Finally getting around to anchoring my safe. I don't get the instructions. Am I supposed to take the floor off which seems glued at the corners? I tried pulling it up and even using a hammer in the hole to pry it up but it doesn't budge. It's raised about 2" and inside on the bottom is smooth and is not wood. The instructions say to drill through the fire-resistant floor material. The floor is just press board but underneath I think is the fire-resistant material. So do I use a 2" drill and drill through the press board and also the fire-resistant floor to get to the metal and then use a 1/2" drill bit for the anchor?

http://media.browning.com/pdf/om/07_137_bsf_safe_om.pdf

1 Remove the safe interior shelving, floor panel and elevation brace. See removal instructions under “Shelf Adjustment" on page 18. (doesn't say a thing about the floor)
2 Measure and mark four anchor holes 2" from the safe corners. Use a minimum of 3/8" x 4" expansion-type anchor bolts and 1¾" steel washers inside the safe floor to reinforce it at the anchor positions (Figure 2).
3 Elevate the safe by placing it on 2" x 4" wood braces. Place the 2" x 4" wood braces flat on the floor and slide one brace under the front of the safe and one brace under the rear of the safe, elevating the safe 1½".
4 Use a 2" wood bit to drill through the fire-resistant floor material to expose the steel floor. (Not required on models that are not fire-resistant.)
5 Drill a ½" hole through the center of each anchor point in the safe floor.
6 Place the safe exactly where you want to anchor it and mark the floor through the holes in the safe bottom.
7 Remove the safe and drill anchor holes in the floor with a 3/8" masonry bit.
8 Reposition the safe over the holes and install the expansion anchors and washers through the safe floor. IMPORTANT: Pre-drill wall anchor holes in the safe prior to anchoring the safe to the floor or wall. See “Anchoring Your Safe to a Wall” on page 10.
9 Fill the 2" openings in the fire-resistant material with high temperature silicone caulking. The caulking will seal the opening and prevent hot gases from entering the safe during a fire. (Not required on models that are not fire-resistant.)
10 Replace the floor panel, elevation brace and interior shelving.

I actually didn't bother anchoring my safe.  I live in an apt, and it took me + 2 other guys almost an hour to squeeze and maneuver it thru small doors and narrow hallways.  I think the safe weighs 450lbs empty, and now probably weighs closer to half a ton now with gear and ammo inside.  I'm just hoping gravity takes care of the rest.

I actually didn't bother anchoring my safe.  I live in an apt, and it took me + 2 other guys almost an hour to squeeze and maneuver it thru small doors and narrow hallways.  I think the safe weighs 450lbs empty, and now probably weighs closer to half a ton now with gear and ammo inside.  I'm just hoping gravity takes care of the rest.

Yeah I'm kind of at this point.  The safe I'm looking at is like a 50-60 gun safe... weighing almost 800 lbs. Add gear... few cases of ammo and we are going to break 1k. Someones going to have to bring in a truck, defeat the alarms, jack it out of the garage.  It would have to be a full blown staged heist lol.

It never hurts to be extra safe. In high school I was 130lbs and I could dead lift 390lbs. My old coworker could pick up a refridgerator by himself and move it. Imagine two Samoans who don't care about your house or the safe. They will just drag it, throw it, whatever it takes to get it out. Anyways, I still need help.

Yeah I'm kind of at this point.  The safe I'm looking at is like a 50-60 gun safe... weighing almost 800 lbs. Add gear... few cases of ammo and we are going to break 1k. Someones going to have to bring in a truck, defeat the alarms, jack it out of the garage.  It would have to be a full blown staged heist lol.

If it's not bolted, I bet a semi-bright thief or three could have it rolled out of the garage on a dolly to a waiting truck and drive off before anyone responds to the alarm. 

800 lbs is manageable if you use wheels!!

It never hurts to be extra safe. In high school I was 130lbs and I could dead lift 390lbs. My old coworker could pick up a refridgerator by himself and move it. Imagine two Samoans who don't care about your house or the safe. They will just drag it, throw it, whatever it takes to get it out. Anyways, I still need help.

what type of floor are you anchoring it to ? As for me since my home is post and pier I just drilled down pass floor . Had a 5/8"x5" ss bolt . Added a 4"x4"x1/2" plate on the bottom of my house drilled out a 3/4" hole in the center of my plate . Shoved the bolt up into the safe and doubble nut the top.

The floor is concrete. The problem is that I'm not sure what to drill in the safe. The way it looks is 1. Pressboard. 2. Fire-resistant board. 3. Metal. Am I supposed to drill with a 2" bit only the pressboard or also the fire-resistant board too? In other words does the Lag nut tighten on the pressboard, fire-resistant board, or the metal?

If I have to drill both the pressboard and fire board with this type of bit, isn't the center of the bit going to hit the metal and I might not be able to drill completely through the fire board?

I called Browning and she said it's a false floor. I just not pulling hard enough. lol. Inside you will see 4 predrilled holes.

So your good then ? I would use ss wedge anchors atleast 1/2" . DO NOT FORGET THE ANTI-SEIZED

I actually didn't bother anchoring my safe.  I live in an apt, and it took me + 2 other guys almost an hour to squeeze and maneuver it thru small doors and narrow hallways.  I think the safe weighs 450lbs empty, and now probably weighs closer to half a ton now with gear and ammo inside.  I'm just hoping gravity takes care of the rest.

They don't have to take your safe...they can tip it over, pry the door open or gain access more easily via the back or sides, which are much more vulnerable to attack with common hand tools, then just take the stuff inside.....

Iirc. The floor is glued to pieces of wood underneath it at the corners. Pull the floor up and there are pre drilled holes at the base. Some have a hole on 4 corners some have two down the middle. 
Concrete bit and hammer drill is what I used. Drill hole as straight as possible, vaccum out dust, put anchor in hole, set anchor, put bolt with big washer. Done.
BTW, I used 1/2 drop in anchors.