This will be for my wife so it has to be light. It's mainly for home defense/plinking. I think we want to go with gas Mid length. I think weight will be the biggest thing about this build. Budget is $2k but of course it doesn't mean to pick all expensive parts so it reaches that budget. You don't have to pick all the parts, just point me in the right direction and I will choose. BTW, I know several people who can put it together so you can rule out me building it.

I already have a DPMS LR-05K lower receiver that I got for free so we can mark that off.

I copied and pasted this from another website. You guys also said the trigger, barrel, and bolt should come first as far as choosing better parts for. Also keep in mind that for now until people help out, I'm just Googling things and just sticking it on the list.



1.   Barrel – Adams Arms 16” Mid-Length Ultra Lite VooDoo 1:7 Twist       
      http://www.adamsarms.net/16-mid-length-evo-ultra-lite-barrel

2.   Trigger – Hiperfire Hipertouch 24E
       http://www.hiperfire.com/hipertouch24e.html

3.   Gas Block – BTE Micro Adjustable .625 Bore
       http://bte-usa.com/parts/micro-gasblocks.htm

4.   JP Enterprises
     •   Bolt Carrier Assembly - JP Enterprises JPBC-3A .223
        http://www.jprifles.com/buy.php?item=JPBC-3A

     •   Silent Capture Spring – JP Enterprises JPSCS-15
        http://www.jprifles.com/buy.php?item=JPSCS-15

     •   Muzzle Compensator – JP Enterprises JPTRE-2
        http://www.jprifles.com/buy.php?item=JPTRE-2

5.   Upper Receiver – Aero Precision without forward assist
       http://aeroprecisionusa.com/upper-receviers/ar15-stripped-upper-receiver-no-forward-assist.html

6.   Handguard – Midwest Industries GEN2 SS-Series One Piece Free Float 12” Mid-Length
       https://www.midwestindustriesinc.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=category.display&category_ID=450

7.   DPMS Lower Receiver Kit

8.   MidwayUSA

     •   Butt Stock – Magpul CTR Carbine Mil Spec
        http://www.midwayusa.com/product/2319164110/magpul-stock-ctr-collapsible-ar-15-carbine-synthetic?cm_vc=ProductFinding

     •   Gas Tube – DPMS AR-15 Mid Length
        http://www.midwayusa.com/product/1413288594/dpms-gas-tube-ar-15-lr-308?cm_vc=ProductFinding

     •   Gas Tube Roll Pin – DPMS AR-15
       http://www.midwayusa.com/product/384068/dpms-gas-tube-roll-pin-ar-15-lr-308?cm_vc=ProductFinding

     •   Buffer Tube  – UTG Extension Buffer Tube 6-Position Mil-Spec
      http://www.midwayusa.com/product/937252/utg-receiver-extension-buffer-tube-6-position-mil-spec-diameter-ar-15-carbine-aluminum-matte?cm_vc=ProductFinding

     •   Buffer Tube Lock Ring – DPMS AR-15
      http://www.midwayusa.com/product/718153/dpms-receiver-extension-buffer-tube-lock-ring-ar-15-lr-308-carbine?cm_vc=ProductFinding

     •   Buffer Tube End Plate – DPMS AR-15
       http://www.midwayusa.com/product/645904/dpms-receiver-extension-buffer-tube-end-plate-ar-15-lr-308-carbine?cm_vc=ProductFinding

     •   Trigger Guard – Magpul MIAD enhanced Aluminum
       http://www.midwayusa.com/product/114195/magpul-trigger-guard-miad-enhanced-ar-15-aluminum-matte?cm_vc=ProductFinding

     •   Ejection Port – DPMS Cover Assembly
      http://www.midwayusa.com/product/888007/dpms-ejection-port-cover-assembly-ar-15-matte?cm_vc=ProductFinding

     •   Extended Bolt Catch – Magpul BAD Lever
      http://www.midwayusa.com/product/769721/magpul-bad-lever-extended-bolt-catch-ar-15-aluminum-matte

9.   Lower Receiver – DPMS LR-05K

10.   Charging Handle – BCMGUNFIGHTER 5.56 MOD 5 (Small) Latch

11.   Magazines – Magpul PMAG AR/M4 Gen M3 Windowed

12.   Backup Iron Sights – Magpul Gen 2 MBUS
     •   Front
           http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/B004SH9OUS/?tag=2ahawaii-20
     •   Rear
           http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/B004RR0N8Q/?tag=2ahawaii-20

13.   Red Dot Sight – Aimpoint Micro H-1 2MOA
      http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/B007R6AF9Q/?tag=2ahawaii-20

So far I'm pretty lost on choosing a barrel. Most say Novesky is great but they have so many that I don't know what to pick. No idea what a no gas, lo-pro gas, switchblock, lightweight contour, etc. is.

Whiteoak if you can get.one they are on a huge backlog

Whiteoak if you can get.one they are on a huge backlog

I went to their website and it say 4-6 month backlog. I don't want to wait that long.

So far I'm pretty lost on choosing a barrel. Most say Novesky is great but they have so many that I don't know what to pick. No idea what a no gas, lo-pro gas, switchblock, lightweight contour, etc. is.

No gas  = no gas block, the barrel comes stripped
Lo-pro gas = low profile gas block will fit under most rails
Switch blck = reduce gas blow back if you're running suppressed
Light weight profile = thinner profile: skinnier,  thus lighter weight.  Heats up faster during rapid fire vs. std barrels

Did you decide on who's building it?

1. AR-15 lower receiver - DPMS LR-05K - Free
2. AR-15 upper receiver
Depends if you want one put together already, or from parts, BCM makes a good lightweight upper
3. Lower receiver parts kit
Doesnt really matter, the main difference is the trigger pull
4. Upper receiver parts kit
See 2.
5. Lower receiver extension (aka: the buffer tube)
Brownells has a receiver extension kit that includes 6 position tube, spring, castle nut and end plate
6. Buffer
Depends on the gas system.  Carbine length=H or H2, Mid-length- H, maybe standard carbine
7. Buffer spring
See 5.
8. Barrel (a carbine length gas system would be typical for this build)
If going carbine length gas, a 14.5 pinned would be good.  16 inch is fine with carbine, but will have slightly more wear to the gun due to more violent action (not something really proven yet as far as I know though)  But that's why you use a H or H2 buffer.  If you want lightweight get some form of lightweight profile barrel.  The barrels in DD guns, BCM and maybe noveske are all made by FN.
9. Hand-guards (length will depend on what length gas system you chose on your barrel: carbine, mid-length, or rifle)
If you're going for lightweight get the magpul hand guards.  If you want an actual rail, go for a daniel defense one (they're stupidly light)
10. Bolt carrier group (carrier, bolt, firing pin, cam, extractor, ejector and spring)
BCM has a good bolt.
11. Collapsible stock
Personal preference
12. At least one magazine
Pmags, or lancer awf

No gas  = no gas block, the barrel comes stripped
Lo-pro gas = low profile gas block will fit under most rails
Switch blck = reduce gas blow back if you're running suppressed
Light weight profile = thinner profile: skinnier,  thus lighter weight.  Heats up faster during rapid fire vs. std barrels

Did you decide on who's building it?

I looked and Novesky offers a "lightweight contour barrel, 6.8". It says 12.5" is for carbine. I thought Hawaii has to be 16" which their site say is Mid.

No decision on who's building it. Can't be that hard right with the correct tools?

8. Barrel (a carbine length gas system would be typical for this build)[/b]
If going carbine length gas, a 14.5 pinned would be good.  16 inch is fine with carbine, but will have slightly more wear to the gun due to more violent action (not something really proven yet as far as I know though)  But that's why you use a H or H2 buffer.  If you want lightweight get some form of lightweight profile barrel.  The barrels in DD guns, BCM and maybe noveske are all made by FN.

Really?  I swear the DD CHF barrels are made at their main plant in GA:

All Daniel Defense cold hammer forged barrels are made from start to finish in our state-of-the-art facility located in Black Creek, GA. In keeping with our heritage of not cutting corners, all cold hammer forged barrels feature a forged chamber and heavy phosphate exterior coating. They are all MP tested on-site and are available in multiple configurations which includes barrel only (stripped); barrel with front sight base; barrel with low profile gas block; and barrel with front sight base, gas tube, and delta ring assembly (Complete). These barrels will prove themselves to be more accurate and last longer than a barrel that has cut or button rifling.

9.  Not necessarily.  If you have a lo pro gas block you could run any length handguard you want.  You could have a 16" barrel with a 15" handguard.  If you want light weight go keymod or carbon fiber.  They'll be lighter than any standard ris system.  Lancer is a good solid company in carbon fiber.  If you want to go tactigucci go Christensen Arms. In key mod you can't go wrong with Noveske or KAC.

10.  Get a bolt from the same manufacturer as your barrel.  That should save your gunsmith time in making sure they interface correctly.   

I looked and Novesky offers a "lightweight contour barrel, 6.8". It says 12.5" is for carbine. I thought Hawaii has to be 16" which their site say is Mid.

No decision on who's building it. Can't be that hard right with the correct tools?

1. 6.8 SPC - not the same as 5.56/.223 it's a different caliber all together.  If that's what you want that's fine.
2.  If you're not a licensed gunsmith do you really want to be mucking around with things that go boom?  If you assemble it yourself you're assuming all the responsibilities/liabilities that goes with that.  If your head spacing is off and your gun has a KB malfunction and hurts someone else, could you live with that?  Would you want to risk it? 

Maybe not DD, but I know FN makes a lot of the barrels on the market; and they're top quality.

im gonna sorta copy oldfaithful and put my answers in there

BTW:  IF you think weight is gonna be an issue, you should go to a gunstore with a lot of ar's and feel them all to see what combo of parts weight before putting together what you want.  perhaps you might find something you might want to buy outright and keep for yourself...


1. AR-15 lower receiver - DPMS LR-05K - Free

If you want to really go light, go and buy a new frontier polymer lower which is considerably lighter then metal ones.  Might I suggest Xring.

2. AR-15 upper receiver
I'd just buy a complete upper with bcg and charging handle in one.  Actually, I would suggest Rainier Arms Raptor Ambidextrous Charging Handle found here https://www.rainierarms.com/?page=shop/detail&product_id=3172 if you can afford it.  it really is quite nice.



3. Lower receiver parts kit
Doesnt really matter, if you do want a very nice trigger though, I'd go with a Geissele Hi-Speed National Match - Designated Marksman Rifle (DMR) Trigger $279.00  found at http://geissele.com/triggers.html  Don't know if this will work with a new frontier polymer lower.

4. Upper receiver parts kit
See 2.

5. Lower receiver extension (aka: the buffer tube)
anything, you aren't going in to combat and you aren't going for a sniper setup.  Buy what you think is quality and is in your price range.  You aren't gonna be able to tell the difference between a milspec or a commercial buffer tube.

6. Buffer
Depends on the gas system.  Carbine length=H or H2, Mid-length- H, maybe standard carbine

7. Buffer spring
See 5.

8. Barrel (a carbine length gas system would be typical for this build)
If going carbine length gas, a 14.5 pinned would be ok (this would pretty much just be a middle finger to the atf basically).  16 inch is fine with carbine.  I don't agree that there will be more wear for how much you'll be shooting.  I'd be very surprise if you could afford to shoot out a barrel in today's world where ammo cost so much.   Do you need a chrome lined barrel?  Well are you going to be bump firing 100 round mags or doing full auto 100 round mag dumps regularly?  If not, you don't really need it.  It's also a bit less accurate but I doubt you or 99% of us would be able to tell to be honest.  The twist rate and length would really depend on the weight bullet you are going to be firing.  do some research on this for yourself.  for your purposes, I'd think the shorter the better.

9. Hand-guards (length will depend on what length gas system you chose on your barrel: carbine, mid-length, or rifle)
Depends on what you want or need.  quad rail?  free floating?  carbon fiber?  Its all personal preference, the sky's the limit.  I like my quad rails but that's just me (I like to put a bipod on the bottom and a flip up front sight on the front).


10. Bolt carrier group (carrier, bolt, firing pin, cam, extractor, ejector and spring)
anything which has grade 8 screws and is staked properly.  You honestly will probably not be able to tell the difference if it is nickel boron coated or what not.  As long as you keep your gun clean and lubed (which I think all ar15's need to be in order to run smoothly) you'll be fine.


11. Collapsible stock
Personal preference.  Unless you have something in mind that you really want, I'd buy the cheapest out there just to start out with since you don't really know what to expect.  What I wouldn't do is waste time on a Recoil-reducing stock.  This is a .223 or a 5.56, not a 12guage high brass slug or 50cal bmg round we are talking about!  Recoils is as light as it gets for rifles!!!  I mean the only thing lower (practically) would perhaps be a .22lr


12. At least one magazine
2nd gen or 3rd gen Pmags with or without windows, they run fine.  Cheap now adays and I'd buy at least 10 (why 10?  I say why not!  hell buy 20)
also, get one of these because reloading sucks! http://www.midwayusa.com/product/170129/surefire-magazine-ar-15-223-remington-100-round-aluminum-matte?cm_vc=ProductFinding

1. 6.8 SPC - not the same as 5.56/.223 it's a different caliber all together.  If that's what you want that's fine.
2.  If you're not a licensed gunsmith do you really want to be mucking around with things that go boom?  If you assemble it yourself you're assuming all the responsibilities/liabilities that goes with that.  If your head spacing is off and your gun has a KB malfunction and hurts someone else, could you live with that?  Would you want to risk it?

+1, Unless you know how to check headspace and are willing to pay for the equipment to do so, just buy an upper which is put together already.  You really don't save any money by putting it together yourself and you really do not want to risk playing with the pressures .223 or a 5.56 round will make! 

Btw:  I wouldn't suggest you trusting someone (a buddy which thinks he knows what he is doing when putting an upper together) else to check your head spacing when putting together your rifle.  It's not their ass, hand, arm, or face on the line if something goes wrong.  You think a handgun going kaboom is bad, wait till you see what a rifle round can/will do...

I always like to check Midwayusa.com to see what is available (just type in ar15 uppers into the search box) as well as palmetto state armory.  Remember, you can slap any upper on to your lower so if you don't like it, sell it if you want to and buy another upper or keep it as a back up or something to modify/play around with.  Everyone needs an upper they can use with their slidefire. 

Whatever you do, do not buy a 7-14 inch barreled upper and slap it on to your lower as that would be a felony (its legal to own, not legal to put together or to use).  If you have a pistol lower which is regged and modded to be legal, it would be ok but if not, you really don't wanna go to jail for committing a felony!

Lastly, instead of a 6.8 SPC, you might want to take a look at the .300aac blackout.  For the distances and purposes you are shooting at, it doesn't make sense to go with a 6.8 SPC.

No decision on who's building it. Can't be that hard right with the correct tools?

the lower is not too hard (even with the wrong tools) but it is hard to get the upper right the first time, especially the upper's headspace.

To assemble the upper will require head space gauges and the barrel extension wrench, since the bolt turns and lock , it must be headspaced correctly. Incorrect headspace can be a big problem. Stick with a preassembled upper.

The lower is simple and lots of info on AR15.com and YouTube,

Look for used parts on the EE. (Ar15 classified).
I built a complete  AR , less receiver for $400

Are you building this to use at the HDF range day?

http://www.tieronearms.com/Noveske-Recon-Upper-NSR-LW-p/reconnsr-16lw.htm

http://www.tieronearms.com/Noveske-Afghan-NSR-p/afghannsr135nsr.htm

http://www.bravocompanyusa.com/BCM-AR15-Upper-Receiver-Group-AR15-s/118.htm

Found some complete uppers if you decide to go that route, soo many options that I just put some that I am looking at for myself... I may want another one now...

So far I'm pretty lost on choosing a barrel. Most say Novesky is great but they have so many that I don't know what to pick. No idea what a no gas, lo-pro gas, switchblock, lightweight contour, etc. is.

I went with a Daniel Defense 16" Lightweight barrel (referred to by most as a "pencil" profile barrel) for mine. https://danieldefense.com/cold-hammer-forged-barrels/16-inch-chf-barrels/16-5-56mm-1-7-lw-profile.html

I also chose the YMG Match LITE BCG https://www.rainierarms.com/?page=shop/detail&product_id=1010

I've had NO cycling problems ever and am using a standard "H" buffer though I have an "H2" as a spare.  Lightweight or Pencil barrels just don't have the extra bulk that "standard" or military profile barrels do.  If you look at a standard barrel you will see it is thicker from the muzzle end to just in front of where the FSP or gas block would be mounted, then there is a thinner section and then it goes back to the thicker diameter before approaching the increasing taper diameter at the chamber end.  In a Pencil barrel that extra material is milled off giving the barrel a smoother appearance from muzzle to chamber end.....milling off that extra material reduces the overall weight of the barrel while not compromising its abilities.  It will heat up a little faster but that shouldn't be a problem for your intended purposes....you aren't going to be engaged in a prolonged firefight with rapid cycling.....or.....nevermind 

1. 6.8 SPC - not the same as 5.56/.223 it's a different caliber all together.  If that's what you want that's fine.
2.  If you're not a licensed gunsmith do you really want to be mucking around with things that go boom?  If you assemble it yourself you're assuming all the responsibilities/liabilities that goes with that.  If your head spacing is off and your gun has a KB malfunction and hurts someone else, could you live with that?  Would you want to risk it?

Oh, I didn't know the numbers were the caliber sizes. So does that mean the "Lightweight Contour Barrel, 556" comes only as a Mid system with 14.5" and 16"? Does the length of the barrel determine if it's carbine or mid?

I like the suggestion of building the lower and buying the upper.

Building a lower teaches you a lot about how the AR is built. you can always build another upper later on.

Oh, I didn't know the numbers were the caliber sizes. So does that mean the "Lightweight Contour Barrel, 556" comes only as a Mid system with 14.5" and 16"? Does the length of the barrel determine if it's carbine or mid?

Difference between mid and carbine is the gas system.  That is its own debate on which is "better"...  Different barrel contours is basically different weights.