Anyone loading 6.5 Creedmoor?  Looking for some advice and recipes if able to share.  Obviously will not hold anyone liable for shared info, just looking for some info. since factory ammo is expensive/scarce.

My gun stats:  Gas gun/semi, 22in Aero Precision, rifle length gas system, fixed Luth AR rifle stock, 5oz rifle buffer (have a 10oz buffer but yet untested), Aero Prec HPI BCG, SWFA FFP scope.     

Mahalo,

Kimo

My brother used to shoot 6.5 creed but now shoots 6.5 x 47 lapua out of his curtis vector build. His 6.5 creed was a factory savage 110 stealth. For his gun he was in like the 41-42.5 grains with H4350 and 143/140 bullet. Velocity around 2700ish with low SD/ES. He also used about 43ish grains of R16 and got speeds near 2800ish with similar weight bullets. H4350, if you can find it, will make load development about as easy as it gets in regards to SD/ES in almost any 6.5mm cartridge.

One thing to consider is that you are running this in a gas gun vs a bolt gun. Would definitely recommend an adjustable gas block for your rifle and also to not expect the same speeds / same brass life as a bolt gun, due to pressure variances and moving parts. And always remember your pressure signs before moving up and testing charge weights. Goodluck with load development, i would recommend picking your top 3 powder choices and heading to look at what the stores have, unfortunately for us its more about what is available rather than what we want. For example, its been easier for my bro and I to use IMR 4350 and work up loads instead of H4350 simply due to availability.

Goodluck and stay safe, let us know your results.

Been a couple years since I had shot 6.5 CM through my bolt action Tikka. Never really got to develop a load but started with Starline small primer brass, CCI small rifle primers and Hornady 140 gr. ELD match bullets. Used H4350 powder, 39 grains, 38 grains, 37.5 grains...at 100 yards. Never shot factory ammo... Where's rklapp?

Great info, big mahalos!  I can definitely attest to the beat-up brass issue, extraction marks galore on my factory brass and will assume the same for my reloads.  A heavier buffer may slow the action but would it provide longer brass life?  Just wondering?  I bought some Starline LRP brass but plan to get SRP brass since I have an abundant supply of SRPs.

Also having trouble getting H4350 powder (half a bottle left) for my 140gr pills but saw some load data using IMR4064, IMR4831 and Varget.  Not really trying for anything over 2300-2400 FPS or 1200 yards but definitely looking for 500-600 yd accuracy and function.

Again, appreciate the info, please keep it coming my braddahs.  I'll update you guys on my load testing.

Now it's off to my loading bench for a mad scientist reloading session...        

Kimo

Also agree on the adjustable gas block.  A friend shoots a 6.5 ar10 and uses one.  I think he shuts it off completely when working up loads.

Ive been too broke (too lazy) to actually start reloading but I’ve read good things about:

Lapua brass - expensive but very consistent, lasts a long time.  Read about starline rifle brass.  Starline makes good pistol brass but I read the rifle brass was not that good...yet
(May have been a lower priced starline brass, not the one your using)

Redding seating dies - produces very concentric reloads

Foster shoulder bump sizing die - I believe it neck sizes and shoulder bumps.  This may not apply to a gas gun.  I think my friend always full length resizes for his 6.5 ar10.  He also anneals the brass every time he uses it.  He also crimps in cause he has to ever run it semi auto.

Hornady  concentricity tool - Mrgaf likes his
https://lockedloaded.com/product/jrtxb382

Redding instant indicator with gauge - mounts on your press and lets you quickly check reloads.  YouTube it.  It can check a lot of things.
https://www.brownells.com/reloading/measuring-tools/case-gauges-headspace-tools/6-5mm-creedmoor-instant-indicator-prod95375.aspx

Sinclair or Hornady bullet seating depth gauge - for Hornady you can send them a fire formed case and they will tap it so it can be used with their system.  There are also DYI methods on YouTube. Basically, all are to help the bullet being a consistent distance from the lands (CBTO) vs having a consistent OAL
 
Redding turret press

Foster coax press (“floating die” for better concentricity) - for regular presses some people just put an o ring under their dies to help it “float “.  Saw it on YouTube - 6.5 guys

Powder - if your hunting, I read something about some powder being less sensitive to heat.  Because of that the guy also didn’t use a shoulder stock shell holder.  I guess it is hot where he hunts and ammo/powder would change temperature a lot if exposed to the sun

Bullets - I forgot which ones.  But certain brands are a bit more consistent in weight, concentricity, etc

Good luck!! 

I just ordered a Tikka in 6.5 but I’m lazy so I’ll probably just buy ammo and the Hornady concentricity tool

Curse you Mrgaf...see what your 7mm-08 has done!

Been way too long my braddahs. Finally worked up loads settling on Hornady 140gr ELDs using 39.6gr of H4350 with .20 setback, Starline SRP brass and 2.805 OAL. Wow! Punching .5 MOA at 200m and 2 MOA at 500m. With a gas gun I'm super happy with results.  Had to go with a 10oz heavy buffer for functioning but recoil allows all day trigger time. I'm now worried about barrel life?  I have 600 down the pipe but hear 3k may be the limit. Anyone have experience?