Metal targets (Read 11047 times)

mosin nagant

Metal targets
« on: June 10, 2016, 09:34:00 PM »
I'm returning to the range after many years away. My question is can I make and use my own metal targets at the Kokohead range?

rolandda01

Re: Metal targets
« Reply #1 on: June 10, 2016, 09:44:33 PM »
100 yard line and 2 anchor points have been the only common theme in my "qualified" steel plates

mosin nagant

Re: Metal targets
« Reply #2 on: June 20, 2016, 03:36:55 PM »
Any pictures of your targets?

stangzilla

Re: Metal targets
« Reply #3 on: June 20, 2016, 03:41:53 PM »
galvanized pipe

urusaibob

Re: Metal targets
« Reply #4 on: June 21, 2016, 06:31:04 PM »
galvanized pipe



nice same idea i had in mind to make mines. is that 1/2 or 5/8 pipe? 2 or 3 feet section pipe?

thanks

stangzilla

Re: Metal targets
« Reply #5 on: June 21, 2016, 06:49:45 PM »
It's 3 foot sections of 3/4 inch pipe

Heavies

Re: Metal targets
« Reply #6 on: June 26, 2016, 11:17:03 AM »
Working on something that I may sell. This is HeaviesLite V2 steel target stand.

Light weight and easily broken down and transported

Easily replaceable legs. 
No matter how good of a shot you are, your buddies ain't.  We all know 'that guy' (wink) will end up shooting the legs.  Steel needs a welder to fix. Mine are self serviceable.

You can stack targets on top of each other, or your standard Koko Head rifle target frame on top.

This is what it looks like after a couple hundred 556 and 30-06 from a Garand. Legs would be fine if 'my friend' hadn't skipped a few off the dirt into the legs.  The damage is mostly cosmetic at this point however, but I would be able to swap them out very easily if I cared to.  This is about 3 trips to the range so far and seems to be holding up very well.

Mr. Farknocker

Re: Metal targets
« Reply #7 on: June 26, 2016, 06:41:49 PM »
I mounted a steel target to my wooden stand with one bolt with a stiff spring behind the plate to allow the plate to swing. It functioned well. I was told however that i would need  two anchor points the next time in order to keep the target perpendicular to the shooter.

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Mr. Farknocker

Re: Metal targets
« Reply #8 on: June 26, 2016, 06:43:00 PM »
See me last post.



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Heavies

Re: Metal targets
« Reply #9 on: June 27, 2016, 11:14:31 PM »
I mounted a steel target to my wooden stand with one bolt with a stiff spring behind the plate to allow the plate to swing. It functioned well. I was told however that i would need  two anchor points the next time in order to keep the target perpendicular to the shooter.

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huum.  No one ever said anything to me about this or my other versions I've been testing.  Some had two points some one point.

Flapp_Jackson

Re: Metal targets
« Reply #10 on: June 27, 2016, 11:31:19 PM »
huum.  No one ever said anything to me about this or my other versions I've been testing.  Some had two points some one point.

I remember being told about the 2-point connection rule.  That was for plates with 2 eyelets, I think.  I also use 3" plates on the 50, each dangling from a single section of chain.  Those plates only have one eyelet.  I make sure the chain is holding the plate so it's facing the shooter, though.  Since I'm only using rimfire ammo on those, they don't seem to mind.  and they always return to facing the shooter after a strike.

My rule of thumb is, if it has more than one eyelet, use at least 2 sections of chain to attach it.
The reasonable man adapts himself to the world;
the unreasonable one persists in trying to adapt the world to himself.
Therefore, all progress depends on the unreasonable man.
-- George Bernard Shaw

roscoe

Re: Metal targets
« Reply #11 on: April 13, 2017, 07:24:33 PM »
I was told the plink targets need to be set back about a foot due to when the rounds hits and splatters, sometimes it tears the neighbors paper targets to the sides

Flapp_Jackson

Re: Metal targets
« Reply #12 on: April 13, 2017, 08:55:14 PM »
I was told the plink targets need to be set back about a foot due to when the rounds hits and splatters, sometimes it tears the neighbors paper targets to the sides

Actually, setting the metal target a few inches in front of the target line directs the splatter away, too.

I experimented with plates hanging behind a normal wooden rifle target frame, and again with them attached to the front.  Putting the horizontal pieces of wood in front of the uprights (toward the shooter), and attaching the target chains in front of that redirects the splatter enough forward to avoid hitting the frame much.  That means it'll miss the targets on either side, too.

Targets attached to the back of the frame destroyed the uprights!

 
« Last Edit: April 13, 2017, 09:00:35 PM by Flapp_Jackson »
The reasonable man adapts himself to the world;
the unreasonable one persists in trying to adapt the world to himself.
Therefore, all progress depends on the unreasonable man.
-- George Bernard Shaw

rklapp

Re: Metal targets
« Reply #13 on: April 13, 2017, 09:42:28 PM »
I bought the metal hinges from Amazon. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00VR6XL16/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The 2x4 gets a lot of splash damage but is easily replaced. The legs are cheap metal conduits. I've been experimenting with different connectors and this has lasted two trips without breaking the chain. I like the gong sound that the free hanging targets make.

Some people just use two metal poles that they place in the ground holes with two chains connected to the metal targets. I think this might cause too much damage to the plastic tubes in the ground but it's been a long standing practice.
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