Hey guys, I'm new to the firearms scene and just purchased a handgun and will be getting a AR15 in the near future.  I was wondering what supplies, solvents, etc. you guys recommend.  I've read the "General Discussion / Re: Handgun cleaning" thread but that was a year or so ago, and was wondering if anything new has come out since, and also want suggestions for long gun.  Thanks in advance.

Break-Free CLP, Hoppes #9, and lots of patches.  A bronze brush and bronze jag each in whatever calibers you end up buying.  A single-piece rifle-length cleaning rod for your Ar and subsequent longarms, and a short rod for the pistol. 

That's helpful, thanks for that, Tom.   

Not to hi-jack this thread, but anyone wanna share what you wipe the outer metal parts down with? 

My uncle likes to use a horsehair brush and some sort of solvent, I have to check what the stuff was. 

Do you guys like to use different stuff for stainless and blued parts?

Break-Free CLP, Hoppes #9, and lots of patches.  A bronze brush and bronze jag each in whatever calibers you end up buying.  A single-piece rifle-length cleaning rod for your Ar and subsequent longarms, and a short rod for the pistol.

I'd add a toothbrush and some bore snakes in the appropriate calibers.

That's helpful, thanks for that, Tom.   

Not to hi-jack this thread, but anyone wanna share what you wipe the outer metal parts down with? 

My uncle likes to use a horsehair brush and some sort of solvent, I have to check what the stuff was. 

Do you guys like to use different stuff for stainless and blued parts?

I use CLP on a cleaning patch to wipe down metal parts.  I've started to use Birchwood Casey's "Barricade" on metal parts that I don't normally wipe down (under pistol grips, barrels & actions of rifles covered by stocks, guns going into semi-long term storage).  Barricade was recommended to me by a local gunsmith.  So far, results have been good.  Stainless guns get wiped with a clean cloth, but I don't oil the surface.

Break-Free CLP, Hoppes #9, and lots of patches.  A bronze brush and bronze jag each in whatever calibers you end up buying.  A single-piece rifle-length cleaning rod for your Ar and subsequent longarms, and a short rod for the pistol.

I second this but would like to add a couple of things. First on the single piece rifle length cleaning rod I have a carbon fiber type and I think it is one of the best things I have purchased in the last couple of years. I've had aluminum and brass rods but the carbon fiber is superior. Also, I used to use only gun scrubber or Hoppe's spray gun cleaner but found it is quite expensive if you shoot and clean a lot. After going back to Hoppe's #9 I found that even after running a clean dry patch after cleaning with Hoppe's #9 I still run one patch with the spray cleaner and it seems to find a small amount of Hoppe's #9 residue. So now my routine includes this last step. Plus I use Hoppe's #9 Copper Solvent as well when I either put a lot of rounds in one sitting or I have a new gun/barrel I am breaking in.

I just blast everything with Ballistol...

M-pro 7

M-pro 7

I got complaints from the wife with good ole' CLP because of the smell.  I switched to M-Pro 7 and she's hasn't uttered a word about my cleaning since.

Thanks for your comments everyone, keep them coming.  Looking to pick up some supplies this week.

I got complaints from the wife with good ole' CLP because of the smell.  I switched to M-Pro 7 and she's hasn't uttered are word about my cleaning since.

Hey Major, what does the CLP smell like?

Hey Major, what does the CLP smell like?

Like Strawberry Cheesecake.  Just kidding, but it is your right of passage (as a firearms owner) to discover on your own.

I just blast everything with Ballistol...

Same here. In and out.

For my rifles I use BoreTech Eliminator first, this gets all the copper out.  I run 3 wet patches scrub with a nylon brush then 2 or three wet patches to get the bulk out.  In my good barrels there is very little copper but if there is some blue on the patch I let it soak for 30 min to a couple hours then repeat until there is no blue.  Then I push dry patches to get all that stuff out, and I then I use BoreTech Carbon Cutter.  Using the same method as previous to get all the carbon out.  Lastly, after the bore is dried out with patches I protect it with a layer of CLP penetrating oil.  Not sopping wet just a very light light coat.

This may seem like a lot of work, but in reality it is more of a function letting the solvents do the major work.  I am in no particular rush to get the rifles locked back up in the safe.

Protect the throat with a bore guide that fits your action properly, and protect the crown by using a quality cleaning rod and being careful as the utensils leave the muzzle.

Hey Major, what does the CLP smell like?

Ever wonder what Hoppes #9 smells like? Do you like the way it smells?

http://www.hoppes.com/products/ca_air_freshener.html

Enjoy!

Same here. In and out.

I've been looking everywhere locally for ballistol, where do you guys get yours? Online?

Major - lol. 
Gonna look into ballistol.
Heavies - Thanks for sharing your technique. 
Inspector - Sweet!  Maybe we should hang it on our rear view mirrors and ppl who know, knows not to mess with our cars.  lol.

I've been looking everywhere locally for ballistol, where do you guys get yours? Online?

got the aerosol version from Dan at KGS. 

Break-Free is old and outdated.

M-Pro7 is great for basic cleaning. I used non chlorinated brake cleaner for the really tough jobs.

Weapon Shield is great for lubricating, but Mobil1 Synthetic Motor Oil is cheap and works great too.

M-Pro 7 solvent, M-Pro 7 oil, appropriate sized boresnake, toothbrush, and a rag.