895 are close to one another in burn rate. But they are far enough apart that you cannot mix and match the load data. Also, they really are two completely different powders in both burn rate and physical characteristics. What you want to do to start is try and match the characteristics of the Military M2 Ball 30-06 ammunition. Not necessarily the exact loading as the IMR4895 they used back then is a little different than what is available nowadays.

I’ll send you the specs for M2 Ball.

H & I 4895 are close to one another in burn rate. But they are far enough apart that you cannot mix and match the load data. Also, they really are two completely different powders in both burn rate and physical characteristics. What you want to do to start is try and match the characteristics of the Military M2 Ball 30-06 ammunition. Not necessarily the exact loading as the IMR4895 they used back then is a little different than what is available nowadays.

I’ll send you the specs for M2 Ball.

Thanks!

Imma gonna get some interesting looks if/when I bust out the chrono for the Garand.   

I use a Schuster adj. gas plug but I still stick to recommended burn rates. I open up the port just enough to kick out brass then turn it in half turn.