Anyone have a decent link or a good system on how to do this?
I haven't shot my ar yet so I'll have to do that when I get to shoot.

I have a matech rear and iron front sight. The lowest it looks like I goes on the matech is 200. I don't know if that's yards or meters.

Also, anyone know what's the closest we can set our targets on the rifle side?

TIA

The benches to the extreme right of the rifle range are marked black powder and they have pipes for target placement at 25 yards.

The benches to the extreme right of the rifle range are marked black powder and they have pipes for target placement at 25 yards.

Are we allowed to use them if we aren't using black powder?

Do you know if there's 50yrd placement pipes?

I have used those 25 yarders with my shotgun before and the RO didn't say anything and yes I believe there are 50 yard pipes there also. I think the on those benches BP has priority but if no BP shooters are there that they should be fair game for others. It would be best to check with an RO when you go.

Cool. Thanks.

Any tips on zeroing in buis?

For my ARs, I zero for 50m & 200m using the 50yd pipes at the rifle range..

I put the rear sight elevation at 200 m, and my target on the 50 yd line.  Once I have it zeroed on the 50, it should be good for about 200-220 yds ... somewhere close to 200m.

Here's the average bullet path traveled with a 50m zero.  Notice it crosses the ZERO (0) inches at 50yd range and almost the 200 yd range.  So this setting is zeroed for both those ranges.



Note also, the path is higher or lower when aiming at other distances, so you have to be aware of that and often compensate by aiming the number of inches above/below center (zero) on the chart. 

The difference from zero is a matter of a fraction to a couple of inches, which is why a center mass point of aim will get you in the ballpark.


Here's a pretty good intro video on zeroing:

This will help a lot. Thanks mauidog.

Btw, what do you guys use to adjust the elevation on your front iron sights if you do have that specific tool.

Btw, what do you guys use to adjust the elevation on your front iron sights if you do have that specific tool.

I bought a cheap sight adjustment tool on Amazon, but a 5.56 bullet tip works okay.  That's knda the way it was designed

I also like the 50m zero for it's relatively flat trajectory throughout the various distances. 

You might want to learn how to boresight, it's easy and will save you ammo.  Google search should have lots of tutorials.  They have lasers and other fancy gadgets that help but IMO you don't need them, the goal is to get on paper so doing it by eye is good enough.  If you have a spotting scope or some other magnification that helps a lot too as it's real hard to see the holes at 50m+.  You'll be able to make adjustments without having to wait for a cease fire to walk to your target.

Be sure to set your front post first then leave it alone.
Attached is an AR zeroing target but I might post it above or below my first target, and E-Z see (changes color)
Use the E-Z see to rough in your sights,  This will save you some spotting time trying to find the .223" hole.
Then fine tune on the AR target.

     Elevation/Zeroing instructions are on this target but are for 25/300 meter.
We set ours up this way for CC/SD/HD and can use the rear site to drop in for the  100/200 meter range. 
I suppose the math would be the same for 50/200 meter

Enjoy

I also like the 50m zero for it's relatively flat trajectory throughout the various distances. 

You might want to learn how to boresight, it's easy and will save you ammo.  Google search should have lots of tutorials.  They have lasers and other fancy gadgets that help but IMO you don't need them, the goal is to get on paper so doing it by eye is good enough.  If you have a spotting scope or some other magnification that helps a lot too as it's real hard to see the holes at 50m+.  You'll be able to make adjustments without having to wait for a cease fire to walk to your target.

Good suggestion on bore sight.  I use a laser bore sight, but an AR is easy to do with just a point of reference, some way to hold the upper steady, and some patience.

Separate the upper from the lower, make sure the iron sights are flipped up, and use a gun vise, sandbags, etc. to hold the upper steady. 

Find a point at about 50 yds away and, looking through the barrel, center the point you are aiming at inside that view through the barrel.

Then, look through the sights, making sure the upper stays in the same position, adjust as needed to align the sights on the target point.  You'll want to recheck the barrel is still on target if you move the upper making sight adjustments.

When the aim point is centered through both the bore (barrel) and the sights, you should be on paper at 50 yds.

Good luck!. 

You can actually do it much closer, I did a 50-yard zero from 5-yards away in my condo.  Took it to the range and I was within 1".

Here's the chart:



If you do it this way, your point of impact (looking through the bore) is going to be lower than your point of sight (your irons, red dot, etc).  So in my case what I did is I printed out a target and made a mark that was 2.4 inches BELOW the bullseye.  Then, looking through the bore, I lined it up with the mark I made.  After it was lined up, I lined up my sights with the bullseye.

Either method works but if you live in a condo like me, this is a good option since there's not a whole lot of space to sight at a longer distance.

  Well I guess I will chip-in, attach are two pdfs I found around the web (thanks for whomever that made them).  One is just a regular 25m target, the other one is with where your bullet drop shall be (I think). Also boresight are great way to help you get onto the paper, I had guys back the military that just can't find their shots @ 25 yrds on a 6 feet target stand. (not that they are bad shooters, just the sights weren't zeroed for them).

  Now I just have to figure out where shall I be zeroing for my Tavor..... anyone have any idea for the offset ?

I bought a cheap sight adjustment tool on Amazon, but a 5.56 bullet tip works okay.  That's knda the way it was designed

The AE 556 ammo I have is solid I'm assuming the ones you have are hollow point?

 

Lots of awesome useful info! Bore sighting sounds like fun, I've been wanting to do a quick strip down to clean and relube everything before first firing and since everything is out I can do the bore sighting and maybe even get my sons to help me.

The AE 556 ammo I have is solid I'm assuming the ones you have are hollow point?

Start at mark 1:00......

Start at mark 1:00......

Got it.

So, I did the bore sighting on at 5yds with the 2.4" drop so hopefully that'll help when I get to the range. The wife also surprised me with buying me my first red dot (bushnell trs-25) so that should be before the next weekend.

I'll be printing and using all the info posted here. Thank you to everyone who had something to add and shout out to Dirsh for following up and offering to help me out at the range.


Btw, can anyone tell me how much targets I can use on my frame? All I know is that it's a tall slim frame (unlike the pistol frame) and can go up to 80" past the 12" legs and the targets are posted vertically. Can I put as many targets as I can fit on there or is there a limit?

You can put as many as can fit. Since you'll be zeroing I would suggest keeping the first set of targets in the middle, going up and down. Meaning don't put em side by side. You'll end up shooting up your frame.

I would also highly suggest doing like how talula does and make the whole board a DIY shoot-n-c. You'll be able to see where you're hitting and save you time, ammo and headaches