I have the Ken Onion worksharp in the garage where I do batches sometimes, or if something is really messed up and in need of reprofiling. In the kitchen I have the Spyderco triangle which is great for a quick touch up. Very fast and convenient with consistently good results. At lest the vegetables aren't complaining.

The Worksharp is very dangerous not from a safety aspect but it's very easy to take off too much. The tool grinder attachment is also wonderful for mower/brush cutter blades and can get into tight places that angle grinders won't go. Don't even have to take them off. It's saved me on some metal fab projects for the same reason.

I have the Ken Onion worksharp in the garage where I do batches sometimes, or if something is really messed up and in need of reprofiling. In the kitchen I have the Spyderco triangle which is great for a quick touch up. Very fast and convenient with consistently good results. At lest the vegetables aren't complaining.

The Worksharp is very dangerous not from a safety aspect but it's very easy to take off too much. The tool grinder attachment is also wonderful for mower/brush cutter blades and can get into tight places that angle grinders won't go. Don't even have to take them off. It's saved me on some metal fab projects for the same reason.

I can definitely see that.  It does seem like the Worksharp is very effective and they have a range of products for various budgets.  I think I'd give the Ken Onion version a try if I had a dedicated "dirty" workshop space.

Ordered the Wicked Edge system over the weekend.  Notification said it already shipped and looks like it will be here end of the week. 

Got the Wicked Edge (WE-130 with some finer stones and strop) in yesterday. Tested on a Benchmade with D2 steel and I’m liking it. D2 is supposed to be one of the hardest steels to get a good edge. I had sharpened this knife with the Spyderco Sharpmaker before and was able to get a pretty good edge, good enough for EDC stuff. But wasn’t able to get a “shave worthy” edge. It took me a little bit to get used to keeping the stones flat on the blade and I think to verify the burr, but once I did, I was able to get a really nice edge. While not “hair whittling or popping” sharp, definitely “shave worthy” and as good or better than many knives I’ve had out of the box. It’s supposed to take 5-10 knives to break in the stones, so I’m expecting results to improve as the stones break in and my technique improves.

I noticed that even after the 200 grit that the edge was very sharp but could very much see the striations on the edge. Think I need to spend more time smoothing than out with the 400+ stones to get a really fine edge. Like the WE videos mentioned, I think 600 grit is definitely good enough for EDC, but I do want to be able to get a finer edge.

With folders, I have trouble maintaining consistency across the curved portion of the blade. I can get kitchen knives super sharp with stones, but believe that’s because the blades are usually flat or much less curvature. With the WE, I can get a nice and uniform sharpened band among the full length of the blade.

Now that I know I can get a really good edge on the D2, I’m gonna start on my beater knives with steels that are known for being easy to sharpe, like 8Cr13MoV. 

 

My wife is sharpening knifes right now, She teach's a cooking class at the local park and has like 12 knifes to do.

My wife is sharpening knifes right now, She teach's a cooking class at the local park and has like 12 knifes to do.

Awesome!

The Edge Pro was very high on my interest list.

Bring some of those knives over. I could use the practice! 

She needs it to, that thing cost me a small fortune

Awesome!

The Edge Pro was very high on my interest list.

Bring some of those knives over. I could use the practice! 

What is the table top model you mention? I only see what looks like a larger hand held model.

I’m pretty sure I’m gonna get the wicked edge. Still thinking about the edge pro though.

Accu Sharp 004 SturdyMount Knife Sharpener https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0019DVLN2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_GcptCbHR4AYS0

Accu Sharp 004 SturdyMount Knife Sharpener https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0019DVLN2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_GcptCbHR4AYS0

Cool. I think that’s the one I was thinking. If I didn’t get the WE, I was gonna get the Minosharp pull through sharpener for my Global kitchen knives.

Worked on a Kershaw Cryo 8Cr13MoV and a ZT 0562 204p. The Kershaw is supposed to be 8/10 on ease of sharpening. I was able to get it pretty sharp. Enough to shave hairs on my arm, but not quite at sharp as I thought I could be able to not as sharp as a couple of ZT knives I have in S35VN out of the box. Was little disappointed, but think 1) that blade is a beater and may need to be grounds down a little more and 2) I may need to take my time as I went a little fast on this one. It seemed like sections of the blade went through the test paper really well, but would occasionally hit a snag.

The 204p of the ZT is supposed to be a 2/10 on ease of sharpening. This blade was only lightly used, but enough to not be as sharp as the just out of box ZTs that I have. Was able to find the grind angle quickly (23) and just worked with 400 and higher. Was able to get the knife sharper and able to shave arm hairs, but not quite as sharp as the new ZTs that I have.  I was happy that I could get them to what would be sharp enough for EDC, especially with one of the new super steels that are supposed to be really hard to sharpen. I hope that I can improve with more practice.

Got the Wicked Edge (WE-130 with some finer stones and strop) in yesterday. Tested on a Benchmade with D2 steel and I’m liking it. D2 is supposed to be one of the hardest steels to get a good edge. I had sharpened this knife with the Spyderco Sharpmaker before and was able to get a pretty good edge, good enough for EDC stuff. But wasn’t able to get a “shave worthy” edge. It took me a little bit to get used to keeping the stones flat on the blade and I think to verify the burr, but once I did, I was able to get a really nice edge. While not “hair whittling or popping” sharp, definitely “shave worthy” and as good or better than many knives I’ve had out of the box. It’s supposed to take 5-10 knives to break in the stones, so I’m expecting results to improve as the stones break in and my technique improves.

I noticed that even after the 200 grit that the edge was very sharp but could very much see the striations on the edge. Think I need to spend more time smoothing than out with the 400+ stones to get a really fine edge. Like the WE videos mentioned, I think 600 grit is definitely good enough for EDC, but I do want to be able to get a finer edge.

With folders, I have trouble maintaining consistency across the curved portion of the blade. I can get kitchen knives super sharp with stones, but believe that’s because the blades are usually flat or much less curvature. With the WE, I can get a nice and uniform sharpened band among the full length of the blade.

Now that I know I can get a really good edge on the D2, I’m gonna start on my beater knives with steels that are known for being easy to sharpe, like 8Cr13MoV.

Congratulations on getting that wicked edge system! 
Looks like a great system

I've been looking at more vids on sharpening and I think I need to work on my technique more.
I'll keep practicing.   

I did more with the D2
spent more time and more reps with the fine diamond stone, then with the Arizona stone, and a little with the leather strop
D2 steel is sharper, but still not quite shaving sharp.  but it is better than what I was doing previously.  paper slicing is very easy, very little effort. edge now looks polished.
i'm going to do more with the Arizona stone and then strop a little after and see if it gets better   

Congratulations on getting that wicked edge system! 
Looks like a great system

I've been looking at more vids on sharpening and I think I need to work on my technique more.
I'll keep practicing.   

I did more with the D2
spent more time and more reps with the fine diamond stone, then with the Arizona stone, and a little with the leather strop
D2 steel is sharper, but still not quite shaving sharp.  but it is better than what I was doing previously.  paper slicing is very easy, very little effort. edge now looks polished.
i'm going to do more with the Arizona stone and then strop a little after and see if it gets better   

I've sharpened three knives, but actually did two of those knives a second time after getting a few more tips on use.  Definitely need more time with the system.  I've been reading that it takes a while for the new stones to break in, which is about 8-10 knives.  Many have reported things get markedly better after that, including a buddy that has it (but he lives on the mainland).  I still am waiting for the test knives in M390, VG-10, and S30V to come in.  But once they do, I'll be testing both their cutting and edge retention and then sharpening. 

I was able to get the Benchmade D2 sharp enough to shave arm hairs, but it didn't do very well on the paper slicing.  I have ZTs that I can slice very thin shards of paper, so I know it can be done.  I can get the Benchmade D2 to slice if I concentrate on a certain technique, but not always (like the ZTs).  I was reading online that many feel the paper slicing is a parlor trick and some that folks "cheat" in that they know about paper grain.  I've noticed that certain paper does have grain, but the sharp knives that I have are able to slice through no problem.  So dunno about that.  Then there are those "next level" sharpeners who strive for being able to push cut paper with their knives. 

I also need more work with stropping.  I think I end up dulling the edge when I do because I put too much pressure.  I tried the strops in the WE once and I did notice a higher level of polish on the bevel, but still wasn't as sharp as I would like.  I was reading that folks have varying techniques that they find works for them.  Angles and pressures. 

Overall, I can definitely get the knives to a very sharp edge for EDC, but I do want to be able to get them to a higher level of sharpness.  Not really for practical reasons, but more for the satisfaction that I am able.  I can get my kitchen knives pretty damn sharp, but I think I have an easier time because those blades are generally pretty flat and I have good technique with those on stones.  Not as much with the curved blades of folding knives. 

It's a learning process, but one that I am enjoying.   

sorry, I meant Arkansas stone.  not Arizona.

I must've had Arizona on the brain.  geography was never my strong subject     

sorry, I meant Arkansas stone.  not Arizona.

I must've had Arizona on the brain.  geography was never my strong subject     

I was wondering about that. I assumed you had ins on the latest and greatest sharpening stuff.

I used to have Arkansas stones, but cheaper ones. I was thinking about trying a set to complement my Japanese whetstones. But maybe in the future.

I used my Lansky 4 rod diamond/ ceramic turnbox knife sharpener on my d2 and s35vn steels. They were both paper cutting sharp but not shaving sharp.
S35vn only needed 10 passes on the diamond and 5 passes in the ceramic and it can shave. Must've been pretty sharp already
D2 I tried a few times with the guided diamond sharpener and with my guided stone sharpener and just couldn't get it shaving sharp
Now with the Lansky rod sharpener I did 20 passes on the diamond rod and 10 passes on the ceramic rod and now the d2 can shave!
I'm very satisfied with that rod system. It's like the spyderco one
At least I found a system or combination of systems that works
I did not strop at the end. I'm thinking my stropping somehow is dulling the blade, maybe I'm not doing it right
Actually I'm satisfied without stropping as long as it can shave, I'm happy with that

Are you using polishing compound with the leather? Leather alone won't always do the job.

I used my Lansky 4 rod diamond/ ceramic turnbox knife sharpener on my d2 and s35vn steels. They were both paper cutting sharp but not shaving sharp.
S35vn only needed 10 passes on the diamond and 5 passes in the ceramic and it can shave. Must've been pretty sharp already
D2 I tried a few times with the guided diamond sharpener and with my guided stone sharpener and just couldn't get it shaving sharp
Now with the Lansky rod sharpener I did 20 passes on the diamond rod and 10 passes on the ceramic rod and now the d2 can shave!
I'm very satisfied with that rod system. It's like the spyderco one
At least I found a system or combination of systems that works
I did not strop at the end. I'm thinking my stropping somehow is dulling the blade, maybe I'm not doing it right
Actually I'm satisfied without stropping as long as it can shave, I'm happy with that

I’ve been playing around more with stropping. I’ve been trying various techniques of pressure and angle. With softer leather or materials, you can depress the material and it can dull the edge. Some try balsa and other materials that give less.

I have the strops for both the WE and freehand. The WE strops use compounds of varying polishing particle size. The leather freehand strop I’ve been using cane with a polishing compound that is like a block of soap that you use to prime the surface.

I've been using this strop which is on a piece of wood with tormek honing compound that was recommended to me to use with leather strop from a guy at woodcraft store in kalihi.
Maybe I need a different compound
Thanks for the video too