Can anyone recommend a good armorer who works on AR-15s on Oahu? 

I'd like to replace my commercial buffer tube with a mil spec buffer tube, but I don't have the necessary lower vice, wrenches, workbench, etc.  So I'd like to find someone with a good reputation  who could do the job for me at a reasonable price.

Thank you for your suggestions.

See the guys at x-ring.

See the guys at x-ring.

The only reason I'd change from commercial to mil spec would be because I couldn't find a particular commercial buttstock. Is that the case?

I have a torch and a hacksaw if needed.

Dogman - Just curious.  What makes you prefer the commercial spec buffer tubes? 

My understanding had always been that they are slightly stronger aluminum, slightly lighter, and have slightly deeper threads that go into the receiver.  The differences seemed to favor the mil spec tubes, even if it is only a slight difference.  But if there are reasons to stick with commercial, I'm curious. 

In my case I already have a couple of mil spec buffer tubes, so cost isn't really a factor for me on this right now.

I hope I'm understanding this right.  You just want to switch your buffer tube?  All you have to do is unscrew it, and replace it with another.  I'm guessing you haven't assembled a lower before.  You can literally do it in your lap while watching tv.  The only tool you'd need for that job is an ar castle nut tool.  Look up some videos an see how easy it is.

I don't prefer the commercial buffer tube, in fact I will always buy mil spec if available. My understanding is that there is very little, if any difference in performance between the two. One advantage of a mil spec buffer tube is there is generally a better selection of butt stocks available. So if you are satisfied with the butt stock selection for your commercial buffer tube I see no reason to change it. And as OldFaithful said, they are pretty easy to change as long as it is not staked.

First timers forget about or dont know about the Buffer tube detent spring.

Best to have someone who knows show you the first time.  Failure to tighten the castle nut properly can be catastrophic.

Modern Mil-Spec tubes are thinner and lighter at 3.7 oz on 6-Position Tubes.  Some 3-Position Tubes are heavy 4.4 oz

Commercial tubes are .030" larger and 3/4" longer and have more stocks available
They were made so you could not take military colt parts and put them on your civilian rifle.
A typical liberal stupidity. avg weight 4.8 to 5.5 oz

First timers forget about or dont know about the Buffer tube detent spring.

Best to have someone who knows show you the first time.  Failure to tighten the castle nut properly can be catastrophic.

Modern Mil-Spec tubes are thinner and lighter at 3.7 oz on 6-Position Tubes.  Some 3-Position Tubes are heavy 4.4 oz

Commercial tubes are .030" larger and 3/4" longer and have more stocks available
They were made so you could not take military colt parts and put them on your civilian rifle.
A typical liberal stupidity. avg weight 4.8 to 5.5 oz

If you had a commercial buffer tube on your AR and you were satisfied with it's features, would you change it to a mil spec tube for any of the reasons given in this thread? I disagree with commercial tubes having more stocks available based on my own experiences. Personally, as long as I can find a CTR or ACS-L stock (in the right color) for a commercial tube, I wouldn't change it. My first choice will always be the mil spec buffer tube, but if I were to acquire a lower or rifle with a commercial tube I wouldn't change it just to have a mil spec tube.

Just go to Amazon or Midway or wherever and spend $15 on an armorer's tool and learn to do it yourself. It's really not that complicated.

Ill swap it for you free....just bring it

I hope I'm understanding this right.  You just want to switch your buffer tube?  All you have to do is unscrew it, and replace it with another.  I'm guessing you haven't assembled a lower before.  You can literally do it in your lap while watching tv.  The only tool you'd need for that job is an ar castle nut tool.  Look up some videos an see how easy it is.

If it's staked, which any decent tube would be, it's not quite that easy. Also some "budget" companies will loctite them on.

If it's staked, which any decent tube would be, it's not quite that easy. Also some "budget" companies will loctite them on.

I've had factory assembled lowers from Colt, BCM & DD and they were all staked well, but they all came off with an "OK" amount of force.  However, if they put on the red loctite, then it's going to be a PITA!

I have never seen a factory gun with red loctite. I have had customers bring them in with red loctite that they did. Bust out the torch to get those loose!

If it's staked, which any decent tube would be, it's not quite that easy. Also some "budget" companies will loctite them on.

Staking it doesn't really prevent it from turning with any significant force; it just reduces the risk of it vibrating loose. It'll still come off pretty easily with a castle nut wrench.

I guess it would be a bit harder to remove a staked one if you don't have a vice though.

Noticed you're selling a Milspec tube, what happened?

I have never seen a factory gun with red loctite. I have had customers bring them in with red loctite that they did. Bust out the torch to get those loose!

Knights Armament loctites theirs, so Ive heard.  Never had a reason to pull a buffer tube from a SR15 to find out.  For the OP, all you need is a spanner wrench and some muscle, Ive broke tq holding the receiver against the floor with my foot while turning the nut.