It was a nice and slow day at the range. Not too many shooters and there was a sporadic breeze. I was having slam fires with both .223 and 300BLK, so I think I need to adjust the trigger to make it less sensitive. I lost about 1 out of 20 rounds.

AR-15: RL15 22.6 to 23.4 gn with Nosler 77 gn (23.4 not shown). The 23.0 gn grouped best at 0.541" mean radius. The results were continuous between the five loads. I also made several practice rounds with the remainder of the ARcomp 19.5 gn with FMJ 55 gn. It shot a couple inches to the right and down but was a great plinker for the metal targets.



300BLK: W296 13.6 to 14.4 gn with Hornady V-max that were resized to .308". The 13.8 gn grouped best, but the results for the five loads were not continuous because of the trigger problems. I also made practice rounds with W296 14.0 gn and FMJ 147 gn. In addition, I tried out 10 rounds of my new Nosler 190 gn with W296 11 gn. Call me crazy but they seemed to shoot a lot smoother. I will be focusing on the Noslers now instead of the resized Hornadys.



AK-47: RL7 20.6 to 21.4 gn with Hornady V-max .310" at 50 yards. I still have over 500 of these bullets. I'm also starting to use the 500 used brass I bought. The 21.0 gn grouped best at 0.803" mean radius, but the results were not continuous between the five loads. Dexter Lum threaded the barrel to add a 14x1 LH muzzle break. He had to shave down the heavy barrel to get the break to fit. The result was a lighter recoil but apparently not much help with accuracy.



For the metal targets, they ran out of black spray paint at Fisher so I got Pacific Blue instead. The problem with the 6" target is that it flips over with the .30 caliber bullets but works great with the .22 calibers.

Look what I have created!!!

I bought a cheap rotary saw and decided to make my own 300BLK in my vise. I used my Lee trim gauge and it worked wonderfully. Update: I tried making 8 more until the bit bent so back to the drawing board.



I also loaded my new Nosler 190 gn bullets with LilGun plus some plinking rounds with the surplus .308 bullets.

It was a nice day at the range today with a light breeze and not too busy. I seem to get the second to the right bench lately which I like because it's tall. Of course, this means that the first bench is usually occupied by first timers to the range who fling brass at me from their AR. The RO then sets up the brass deflector (it's not really a catcher). By 3 pm, there's only me and two guys left so they were nice enough to move over. Afterwards, I bought a tripod chronograph from Winter36, so I'll need to get one of the left side benches from now on where it's flatter and I can set it up ten feet out. It's pretty cool because it connects with my iPhone.

One of the ROs doesn't like the way my metal targets can swing from side to side. His point is that if I hit the metal target on the side and it swings to the side, this can send shrapnel toward the other ranges or the Kokohead hikers (God forbid). My plan is to drill the holes further apart so the chain is spread out more. Hopefully this will work.

I bought a shooting bag set from RSRJ. I've been using my Rock Jr. which works fine but wanted to try the bag. It doesn't feel like real shooting... more like dialing in the shots. It definitely makes a difference in accuracy. I couldn't get the rear bag to work with the AK, yet I'll keep using it with the other rifles.



MN 91/30: I made 25 rounds of Varget 38.4gn with Hornady 150gn .312 SP bullet at 50 yards. I shot five at the metal target and all hit. The first four had a two inch group. The next four were on the bottom so not sure what happened there. Two were on top and the other ten grouped nicely in the center.



I had a little success with the cast boolits. I hit paper three times with the RL7  20gn and three times with 25gn but they keyholed. I had more success with the 15gn (red box) using a filler material to keep the powder near the primer, although two appear to be a bit keyhole. Time for me to buy more RL7 (and Inspector's favorite 4198). I'll report back if I see any leading issues while cleaning. (See subsequent post below.) The other three holes are plinking rounds I made with the Speer 180gn .311 bullets. They're okay but not as good as the Hornady .312.



300BLK: The barrel really likes the Nosler 190gn HP with LilGun. Tried 8 to 12 gn and the 10gn grouped best. The upper left and upper middle are 8gn (dammit!) and lower right is 12gn. Still having problems with slamfires and losing about 1 out of 5 rounds. I loosened the trigger but it's still at 2.5#. Next time, I'll go back to CCI primers and see if this makes a difference. The double round goes off when I release the trigger and the firing pin returns to the firing position. This happens on both .223 and .300BLK BCG.



I had feeding issues with the cases I converted. Some of them don't quite fit into the Lyman checker by like 0.01" to 0.001" (I'm guessing). I found out that the Lee dies are not the best for converting brass. I plan to process the fired cases and see if it will fit better into the checker. (See subsequent post below.) The group on the top are with the surplus 147gn bullet with converted brass and the group in the middle is with the Nosler 190gn, both with LilGun 11.0gn. Big difference between the two. (The two on the left are the keyholed 25gn rounds from before.



AK-VEPR: I was hoping that the Speer 150gn .311 bullets with CFEBLK 23.5gn shot better but not so today. They worked well for me in the past. The only difference is the muzzle break I added. The RL7 21.0gn with the Hornady V-max .310 worked great today at 50 yards.

Time for me to buy more RL7 (and Inspector's favorite 4198).

I also use H4895 almost as much. The nice thing about the H4895 is you can develop loads with it per the Hodgdon white paper. And you can use it with lead boolits of the proper diameter and/or jacketed bullets. No need for trying to find published data other than the white paper and the stated maximum load. H4895 is about as universal as any powder available. I find it listed in most of my reloading manuals and most of the cartridges I load. It's kinda like a jack of all trades. I actually recommend you try this powder first because of this.

The IMR 4198 works well with lead boolits with reduced loads using the proper diameter boolit. The advantage that IMR 4198 has is that is more economical than most other rifle powders and it is hard to double charge a case in most cases. If you decide to try the IMR 4198, let me know if you need load data and I will try and find some for you.

I've been using the IMR 4895 that I bought from someone. Sometimes it's similar in the load data and sometimes it's not so not sure if it work work the same. H4895 was the first powder I bought at Young Guns.

https://www.hodgdon.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/11/h4895-reduced-rifle-loads.pdf

I've been using the IMR 4895 that I bought from someone. Sometimes it's similar in the load data and sometimes it's not so not sure if it work work the same. H4895 was the first powder I bought at Young Guns.

https://www.hodgdon.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/11/h4895-reduced-rifle-loads.pdf

I can absolutely state 100% that the two powders are not the same. They also have different burn speeds and pressure curves. And if you read the white paper they basically state to only use H4895 in this reduced load role. If Hodgdons doesn't recommend it I would not attempt it. So I am not sure why you wonder if they can be used interchangeably? H4895 is made in Australia and I4895 is made in Canada by two completely different companies with two different product codes. If you want to know if two powders are the same like H110 and W296 or different like I4895 and H4895 then look up their MSDS sheets and compare the product codes. Same product code, same powder. Different product code, different powder..

I suggest you Google light loads blowing up guns. There are theories that fast burning pistol powders in large rifle cases can cause up to 4x the pressure desired or not burn the entire amount of powder causing a squib load that you may not catch. If not caught the next shot can be catostrophic. It is also thought that light loads with slow burning rifle powders in large rifle cases can cause detonation in the case and blow yourself and your gun up. Not to mention the people next to you. You should only follow published data from reliable sources. H4895 has been found by Hodgdons to have just the right burn speed and pressure curve so you can safely load reduced powder loads if you follow their published guidelines. And Titegroup has been found by Hodgdons to not cause the out of control pressure curves and not burn partially to cause squibs so they actually recommend Titegroup in a reduced load for .223 and .308 on their website.

I cannot stress safety enough and following published guidelines to a tee when reloading.

So I am not sure why you wonder if they can be used interchangeably?

I wasn't sure if they could be used interchangeably which is why I mentioned it. They look similar on the burn rate/density chart. I appreciate the advice.

The processed brass that I converted from .223 fits into the gauge after the initial firing. I was using Kaleo brass which is great but wanted longer necks so I can trim to the same COAL.



Also, no major leading problems after shooting the cast boolits from the MN. I used a lead test to verify plus no chunks found.

It was the Day of the Chronograph at the range. I got there at 10 am and the tables were half empty at noon. The rest filled up in the next 30 minutes. I initially tried the Limbsaver on the .223 and as expected, didn't seem to make a difference so back to Amazon it goes. It was fun to try.

I set up the Caldwell chrono at the far left table which has the flattest ground in front. The problem is that the table is short so I have to crouch very low. Nothing that my chiropractor couldn't fix. Prone is also difficult for me. It took about 30 minutes to set up 15 feet out from the table. I installed the LED light shields for accuracy. Unfortunately, the chrono goes ape shit bananas in the sun so I moved it in under the shade about 4 feet out. This started working great with no errors until the 7th set when I got all errors (see attached tables). At the break, I moved it back to the edge of the shade again (about 6 feet from the table), but then couldn't measure anything for the last 3 sets. A friend told me that chronos stop working around 2 pm as the sun passes by and this was at 1:30 so I figure that might be what's happening. I then shot 15 plinking rounds and all measured fine, although the SD was bad. I subsequently had no problems with the pistol and AK shots so not sure why the chrono decided to stop working for the TAC rounds then start up again.



AR-15: TAC 22.2 to 24.0 gn (10 sets) with Nosler 62 gn HP. I shot each set consecutively because I was afraid I'd mix up the loads for the chrono. These were some of my best individual results at 0.291" mean radius. However, the results are not continuous among the ten sets so it's difficult to decide where to go next. 22.6 gn is on the left and 23.8 gn on the right. (Note: the attached charts are off by 0.2 gn. Don't ask.)



AK-47: I forgot to move the frame back to 50 yards and I had to pick up my wife from work, so I just measured a few velocities (no errors) and called it a day. Comparing the velocity to the published load data, I'm right in the ball park.

curious what kind of reloading equipment you have?

curious what kind of reloading equipment you have?

Lee single stage, Lee dies, nothing fancy. I'm using the RCBS neck sizing die for the 54r (bolt rifle). RCBS measurer but also keep the Lee measurer around for the extruded powders. I also use the Hornady Lock n Load Bench Scale which allows me to reload with a fan blowing on me. I weigh each charge unless I'm feeling confident with the powder throws.

When I process brass, I use the Lee decapper then quick ultrasound to get out the gunk. After resizing and trimming, I place in a tumbler for three hours and it comes out mostly shiny. Not mirror but shiny enough for me. I use the Lee single stage to prime the brass.

try bedding that Lee press

try bedding that Lee press

buy it dinner first...

I get strange website pages when I try to google that. Suggestions?

It was a blusterous day at the range today which was a relief from the hot, humid weather we’ve had over the past couple days. I know it's bad (also for my electricity bill) when I have to leave the AC on at night to sleep. I had moved the Vortex 6x to the AK and installed the refurbished Barska 16x on the 300BLK. It took me 50 rounds of 300BLK to zero the scope but used the brass that I converted and needed to be form fired anyways. The chrono data is attached below. The MN and AK were at 50 yards and 300BLK at 100 yards.

MN: Great results with the Varget 37 to 39 gn and Hornady 174 gn RN. The bullet has been okay in the past but not like this. The group in the blue circle is the 38 gn with a few neighbors thrown in. I thought it started out bad until I adjusted the reddot over and started grouping better as I climb the ladder. For some reason, I couldn’t hit the 8” gong. Perhaps they fall apart at 100 yards. The single shot to the right is one of the boolit rounds. 



Had relatively great results with the cast boolits using 10 to 14 gn 700x and both Beartooth 170 gn LMN .312” and Missouri 167 gn .3115”. For Beartooth, I was able to hit paper with all five loads and 5” groups. For Missouri, the 11 and 12 gn hit paper which is a first for this bullet. Doesn’t seem like there’s much keyholing except for the top two but that could be from the paper edge. To keep the powder next to the primer, I inserted a cotton patch in each case. Seems to work.
Update: I'm having a difficult time cleaning out the residue at the front of the barrel. There was also some left over cotton in some of the cases.



AK: Strange results with the accuracy and velocities. I can empirically say that my VEPR does not like CFEBLK powder. I didn’t have much luck with it last time either. I was getting 3” groups with the CFEBLK 27 to 29 gn and Hornady 123 gn Vmax. The velocities were sporadic and not close to Hodgdon’s published data.



Slightly better results with A1680 20 to 22 gn and Hornady Vmax. I based the load data on Hornady but doesn’t seem to match the Accurate load data. The 20.5 gn shot to the upper left. When I adjusted the scope for the 21.0 gn, I started getting decent results. The velocities didn’t calm down until the 22.0 gn so perhaps need to go with higher charges like the Accurate data says.



300BLK: I didn’t have time to shoot the load set so just fired the plinking rounds. The velocities were higher than what I expected from the published data. For some reason, I decided to leave the mags at home. Fortunately, a friendly gentleman let me borrow one of his mags. Mahalo nui.

It was a sweat dripping into my eyes kinda day at the range. There was a light breeze coming off the ocean with a peculiar algae bloom hanging out not too far off shore. It would be a perfect day for the chrono but someone accidentally left it on. Crap. Those 9v batteries are $5 each these days. Since replacing the trigger spring back to stock, I've had no double fire issues. Between the AR, 300BLK, and Mosin Nagant, I smacked the hell out of the metal targets today. I have a new stand that I found on Ebay so should be rolling that out soon. I started using sleeve guards to stop the splinters I was getting from the tables. Perhaps we can shellac the tables some day.

AR-15: Mostly great results with the TAC 22.2 to 23.0 gn and Nosler 62 gn Varmageddon. I made 5 sets of 20 rounds each at 100 yards. What's interesting about these is that the 2.180" OAL is shorter than the normal 2.260". I was gonna shoot the 300BLK on the same target but the gun was smoking (figuratively), so I decided to shoot half and half. Each group was 5 shots each load then repeat. My only explanation for the 3 flyers I had for 22.6A is that I had a temporary lack of sanity because I don't remember having issues with those.



Except for the flyers, the data mostly matched. As it just so happened, the round ended after group A and I ran a patch through after the break. Overall, I'd have to say that 22.7 gn grouped best.   



300BLK: Also mostly great results with the LilGun 9 to 11 gn and Nosler 190 gn. I made 5 sets of 10 rounds each at 100 yards. The difficulty with this is that for each 0.5 gn increment, the elevation increased by 1 inch so I was constantly adjusting the scope. I got some great groups once I dialed in each set with the 10 gn grouping best. It woulda been nice to have the chrono and compare the velocities. I also shot 41 of the converted brass that I made and loaded with CFEBLK 18.8 gn. These shot really high so I aimed below the metal targets. There were a few that didn't load into battery but shot after single loading. Nothing too accurate, but the metal targets felt the sting.



MN: I didn't have a load set today but instead made several rounds out of the bottom of the Varget bottle at 38 gn each and using the .311" Speer 180 gn. Coincidentally, I had just enough powder in the bottle to fill the remaining cases I had available. Generally, the .311 are not as accurate in my .312 barrel. The reason why I shot these is because I was having difficulty cleaning the cotton residue out of the end of the barrel after shooting the boolit rounds last time. It could be lead fouling but it looks like carbon debris to me. I used everything I could think of at the time: Ballistol, CLP, hot water, Gun Scrubber, squeegee. I got most of it out but not all. I'll find out if the rounds were successful in cleaning the rest out. When I was living in Vegas, I had great success with cleaning the corrosive ammo with Windex and WD40 but stopped using it after moving to Hawaii. I have Dacron in my garage so will try that next time.

My son looking at my results: "Couldn't you do the same thing with a hole puncher?"
Me: "Not from 100 yards..."

It was another sweltering day at the range today with a lite breeze. I grabbed the last table which happened to be next to Norman and Willy. I swear that the island moves with every round he fires. The 50 cal pistol didn’t affect the chrono, but the rifle produced an Error which in the end, didn’t interfere with the data. The main problem I had with the chrono was that I couldn’t shoot at my new metal target stand without shooting out the chrono shades. From the table I was at, I couldn’t move it back and align with the 50 yard target, and I couldn’t move it forward without risking the muzzle blast interfering with the sensors. The tables on the left side are more conducive to setting up a chrono stand.



AR-15: I upgraded to the OnTarget TDS software and printed the targets. I really hate using the cardboard and prefer to staple the target directly to the frame post. It turns out to be a lot of work to collect and analyze the data so probably won’t be using this often. It is interesting to use when a solid load is determined.



The chrono worked mostly well. I first started with TAC to warm up. The grouping was decent and the FPS was close, but the SD was terrible. I next shot the Nosler 77gn with 22.0 to 24.0 gn Varget at 50 yards. The first number is for the top set and the second for the bottom set. For the first set, the MOA was okay and the FPS was great. For the second set, the MOA was great and the FPS terrible which has me puzzled. I ran a patch through between sets. Otherwise, not much changed. I then shot the 55gn with the max Varget 26.4gn, and these had great accuracy and great FPS so doesn't appear to be a problem with the chrono. Note: double the displayed MOA measurement to get the average MOA.



300BLK: I started out with several warm up shots. I bought a box of 500 of the 123gn .312” Xtreme bullets at 10 cents each plus free shipping. I resized them to .308 and loaded them with LilGun. The accuracy and velocities were both crap. Hopefully, they'll work better in the AK. Next I shot the 147gn bulk bullets with W296, and they had great accuracy and decent velocities (see above). I then shot over 50 of the 190gn with LilGun 10.0gn at 50 yards. The accuracy was good with great velocities. Overall, I like the target I used with the AR-15 better. There’s several different styles available, so it’s fun to experiment. The load is the same for both sets below and the MOA was relatively the same.



I bought new metal target hangars off Ebay as an alternative to the chain. It didn’t work well for both calibers but was fun when the plate spun around.

since you're shooting at 50 your MOA is doubled

since you're shooting at 50 your MOA is doubled

Actually, the mean radius needs to be doubled but the software already doubles the MOA at 50 yards. However, this is based on the radius and not the mean diameter so you're right, it still needs to be doubled. I've complained about this to the software creator before but he's focused on the mean radius. Jeffrey Block is a nice guy. He refunded me the $12 I paid for the Precision Calculator after I bought the TDS for $35.

I'm still trying to figure out what happened with the second set of .223. On 9/3 above, both sets with the 62gn bullet mostly matched but not this time with the 77gn. In the attached, you can see how the first set progressed upward. There was no progression with the second set and the velocities were crap, but the groupings were better.

do you usually load your charge weights for 223 in 0.5 grain increments?  that equates to an incremental increase of over 2%.

given the low charge weights of 223, i'm almost certain that you're missing nodes in your 0.5 grain jumps.