1. Obviously blocked mag
2. Still blocked to 10 rounds (tested)
3. Rattles like a maraca when there is as little as 2 rounds
  3a. Dont even get me started on when there is none (hint its worse)
4. Epoxied at the bottom
5. Mag block mechanism is a upside down T shape. But the spring tension is holding the horizontal part of the T down.
   5a. Vertical rod of blocker is loose
   5b. Blocker looks to be 3d printed with hardly any filler, pretty much almost hollow

Is this something to be nit picky about
6. Its a staccato mag so yes I have to cope but its also my fat base pad mag (the only big basepad mag that came with the gun.

Finally the question!
Can I remove the epoxy (heating it up, pushing down on plunger at the sane time), to separate the basepad from magazine (to get inside and get the rod out) and then hand it to a local gun store to request a mag block?

Local gun store basically told me to buy new mags (which i did), but still want that magazine not to rattle

Legality, nitpicky, other inputs
thank you

1. Obviously blocked mag
2. Still blocked to 10 rounds (tested)
3. Rattles like a maraca when there is as little as 2 rounds
  3a. Dont even get me started on when there is none (hint its worse)
4. Epoxied at the bottom
5. Mag block mechanism is a upside down T shape. But the spring tension is holding the horizontal part of the T down.
   5a. Vertical rod of blocker is loose
   5b. Blocker looks to be 3d printed with hardly any filler, pretty much almost hollow

Is this something to be nit picky about
6. Its a staccato mag so yes I have to cope but its also my fat base pad mag (the only big basepad mag that came with the gun.

Finally the question!
Can I remove the epoxy (heating it up, pushing down on plunger at the sane time), to separate the basepad from magazine (to get inside and get the rod out) and then hand it to a local gun store to request a mag block?

Local gun store basically told me to buy new mags (which i did), but still want that magazine not to rattle

Legality, nitpicky, other inputs
thank you

Unless you want a gun shop/gunsmith to do the entire job for you, there's no reason to get anyone like that involved.  As long as the mag is disassembled, it's still legal -- i.e. a mag that's disassembled holds zero (0) rounds.  I believe even in Hawaii that's less than 10.  The gun shop will charge about as much as a new mag will cost anyway, so there's no reason to go that route IMO.

I don't know what your mags look like as far as component materials go.  Chances are, if they are nonporous, you may be able to use a chemical adhesive remover.  That's for metal and I assume some polymers.  if the materials are porous, which might include other polymers, you can use acetone or isopropyl alcohol.  Be aware that acetone loves to eat certain materials like rubber and styrofoam, so test it on a tiny spot first.

You can experiment with the rattler using various products like denatured alcohol, paint thinner, acetone and so on.  That way, if you ever need/want to disassemble another one, you'll know how.  But, be prepared to get a replacement if you mess it up totally.  If that'll take time, maybe wait to play Mag Doctor until after you have a replacement.  I know you already bought another mag, but that's just something to think about if you're in this situation in the future.  Sometimes mags can be difficult to find.

I always use factory 10rd mags in place of standard capacity mags >10rds.  Never had one blocked.  If 10rd factory mags for your Staccato are available, I'd be inclined to buy those over the expense of having a new mag blocked (~twice the cost).

https://www.loctiteproducts.com/en/know-how/fix-stuff/remove-epoxy-use-these-tools-follow-these-steps.html

Unless you want a gun shop/gunsmith to do the entire job for you, there's no reason to get anyone like that involved.  As long as the mag is disassembled, it's still legal -- i.e. a mag that's disassembled holds zero (0) rounds.  I believe even in Hawaii that's less than 10.  The gun shop will charge about as much as a new mag will cost anyway, so there's no reason to go that route IMO.

I don't know what your mags look like as far as component materials go.  Chances are, if they are nonporous, you may be able to use a chemical adhesive remover.  That's for metal and I assume some polymers.  if the materials are porous, which might include other polymers, you can use acetone or isopropyl alcohol.  Be aware that acetone loves to eat certain materials like rubber and styrofoam, so test it on a tiny spot first.

You can experiment with the rattler using various products like denatured alcohol, paint thinner, acetone and so on.  That way, if you ever need/want to disassemble another one, you'll know how.  But, be prepared to get a replacement if you mess it up totally.  If that'll take time, maybe wait to play Mag Doctor until after you have a replacement.  I know you already bought another mag, but that's just something to think about if you're in this situation in the future.  Sometimes mags can be difficult to find.

I always use factory 10rd mags in place of standard capacity mags >10rds.  Never had one blocked.  If 10rd factory mags for your Staccato are available, I'd be inclined to buy those over the expense of having a new mag blocked (~twice the cost).

https://www.loctiteproducts.com/en/know-how/fix-stuff/remove-epoxy-use-these-tools-follow-these-steps.html

If I am reading correctly, the body is stainless steel the bottom base pad is aluminum ANODIZED BLACK. My Basepad has seen a few marks already. So not sure if you know if the chemicals you listed above can eat away aluminum anodizinf

If I am reading correctly, the body is stainless steel the bottom base pad is aluminum ANODIZED BLACK. My Basepad has seen a few marks already. So not sure if you know if the chemicals you listed above can eat away aluminum anodizinf

Stainless steel in nonporous, so that's going to take a chemical adhesive remover.  Acetone works best if it can be absorbed into the material (wood, stone, concrete, ...).

Since the materials you listed are metal, you can try a heat gun at about 200° F.  This might soften it enough to separate the parts and clean off the adhesive.

Acetone will not harm aluminum according to charts here, but it might not be as effective against epoxy since it's nonporous:

https://www.calpaclab.com/aluminum-chemical-compatibility-chart/

I checked a few of the other chemicals, and they seem good to use as well.  Whatever you are thinking of using, do some checking before to make sure.

Stainless steel in nonporous, so that's going to take a chemical adhesive remover.  Acetone works best if it can be absorbed into the material (wood, stone, concrete, ...).

Since the materials you listed are metal, you can try a heat gun at about 200° F.  This might soften it enough to separate the parts and clean off the adhesive.

Acetone will not harm aluminum according to charts here, but it might not be as effective against epoxy since it's nonporous:

https://www.calpaclab.com/aluminum-chemical-compatibility-chart/

I checked a few of the other chemicals, and they seem good to use as well.  Whatever you are thinking of using, do some checking before to make sure.

I might try the chemicals first before the heat gun. The magazine blocker base is stuck at the bottom against the metal pad. I dont know the material of the blocker so I dont know its heat tolerance. Thank you for helping me with this