What is the proper way to level your new scope? People tell me to just turn it in and have the shops do it. What are they doing and what do they use that is so special that I can't do it at home? I there a more accurate way then a bubble level and plumb line?  I don't mind buying equipment if it's relatively cheap.

Did you not like the results with the method that you used?  I've used this with good results in the past. 

http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/B004TAB7ZO/?tag=2ahawaii-20

Can't go wrong with having a shop doing it though.

Step 1: remove bolt
Step 2: stand back a few feet
Step 3: bisect the barrel with the vertical reticle element

The eyeball is capable of phenomenal accuracy.

Tom_G got it. Stand back and look

After you have years of experience it's fast.

The scope leveling sets take longer to set up
Then to mount is.

Also the experience is also knowing the scope
Rings feel level as not to twist or bend the scope.
Lapping in rings also takes a lot of expeience.
Kinda like doing cam bearings on an engine.

But its all trial and correct.  Learn from each install.

I use a small  bubble and level the gun. Then level the scope with another small bubble level. Cost 1 dollar at Home Depot and voila.

Tom_G got it. Stand back and look

After you have years of experience it's fast.

The scope leveling sets take longer to set up
Then to mount is.

Also the experience is also knowing the scope
Rings feel level as not to twist or bend the scope.
Lapping in rings also takes a lot of expeience.
Kinda like doing cam bearings on an engine.

But its all trial and correct.  Learn from each install.

How long will it take you to level?

i have a laser boresighter that came with a level
you want to borrow?
you coming to dirty's on friday?

How long will it take you to level?

I have this if you wanna borrow.
http://www.weaver-mounts.com/gun_smithing_tools/scope_mounting_kits/standard/

It's not difficult to use a little bubble level kit. 

Stabilize the rifle and level the barrel, front to back, left to right. 
Attach the rings to the scope somewhat loosely, then mount to the rifle. 
** If the reticule  is not canted inside the scope, the adjustment knobs are at right angles.
Place the level on the knob on top of the scope, keeping it level while gently tightening the mounting screws. 
** Don't overtighten the rings, as you can dent the tube.

Make sure all screws are tight enough to prevent movement/loosening when shooting.

If the reticle looks canted, then level the rifle and find a vertical line that's perpendicular to the floor.  Maybe use a window, a door frame, etc.  Twist the scope to align the reticle with the vertical line you chose. 

Keep checking the rifle as you go to make sure you didn't move it out of horizontal alignment.

I've tried this many times, and it gets easier and quicker each time as you learn what to do.



http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/B003BRY1UY/?tag=2ahawaii-20

I'm surprised that there are no digital levels or lasers to do the job. Bubbles seem kinda low tech considering how expensive some rifles and scopes are.

How about these two kits? They both come with lapping tools.

Weaver Deluxe Kit
http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/B00488R666/?tag=2ahawaii-20

Wheeler Scope Mount Kit
http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/B002PQKGSI/?tag=2ahawaii-20

I'm surprised that there are no digital levels or lasers to do the job. Bubbles seem kinda low tech considering how expensive some rifles and scopes are.

How about these two kits? They both come with lapping tools.

Weaver Deluxe Kit
http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/B00488R666/?tag=2ahawaii-20

Wheeler Scope Mount Kit
http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/B002PQKGSI/?tag=2ahawaii-20

$20 versus $100.  I like the bubbles!        

Once the scope is mounted and leveled, you still have to zero it.  If you can't keep the vertical in line with the target while only making elevation changes at various distances, you have more leveling to do. 

You might also want to buy an anit-cant kit to use at the range.  Canting the rifle can really mess up your zeroing.

Why complicate things with digital this and laser that. The cheapest and most accurate way to level the scope is to use a plumb line. Don't use a door frame or window (you don't really thing the contractor that built your house cared about precision). Set your plumb line out and look through the scope, set your eye relief, then set your vertical on the line (make sure the plumb has enough length and weight to negate any wind) then tighten your screws evenly on the ring caps.

Level off the rail or mount (whichever you have), not the barrell.  You could still level a scope upside down.

If your vertical line is plumb, there will be no problem zeroing the rifle at any range.

Did you not like the results with the method that you used?  I've used this with good results in the past. 

http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/B004TAB7ZO/?tag=2ahawaii-20

Can't go wrong with having a shop doing it though.

I don't understand how this works? Why do you clamp it to the barrel? How would you get that level? I guessing you use the smaller level first on your turret but what if you have a rounded turret or how do you know it's perfectly straight with your reticle?

No comment!!!!!

No comment!!!!!

Just trying to figure things out. I'm still going to drop them off today or tomorrow. You guys close too early on weekdays.

That was my problem....if the rifle has no flat spots on the top or sides of the rifle then how do you know its flat?

You assume......so instead of wasting time just do it by eye or aieahounds method....

  If you level using a plumb line; the scope will be level and the bullet drop will be in line with the reticle (assuming you don't cant the rifle).

You could use the level that attaches to the barrel if you want to level the rifle to your preferred shooting position. For instance; if you shoulder the rifle and you have a slight cant to the rifle for comfort you can set the barrel bubble to zero and then set the flat based bubble on the top of the turret and square the scope that way. Or, if you dont cant the rifle, you can level the barrel off the rings (bottom half) then mount the scope and level the scope to the barrel bubble.

Maybe you are better off letting someone else mount it for you. 

My assumption is (there's that "A" word, but that's okay!) the rail you mount the scope rings to is in line with the barrel bore.  If not, you probably have bigger issues trying to align the scope than having a crooked house!   

The scope rails on my rifles are attached to the receiver.  The rail has to be parallel with the bore of the rifle.  Use the rail to level the rifle (I use the bubble levels).  If the rail is rounded, like some dovetail rails are, mount the rings, as suggested  to get a flat, even surface to check.  Using the rail means you don't have to worry about the barrel being tapered.

 

If you level using a plumb line; the scope will be level and the bullet drop will be in line with the reticle (assuming you don't cant the rifle).

You could use the level that attaches to the barrel if you want to level the rifle to your preferred shooting position. For instance; if you shoulder the rifle and you have a slight cant to the rifle for comfort you can set the barrel bubble to zero and then set the flat based bubble on the top of the turret and square the scope that way. Or, if you dont cant the rifle, you can level the barrel off the rings (bottom half) then mount the scope and level the scope to the barrel bubble.

Maybe you are better off letting someone else mount it for you. 

I'm lost. lol. That's okay though as I turned my rifles in to x-ring today.