I guess different books have different specs.

In my experience, Hornady data is very much on the conservative side. I agree with Inspector in giving H335 a try. That's all i use for 55gr.

In my experience, Hornady data is very much on the conservative side. I agree with Inspector in giving H335 a try. That's all i use for 55gr.

Or TAC... They have lots at HGS.

I agree with Inspector and oldfart.  Your load is under pressure. The powder burning is pushing the primer out of the pocket but not enough to push the case back against the boldface, pressing the primer back into the pocket, obturate the case and seal the chamber.  I bet the chamber area was real dirty too?  I see this in real low power revolver loads,  the primer can even jam up the revolver and lock it up.

I didn't catch if this was out of a semiauto?  Did it cycle the action? Was the action anemic?

I agree with Inspector and oldfart.  Your load is under pressure. The powder burning is pushing the primer out of the pocket but not enough to push the case back against the boldface, pressing the primer back into the pocket, obturate the case and seal the chamber.  I bet the chamber area was real dirty too?  I see this in real low power revolver loads,  the primer can even jam up the revolver and lock it up.

I didn't catch if this was out of a semiauto?  Did it cycle the action? Was the action anemic?

...
Now I remember!
This was happening when I was playing with rubber bullets in a revolver.
You have to drill out the flash hole so there is less back pressure.
Don't do that in your rifle.

...
Now I remember!
This was happening when I was playing with rubber bullets in a revolver.
You have to drill out the flash hole so there is less back pressure.
Don't do that in your rifle.

Yep same here. But with wax boolits.   Drill out the flash hole and pop in a primer. Shoot pop cans and cardboard boxes with wax..  (all with safety in mind. Eyes, ears, no live ammo anywhere near)

Good fun

Yep same here. But with wax boolits.   Shoot pop cans and cardboard boxes with wax..  (all with safety in mind. Eyes, ears, no live ammo anywhere near)

Good fun

Soda cans, cardboard boxes...That sounds like a lot of fun! I want to try shooting wax boolits too.

I agree with Inspector and oldfart.  Your load is under pressure. The powder burning is pushing the primer out of the pocket but not enough to push the case back against the boldface, pressing the primer back into the pocket, obturate the case and seal the chamber.  I bet the chamber area was real dirty too?  I see this in real low power revolver loads,  the primer can even jam up the revolver and lock it up.

I didn't catch if this was out of a semiauto?  Did it cycle the action? Was the action anemic?

I just tested another batch with higher load than the last time and problem solved. I always clean my rifle after range even if i only fired a few rounds.

Fellas another problem i'm having with my .308 reloads. I have Lee full sizer and RCBS small base sizer. I also have this Lyman Case Length Headspace Gauge 308 Winchester and this Hornady Cartridge Gauge 308 Winchester. So at first I resized my LC brass and some brass fired from my rifle with the lee. I checked them with the hornady gauge and the won't go all the way in even if I use the small base sizer. But when i check the brass with the Lyman, they go in with no problem. Any ideas why? I'm getting frustrated since before i had a round stuck in my chamber. Thank you in advance for the help..

All I know is to use the full size die for the initial sizing then with bolt rifle, neck size. That's what I'm doing with my MN 91/30. I believe with the AR, use the small base if having problems feeding. Sorry, I probably got that backwards.

Mitch at the range was just telling me the .308 LC brass needs to be loaded lighter than other brass. I didn't catch why with my earmuffs on.

Fellas another problem i'm having with my .308 reloads. I have Lee full sizer and RCBS small base sizer. I also have this Lyman Case Length Headspace Gauge 308 Winchester and this Hornady Cartridge Gauge 308 Winchester. So at first I resized my LC brass and some brass fired from my rifle with the lee. I checked them with the hornady gauge and the won't go all the way in even if I use the small base sizer. But when i check the brass with the Lyman, they go in with no problem. Any ideas why? I'm getting frustrated since before i had a round stuck in my chamber. Thank you in advance for the help..

I almost bought a Hornady Gauge until I read the following reviews on Amazon:

https://www.amazon.com/Hornady-Cartridge-Gauge-ter-Win/dp/B06W2NTBP5/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1500698695&sr=8-2&keywords=Hornady+case+gauge+308#customerReviews

Obviously, you can't always believe reviews written on the Internet but it is eerily similar to what you wrote.

I buy only Wilson gauges which also makes them for Lyman last time I checked.

All I know is to use the full size die for the initial sizing then with bolt rifle, neck size.

Not necesarily. After full length sizing than fire forming with a bolt gun, if you only neck size you will eventually have to bump the shoulder back. If you don't, the case will grow to the point the bolt won't be able to close. The saying "If you aren't measuring, you're guessing" applies.

Not necesarily. After full length sizing than fire forming with a bolt gun, if you only neck size you will eventually have to bump the shoulder back. If you don't, the case will grow to the point the bolt won't be able to close. The saying "If you aren't measuring, you're guessing" applies.

So full size every fifth firing or so with a bolt rifle?

You'll get inconsistent results by neck sizing only and then having to full size the case.  You'd want consistency overall.  I have posted how to measure shoulder bump with normal tools. You'd want to full size and bump the shoulder .002-.003" to minimize sizing and optimum fit in a bolt gun. 

LC brass probably needs less powder because those cases are thicker, thereby reducing internal volume, thus increasing pressure. You be working up to loads in that particular brass, check for pressure signs.

I guess i will try a different gauge to see if the problem is with the hornady gauge. I also have new never fired brass and they all go in fine and no problem. Also im reloading for semi.

I guess i will try a different gauge to see if the problem is with the hornady gauge. I also have new never fired brass and they all go in fine and no problem. Also im reloading for semi.

For semi auto bump the shoulder back .003"-.004".  Is the cases that don't fit because they are too fat or too long?

Check out this video. 
https://2ahawaii.com/index.php?topic=28070.0

Also measure the base of the cases that don't fit the gauge, and compare it to the correct specs for that chamber. 

To bump the shoulder, you have to use a bushing set, right?

https://www.amazon.com/Redding-Competition-Bushing-3-Die-Winchester/dp/B000TU48GS/ref=pd_sbs_200_1?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B000TU48GS&pd_rd_r=WGNJYRC3PGJBWX9TAAVP&pd_rd_w=XCdj1&pd_rd_wg=1XVyW&psc=1&refRID=WGNJYRC3PGJBWX9TAAVP

Check out this video. 
https://2ahawaii.com/index.php?topic=28070.0

Also measure the base of the cases that don't fit the gauge, and compare it to the correct specs for that chamber.

i did and the base is within the cartridge specs. Has anyone tried using 40 s&w brass to measure the headspace before for 308?

So full size every fifth firing or so with a bolt rifle?

Many high level shooters have different opinions and theories as to what produces consistency. Follow what Heavies posted and you will be fine. IMO to bump shoulders every 3-4 reloads and neck size every load is not the best. I bump shoulders .002" every time.