Finally dialed in a load (I think) for my 30-30 using some varget. Got about a 1” grouping at 50 yds in my lever action 30-30. My question is how much bullet drop should I be seeing at 100 yards? I seem to be having about a 5” drop at 100 yards.

At first I thought that’s probably pretty normal for a 30-30 but I watched the Paul Harrell video on the 30-30 and his marlin showed no bullet drop at 100 yards. Maybe more powder for a flatter trajectory?

not more powder
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Just adjust your sights for 100 yds. It won't be very far off at 50.

How did you come to the conclusion of “no bullet drop at 100?”?  Did the video show similar POI say 50-100 yards?

My dad left me a nice 30-30, but I haven’t shot it yet. I would expect quite a bit of drop for such a heavy projectile.  Just haven’t done much research into it yet.

How did you come to the conclusion of “no bullet drop at 100?”?  Did the video show similar POI say 50-100 yards?

My dad left me a nice 30-30, but I haven’t shot it yet. I would expect quite a bit of drop for such a heavy projectile.  Just haven’t done much research into it yet.

Harrells video was of him shooting at 50 yards dead on, and 100 yards dead on. No discernible drop in bullet.

not more powder
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Just adjust your sights for 100 yds. It won't be very far off at 50.

Right on makes sense 

It’s hard for me to see the target bullseye at 100 yards it could just be myself that’s making the bullet drop.

Right on makes sense 

It’s hard for me to see the target bullseye at 100 yards it could just be myself that’s making the bullet drop.

Believe gravity is helping. . . 

 

Just kidding.  I know what ya meant. 

Believe gravity is helping. . . 

 

Just kidding.  I know what ya meant. 

 Haha!

If your grouping 5” low you either got a sight problem your causing the problem or your velocity is really low.

What's your load?  Maybe we can extrapolate some data and help you out. 

What's your load?  Maybe we can extrapolate some data and help you out.

160gr Hornady FTX
Federal brass
CCI primers
30.3 gr varget

If your grouping 5” low you either got a sight problem your causing the problem or your velocity is really low.

Definitely could be all those things haha. I’m just starting to get ok at shooting 50yds so it could def be me at 100 yds

Looking up load data seems like you are right in the middle of min and max. So took the liberty of estimating your muzzle velocity around 2150. 

Applied Ballistics online calculator.


At 100 yards, with a 50 yard zero, looks like you should have about a 7/8" drop
 

Looking up load data seems like you are right in the middle of min and max. So took the liberty of estimating your muzzle velocity around 2150. 

Applied Ballistics online calculator.


At 100 yards, with a 50 yard zero, looks like you should have about a 7/8" drop

Damn heavies that’s some awesome data thank you! I loaded about 10 more rounds and upped the powder to 31 gr of varget right before the range closed

 

Ge BC and SD
https://www.hornady.com/ammunition/rifle/30-30-win-160-gr-ftx-leverevolution#!/
Get powder/load velocity
http://www.hodgdonreloading.com/data/rifle
Factor in Barrel length ?)
Calkalate
http://www.jbmballistics.com/ballistics/calculators/calculators.shtml
or calkalate with TMI
http://www.shooterscalculator.com/ballistic-trajectory-chart.php?pl=3030&presets=&df=G1&bc=0.241&bw=160&vi=2400&zr=50&sh=1.5&sa=0&ws=0&wa=0&ssb=on&cr=150&ss=50&chartColumns=Range%7Eyd%3BElevation%7Ein%3BElevation%7EMOA%7EFBFFF5%3BElevation%7EMIL%3BWindage%7Ein%3BWindage%7EMOA%7EFBFFF5%3BWindage%7EMIL%3BTime%7Es%3BEnergy%7Eft.lbf%3BVel%5Bx%2By%5D%7Eft%2Fs&lbl=&submitst=+Create+Graph+

Hey Bryston, are you using a scope or iron sights?  Is your rifle a Marlin or Winchester (or other)?

With iron sights, especially the bead front and semi-buckhorn rear (as found on Winchesters), 50 yard practical accuracy can be pretty good.  At 100, if you are using the same size targets, the practical accuracy can drop off rather dramatically--groups can open up quite a bit, the big bead at 100 yards makes it tough to place shots accurately.

Mechanical accuracy is a different thing--if you've locked your rifle into a vise (for example) and got 1" groups at 50, you would stand a good chance of getting 2" groups at 100 because the human error is mostly removed.  Of course, no one shoots from a vise at KokoHead.

If you are using a scope, your groups at 100 ought to be smaller but you'll need to check everything on your rifle first--all screws tight (rifle and scope mounts), bore thoroughly cleaned, fouling shots fired, barrel warm or cold, sandbag rests firmly positioned, etc.

It can take a lot of practice to get good at shooting small groups at 100 yards, especially at KokoHead with the winds!  Once the range opens up you'll be able to get more practice in, then you can diagnose your rifle and loads more effectively.  Making changes in your load after just one or two outings can lead you to chasing your own tail, so to speak.

The 5" drop you experienced--were you getting 2-3 inch groups at 100 that were landing 5" low?  Or were your groups opening up to 4-6" at 100 and you were measuring the drop of the center of the group? 

Hey Bryston, are you using a scope or iron sights?  Is your rifle a Marlin or Winchester (or other)?

With iron sights, especially the bead front and semi-buckhorn rear (as found on Winchesters), 50 yard practical accuracy can be pretty good.  At 100, if you are using the same size targets, the practical accuracy can drop off rather dramatically--groups can open up quite a bit, the big bead at 100 yards makes it tough to place shots accurately.

Mechanical accuracy is a different thing--if you've locked your rifle into a vise (for example) and got 1" groups at 50, you would stand a good chance of getting 2" groups at 100 because the human error is mostly removed.  Of course, no one shoots from a vise at KokoHead.

If you are using a scope, your groups at 100 ought to be smaller but you'll need to check everything on your rifle first--all screws tight (rifle and scope mounts), bore thoroughly cleaned, fouling shots fired, barrel warm or cold, sandbag rests firmly positioned, etc.

It can take a lot of practice to get good at shooting small groups at 100 yards, especially at KokoHead with the winds!  Once the range opens up you'll be able to get more practice in, then you can diagnose your rifle and loads more effectively.  Making changes in your load after just one or two outings can lead you to chasing your own tail, so to speak.

The 5" drop you experienced--were you getting 2-3 inch groups at 100 that were landing 5" low?  Or were your groups opening up to 4-6" at 100 and you were measuring the drop of the center of the group?

I’m using iron sights on my marlin 336. It is very difficult to place shots at 100 yds. Basically I start at 50 and once I feel I’m getting good accuracy I put the same target out to 100. I let the barrel cool down before i start. I’m assuming it’s dropping because I try to aim higher than I am at 50 and it still seems to be dropping. It is very possible that My aim is just off. My groups are not that bad at 100 yds about the size of an Apple I’d say.

I would say my grouping was maximum 4” but definitely low, like off the paper target and grouping on the cardboard haha.

At 2100 fps it will drop like a rock Not a Long range target round. 25-75 yards range
dave

OK, it does sound like the rifle is shooting low but there could still be a lot of factors that affect how/where the gun is shooting.

Have you checked your rear sight?  Some of them have a ladder-type piece to make adjustments--those aren't very secure and oftentimes on a used gun they are missing.  Some have tiny screws that hold the blade in place, again, not always secure.

Point of aim with a bead is always problematic--I think most people sight their rifles in  with the center of the bead being the point of impact, since that is usually how the bead is used when hunting.   Unless your targets are huge, at 100 yards the bead will usually cover more than the whole target so there's that.

You are able to get a 2-3 inch group at 100, so that indicates that your point of aim is consistent;  if it's "off the paper" low at 100 it sounds like there's something wrong with your sights or your load may be underpowered.  Without a chronograph it would be really hard to know what kind of velocity you are getting.

Until the range opens up it's all conjecture and wild-ass guessing.  I would find some factory loads and shoot that first when the range opens up.  If it still shoots low, there's probably something wrong with the rifle or the sights.  If the factory loads shoot flatter than your loads by a wide margin then it's probably your loads.

My .02, which might not be worth .02

OK, it does sound like the rifle is shooting low but there could still be a lot of factors that affect how/where the gun is shooting.

Have you checked your rear sight?  Some of them have a ladder-type piece to make adjustments--those aren't very secure and oftentimes on a used gun they are missing.  Some have tiny screws that hold the blade in place, again, not always secure.

Point of aim with a bead is always problematic--I think most people sight their rifles in  with the center of the bead being the point of impact, since that is usually how the bead is used when hunting.   Unless your targets are huge, at 100 yards the bead will usually cover more than the whole target so there's that.

You are able to get a 2-3 inch group at 100, so that indicates that your point of aim is consistent;  if it's "off the paper" low at 100 it sounds like there's something wrong with your sights or your load may be underpowered.  Without a chronograph it would be really hard to know what kind of velocity you are getting.

Until the range opens up it's all conjecture and wild-ass guessing.  I would find some factory loads and shoot that first when the range opens up.  If it still shoots low, there's probably something wrong with the rifle or the sights.  If the factory loads shoot flatter than your loads by a wide margin then it's probably your loads.

My .02, which might not be worth .02

Right on JC mahalo 

I’ll just add that if your rifle has the standard “Buckhorn” type rear sight, part of your problem might be the fact that these style of rear sights SUCK! But that is only my opinion. I would suggest getting a rear peep type sight to replace the buckhorn style if your rifle has one. Most of the rifles these days has been drilled and tapped for the rear peep sights.