Hi reloaders,
I thought I had asked this question before but I couldn't find it again. So, sorry if you are sharing the same answers.

If I were to get a Lee Precision Breech Lock Challenger Kit, what else would I need to get started with reloading?

I know bullets, brass, powder, primer, and dies, but what after that? Also is there anything important I should know about the dies?

You will need a tumbler, bullet puller, reloading trays (to hold your shells), and reloading manuals.

That's a single stage press so, if you plan on doing volume (like pistol ammo), you might want to change what you are buying as far as the press goes.  That single stage type is great for more of the precision bench shooting/hunting rounds, but if you want to dump ammo when you shoot, there are turret/progressive presses that are better suited.

The powder drop is good depending on the type of powder you use.  Ball type powders tend to work well, but others may not meter so well.  If you don't go ball, you can look into an electric powder scale with a trickler to meter out the powder for you.

The hand primer can be substituted out if you use a turret/progressive as those hook up to the press.  That Lee hand primer is nice, but if the primers go in wrong it can lock the cartridge and the shell holder together in the priming tool.........stuck, can't go forward, can't take the cartridge out, can't take the shell holder out.  The RCBS universal is a bit of a better design.  It costs more, but you don't get the shells/holder/priming tool stuck together.
https://shop.rcbs.com/WebConnect/MainServlet?storeId=webconnect&catalogId=webconnect&langId=en_US&action=ProductDisplay&screenlabel=index&productId=2885&route=C06J030

Case prep is an area that takes a huge amount of time.  I'd suggest a powered case trimmer instead of a hand (again if you plan on doing volume).  My friend found these guys.  Makes trimming so much faster:
http://www.giraudtool.com/prod02.htm

I'd also suggest a headspace gauge to tell if your shells are still in spec:
http://www.midwayusa.com/Product/685086/le-wilson-case-length-headspace-gage-30-06-springfield

You will also need a solid & heavy bench to mount the press to.  It doesn't take much to tilt whatever bench/desktop you've mounted your press to.

I'm sure there's other stuff, but I can't remember right now.

Go with Dillon.  Lifetime warranty. 

Oh, I forgot, I'm gonna need to keep this cheap (but still decent quality) to convince the powers that be that it is worth it

Oh, I forgot, I'm gonna need to keep this cheap (but still decent quality) to convince the powers that be that it is worth it

Then don't get Dillon

Run the numbers into the thousands of rounds, then see if the different presses are worth it..............they probably are.

Lee is fine.  For the price, you can get a single stage for your high accuracy rifle stuff, and a turret for the pistol higher volume stuff. 

For dies, don't use the Lee rifle dies, they work the brass way too much, and you'll have to toss brass way more frequently.  One exception is the Lee collet neck die, this die is the best way, IMO, to size necks on rifle cases.  For hunting type ammo I use a Redding body die in conjunction with the collet die.
I use Redding S type bushing dies and competition seaters for my high precision stuff.
Lee Carbide pistol dies are fine for straight wall pistol cartridges.  Good value there.

I've been eyeballing so called 'better' presses, but the Lee that I started off with, after thousands of rounds, is still producing some damn accurate rounds, I just can't bring myself to spend that much more on a new press.  Maybe later, when I got extra cash to splurge.

If you get a turret DO NOT get the Lee Delux Turret.  It's design is flawed, in that the spent primers drop down into the base of the press,  .  Instead spend a little more on the Classic turret, this is a much better and stronger design.

Get a good scale! Don't bother with the Lee balance beam, it works, but it is a major PITA to work with.  I have a 'tuned' Redding balance beam, and a RCBS Chargemaster.  For bulk rifle charges the Chargemaster will get it within +/- .1, I use the Redding balance for the high precision stuff, and I throw charges for the pistol stuff using the Lee Auto Disk powder measure mounted on the turret. (for the thrown charges, after initial setup, I'll check/weigh every tenth or so charge, just to be sure the powder throw is still within spec)

Case prep is an area that takes a huge amount of time.  I'd suggest a powered case trimmer instead of a hand (again if you plan on doing volume).  My friend found these guys.  Makes trimming so much faster:
http://www.giraudtool.com/prod02.htm

To me, case trimming, chamfering and deburring is the least enjoyable step in the process.  If you do not go the motorized route, you may want to look into the RCBS trip pro set up with the 3 way cutters.  Once the 3 way cutters are adjusted, manual case trimming is not that bad.

So basically all I need to get started would be the Lee Single Stage Press, some dies with a case length gauge and lock bushings for each caliber, and the consumables? And maybe a better scale?

It looks like the Lee kit comes with a case trimmer that you can hook up to a power drill which should hopefully make things fast.

Do I need the headspace gauges or would measuring the COAL work?

Is there any advantage to going with a turret press as opposed to a single stage? I mean it seems to make sense if you are going to go a full step up to progressive, but not to turret. Am I wrong?
I don't plan on doing any type of real volume. Right now I have much more time at home than at the range. Anyway, a progressive press can still come in the future.

I can either make or pick up a bench on craigslist.

Anything else I am overlooking?

I have been trimming with the Lee case length gauge from the start, and I don't see any reason to get anything more expensive. It does hook up to a drill or electric cordless screwdriver, and that is what I use to trim.

What cartridges are you going to reload? Are they for an automatic rifle or bolt action? Pistol?
Many answers depend on this.

I was thinking definitely .270 Win and maybe 9mm .40 S&W and .223 Rem. I think I will save the most with .270 as I can buy the rest in bulk and decent prices. I hope to add .338 LM some day as well

Forgot...  you will need a good caliper to measure cases and COAL...

.270?  It makes a lot of sense to load rifle cartridges on a single stage press, reason being, bottle necked rifle cases need extra attention to load properly.
This is my method of setting up and reloading rifle cases, in a hunting rifle.  (correct or incorrect? I don't know. You'll get a millon different ways to do it, but this is the most effective way I found for my self.)

.30-06, same as a .270 just with a different size bullet, assuming this is the first time I am setting up the dies for this particular rifle.

1. Tumble clean the cases, fired in this rifle's chamber, check clean cases for neck splits and case head separation.

2. Neck size and decap using the Lee collet neck die.

3. Body size (use lube) at least 3 fire formed cases with the Redding body die backed off touching the shell holder 1/2 a turn.

4. Use the Lee case length gauge for this cartridge to trim the 3 cases to the correct length.

5. Try the sized brass (empty and unprimed of course) in the bolt rifle.  At this point the case should be too long to close the bolt easily and the bolt should feel like it is dragging, if not then the case has not fireformed to the maximum dimension of the chamber yet, and you will be able to shoot the case a few more times until it does become fireformed to the size of the chamber.  When the cases are too long to close the bolt easily then the body die can be turned down a little at a time, the case sized, tried in the chamber.  When the bolt can be closed easily with very little 'dragging', then you know the case is being sized minimally to the size of the chamber in your rifle.

set aside one of the correctly sized empty cases for later...
(this is how to get away without a headspace measuring device, for bolt guns only, as long as you are loading for one gun and not going to be changing the die setup once set) 

6. If the bolt closes easily, then continue doing the sizing, decapping, trimming, and primer pocket cleaning on all the cases.  I usually wipe the lube off the cases when the case is chucked in the drill for the trim and deburr of the case.

7. Recap all the cases, set on the side ready to be reloaded.  Whew...  by this time you'll want to take a break.

8. Take that empty case that you set aside earlier, Seat a bullet long in the empty unprimed case, close it in the rifle.  Did the bullet get stuck in the lands?  if so, pop it out and seat it a little deeper until it doesn't get stuck, and is seated deeper in the case by the bolt.  Do this a few times, taking measurements of the overall length.  Now with the bullet not getting pushed back into the case anymore by the bolt closing, you have discovered the Maximum Jam length for that particular bullet shape.  For hunting rifles you don't want the bullet jammed and risk pulling the bullet and spilling the powder when unloading (this jammed state can also cause over pressure!), so seat the bullet .015-.020" deeper and start from there.  Or, if this length does not fit in the magazine then seat the bullet to Mag length, and start load development from that length.  You need to do this for any new bullet you want to try because different bullets have different ogives and will seat at different lengths to jam the lands.  When you are done, and noted all the pertinent data then pull the bullet and shoot it as a fowler.

9. Start the charging for load development, using the method of your choosing. (Weigh every one of your rifle charges using a good scale)  I'd recommend OCW method by Dan Newberry.  This uses the least amount of consumables and is very quick for finding that load that will shoot very well in any given rifle.  I've used this meathod for my 6mmBR and shot it to 600 yards with great results.  At this point I also apply a crimp using the Lee Factory Crimp die.  This is optional, but for field use rounds I want them secure.  Match rounds, I don't crimp at all..

10. Keep all your notes!  (measurments, bullet types, primer types, powder type and charge, and the results from testing both good and bad)  This will help you increase your efficientcy when working a load for a new bullet/powder combo in the future.

Most important parts to all this??  Maximum case length is maintained.  Cases that have stretched too long will have the necks pinched in the throat of the rifle. This will not allow the bullet to be released properly when fired, and will cause overpressure.  Maximum Jam length is avoided.  This may also cause over pressure or bullet being stuck in the lands when unloaded.  One can shoot rifles with the bullet 'jammed', and many do, but that is a whole different story altogether. Match rounds in my 6BR are also a much different method, but this method has worked very well for my .30-06 out to 600 yards.

If I am missing something or have any comments let me know. 

Straight walled pistol cases do not need as much attention as do bottle necked rifle cases, because the brass does not stretch as much when fired. Therefore, it is easier to load them in bulk on a turret or progressive.  I'll talk more on this a little later.

As stated earlier, the Lee case trimmer is hard to beat for the price. I prefer the Lee cutter with the wooden ball handle, as opposed to the orginal cutter with out the ball.

The Lee powder measure may not work too well with fine ball powder. It may leak with powders such as 748, h335. blc2.etc. Extruded powder should work ok with the Lee powder measure. The Lee press is ok and it should give years of service. I would prefer a more robust press like a rock chucker or hornady, just my 2 cents. Jobs like case forming maybe a long way off for you and you can always up grade later as the need arises and as funds will allow.

I've trimmed over 1000 cases of 223 and found that my  Lee case trimmer tip started to mushroom and now have began to cut below SAAMI specs.  I'm currently waiting on my RCBS case trimmer to come in from Midway. 

8. Take that empty case that you set aside earlier, Seat a bullet long in the empty unprimed case, close it in the rifle.  Did the bullet get stuck in the lands?  if so, pop it out and seat it a little deeper until it doesn't get stuck, and is seated deeper in the case by the bolt.  Do this a few times, taking measurements of the overall length.  Now with the bullet not getting pushed back into the case anymore by the bolt closing, you have discovered the Maximum Jam length for that particular bullet shape.  For hunting rifles you don't want the bullet jammed and risk pulling the bullet and spilling the powder when unloading (this jammed state can also cause over pressure!), so seat the bullet .015-.020" deeper and start from there.  Or, if this length does not fit in the magazine then seat the bullet to Mag length, and start load development from that length.  You need to do this for any new bullet you want to try because different bullets have different ogives and will seat at different lengths to jam the lands.  When you are done, and noted all the pertinent data then pull the bullet and shoot it as a fowler.

When you're doing this process, do you remove the firing pin assembly from the bolt?  I watched a youtube video a guy (benchrest shooter from Texas) posted, and he was doing this exact same thing, except in order to more accurately find the lands, he pulled out his firing pin (I assume the extractor came with it?).  At any rate, once he used his handy little tool to pull the firing pin, the bolt handle would just flop down into the fully-closed position with gravity alone.  Then he kept progressively seating the bullet deeper until he reached the point that his bolt would just fall shut. 

If you don't do that, how do you tell the difference between the normal feel of the bolt closing and the little extra resistance of the bolt forcing the bullet slightly into the lands? 

The other method I've seen is to take a case, put a slit in the neck so  you can sort of resize it by hand enough to gently hold the bullet, then chamber it and carefully extract it.  Theoretically, the bullet pushes itself into the case because the resistance of the case neck is less than that of the lands.  Of course, this method is also flawed because the bullet can sort of stick in the lands and be pulled out slightly when it's extracted, which would obviously cause you to get an erroneously long measurement.  Just curious, thanks for the info!

Quote from: Heavies on October 23, 2011, 05:05:49 AM

8. Take that empty case that you set aside earlier, Seat a bullet long in the empty unprimed case, close it in the rifle.  Did the bullet get stuck in the lands?  if so, pop it out and seat it a little deeper until it doesn't get stuck, and is seated deeper in the case by the bolt.  Do this a few times, taking measurements of the overall length.  Now with the bullet not getting pushed back into the case anymore by the bolt closing, you have discovered the Maximum Jam length for that particular bullet shape.  For hunting rifles you don't want the bullet jammed and risk pulling the bullet and spilling the powder when unloading (this jammed state can also cause over pressure!), so seat the bullet .015-.020" deeper and start from there.  Or, if this length does not fit in the magazine then seat the bullet to Mag length, and start load development from that length.  You need to do this for any new bullet you want to try because different bullets have different ogives and will seat at different lengths to jam the lands.  When you are done, and noted all the pertinent data then pull the bullet and shoot it as a fowler.

When you're doing this process, do you remove the firing pin assembly from the bolt?  I watched a youtube video a guy (benchrest shooter from Texas) posted, and he was doing this exact same thing, except in order to more accurately find the lands, he pulled out his firing pin (I assume the extractor came with it?).  At any rate, once he used his handy little tool to pull the firing pin, the bolt handle would just flop down into the fully-closed position with gravity alone.  Then he kept progressively seating the bullet deeper until he reached the point that his bolt would just fall shut. 

If you don't do that, how do you tell the difference between the normal feel of the bolt closing and the little extra resistance of the bolt forcing the bullet slightly into the lands? 

The other method I've seen is to take a case, put a slit in the neck so  you can sort of resize it by hand enough to gently hold the bullet, then chamber it and carefully extract it.  Theoretically, the bullet pushes itself into the case because the resistance of the case neck is less than that of the lands.  Of course, this method is also flawed because the bullet can sort of stick in the lands and be pulled out slightly when it's extracted, which would obviously cause you to get an erroneously long measurement.  Just curious, thanks for the info!

I don't use any feel too it.  I just take measurements with the caliper, at least 2 to 3 times, to get  a consistent reading, using the same bullet and case.  This point at which the bullet is not being seated deeper is probably past the touch point and is slightly 'into the lands' a bit.  This measurement would be maximum length before the bullet is seated deeper by the bolt.    I am not trying to find the exact touching point.  My theory is that you need to be either off the lands by at least .010" or jamming .010", because if you want to just 'touch' the lands you would have to sort each and every bullet by the bearing surface. (I have tried this, and it is real time consuming)  They all differ slightly in length due to manufacture die wear, or something like that.  Also, If you are loading for a factory rifle, you probably will not be able to tell the difference in accuracy.  Bench guns/custom rifles are built to much much tighter tolerances, much higher barrel quality, and tighter hand fits with minimal headspace.

Benchrest shooting is a whole different ball o wax...  One could go nutz thinking of, and trying to eliminate, all the slight variables in the reloading process to get the most consistent ammo possible.

Do I need the headspace gauges or would measuring the COAL work?

You need both.  Case gauge to check for proper headspace & a caliper for COAL.